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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since we seem to get a ton of inquires that relate to this, here's a thread that we can link back to as a reference. Lots of folks use the term "buffer" rather loosely, but in the auto detailing world where paint correction is involved, any old buffing machine will not do to clean up swirls and scratches. Here's a visual:
This is an example of good random orbital (Porter Cable 7424):

This is an example of a good rotary (Makita 9227):

Those $40 Pep Boys / Wal-Mart / etc. 10" random orbitals are NOT great machines for paint correction:
 

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Re: "Buffer" - is / is not (me)

TY for the post ..always been meaning to do that.... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Actually the 10" ones are really only good for taking your $40. 99% of them end up in the attic with the Stair Master, Thigh Master and the tread mill.


Modified by Jesstzn at 7:13 PM 8-13-2008
 

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Re: "Buffer" - is / is not (tip)

a circular (rotary) can take paint off and thus can correct more severe paint flaws, however the circular motion generates heat which can burn through paint in a matter of seconds if kept on the same spot. (which is why most beginners should avoid using them). Random orbitals such as the 7424 create more of a jiggling motion that generates far less heat, but cannot correct severe paint defects. No buffer will fix chips or anything of that sort.
In short, a random orbital such as the 7424 with the right pad/product combo will suit most people just fine http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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FV-QR

Lets create a visual since math is fun!
Rotary (DeWalt, Makita, etc.)
Spins on one axis. This makes it harder to control on the paint surface because it 'pulls' in the direction the pad spins.
The angular velocity creates higher friction along the outside edge of the pad making cutting into the paint faster (the outside of the pad needs to travel further in 1 RPM than the inside of the pad). Smaller pads make a rotary easier to control but also puts more pressure on a smaller contact patch. The entire contact patch on a single axis is always in motion on the paint, or doing work. Learning to use a rotary properly is a skill that is learned over time.


Random Orbital (PC)
Spins on two axes minimizing pull and, in turn, friction on the paint surface creating a epicycloid pattern.
Only the central axis is driven while the secondary axis follows the path of least resistance. This is why they are safer for less skilled individual because it is practically impossible to burn through paint on a random orbital polisher. If you put 30 pounds of pressure on the machine it will almost 'vibrate' in place as the secondary axis follows the primary axis to keep the pad stationary.

All Random Orbit machines have a very large diameter for the secondary axis compared to the primary axis. The above image just an example.
Another term incorrectly used in detailing machines is 'Dual Action' (myself included). In a Dual action machine, both of the axes are driven. There is not a detailing machine (that I'm aware of) that drives both primary and secondary axes.


Modified by Mechorg at 5:26 PM 8-14-2008
 

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Re: FV-QR (Mechorg)

Quote, originally posted by Mechorg »
Another term incorrectly used in detailing machines is 'Dual Action' (myself included). In a Dual action machine, both of the axes are driven. There is not a detailing machine (that I'm aware of) that drives both primary and secondary axes.
Isn't the Flex a true dual action? It orbits with a forced rotation. I also believe the Makita BO6040 is a orbital with forced rotation.
 

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Re: Guides to Polishing (67Customs)

Quote, originally posted by 67Customs »
To heavy and you don't have very many pad options. Not worth getting in my opinion.

see, i thought the PC i tried felt like some sort of crappy plastic toy IMO. everyone has their own opinion, i just wanted to add it to the list.
no harm, no foul. everyone has their own favorite.
 

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Re: Guides to Polishing (bshertzer)

Quote, originally posted by bshertzer »

see, i thought the PC i tried felt like some sort of crappy plastic toy IMO. everyone has their own opinion, i just wanted to add it to the list.
no harm, no foul. everyone has their own favorite.

it just not may be convenient for many detailers, i agree that the pc does feel a bit cheap, and do not like the side handle, but the meguires looks like a good alternative with plenty of pad/combos for both
 

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Re: Guides to Polishing (SilVamK5)

I don't think the PC falls into the cheap plastic toy catagory .. I've been using mine extensively for 4 years and don't know how many times its been dropped etc and no issues with it in the cheap department.
 

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Re: Guides to Polishing (Jesstzn)

it falls in the category of personal preference i guess. when you compare my cyclo with a pc - there is no comparison. the pc wouldn't be the favorite choice of detailers if it didn't hold up. i was just throwing out another option, not trying to pee on anyones bowl of breakfast cereal
can't we all just get along http://****************.com/smile/emlove.gif

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: Guides to Polishing (bshertzer)

Nothing wrong with the cyclo .. just a little too pricy for me and I'm past the weekend detailer .. good machine tho ..
I have a PC and 3 UDMs and once the last UDM dies .. and it will .. I'll replace it with either the G110 or the Flex once more adapters are available so I can use my current pads on the flex.
 

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Re: Guides to Polishing (67Customs)

Quote, originally posted by 67Customs »
PC with different colors.

I was thinking that until I read the specs on it and its amp rating is the same as the UDM not the PC and users indicate the power is the same as the UDM.
 
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