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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Reading through my old thread is like looking at "This day on Facebook". Cringy. Looking at all of the plans I had that fell through because of laziness or poor planning, but mostly laziness, just led to a lot of BS to sift through without any actual content. My plan is to update this thread every day with the goal that it will motivate me to get off my ass and actually do something I love rather than make excuses to sit on the couch and watch Netflix all day. Not to mention get the parts I have lying around my house actually installed. I love cars, I love Volkswagens, and I love this community. Now enough with the sappy bs and onto the pictures:


Stock Wheels
by fresh_paint, on Flickr

My favorite picture of my car, also dirty:




I want to keep this car until it blows up, rebuild it and run it harder.

Josh

2012 Deep Black Pearl GLI Base 6MT

Engine Bay
034 Motorsport Billet Dogbone Mount
AWE TOP
OEM S3 short shifter
OEM Revision "D" Diverter Valve
OEM Wastegate Rattle Clip
SoundAktor Removed
Unitronic Cold Air Intake
APR K04
APR Front Mount Intercooler
APR Downpipe
Stock Cat-Back
APR Low output Tune
Red Top coil packs

Exterior
20% Tint

Interior
MkVI GTI Shift Knob w/Boot
DEAutoKey Interior LED kit w/ Red Dome Lights

Suspension
VWR Springs
Stock Front Shocks
Rear Koni STR.T Shocks
Stock Front Sway Bar End Links
TyrolSport DeadSet Rigid Subframe Collar Kit
Whiteline 24mm Rear Sway Bar
SuperPro Rear Sway Bar End Links

Wheels
Stock 17x7 ET54
Michelin X-Ice 225/45/17
 

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Normally when you buy parts you're supposed to install them fairly quick, not let them sit around your house as decorations :p

What parts do you have so far that you'll be installing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Haha yeah that's what I heard...

I have a set of Porsche Boxster four piston front calipers w/rotors. I need to replace one of the brake bleeder screws before I do. The main reason I haven't installed these yet is because I have been on the fence as to whether I actually need them or should I get rid of them and do the mods to the stock brakes ie tyrolsport caliper stiffening kit/ better pads/rotors mixed in with a dash of buyers remorse. I have also had a front lip for the last few years that I haven't put on because I want to fix a scrape on my front bumper first. And I have a set of wheel that have a minor flat spot on the inside. They still hold air, I just haven't gotten around to doing anything with them yet hence me starting this post!
 

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I love the idea of a BBK but unless you go Stage 3 I don't see the need for it. Plus they're stupid expensive. I just did better pads and rotors myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Got APR stage one on her today. Finally, after five years. Ever since the day I bought this car I have wanted to get it tuned. I never did because I was always worried about the clutch. I am kicking myself today for not doing it sooner. This is truly how it should have come from the factory. It feels like a brand new car. It's insane. I love it. New clutch coming soon as well as a more in depth review as I do have a few minor issues.

A big thank you to Smith Volkswagen for the work and 70k mile service.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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I recommend the Southbend Stage II Daily if you want something close to stock feel. It's slightly firmer than stock but not overly heavy.
 

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I recommend a Franken clutch set up, for even more oem feel and prob slightly cheaper set up..

I used an audi TT RS pressure plate, matched it with TDI clutch disc.

I pieced it together for 500 bucks. It uses the dmf set up so no chatter..

And it's good for about 500 ft tq.. And I currently have about 135k on the clutch I replaced it at 11k and no have 147k..

I can say nothing but good things about it.. pure oem set up straight outa vw parts bin

Real weak point on our clutch is the pressure plate , stock one does a bad job at clamping, the TT -RS clutch had significant improvement over clamping force..


image url
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Late update, on my 4.5 hour drive yesterday after getting tuned I noticed something strange. With a Unitronic intake, normally the 'whoosh' of the turbo is heard on the driver side however after the tune it has been more prominent on the passenger side. I take a look under the hood and this is what I find (pictured below). Now before I checked, my first instinct was that the silicone intake connector on the cold side of the turbo wasn't seated correctly and from what I can tell that seems to be the issue. What I am curious about is the oil residue on the turbo. Where could this be coming from? I'll be taking my intake off this weekend to clean it and reinstall it properly. What do you guys think?

That Franken-clutch idea is spot on, I think I may go that route that is for the input! Your car looks really good!

More to come, tomorrow.


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Thank Liking yours too, regarding oil leak possible causes could be a leaking oil feed tube line dripping onto things,

If you can't visually see it, like u said clean up the area go drive it then follow the leak..
 

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If my memory serves my correct, gsvr is right, but there should be a rubber/silicon tube connected to the end of that metal tube. When I had a shop install my GFB DV they said they had to disconnect that tube to get better access to the DV, and some coolant/oil leaked out. Try to find a matching tube and reconnect and you should be good to go!

:beer:
 

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Late update, on my 4.5 hour drive yesterday after getting tuned I noticed something strange. With a Unitronic intake, normally the 'whoosh' of the turbo is heard on the driver side however after the tune it has been more prominent on the passenger side. I take a look under the hood and this is what I find (pictured below). Now before I checked, my first instinct was that the silicone intake connector on the cold side of the turbo wasn't seated correctly and from what I can tell that seems to be the issue. What I am curious about is the oil residue on the turbo. Where could this be coming from? I'll be taking my intake off this weekend to clean it and reinstall it properly. What do you guys think?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Given that your car is 3+ years old, and has 70k+ miles, I would say that amount oil residue is normal. In turbocharged systems, it's very common for the intercooler hoses to have oil residue. Over time, oil will seep out of rubber and even silicone hoses. Clean it up and you should be good to go.

Also, I noticed you are a fellow Delawarian! I'm in Wilmington. Maybe I'll see you around :wave:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It's a 2012 with 66k on the clock. I am from Delaware but I live in Virginia now. I do come up often so I'll definitely see you around sooner or later!

I think what bothers me the most is that the oil residue is on the top and bottom front of that silicone connector between the turbo and the intake which leads me to believe that the connector is the point of failure. After taking a quick look I could not find anything that connects to the hard line above the turbo however I am going to look harder later. Looking at the base of the connector with relation to that nub on the turbo makes it seem like the connector is not seated properly.


Anyways, no other updates today. At work late and it's starting to snow pretty bad. Hopefully the weather remains true as it's supposed to be in the 50s the next few days! For now here is a shot of my buddy's bike. He was installing a fender eliminating and flush mount front turn signals last night. Looking to get out of this cold weather to take some more photos!



Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I recommend a Franken clutch set up, for even more oem feel and prob slightly cheaper set up..

I used an audi TT RS pressure plate, matched it with TDI clutch disc.

I pieced it together for 500 bucks. It uses the dmf set up so no chatter..

And it's good for about 500 ft tq.. And I currently have about 135k on the clutch I replaced it at 11k and no have 147k..

I can say nothing but good things about it.. pure oem set up straight outa vw parts bin

Real weak point on our clutch is the pressure plate , stock one does a bad job at clamping, the TT -RS clutch had significant improvement over clamping force..


image url
Do you habe part numbers by any chance? Or what model years of ttrs and did you got the parts from?

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^^^^ sent pm
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ok, I took off my intake today to clean it up a little and when I removed the pipe leading to the turbo it came right off without me having to loosen the clamps. I wiped off the oil and reinstalled the intake and made sure to tighten the clamps well. Took her out for a spin after and had a distinct change in performance. Smooth and steady power increase and much louder turbo sound. No clutch slipping on the 91 octane tune. I am going to give her a bath and try out the 93 file.


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