[ToddA1]

I though it was a cassette case. I just find a socket or something that has the correct measurement and use that.

-Todd

 

[tburie.]

Does anyone have any advice on a certain brand/type of transmission gear oil and engine oil for the break in period.

 

[ToddA1]

Just use whatever is GL4 rated for the trans. I use Syncromesh although the last change, I used Liquimoly GL4+ synthetic.

Last time I had an engine rebuilt I just used oil I’d normally use, then changed it a couple hundred miles later. There are going to be a bunch of opinions on break in. Figure out what works for you…

-Todd

 

[JAG71]

FWIW, I had purchased a rebuilt transmission last year and was told what fluid would go in it…or no warranty. I followed their instructions and all seems good. Feel free to read the fine print.

 

[Butcher]

GTA is pretty picky about what they do. As a business owner, I can understand but a proper spec oil will not ruin the transmission. I would not try and prove them wrong.

I use Syncomesh. Mostly because the transmission seems to shift better for me.

 

[ToddA1]

Based on what I see, OP’s trans looks used, meaning absolutely no warranty. Just use what VW’s spec is and you’ll be fine.

-Todd

 

[thegave]

For motor break-in an old-school technique is to use conventional for the first 100 miles or so and then replace with synthetic. Supposedly helps the rings bed better if the oil is not as slippery. At the other end of the spectrum is snake-in oil like CRO 10w40 Competition Break-In Oil (M5736) (performanceracingoils.com) or Royal Purple 06487: Break-In Oil 10W-30 6 Quarts - JEGS High Performance

 

[tburie.]

I'm having some trouble trying to get the transmission into 1st 2nd and reverse. This is how it looks in third.

I took the time to slot out the gear selector in the car, even more than it already is and still it is not even close to having the correct gap.

The rubber selector ball and cage are smaller for the four speed than the five speed. So I'm thinking I will buy a new lever cage thingy, so I can actually use the new rubber ball. The shift rod bushing is also pretty loose, so I guess I'll be getting one of those. I'm hoping that replacing these will make it all a bit more ridged, making it easier to get everything to line up nice.

 

[tburie.]

Looks like these selector levers are few and far between. If anyone has a selector lever for a 5 speed that they are willing to sell, let me know.

 

[JAG71]

You may have some of these already but seems you'll need a 5-speed selector lever, front selector rod, rear selector rod and rod. Looks like the 5-speed selector lever is longer, the selector rods a little different and the rod 10-3/8" long vs. 10-1/4" long.

For the gearshift lever, there are a few indicator holes that should line up with corresponding round holes in your housing. Bentley also encourages mounting bolts to be centered in elongated holes.

The below seems to illustrates neutral and helps to highlights the necessary clearance to engage 1st/2nd. My gut tells me you're trying to work a 5-speed with 4-speed lever and rods...so once you change them out, you'll be good to go.

 

[tburie.]

I started to try to figure out where the coolant hoses are supposed to go and realized that I am in need of some gaskets. I found the gasket for the side of the head.
VW MK1 Water Flange Gasket - Free Tech Help
But I am having some trouble finding the gasket for the flange that comes out of the front of the head. They look similar, does anyone know if they are the same?

 

[tburie.]

As it would turn out, the throttle cable is a tad different from the the 82 than the later. The valve cover hole is a bit to big for it.

Should I just order one for an 84 gti? Or is there a safe easy cheat. I figure I could get some washers on there, but that could be a little questionable.

 

[tburie.]

The coolant pipe has a hole in it... yay.

Is it a good idea to JB weld this or should I be replacing it?

 

[Butcher]

I do not see the fascination with JB weld. Except when I play with carbon fiber, glue and I do not get along well. Do it right or go home. Wait....you probably are home.

How about glue it up and order a good one. There are several different pipes. Make certain you get the right one.

 

[tburie.]

Finally tracked down all of the coolant leaks and seeps. A couple of weeks finding leaks ordering seals, fixing leaks, finding more leaks, ordering hoses...
I finally got my fist chance to crank this thing over for the first time (what a wonderful feeling) It didn't start or really even try to, so now I have something new to chew on. I recheck the timing and wasn't supper happy with it, so that's my next step. I will probably get a spark plug light to see if it is getting power, then see what the fuel is doing. Wish me luck the next few weeks working on this, I'm starting optimistic, but I'm sure I will be less excited and more disgruntled as I just want to get this thing running.

 

[ToddA1]

I’ve had that same pipe leak. Winter beater/spare car, so I didn’t want to put too much effort into it. Cleaned up the pipe with some sandpaper, shot it with brake clean then put a blob of QuikSteel on it. Lasted years and never failed on me. Sold the car, and never heard back.

-Todd

 

[tburie.]

I was planning on readjusting the timing, but after reevaluation it seems to look good. I didn't have any think to check spark with me, so I was messing around with some things. I noticed that I did not hear the usual fuel pump hum like before. I used a jumper wire like described in the Bentley and still no hum. I'll grab a multimeter tomorrow and see if we are getting any power back at the fuel pump or If I simply missed something when putting the new engine in. (I had noticed the other day when I cranked it over that it was not smelling like unburnt gas as I would have expected.)

 

[tburie.]

Jumped power to the fuel pump and it runs just fine. As it turns out it was simply a fuse (I'm not sure why it was blown, but we have bigger fish to fry right now). Unfortunately when I pulled out the relay the other day, one of the progs pulled out of the relay. I now have a new relay ordered. So far so good in the trying to get this thing started process.

 

[ToddA1]

I’d try to fix that relay, I ordered several KAE replacements and none of them primed the pump. Seems the feature was removed….. curious if your replacement will be the same.

-Todd