[HEAT]

Hoses came and I keep putting this off. Any day now I am going to run out of excuses. This is going to get sorted.


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[HEAT]

Yesterday I was able to swap out the front hoses. The R32 hoses were significantly longer than the RS4 hoses. Unfortunately the metal hub centric rings didn’t fit well. I think they could still work but will need some machining. So I kept the plastic rings installed. Test drove it and was unable to reproduce the grinding sound. I will update this thread in a few days after driving it some more.


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[HEAT]

I am pretty sure that the brakes are now sorted. More time will tell. I also realized my pictures are crappy. I will post some better pics.


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[almoniyot]

I am pretty sure that the brakes are now sorted. More time will tell. I also realized my pictures are crappy. I will post some better pics.


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Thanks for posting. Shopping for a Q3 or Tiguan and will be one of my mods for sure. Do 17z and 18z both require spacers for wheel/caliper clearance?

 

[HEAT]

Thanks for posting. Shopping for a Q3 or Tiguan and will be one of my mods for sure. Do 17z and 18z both require spacers for wheel/caliper clearance?

A disclaimer, if you do this it is at your own risk. I cannot be held liable for anything that goes wrong. This is a retro fit and I followed a couple of “how tos”.

To answer your question, It depends on the back spacing of your wheel, the offset and also the design. I needed them for mine and the build thread I followed said to use 10mm. I went with H&R 12mm spacers which gave plenty of space with my factory 19”s. Don’t do what I did and try to install them without spacers. I ended up cracking a rotor hat and had to order another new rotor. That is documented in thread.

Just to be clear I installed the 1LE for 17” wheels which is slightly different than the 17z and the 18z. The advantage of using the 1LE is that you don’t have to swap out the little tubes and bleeder screws that span across the bottom and top of the caliper. The 1LE calipers that I used came off of a Touareg, 2011 I think.

The reason I went with the calipers designed for 17” was to leave the option of getting 17” wheels later if I want to reduce the unsprung weight. I am using them with factory 19” wheels. The calipers for 17” wheels are also lighter than the calipers for 18” wheels. Obviously the 330 mm rotors are lighter than the 350mm rotors. The factory brakes that come on the Q3 are plenty strong enough for everyday use. The brembos are not necessary unless your adding a lot of power or weight or track your car.

Recently I had my car in service at Audi and they noted that the caliper does touch the lower control arm when the wheel is turned all the way to one side. I never turn the wheels all the way either direction. So if you do you that you will have contact with your caliper to the lower control arm. They also noted that the brake pad slide pins were unseated and they reseated them. When I installed them they were fully seated so I am curious as to why they backed out a little. Going to have to keep an eye on those. That makes me believe that this kit is not sorted out yet like I thought.

All in all I don’t think I would do it again if I had a choice. I don’t recommend this mod. It was a real pain to refinish and retrofit them. The thing I dislike the most about the mod is that the rotors don’t have a screw hole for the rotor to be secured to the wheel hub.

Please be sure to go through the how to links I followed and be careful. Read the threads and then read them again. If you do decide to do it, go ahead and get the spacers with matching extended lug bolts. The lug bolts need to be longer to fully seat into cavity of the wheel. There are also two types of lug bolt seats; conical and ball. My factory wheels where ball seat. Call the guys at Achtuning and they can help you ensure you are ordering the correct spacers and lug bolts.


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[almoniyot]

A disclaimer, if you do this it is at your own risk. I cannot be held liable for anything that goes wrong. This is a retro fit and I followed a couple of “how tos”.

To answer your question, It depends on the back spacing of your wheel, the offset and also the design. I needed them for mine and the build thread I followed said to use 10mm. I went with H&R 12mm spacers which gave plenty of space with my factory 19”s. Don’t do what I did and try to install them without spacers. I ended up cracking a rotor hat and had to order another new rotor. That is documented in thread.

Just to be clear I installed the 1LE for 17” wheels which is slightly different than the 17z and the 18z. The advantage of using the 1LE is that you don’t have to swap out the little tubes and bleeder screws that span across the bottom and top of the caliper. The 1LE calipers that I used came off of a Touareg, 2011 I think.

The reason I went with the calipers designed for 17” was to leave the option of getting 17” wheels later if I want to reduce the unsprung weight. I am using them with factory 19” wheels. The calipers for 17” wheels are also lighter than the calipers for 18” wheels. Obviously the 330 mm rotors are lighter than the 350mm rotors. The factory brakes that come on the Q3 are plenty strong enough for everyday use. The brembos are not necessary unless your adding a lot of power or weight or track your car.

Recently I had my car in service at Audi and they noted that the caliper does touch the lower control arm when the wheel is turned all the way to one side. I never turn the wheels all the way either direction. So if you do you that you will have contact with your caliper to the lower control arm. They also noted that the brake pad slide pins were unseated and they reseated them. When I installed them they were fully seated so I am curious as to why they backed out a little. Going to have to keep an eye on those. That makes me believe that this kit is not sorted out yet like I thought.

All in all I don’t think I would do it again if I had a choice. I don’t recommend this mod. It was a real pain to refinish and retrofit them. The thing I dislike the most about the mod is that the rotors don’t have a screw hole for the rotor to be secured to the wheel hub.

Please be sure to go through the how to links I followed and be careful. Read the threads and then read them again. If you do decide to do it, go ahead and get the spacers with matching extended lug bolts. The lug bolts need to be longer to fully seat into cavity of the wheel. There are also two types of lug bolt seats; conical and ball. My factory wheels where ball seat. Call the guys at Achtuning and they can help you ensure you are ordering the correct spacers and lug bolts.


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Thanks so much for your honest reply

Planning on doubling the power of the existing engine, so don't feel comfortable w/o a brake upgrade.

Considering Macan/Q5 calipers as well.