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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I did my searches and came up empty. i have all bolt on and other mods done from sai delete and 2nd 02 and cat delete to upgraded silicone tip 3'dp short ram cold air upgraded dv n75 egr delete delete of all unnecessary vac lines silicone vac lines, water pump timing belt and tensioner done, 2.0 coil packs plugs front mt intercooler, new engine bay wire harness, spec d halo projector headlights, 1 to 4 inch drop coil overs, solid motor mounts, upgraded whole suspension, upgraded brake calipers and rotors, window tint, dbl din touch screen nav dvd cd mp3 mp4 yadda yadda, amp speakers ect. I've gutted everything but the dash, center console, front door cards. left in side Curtin airbags and rear 2 speakers. back upper and lower seats are gone. 100% carpet gone. rear door cards gone, headliner gone, trunk only has a few wrenches a spare tire a small floor jack a qt oil gallon water, a box with extra left over plugs coil packs belts ect.....she has a 1.8t 180hp awp k03s. 02j 5 speed manual. boost and voltage steering column pod with up tp 35 lbs boost gage. stage 3 clutch disk and st3 pressure plate car is 2002 (glx} i believe . { power everything but seats sliding sun roof leather heated heats Cruz control alarm had upgraded sound system with cd player and amp}

now with all that crap out the way I have some simple questions. when i got my tune I went to Ga to do it at Eurotune. they did the APR tunes. i was offered a cheaper tune if i waited 3 hrs drove to the 2nd location for eurotune. it was $320 for stage 2 tune with stock requirements added 30 some hp and hand full of trq. Also added immo sai egr ect ect delete. it was a 91\93 tune with no lift shift. 2 step using clutch switch and max rpm moved up to 7500 rpm I think. i see 23 lbs boost with spikes to 26 and 28, with cheap ebay boost gage. SO TO GET TO MY QUESTION. I have a donor mk4 gti with awp 1.8 turbo. im going to pull just the motor do a complete rebuild with upgraded internals for big turbo. I think I'm stuck on the GT28rs 450cc or 550cc injectors and upgrade the fuel pump. my plan is to run 350 to 400hp max with a roll cage 2 race seats and custom aluminum dash. it will also have upgraded intake cam. so can i make the tune that's on the ecu already work with the gt28rs? just by upgrading injectors fuel pump maybe manual boost controller with or without n75? diode mod? car is straight piped with no 2nd 02 sensor and a "glass pack" at the end. tid car is my baby!!! named her Gaggin Wagon and have the vw symbol and the outer ring says gaggin wagon. i also have the actual vin number plate tattoo as well. tis car will be a family life time car until I wreck it lol. So can I support 350 to 400 with current tune and supporting hardware or do I need a new tune? I just ad another thought and will hit the search bar next, has any one played with twin turbos? small k03s for quick spool off line and gt28rs for big turbo boot and higher HP numbers? does anyone have any other suggestions? input? live in sc or ga and wanna meet up for v dub fun and giggles? i have a few tunes and laptop for 1.8t manuals. also have vcds and obd 11. all help is welcome and thanks for the help!!!
 

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2003 20th AE GTI #2728
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You will need a specific tune for your choice of turbo. You will also need to know injector size, fpr, maf housing size, maf sensor type, throttle body size and the wastegate spring pressure to get a good base tune. Check out Motoza for custom tunes, or if you want to do it yourself Eurodyne. Ignitron is a good plug & play standalone option.

Why gt28rs? Why not gtx2867r or a g25-xxx? The gt28rs is only good for about 320hp. Gtx2867r will get you to 400hp. A G25-xxx will be more expensive, but it will out perform another turbo of that size/class. What manifold? If your going through all the trouble you might want a little head room. If 300hp is all your after, get a quality k04 hybrid. You will gain gobs of mid range torque, easily achieve 300hp with supporting mods and save a few thousand bucks.

I'm 300hp +/- with a hybrid k04-023 on an audi TT manifold. Built bottom end, intake cam, full bolt-ons, big port intake mani, fmic, ect... It's not the fastest thing on the road by any means, but it is quicker than people think.

Hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You will need a specific tune for your choice of turbo. You will also need to know injector size, fpr, maf housing size, maf sensor type, throttle body size and the wastegate spring pressure to get a good base tune. Check out Motoza for custom tunes, or if you want to do it yourself Eurodyne. Ignitron is a good plug & play standalone option.

Why gt28rs? Why not gtx2867r or a g25-xxx? The gt28rs is only good for about 320hp. Gtx2867r will get you to 400hp. A G25-xxx will be more expensive, but it will out perform another turbo of that size/class. What manifold? If your going through all the trouble you might want a little head room. If 300hp is all your after, get a quality k04 hybrid. You will gain gobs of mid range torque, easily achieve 300hp with supporting mods and save a few thousand bucks.

I'm 300hp +/- with a hybrid k04-023 on an audi TT manifold. Built bottom end, intake cam, full bolt-ons, big port intake mani, fmic, ect... It's not the fastest thing on the road by any means, but it is quicker than people think.

Hope that helps.
So Im currently on stock injectors but I have a set in the glove box i wanna 450cc or 550cc or around that. Ill have to look at them later and see. I have a 3 inch maf housing with stock awp 1.8t brand new maf sensor. I have a new but stock fuel pump. 3 bar fpr but I also have a 4 bar in the glove also. I have the (correct me if im wrong on name) forge 007 diverter valve with red spring from ecs tuning i believe. I was kinda stuck on the GT28rs because of price and how lots of people were talking about them. Playing it safe I guess. With all the difference in models and what not like GT28rs gt30xx t3t4 k04 01 f1 f3 ect ect it all got confusing. I was also set at 300 to 350hp because thats what everyone says the safe zone is for our 1.8ts. Without upgrades to bottom end. I wasn't worried about the work on building the bottom only the price. Give me a fan some music a smoke and a beer and ill rebuild the whole damn car with a pair of needle nose pliers. The numbers people were throwing out was in the thousands. I actually did some research today and found the H beam rifle drilled 20mm wrist pin rods around $500/$600 for the set. About the same if I choose to do the pistons. Or slap some good rings on and call it a day. So now im looking at research for higher numbers in hp and trq. Im thinking of building for 550 to 600hp but turning that down to 400 to 450. Just so there isnt stress on turbo and whatever. I want it to do the 450 like its nothing. I dont want to max out a smaller tubo as if it had asthma and its breathe is gone because it cant keep up. I can bolt on and shave off but dont have a welder or skills to weld lol. So to make it easy I need bolt on stuff. Like a new manifold and a ** whatever turbo is fine if i dont have to weld brackets flanges adapters ect. So with that in mind what turbo and manifold combo do you suggest? What support mods? Say $3k to $3.5 budget? Other than the rods rings maybe pistons and rod Berings what would you recommend? Stock head gasket work? I will get arp head bolts.

Also thanks for the info.
 

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2003 20th AE GTI #2728
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Here is my best advice. I'm no expert.

First off, your AWP has 19mm wrist pins. Dont buy 20mm rods unless you plan on doing new pistons as well. The OE Mahle pistons are good for 500hp+. Your stock forged crank is good for 500hp+, but stroker kits are available. If you change the crank, you must swap the appropriate pistons, not change the rod length. More displacement = quicker spool, more torque across the powerband, better bottom end and the ability to spool a bigger, more efficient turbo. Basically, you'll make the same hp with out revving so high. With the price of a full valvetrain to get to 8,000rpm+ this can be a less expensive route if you can source the correct OEM parts from a donor car or used on the interwebs. I think the 1.8t forum's FAQ has those awnsers.

You should post in the 1.8t forum anyway, you will get better results.

Get ARP head studs/nuts if you plan on taking the head on and off, get ARP bolts if you are going to leave it on and dont mind struggling a bit more when installing it. ARP bottom end hardware and ARP fly wheel hardware. New OEM hardware for the rest.

Calico main bearings and rod bearings if you want to rev over 7200rpm or go over 500hp.

As for the head, do stainless exhaust valves at a minimum. Do intake valves, springs/guides/keepers if you want to rev over 7200 or want to be over 500hp any time in the future.

I run the Autotech intake cam on my AWP head and have good results. Cat Cams makes some nice sets as well. 3658's are good. There are plenty of threads out there to search. Remember... bigger cams will give you more top end power at the expense of bottom end power (for the most part). This can turn a fun streetable car into a slow dog with a short screaming powerband near redline.

Get the blue Gates Racing timing belt. Get a manual timing belt tentioner. Get an all metal water pump. Replace/clean the oil cooler.

A fluidamper crank pully will help smooth out any vibrations that can wear out the crank position sensor. This is if you want to rev over 7200rpm on a regular basis. Underdrive pulleys can help free up a few hp.

Dont buy a cheap-o turbo manifold, you WILL fight exhaust leaks and warping/cracking. Ask me how I know... lol. CTS is junk, or so I am told.
Stick with stainless. 321 is best. 304L will work as well. Make sure it is a true schedule pipe, not some thin walled tube. Get it ceramic coated. Do V-band connection for the manifold to turbo housing. No gaskets or bolts to mess with and fitment is easier.

JDL makes a nice top mount turbo manifold.

Force Fed Engineering still makes a couple nice turbo kits for the hot side parts too. Bottom mount and top mount. Either way, you will still need a custom downpipe and dump pipe to complete the hotside parts. They only use v-band and can source the turbo as well.

Pag Parts quit supporting the 1.8t but if you find one of his kits used, buy it. The best of the best.

Cold side, you will need custom intercooler piping to accommodate the new turbo location, dv/bov, pcv, ect... They sell kits on Ebay if you are good with a bunch if couplers, hose clamps and pre bent pipe.

FMIC. 450hp rated or better. 2.5in piping. Be prepared to modify the front bumper cover ect. You can tell a good FMIC from a bad FMIC by how dense the fin's are. More fin's, more cooling. Sometimes thicker is better than longer. Stay away from dual-pass designs, so I am told.

Catch can. Route your pcv system through a catch can to prevent your new FMIC from filling up with sludge and condensation. Anything that vents to atmosphere will smell like oil, there are plenty of kits that vent both to atmosphere and back into the TIP. Anything that doesn't drain what it collects back to the oil system will require emptying.

You will need to reroute your heater hoses. No matter what manifold/turbo, they will be in the way. They make a kit for this application.

You will need appropriate sized custom oil and coolent feed lines to the new turbo location, custom oil and coolent drain lines from the new turbo location and sometimes an oil pressure regulator depending on what turbo you use.

For fueling, an upgraded in tank pump is best. An inline Walbro will work, but then you are stuck with extra connections and a pump to wire/mount under the hood. Stick with 3bar fpr. It is easier on the pump. Go with Genesis gen2 1000cc injectors, no matter what turbo you choose. Better to have plenty of head room in the fueling department and there are plenty of 1.8t's idling just fine on even bigger injectors than these. Stock fuel rail might be at its limits at this point too.

Water Meth injection. Search and see if it is something you might be interested in, especially if you dont get the best FMIC or are having timing pull while tuning.

The clutch will most definitely fail at this level as well. Fx300. Single mass flywheel. HD throw out bearing.

HD rubber or poly Motor/Trans/Pendulum mounts rated for more than your hp goal. So the engine and trans dont escape the hood area. Get ready for vibrations and new rattles. Dynamat is your friend.

If you are good with sending all 400hp to one tire, you can leave the stock differential. If you end up putting a Peliquin or Quafe in there after the stock diff breaks (this means opening up the trans), some Raxles might be cheap insurance so you dont snap an axel or CV joint while actually putting the power down. Or buy new OE axels a lot. Options!

The transmission will probably be okay depending on how it has been treated. 02j/02m see 400hp all day with progressive tuning, it is a torque spike with good traction or a hard launch that will kill your trans. Also might want to refresh the shift linkage and bushings (trans and in car) to help avoid the money shift. Short shifters are also available.

My friend, I am sorry to say that you must be dreaming if you think $3,500.00 will be enough. More like 5-6k if you do the work and score some killer deals. Probably more like 8k said and done. I am being realistic in regards to a reliable setup that will last as long as your vin number tattoo. Just know what you are getting your self into...

I am going to quote another vortexer: "buy once, cry once". That being said, I say go for it however you want too. Screw the haters, lol. I love my built 1.8t. It was worth the work in my eyes and I can always go make some more money tomorrow.
Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here is my best advice. I'm no expert.

First off, your AWP has 19mm wrist pins. Dont buy 20mm rods unless you plan on doing new pistons as well. The OE Mahle pistons are good for 500hp+. Your stock forged crank is good for 500hp+, but stroker kits are available. If you change the crank, you must swap the appropriate pistons, not change the rod length. More displacement = quicker spool, more torque across the powerband, better bottom end and the ability to spool a bigger, more efficient turbo. Basically, you'll make the same hp with out revving so high. With the price of a full valvetrain to get to 8,000rpm+ this can be a less expensive route if you can source the correct OEM parts from a donor car or used on the interwebs. I think the 1.8t forum's FAQ has those awnsers.

You should post in the 1.8t forum anyway, you will get better results.

Get ARP head studs/nuts if you plan on taking the head on and off, get ARP bolts if you are going to leave it on and dont mind struggling a bit more when installing it. ARP bottom end hardware and ARP fly wheel hardware. New OEM hardware for the rest.

Calico main bearings and rod bearings if you want to rev over 7200rpm or go over 500hp.

As for the head, do stainless exhaust valves at a minimum. Do intake valves, springs/guides/keepers if you want to rev over 7200 or want to be over 500hp any time in the future.

I run the Autotech intake cam on my AWP head and have good results. Cat Cams makes some nice sets as well. 3658's are good. There are plenty of threads out there to search. Remember... bigger cams will give you more top end power at the expense of bottom end power (for the most part). This can turn a fun streetable car into a slow dog with a short screaming powerband near redline.

Get the blue Gates Racing timing belt. Get a manual timing belt tentioner. Get an all metal water pump. Replace/clean the oil cooler.

A fluidamper crank pully will help smooth out any vibrations that can wear out the crank position sensor. This is if you want to rev over 7200rpm on a regular basis. Underdrive pulleys can help free up a few hp.

Dont buy a cheap-o turbo manifold, you WILL fight exhaust leaks and warping/cracking. Ask me how I know... lol. CTS is junk, or so I am told.
Stick with stainless. 321 is best. 304L will work as well. Make sure it is a true schedule pipe, not some thin walled tube. Get it ceramic coated. Do V-band connection for the manifold to turbo housing. No gaskets or bolts to mess with and fitment is easier.

JDL makes a nice top mount turbo manifold.

Force Fed Engineering still makes a couple nice turbo kits for the hot side parts too. Bottom mount and top mount. Either way, you will still need a custom downpipe and dump pipe to complete the hotside parts. They only use v-band and can source the turbo as well.

Pag Parts quit supporting the 1.8t but if you find one of his kits used, buy it. The best of the best.

Cold side, you will need custom intercooler piping to accommodate the new turbo location, dv/bov, pcv, ect... They sell kits on Ebay if you are good with a bunch if couplers, hose clamps and pre bent pipe.

FMIC. 450hp rated or better. 2.5in piping. Be prepared to modify the front bumper cover ect. You can tell a good FMIC from a bad FMIC by how dense the fin's are. More fin's, more cooling. Sometimes thicker is better than longer. Stay away from dual-pass designs, so I am told.

You will need to reroute your heater hoses. No matter what manifold/turbo, they will be in the way. They make a kit for this application.

You will need appropriate sized custom oil and coolent feed lines to the new turbo location, custom oil and coolent drain lines from the new turbo location and sometimes an oil pressure regulator depending on what turbo you use.

For fueling, an upgraded in tank pump is best. An inline Walbro will work, but then you are stuck with extra connections and a pump to wire/mount under the hood. Stick with 3bar fpr. It is easier on the pump. Go with Genesis gen2 1000cc injectors, no matter what turbo you choose. Better to have plenty of head room in the fueling department and there are plenty of 1.8t's idling just fine on even bigger injectors than these. Stock fuel rail might be at its limits at this point too.

Water Meth injection. Search and see if it is something you might be interested in, especially if you dont get the best FMIC or are having timing pull while tuning.

The clutch will most definitely fail at this level as well. Fx300. Single mass flywheel. HD throw out bearing.

HD rubber or poly Motor/Trans/Pendulum mounts rated for more than your hp goal. So the engine and trans dont escape the hood area. Get ready for vibrations and new rattles. Dynamat is your friend.

If you are good with sending all 400hp to one tire, you can leave the stock differential. If you end up putting a Peliquin or Quafe in there after the stock diff breaks (this means opening up the trans), some Raxles might be cheap insurance so you dont snap an axel or CV joint while actually putting the power down. Or buy new OE axels a lot. Options!

The transmission will probably be okay depending on how it has been treated. 02j/02m see 400hp all day with progressive tuning, it is a torque spike with good traction or a hard launch that will kill your trans. Also might want to refresh the shift linkage and bushings (trans and in car) to help avoid the money shift. Short shifters are also available.

My friend, I am sorry to say that you must be dreaming if you think $3,500.00 will be enough. More like 5-6k if you do the work and score some killer deals. Probably more like 8k said and done. I am being realistic in regards to a reliable setup that will last as long as your vin number tattoo. Just know what you are getting your self into...

I am going to quote another vortexer: "buy once, cry once". That being said, I say go for it however you want too. Screw the haters, lol. I love my built 1.8t. It was worth the work in my eyes and I can always go make some more money tomorrow.
Cheers!
Yep. I just read all that and saw the $3500 fly out the window. Is all that needed fot the gtx2867r you were talking about? Ive been looking at some of the eliminator kits. Around $2500 give or take a few. That with a $500 ish tune and upgrade rods do you think i could get away with $4/$5k? Looking like 400 is my max. Is there anything that puts out like the gtx2867r but cheaper? Taiwan makes a gtx2867r kit for $900+ tax 😂mamba I think it was called. Its no secret im a cheap mofo. And witb the way my wife spends cash I will never get a BT. If you didn't really care about breaking stuff and had a $4k maybe 5k budget what would you use?
 

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2003 20th AE GTI #2728
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605 Posts
Fast
Reliable
Cheap
You only get to pick 2

Minimum:
I would get this kit with a 50 trim or whatever they offer that is comprable that is internally gated. This will save you some cash at the expense of a little lag.

Local exhaust shop for a downpipe

IE 19x144 drilled rods

ARP head bolts

Motor trans and dogbone mounts

Stainless exhaust valves

FMIC

Clutch/flywheel/throw out bearing

All the custom oil/coolent lines
 

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Registered
Joined
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19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Fast
Reliable
Cheap
You only get to pick 2

Minimum:
I would get this kit with a 50 trim or whatever they offer that is comprable that is internally gated. This will save you some cash at the expense of a little lag.

Local exhaust shop for a downpipe

IE 19x144 drilled rods

ARP head bolts

Motor trans and dogbone mounts

Stainless exhaust valves

FMIC

Clutch/flywheel/throw out bearing

All the custom oil/coolent lines
Hell yeah. I. Half way there. I have stg3 clutch single mass flywheel. I have a fmic. Took a million tiny cutting wheels and some cuts to hands and face when the explode but we got the front bumper cut out for it. I have catless and a 3inch dp if needed my guy at the muffler shop offered $225 for straight pipe and magnaflow from 2 1/2 to 3 inches my choice. I have the ridged "solid" motor and dog mounts.

Idc to much about breaking stuff. I just love the whole experience of driving fast cheating death breaking stuff fixing upgrade and do it again. We have 6 mk4 with 1.8t sitting around 3 are running so blowing something just means dipping in the parts cars. Im gonna spend some time looking for a cheap gtx2867r kit and tune. Ill get the pistons and rods ect from ecs tuning next week. Im pretty sure we have the drop in TDI crank to stroke to 2.0t. So I can pull the motor 1.8t awp from the extra golf gti. Rebuild with tdi crank new rods piston exhaust valves ect. Get the bt kit slap that on there. By the time Im done I should have ecu back from tuner.

Now its time to fig out this pos 1st 2nd grind!
 
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