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Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
Thanks for all the updates - impressed you are persevering. I'm really worried about all that plastic in the engine bay long term... Sounds like you are doing it right, though!
Thank you! It definitely motivates me to get it done when posting online.

So I have the dct fluids and filter coming in Friday. I decided we'll I can remove the battery and tray pretty easily as I've molded and wired my brain to this tiny engine bay.
So I put everything back on so that I can start the car , check the brake booster so that the brake pedal isn't so heavy( and dangerous)

I fill the coolant into the reservoir, and it leaks right away onto the drive way.

I must have either not put back on a hose or another type of coolant hose /flange connector went bad in the back of the engine bay.



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PANIK!!!!!


Been giving it an hour or so after work but going to just wait til this weekend and jack it all up and take care of everything while I get started on the dct filter and see how much dct oil I can get out without being able to warm up the transmission.

May wait til I can just drive it. But I have to solve the new issue.

Lol instead of a slow leak I had before which I am sure I fixed. It's just pouring out now lol.

Here's looking at it leak all over the driveway.

Magic mirror on the wall, who's got the greenest grass of them all

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I'm going to guess at the rate and speed of this leak it's coming from between 23 and 25. Hopefully I just forgot to put a hose on.


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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Coolz

found out somehow I pinched the hose out of the way and view between the engine and inlet of the new flange when I tightend things back. Open inlet in red circle. Loosened the whole flange out and pulled the hose out and onto inlet.

No more leaks. Non after a few days of driving.

Also the coolant temp sensor on the new flange piece just needed the old old ring inside from the old flange piece that luckily I kept around in a bucket and didn't throw away.

I had to reuse that. Pretty important when putting it back together as it doesn't come out as two pieces when pulling old temp sensor out.

This whole ordeal, the airpump was the easiest thing to tackle. The o rings were cheap on eBay and it helps to have in off when connecting some of the hoses onto the flange.
I shoud have taken a photo of the air pump and seals but I started spinning the little I shaped shaftuntil oil spilled onto my hands.



Feels so good to be driving the car around again!


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Congrats and good job on the perseverance! I just bailed on a dynamic wing mirror turn signal mod because I was pretty sure I was going to break a bunch of stuff, so good on you for seeing it through.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Thanks guys!

What started as looking for the small leak turned into somewhat of a pickle.

Going to drive it for a few days before tackling the dct oil and filter change. I haven't messed with a rosstech obd2 thing on my old laptop in awhile but im sure I can figure out warnming up the dct box and drain and replacing the amount and slightly more that comes out. hopefully this weekend or next.

And I still have to tackle the ESC tuning timing belt kit before the year ends. That for sure I'm going to make sure I line-up a few days to do!





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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Lol just when I thought I got away with fixing and enjoying the car.
I think my alternator took a dump and my car died as it drained my battery right in the busy freeway with no power even for hazard lights.


Luckily metro was right there to tow it off the freeway for free. I just put in his shirt pocket 40 bucks for getting me off so fast. I heard so many **** yous in the ten minutes I was stuck there lol.


AAA took me home.
Time to test and figure out when to replace the alternator and start recharging the battery.

I'm starting to become a real vwvortex member now.
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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
The alternator was easier than I thought to replace. Just had to move a mounted hose slightly out of the way.

Unbolt the 2 bolt that hold the alternator.

The second bolt needed some clearance by moving the tensioner with a wrench.

Unplug the wire in the back of alternator and the two bolts that hold the wires and negative cable

Then rotate the alternator towards you until you can shimmy it out to your left.


To make sure you have clearance to put back the alternator

Screw in the bolts that were holding the alternator in place in to new alternator before you put it in and smack it with a hammer so that you pushing the black thing in the left of the 2nd picture to make more space to shimmy it back in.

Slide in alternator upside down, plug in all the wires and rotate
Align the top first, put bolt in to secure it and push down and align the 2nd bolt. 2nd bolt will again need the tensioner moved

I ordered a used OEM part from dismantler WolfAutoparts for 70 bucks. Works great.

Took my sweet ass time and did it in two hours.
Great success!!!
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