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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
BFI - Polyurethane and Delrin MK3 and Rado VR6 Motor Mounts





We offer a complete line of performance motor mounts for all Mk3 and Corrado SLC. Our line of Full Poly mounts is unlike any other poly options available. They are machined from extruded stock, not gravity cast. This results in both a more uniform product as well as a more durable one.

Be aware that the different motors will react differently to the stages. The ABA both weighs less and is positioned differently than the VR6. In general, the ABA will experience more vibration than the VR6 with the same mounts.

The hardware provided is grade 10.9 which is much stronger than the stock bolts, those of which are prone to breakage due to age and especially with harder mounts.

All mounts are available as kits or individual pieces. If ordering a single mount or piece, please specify front, rear, or upper to make sure you get the correct hardware.


BFI Stealth Series Motor Mount Complete Kit



These mounts are specifically engineered to fall in between new factory mounts and our popular .5 Mounts. Shore hardness is 50A - For comparison, the OEM mounts are around 40-45A in holey hardness. These are constructed from extruded stock polyurethane and are NOT made from rubber like the factory pieces.
This will ensure an extremely long product life that will not break down like rubber, while still giving added performance with factory-like comfort preserved. Included in the complete kit is a G60 solid rubber transmission mount. Stealth Mounts are Ideal for those that want improved upgrade mounts for performance without sacrificing interior vibration levels on both VR6 and 4-cylinder models.
Complete kit w/trans (5pcs w/hardware)


BFI Stage .5 Polyurethane Motor Mount Complete Kit



These are poly, 60A in shore hardness. They are softer than both our Stage I poly(85A) and Stage II Delrin mounts . These mounts are still a huge upgrade over the stock swiss-cheese rubber mounts.
We developed these mounts for those wanting an upgrade in both performance and durability over the OEM parts, yet were still very concerned with daily comfort. For comparison, the OEM mounts are around 40-45A hardness. These mounts will provide an almost factory level of comfort in VR6 cars while offering both an increase in performance and greatly increased level of durability. Vibration is more evident in 4-cylinder models.
Complete Kit w/trans (5pcs w/hardware)

BFI Stage 1 Polyurethane Motor Mount Complete Kit



These are poly, 85A in shore hardness. For comparison, the OEM mounts are around 40-45A hardness. BFI Stage 1’s are a huge upgrade over the stock swiss-cheese rubber mounts. Stage I is intended for a higher level of performance, over our Stage .5 and Stealth.
They still offer reasonable ride quality, with some increased vibration over OEM in VR6 cars. Vibration is far more evident in 4-cylinder models.
Complete Kit w/trans (5pcs w/hardware)


BFI Stage 2 Delrin Complete Motor Mount Kit



These are Delrin, and fall in between poly and solid metal as far as stiffness goes. Delrin, like some poly versions, requires some break in time. It will take 150-250 miles for them to soften to their effective hardness. They also require some heat in them to soften up. And on colder days they may have more vibration at start up until driven on for a few miles. They are also self-lubricating so it will never squeak.
The Stage 2 mounts are designed for pure performance, at the expense of ride comfort. They will hold the motor and transmission very securely and help get all the power to the ground. If you drag race or are after total performance, then the Stage II is for you. If you are concerned about vibration, then perhaps you may want to go with a less rigid mount from BFI.
Complete kit w/trans (5pcs w/hardware)


Please post, IM, or email us at: [email protected] with any Technical Questions
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: (Si Trav)

Quote, originally posted by Si Trav »
are the .5 stage mounts back in stock for MK3? my order got cancelled because they were out of stock. I need to re-order them stat.

Please give us a call for the most up to date availability http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: (DooksVR6)

Quote, originally posted by DooksVR6 »
that sucks i have a broken trans mount

You can use the Transmission Mounts and hardware as they are compatible between Mk3's, Mk2's, Corrado's, B3 and B4 Passats. We cannot guarantee the compatibility of the hardware with the rest of the mounts.
Worst case scenario, you will need to re-use original factory hardware.
 

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Re: (fluffy1)

im getting timing chain.. clutch and water pump put into my car...
i use the car for daily use.
i own a 98 vr6 with no plans of turbo or any serious upgrades other that cam, intake and exhaust.
what bushing kit should I purchase???
 

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Re: (EuroDub09)

Quote, originally posted by EuroDub09 »
im getting timing chain.. clutch and water pump put into my car...
i use the car for daily use.
i own a 98 vr6 with no plans of turbo or any serious upgrades other that cam, intake and exhaust.
what bushing kit should I purchase???

anyone?
 

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BFI mounts

I just recently purchased a set of BFI mounts for my 98 Jettxa GLX VR6
I'm confused. Take a look at the pics. You can see what is new and what is stock. After looking at the "directions" supplied by BFI's website, I'm still confused. How, exactly is this supposed to work.
Note that I am speaking about the lower portion of the mount. This is the mount off the passenger side nearest the firewall. I removed the slimey stock guts but the "new" replacement is half of the size.

If I stack two of them then you can see that the fit is closer to stock.
What am I doing wrong. I've never had this much trouble with motor mounts...

Am I supposed to disassemble the slimey mount and put the small dount withing the metal part??

Please advise...





Modified by derhunt at 3:22 PM 12-27-2009


Modified by derhunt at 3:24 PM 12-27-2009
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Re: BFI mounts (derhunt)

Quote, originally posted by derhunt »
I just recently purchased a set of BFI mounts for my 98 Jettxa GLX VR6
How, exactly is this supposed to work.
Note that I am speaking about the lower portion of the mount. This is the mount off the passenger side nearest the firewall.
If I stack two of them then you can see that the fit is closer to stock.
What am I doing wrong. I've never had this much trouble with motor mounts...

Am I supposed to disassemble the slimey mount and put the small dount withing the metal part?

Our lower mount (the smaller of the two stealth poly mounts for the rear assembly) is smaller than the factory unit because the poly is solid and the factory unit is hydraulic. The size of these two mounts do not need to be the same as they have nothing to do with the height of the engine. Think of these as "rebound" mounts. They only function when the motor has reverse load or "lift" on it.
Using the supplied hardware and stainless steel washer (large silver washer) bolt the entire rear assembly together in the same manner in which it was taken apart. The silver washer is for the bottom of the rear engine mount ~ once bolted in, it holds the smaller of the two poly parts to the bottom of the rear mount, completing it as an assembly.
 

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Re: BFI mounts (black forest ind)

Ah ha! Thank you for the explanation. Now I understand how it's supposed to work!
(Maybe I'll post a pic later for those who may not understand this step)
Btw, a couple other questions.
1. On the front mount there is a small cup under the frame held on by 3 nuts. I understand that the mount is supposed to be changed there as well. I was looking at the cup on mine and it looks as if someone welded it onto the frame. What is the detriment to this "system" if I cannot swap that particular mount? I might be able to hit it with a cutting wheel but am not sure about the re-assembly process.
2. When I was taking apart the rear mount in my initial inquiry, I managed to loose the allen head screw that attached from the bottom. Can you tell me the size (length), pitch and grade so that I might find a replacement at a hardware store?
Thanks in advance



Modified by derhunt at 1:46 PM 12-28-2009
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Re: BFI mounts (derhunt)

Quote, originally posted by derhunt »

1. On the front mount there is a small cup under the frame held on by 3 nuts. I understand that the mount is supposed to be changed there as well. I was looking at the cup on mine and it looks as if someone welded it onto the frame. What is the detriment to this "system" if I cannot swap that particular mount? I might be able to hit it with a cutting wheel but am not sure about the re-assembly process.

The lower cup should not be welded. There should be (3) 13mm bolts holding the cup on ~ the cup is not needed and can be discarded if you can get it off. It is in your best interest to change that particular mount with the rest of them as it does see a lot of action any time the car is moving in the forward direction.
Quote, originally posted by derhunt »
2. When I was taking apart the rear mount in my initial inquiry, I managed to loose the allen head screw that attached from the bottom. Can you tell me the size (length), pitch and grade so that I might find a replacement at a hardware store?

Your Mounts should have come with new hardware if you purchased a kit from BFI. Check for that bolt in the bag with the rest - it will be a 17mm hex head rather than a allen head bolt.
 

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Re: BFI mounts (black forest ind)

Yes I ordered the kit from BFI...That's why I'm asking the questions here.
So let me see if I understand correctly. The small cup that is held by three bolts on most VW's and apparently spot welded on mine can come off. I can discard it once I can cut it off/remove it, right?
So if that is the case, why do you then say that's it's best to change that mount in the very next sentence. Can I do that without the cup?
Can I simply stick the rubber piece there with the metal disc and a bolt to install it without upsing the cup at all?
Sorry to be difficult but stuff is not very intuitive...
Thanks for the help thus far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Re: BFI mounts (derhunt)

Quote, originally posted by derhunt »
The small cup that is held by three bolts on most VW's and apparently spot welded on mine can come off. I can discard it once I can cut it off/remove it, right?

The "cup" for the bottom of the front cross-member does nothing for the function of the engine mounts. As long as we are talking about the same thing, you can remove it (however you like), throw it away, and install our lower mount as stated earlier.
Quote, originally posted by derhunt »
So if that is the case, why do you then say that's it's best to change that mount in the very next sentence. Can I do that without the cup?
Can I simply stick the rubber piece there with the metal disc and a bolt to install it without upsing the cup at all?

Whatever is on the lower part of your cross-member now can be unbolted (factory fastener for this mount is an 8mm allen bolt), discarded, and the new Stealth mount (smaller poly part) is installed using provided bolt, small and large washers.
If none of this has helped, please consider enlisting the help of a professional for this installation http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: BFI mounts (black forest ind)

Thank you for your timely response. I appreciate your assistance on my issue.
I'd like to add some feedback if I may; You may want to consider updating your installation instructions as I found them to be lacking in explanation. Sometimes the "experts" forget that not everyone is an expert too.
I am not a "professional" mechanic but I am reasonably competent in auto repair, electrical, troubleshooting, etc... However, VW's are new to me and I had never encountered Motor mount issues such as these. (Like the welded cup for example- I didn't do that and I was not sure if that was factory or what...)
Thanks to your assitance I now know what I need to do and I'll post up some pics when I'm done. Maybe others can learn from my trials.
Nevertheless, thanks again for the good cstomer support.
 
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