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Break in period

1262 Views 14 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  S0ULB0Y
I just finished rebuilding my VR6, and ran it for about 20 min or so at 2k rpm's to seat the rings and check for problems. Since then I've put about 50 miles on the car, driving gently, and varying speeds etc. I had planned to change the oil at around 200 miles, but I check it everytime i start the car, and although it's not consuming any like i expected it to, there is getting to be a lot more tiny metal flakes in it than I am comfortable with. I'm thinkin I should just go ahead and drain it out and refill it. But i've read that it's ok to run it up to 500 miles on the original.
Any expert advice out there?
(I know most people would say whats the big deal just change it, but i'm strapped for cash cause my wifes car blew a tire, and I don't want to park the Corrado till I get paid next unless I have a valid reason.)
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Re: Break in period (NoCYet)

ttt.
Re: Break in period (NoCYet)

When me and my bro built his 500 hp V8 chevy motor we did the 20 min warm up. Check everything for any problems. Set the timing etc etc. We changed the oil after that. There was some tiny melt flakes like you said you had. After that he ran for 1000 miles then changed again. There was just a little bit more but not much. He changes every 3000 miles now. After the first 3000 miles he went to a synthetic oil. YOu might as well change it. better safe than sorry.
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Re: Break in period (QuickBlackGTi)

The #1 thing you can do to for preventative maintainence, or so I am told
is change the oil.
If you are getting metal flakes in the oil, which my brother had when he re-did his whole engine, you best change it. I have yet to have anyone tell me changing the only to early or to often is not good.
And regular motor oil is dirt cheap and worth its weight (mind the pun) when you consider how much you dumped into the engine to make it run like a beauty. Once all the flakes are gone and the motor broken in after like 1000miles or whatever, then switch to synthetic.
For breaking in the engine, you know for yourself to be gentle in the beginning but eventually there is two ways to finish the job. Drive like a granny for longer or give her a little every once and while.
My bro chose the latter.
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Re: Break in period (Bagchus)

quote:[HR][/HR]The #1 thing you can do to for preventative maintainence, or so I am told
is change the oil.
If you are getting metal flakes in the oil, which my brother had when he re-did his whole engine, you best change it. I have yet to have anyone tell me changing the only to early or to often is not good.
And regular motor oil is dirt cheap and worth its weight (mind the pun) when you consider how much you dumped into the engine to make it run like a beauty. Once all the flakes are gone and the motor broken in after like 1000miles or whatever, then switch to synthetic.
For breaking in the engine, you know for yourself to be gentle in the beginning but eventually there is two ways to finish the job. Drive like a granny for longer or give her a little every once and while.
My bro chose the latter.
[HR][/HR]​
Ditto, except drive it like a granny for 500 miles, then drive it a little harder for the next 300 miles, and then drive it like a granny for 200 more miles, it'll give a goo break in.
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Re: Break in period (NoCYet)

Not reading what everyone wrote, but the break in period rumors that you hear , are just that. What you want to make sure of, is that you constantly move the rpms around for the first thousand miles. Dont do highway driving in 5th gear for 300 miles and things like that. Just keep things moving. I did it to MY MP3, not a single problem.
Re: Break in period (NoCYet)

I'd just leave the oil in there to 500. The filter will take care of the flakes. It is good the leave the oil because of all the extra friction modifiers you added when you built it ( assy. lube ) , you did use assy. lube right? I'd take it out for a short drive all easy like, make sure all is good and then burn rubber all over, or strap it to a dyno to break it in. The baby method is a bunch of crap. The 20minute at 2k rpms is for breaking in a new camshaft, certainely not for seating rings. Rings seal when pressure is applied forcing them into the cylinder walls to establish their permanent wear pattern--you do not attain that by babying it. Really man, be mean to that engine.
Re: Break in period (Project20v)

lol yeah i used assy lube. I also prelubed the crap out of it with a drill. then I cranked it over for a few secs with the coil wire off till the oil pressure light went out. I wasn't taking no chances there. It's so hard to keep my foot off it and shift at like 3k. it wants to run i can feel it. I took it up to 4500 once so far and I felt it start to really pull.

I know the rings are seated, It doesn't smoke or consume oil. Of course it only has about 120 miles on it so far.


[Modified by NoCYet, 10:53 AM 2-7-2002]
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Re: Break in period (NoCYet)

After I got my engine built I asked the same question, he said to leave the oil in for 2k miles, and drive it how you plan on driving the car. As in, break the engine in hard if you drive it hard, he stated that breaking it in soft would only make it more liable to screw up if I planned on driving it hard. I believe this only applies to engine that are rebuilt though, not the same for a new engine. Went to a VW shop and shot them the same question his exact reply was "Take it to 7 grand and it it doesn't blow up, its good to go, thats how we did our porsche engines!" Although I dont exactly agree with it, just make sure you use Dino (non synthetic oil) for the first 7k then you're able to use synthetic. A rebuilt engine's head and block has already dealt with the heat from when the block and head seat and whatnot...I believe, but could be proven wrong. But mine is fine and I drove it pretty hard from the day I got it back. Lots of metal shavings at first but thats normal, not a big deal.
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Re: Break in period (NoCYet)

i know this is kinda o/t but how would you break in a new vr6 same way you break in a rebuilt?
later..
Re: Break in period (ToqureinTuner)

quote:[HR][/HR]i know this is kinda o/t but how would you break in a new vr6 same way you break in a rebuilt?
later..[HR][/HR]​
That was the point I was trying to make, you wouldn't break in a new engine the same as a rebuild, sorry If I came off confusing.
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Re: Break in period (S0ULB0Y)

New, Rebuilt, not much difference. Treat them the same. Drive em hard from the get go. Rebuilt engines have what are called SEASONED blocks and head(s). Which means already exposed to expansion/contraction, so they are actually denser/harder than new, slightly. No big difference though. Most manufacturers dyno every engine before it sits in the car. Beat em, it is good for them, trust me I've asked them, they like it.
Re: Break in period (Project20v)

I'd change it at 500 miles. When you change it run a few quarts threw it with the plug out. Should clean it out a little better. I do it at every other oil change
Re: Break in period (vr6willeatyou)

I went ahead and did a quick drain and refill with valvoline 10w-30. The oil that came out looked like it had a lot of different crap in it. not too much metal though. I think it was mostly assembly lube. I've really been babying it, except for 3 or 4 excursions to 5k. It seems a bit hesitant in the lower rpms, but it takes of like a rocket after 4500. i'm still paranoid it's going to blow up
. It was my 1st engine rebuild of any kind. I learned the hard way that the VR6 ain't the best choice for a 1st time rebuilder. oh well it runs great so I'll gain confidence as i put more miles on her.
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Re: Break in period (NoCYet)

It will make more power as it breaks in more
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