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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The 3.2's idle funked up a few weeks ago, and this time the engine flush routine did not help to free up the VVT solenoid valve. A bit over a year ago, the Liquimoly engine flush, followed by fresh oil/filter restored the idle, but now it's time to open it up for a look-see, and install new VVT solenoids. This engine is at 95k, has the oil changed more often than the factory regime, and the cam gallery was clean and shiny when I fixed the pcv oil collector some years back.







After the intake manifold, the valve cover. On my way to remove it now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·


Not much difference than when I changed the valve cover...

The coolant must be drained to get the upper timing cover off:


The "crack pipe" and several other hoses all connect together to a fitting that uses the opening in the block under the intake cam; and, the last bolt to be removed for the timing cover is unreachable without removing said fitting.



The intake VVT solenoid (top most) can be tapped out from the cam gallery: the VVT's tend to stick in their bores. The exhaust VVT responded to my doing a bit of tapping on the outside of it, thankfully: it can't be reached from the cam gallery. After the tapping, I was able to pull it out.

So, the new VVT's are now installed, and now it's time to put it all back together... Then put in the coolant. I can't linger due the likelihood of some rain!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·


Upper Timing Cover is on, as is the valve cover. Other than the top radiator hose, the coolant hoses are all connected. The intake manifold goes on tomorrow, along with attaching the wiring harness. I may beat the approaching rain :D
 

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Awesome, fast work. Are you going to just leave a funnel in the coolant bubble and burp the system, or pull vacuum on it for a faster fill?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
BTW, after removal, I energized both of the solenoids with 12v: the intake VVT did not move or make any noise. The exhaust VVT moved and made a clicking noise. Just a confirmation of the same process, with same results, prior to their removal. It will be interesting to see the effect of a working intake VVT: after 1200 rpm, the intake cam is progressively variable due to oil pressure. The engine should pull more, with better mpg :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)


Looks a bit like a maze o_O The color in the middle is posi-taps and wire I added to be able to diagnose the solenoids.



Intake manifold is on, engine wiring and plumbing are done. Tomorrow the front bumper goes on, and the coolant goes in. Hardly any nuts and bolts leftover...:sneaky:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I'm happy to say the A3 is running smooth and strong 🔧🔧👍 I took advantage of the bumper being off again and raised the oil cooler/AN fittings to the level of the radiator bottom...I realized that one good, hard bump could have been disastrous where it was.

I installed Schimmel's MCT (manual cam chain tensioner) as I finished up.


Bit more info:
The MCT locknut is removed, and the piston is screwed all the way out. Then the main body of the MCT is screwed into the upper timing cover, followed by turning the exposed end of the piston into the main body, against the chain, finger-tight. Turn the engine (at the pulley end) forward, and use your fingers again to get it tight against the chain. I was able to get the piston in a bit further after rotating the engine.

The locknut goes on, and you put a wrench on it, followed by a wrench on the exposed hex end of the piston to prevent it from moving. Tighten the locknut to finish the job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The vacuum kit, once I sussed out the adapter for the coolant reservoir, worked quite well. It appeared overfilled, so I used the turkey baster to remove coolant, but the next day it was at the bottom of the coolant reservoir: so I put almost all I took out back in to bring it to the top of the fill level...;)

Awesome, fast work. Are you going to just leave a funnel in the coolant bubble and burp the system, or pull vacuum on it for a faster fill?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ahh, back in the saddle again...:cool: This car is so enjoyable to drive. Definitely worth the effort. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
FYI, here's pic of the VVT's out of my engine:

The moving part is inside the piece with the O-rings on it. These don't look clogged up, but I couldn't easily take them apart for examination. It would be a destructive process...I have seen a vid on youtube showing a severely gunked up VVT: looked like the gunk was hardening up. The car was an older VAG small sedan (A4/Jetta).
 

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I broke one of these solenoids while disassembling my head, the rollers came completely off the housing.
i replaced it with a used one from a t-reg
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
They are pricey things new from the dealer! It's aftermarket or one that does the clickety-clack when 12v is applied for those without deep pockets.

I broke one of these solenoids while disassembling my head, the rollers came completely off the housing.
i replaced it with a used one from a t-reg
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I am liking the Schimmel MCT mentioned above...Since it does not depend on oil pressure to maintain the chain tension, once you adjust it finger-tight, the chain does not rattle in the morning! Or any other time the engine has sat for long...Or practically any other time the oil pressure backs off. (y)
 

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I also wanted to get that MCT but saved money and already had a new chain tensioner. I'm putting an oil presure gauge in
 

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I am liking the Schimmel MCT mentioned above...Since it does not depend on oil pressure to maintain the chain tension, once you adjust it finger-tight, the chain does not rattle in the morning! Or any other time the engine has sat for long...Or practically any other time the oil pressure backs off. (y)
Did you have to remove the timing chain and/or guide to install the MCT?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
No, you just remove the oem hydraulic adjuster...You have to remove the air cleaner box, and then it's accessible, if you have small hands ;) I'd take off the egr valve to make it easier, that's just two small screws. The large nut on the adjuster itself is 1". Here's Schimmel's instructions for the MCT:


Did you have to remove the timing chain and/or guide to install the MCT?
 
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