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I have searched.

I have a lowered mk3 with rear drums. But i picked up some parts from the local gy to do a rear disk conversion.

Do i NEED a new prop valve? Some people say yes, some say no. On the GAP sight, it sates that it needs adjustment.

I know that the ride height effects the function of the valve. So, by lowering is my bias ****ed up?(my fronts lock up before my rears)

I looked at my bently and i didn't find much about what the settings should be for the prop valve.

Basically i would like to know HOW i should adjust it when i do the conversion. And if its necessary to get a new one when, i can just adjust the valve anyway. I would like to have a good and reliable braking set up.

Lemme know broskies.:beer::beer::beer::beer:
 

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FV-QR

You need the non ABS Disc valve.

You need to adjust it.

99% of people on here don't adjust it, but don't follow their bad habits. Lowering the rear of the car, and not adjusting the rear load bias valve, causes the rear to have MUCH more bias, and will lock up very easy.

We already have ALOT more rear brake then needed on stock 11.3" Plus Suspention fronts, let alone on 10.1" base fronts. Typical mk3 track setup is the cheapest semi-metallic pads you can get on the back, to keep them from locking. Trail-braking is still very easy with crap pads, no need for more bite.




You will hate life when you go to change it, as they are 99.9% of the time seized. Have a GOOD set of Torx bits ready, as you will need to pound them in after you strip the allen bolts. An impact makes the job MUCH easier, as they spin right out half the time with it, but many times still just strip.
 

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You need to replace the rear proportioning valve when you switch to rear disc brakes. Get one from a donor car that came with rear disc brakes to make sure that you get the correct one.

The proportioning valve is necessary because if the rear brakes lock up before the front brakes the car will spin.

I have an untested theory that if you change to 11.3" or 11.0" front brakes at the same time, you should test the brakes to see if the rear brakes lock up before the fronts, and if they don't, you may be okay NOT CHANGING THE PROPORTIONING VALVE. BUT, this is just an untested theory, since I have always replaced the proportioning valve when performing a rear disc brake conversion.

Lowering the car more than 1"- 1 1/2", NEGATIVELY AFFECTS HANDLING.
 
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