I was also on this same issue, I changed cluster, then also the error was there... finally I changed Gateway, now the problem is solved as of now, will update if it reoccurs...😅 my vehicle was 2012 Skoda Laura L&K Automatic

 

Hey guys

it’s a simple fix,I regularly get this issue come up when I replace the ignition housings (I’m an auto locksmith) ….solution - With ignition ON just disconnect BOTH battery terminals and touch them together for 15 seconds then reconnect and it’ll clear,then any other faults just turn your wheel all the way to the left,then all the way to the right holding for 1-2 seconds each side and it’ll clear everything. This happens when you’ve disconnected the battery (not always though). You shouldn’t need to replace anything. Of this doesn’t work then you obviously have an actual fault,but that’s pretty uncommon.

Hope this helps

 

Yay, thanks for the tip.......

 

I have the exact problem and it seems most related to temperature. I also found that if I jump it from a bigger car/battery I can almost always get it to start.

I tried replacing the "645" relays behind the headlight switch and just replaced the battery.

If I was to try replacing the Can Bus Gateway, can anyone confirm: 1. Where is the gateway located? 2. Will it require coding even if I'm able to get the exact part number?

Thanks for the help! This whole problem has really tested my Google skills and this thread is the most clear and most directly like my situation, so thank you for all who've contributed.

2013 - Passat SE 2.5i

 

Same with my car were you able to fix !

 

Gateway module !!!!

 

I replaced the gateway module and still having the button for driver assistance error

 

Check battery voltage, more than likely will need to replace battery. Before hooking new battery up , touch + and - terminals together for 10 seconds and then leave terminals unplugged for an hour then hook up battery.

 

I have the same problem. You guys are awesome to get a fix. I have a 2012 tsi 1.4L golf. Please help

 

Make sure it’s the same part number or it won’t work, on some Vw you don’t need to reprogram the gateway module, I didn’t need a reprogram and it’s a VW mk6 2011

 

Did you solve the issue I'm having same problem with my passat tsi 2012

 

Hi there. Today my battery died. I just replaced the battery and this issue appeared for the second time during my ownership of the car. Btw my car is passat 2012 2.5i.

I called my Mechanic friend and with simple instructions i was able to start my car.

I hope this will help someone 🙏

1. Remove negative terminal of battery and touch to the battery 5 to 10 times until you see sparks.
2.once you saw the sparks connect the terminal and try to start the car.
3. If unsuccessful repeat with removing positive terminal and try the same procedure.

Mine worked after 3 rd attempt.

Best luck.

This issue is due to safe lock system of the car. Car system locks itself when certain manual owners procedures for maintenance is not followed.

Thanks

 

I have same issue with my passat tsi 2012 only start when the weather is hot

 

I have same issue with my passat tsi 2012 only start when the weather is

 

Здраво. Имам исти проблем са мојим ВВ-ом? Да ли сте можда решили проблем? Хвала

 

Hey everyone! I couldn't help but notice this post gained a lot of traction and multiple owners having this issue, I was surprised by the fact that I wasn't the only one tbh because it was extremely difficult finding people with this specific problem. I know I'm 2 years almost late to this lmao, but I have the fix to this problem!! I figured it out awhile ago and the car has been great for almost a year now. I used to get a code that said something like "IPC Control Module No Communication". Which is indicating something wrong with the Instrument Cluster, DO NOT TRUST THAT CODE UNTIL AFTER SCANNING ALL MODULES! I took a trip to the dealership and they told me they fixed the issue the next day (all they did was replace tpms sensors lol). after starting the car the same problems persisted with the Instrument Cluster and ultimately was not fixed by the dealership, they quoted me $4400 in repairs after I just spent $2000 in repair cost on a "maybe it'll fix it". Obviously I said hell tf no and went elsewhere. I tried a few mobile mechanics and they couldn't figure out the issue themselves, I ended up learning how to fix it myself. So I learned how to use a VAG-COM based tool (in my case I used a pro plan OBDeleven but you can use VCDS if you'd like/know what you're doing.) Next, I got the car to function temporarily with the battery work around I mentioned earlier in the thread, you NEED to have the car temporarily functional using that workaround for your VAG-COM based device to respond to the car. After getting the car to eventually respond to OBDeleven, I got a series of codes that all indicated No Communication Between Modules. (Almost all modules [Brakes, Engine, Transmission, Central Electrics, Airbag, Air Conditioning, etc.] had a No Comms Code of Some Sort) After hours on hours of researching (because i was just some 17 yr old and not a mechanic or vw tech to any degree). I ended up diagnosing the issue as a bad CAN Gateway Module. Now before the next step, you are going to need to screenshot / write down all of your "GATEWAY LIST CODING" in other words your cars exact electronic hardware features, there will be a pencil icon on the obdeleven app in the control units section (they'll look like check boxes in the obdeleven app or the "CAN BUS GATEWAY" tab in VCDS) to replicate your exact gateway settings to a new or used replacement gateway module. Now come to find out, VW loves to change the spot of some modules in their cars on slightly different feature packages of the same car (Stupid I know, but necessary to VW I guess). But in my case I have a B7 2012 NMS Passat SE A32 Saloon 2.5l W/ Sunroof (yes that matters) and the gateway was located underneath the steering wheel / directly above the gas pedal, past the plastic trim cover. My gateway, to my car model in particular was a 7N0 907 530P, now if you're going to buy a replacement, beware of many various stipulations. If you're buying a new gateway from VW, I recommend calling the parts department at your local VW and running your specific VIN with them because some gateways to older vehicles have been updated to newer hardware numbers, just ask them for the part number to your car or just purchase it with them over the phone. Now if you're buying a used replacement gateway (like how I did off ebay), I recommend buying a gateway with the EXACT hardware numbers and software version your current gateway has to make things easy. *ONLY if you're skilled in retrofitting and know what you're doing, then experiment with different gateways if you'd like. [you may lose/add functionality to certain features in your car] After you have your replacement and all your coding info from your old gateway (that you screenshotted / wrote down earlier), you are going to want to unhinge your battery from the terminals and proceed to install your new gateway module. Then after install, you'll reconnect the battery and plug in your VAG-COM device to your OBD2 port again and make your way back to the "GATEWAY LIST CODING", from this point you will take all the settings that were checked on obdeleven/vcds and apply them accurately to the new gateway. (BEWARE IF YOU BOUGHT A USED GATEWAY, THERE WILL BE BOXES ALREADY CHECKED FROM THE PREVIOUS CAR IT CAME FROM, UNCHECK ALL BOXES THAT WERE NOT PREVIOUSLY CHECKED ON YOUR OLD GATEWAY) After that's all said and done, you will apply these settings and take your keys out of ignition. Let the car sit for 3 minutes or so to be safe and then turn the car back on and everything should be working again!! I would clear ALL "No Communications" Codes in each module using the obdeleven/vcds tool after you're done.

This took me a very long time to figure out myself and I'd hate to see someone struggle with the problems I had, from my belief, I'm sure the gateway had water damage to a degree or a solder joint was loose on the chipset. I disturbingly discovered the sunroof was on backwards somehow from the previous owner and the drains were clogged, so it explained the humidity problem when i had it. I bought the car used as my first vehicle and let me tell you, electrical problems can be confusing as hell if you don't know what you're doing, especially VW vehicles. I will most definitely say that I'm a diehard VW guy now that I can diagnose things and understand what certain codes mean to a degree.

Also! If you're still having problems after this with the "IPC Control Panel Lost Communication" Code after this, it may actually be a defective cluster (MAKE SURE ITS YOUR ONLY MODULE THAT LOST COMMS WITH THE VEHICLE). I cloned/replaced mine for good measure by buying a used one on ebay with the same hardware numbers and shipped it up to this place in PA to be cloned from my original. This is their website: Instrument Cluster Store | Instrument Cluster Replacement & Repair
It was like $120 for the used cluster and $300 for the cloning service. This wasn't necessary for me but as i said I did it for good measure. I could've realistically fixed my car for $230, but hey $600 ain't bad compared to $4400 on a "maybe".

I really hope me saying all this helps! Good Luck.

 

Thank you immensely for this info! I caved and brought mine into the dealer, and they're saying I need a new instrument panel cluster altogether, running about $2200.

To break down my issue, mine only has this issue in the cold weather, 45 degrees and below. After about 15 minutes, the colder it is then the more time it takes, then it starts just fine (mechanically) and is good through the rest of the day as long as I don't leave it outside for too long. Once it starts, though, then that's when I get the button for driver assistance system defective message, along with all of the lights on the dash turning on like a Christmas tree and the speedometer & RPM gauge zeroing out, and the gas gauge going up and down back and forth. This will all go back to normal after about 15 minutes of driving.

To go back to the dealer issue, they're trying to do the whole IPC replacement and I'm simply not trying to spend $2k+ on it. They're also confused when I tell them that it could just be the can gateway module, and I don't know whether to take their advice and replace the whole thing or stand my ground and try replacing just the module.

Also, do you know how I would find the part number for my can bus gateway module?

Any and all advice is appreciated!

 

hello please did you sort the issues

Hey everyone! I couldn't help but notice this post gained a lot of traction and multiple owners having this issue, I was surprised by the fact that I wasn't the only one tbh because it was extremely difficult finding people with this specific problem. I know I'm 2 years almost late to this lmao, but I have the fix to this problem!! I figured it out awhile ago and the car has been great for almost a year now. I used to get a code that said something like "IPC Control Module No Communication". Which is indicating something wrong with the Instrument Cluster, DO NOT TRUST THAT CODE UNTIL AFTER SCANNING ALL MODULES! I took a trip to the dealership and they told me they fixed the issue the next day (all they did was replace tpms sensors lol). after starting the car the same problems persisted with the Instrument Cluster and ultimately was not fixed by the dealership, they quoted me $4400 in repairs after I just spent $2000 in repair cost on a "maybe it'll fix it". Obviously I said hell tf no and went elsewhere. I tried a few mobile mechanics and they couldn't figure out the issue themselves, I ended up learning how to fix it myself. So I learned how to use a VAG-COM based tool (in my case I used a pro plan OBDeleven but you can use VCDS if you'd like/know what you're doing.) Next, I got the car to function temporarily with the battery work around I mentioned earlier in the thread, you NEED to have the car temporarily functional using that workaround for your VAG-COM based device to respond to the car. After getting the car to eventually respond to OBDeleven, I got a series of codes that all indicated No Communication Between Modules. (Almost all modules [Brakes, Engine, Transmission, Central Electrics, Airbag, Air Conditioning, etc.] had a No Comms Code of Some Sort) After hours on hours of researching (because i was just some 17 yr old and not a mechanic or vw tech to any degree). I ended up diagnosing the issue as a bad CAN Gateway Module. Now before the next step, you are going to need to screenshot / write down all of your "GATEWAY LIST CODING" in other words your cars exact electronic hardware features, there will be a pencil icon on the obdeleven app in the control units section (they'll look like check boxes in the obdeleven app or the "CAN BUS GATEWAY" tab in VCDS) to replicate your exact gateway settings to a new or used replacement gateway module. Now come to find out, VW loves to change the spot of some modules in their cars on slightly different feature packages of the same car (Stupid I know, but necessary to VW I guess). But in my case I have a B7 2012 NMS Passat SE A32 Saloon 2.5l W/ Sunroof (yes that matters) and the gateway was located underneath the steering wheel / directly above the gas pedal, past the plastic trim cover. My gateway, to my car model in particular was a 7N0 907 530P, now if you're going to buy a replacement, beware of many various stipulations. If you're buying a new gateway from VW, I recommend calling the parts department at your local VW and running your specific VIN with them because some gateways to older vehicles have been updated to newer hardware numbers, just ask them for the part number to your car or just purchase it with them over the phone. Now if you're buying a used replacement gateway (like how I did off ebay), I recommend buying a gateway with the EXACT hardware numbers and software version your current gateway has to make things easy. *ONLY if you're skilled in retrofitting and know what you're doing, then experiment with different gateways if you'd like. [you may lose/add functionality to certain features in your car] After you have your replacement and all your coding info from your old gateway (that you screenshotted / wrote down earlier), you are going to want to unhinge your battery from the terminals and proceed to install your new gateway module. Then after install, you'll reconnect the battery and plug in your VAG-COM device to your OBD2 port again and make your way back to the "GATEWAY LIST CODING", from this point you will take all the settings that were checked on obdeleven/vcds and apply them accurately to the new gateway. (BEWARE IF YOU BOUGHT A USED GATEWAY, THERE WILL BE BOXES ALREADY CHECKED FROM THE PREVIOUS CAR IT CAME FROM, UNCHECK ALL BOXES THAT WERE NOT PREVIOUSLY CHECKED ON YOUR OLD GATEWAY) After that's all said and done, you will apply these settings and take your keys out of ignition. Let the car sit for 3 minutes or so to be safe and then turn the car back on and everything should be working again!! I would clear ALL "No Communications" Codes in each module using the obdeleven/vcds tool after you're done.

This took me a very long time to figure out myself and I'd hate to see someone struggle with the problems I had, from my belief, I'm sure the gateway had water damage to a degree or a solder joint was loose on the chipset. I disturbingly discovered the sunroof was on backwards somehow from the previous owner and the drains were clogged, so it explained the humidity problem when i had it. I bought the car used as my first vehicle and let me tell you, electrical problems can be confusing as hell if you don't know what you're doing, especially VW vehicles. I will most definitely say that I'm a diehard VW guy now that I can diagnose things and understand what certain codes mean to a degree.

Also! If you're still having problems after this with the "IPC Control Panel Lost Communication" Code after this, it may actually be a defective cluster (MAKE SURE ITS YOUR ONLY MODULE THAT LOST COMMS WITH THE VEHICLE). I cloned/replaced mine for good measure by buying a used one on ebay with the same hardware numbers and shipped it up to this place in PA to be cloned from my original. This is their website: Instrument Cluster Store | Instrument Cluster Replacement & Repair
It was like $120 for the used cluster and $300 for the cloning service. This wasn't necessary for me but as i said I did it for good measure. I could've realistically fixed my car for $230, but hey $600 ain't bad compared to $4400 on a "maybe".

I really hope me saying all this helps! Good Luck.

 

I have same issue with my passat tsi 2012 only start when the weather is

Hey everyone! I couldn't help but notice this post gained a lot of traction and multiple owners having this issue, I was surprised by the fact that I wasn't the only one tbh because it was extremely difficult finding people with this specific problem. I know I'm 2 years almost late to this lmao, but I have the fix to this problem!! I figured it out awhile ago and the car has been great for almost a year now. I used to get a code that said something like "IPC Control Module No Communication". Which is indicating something wrong with the Instrument Cluster, DO NOT TRUST THAT CODE UNTIL AFTER SCANNING ALL MODULES! I took a trip to the dealership and they told me they fixed the issue the next day (all they did was replace tpms sensors lol). after starting the car the same problems persisted with the Instrument Cluster and ultimately was not fixed by the dealership, they quoted me $4400 in repairs after I just spent $2000 in repair cost on a "maybe it'll fix it". Obviously I said hell tf no and went elsewhere. I tried a few mobile mechanics and they couldn't figure out the issue themselves, I ended up learning how to fix it myself. So I learned how to use a VAG-COM based tool (in my case I used a pro plan OBDeleven but you can use VCDS if you'd like/know what you're doing.) Next, I got the car to function temporarily with the battery work around I mentioned earlier in the thread, you NEED to have the car temporarily functional using that workaround for your VAG-COM based device to respond to the car. After getting the car to eventually respond to OBDeleven, I got a series of codes that all indicated No Communication Between Modules. (Almost all modules [Brakes, Engine, Transmission, Central Electrics, Airbag, Air Conditioning, etc.] had a No Comms Code of Some Sort) After hours on hours of researching (because i was just some 17 yr old and not a mechanic or vw tech to any degree). I ended up diagnosing the issue as a bad CAN Gateway Module. Now before the next step, you are going to need to screenshot / write down all of your "GATEWAY LIST CODING" in other words your cars exact electronic hardware features, there will be a pencil icon on the obdeleven app in the control units section (they'll look like check boxes in the obdeleven app or the "CAN BUS GATEWAY" tab in VCDS) to replicate your exact gateway settings to a new or used replacement gateway module. Now come to find out, VW loves to change the spot of some modules in their cars on slightly different feature packages of the same car (Stupid I know, but necessary to VW I guess). But in my case I have a B7 2012 NMS Passat SE A32 Saloon 2.5l W/ Sunroof (yes that matters) and the gateway was located underneath the steering wheel / directly above the gas pedal, past the plastic trim cover. My gateway, to my car model in particular was a 7N0 907 530P, now if you're going to buy a replacement, beware of many various stipulations. If you're buying a new gateway from VW, I recommend calling the parts department at your local VW and running your specific VIN with them because some gateways to older vehicles have been updated to newer hardware numbers, just ask them for the part number to your car or just purchase it with them over the phone. Now if you're buying a used replacement gateway (like how I did off ebay), I recommend buying a gateway with the EXACT hardware numbers and software version your current gateway has to make things easy. *ONLY if you're skilled in retrofitting and know what you're doing, then experiment with different gateways if you'd like. [you may lose/add functionality to certain features in your car] After you have your replacement and all your coding info from your old gateway (that you screenshotted / wrote down earlier), you are going to want to unhinge your battery from the terminals and proceed to install your new gateway module. Then after install, you'll reconnect the battery and plug in your VAG-COM device to your OBD2 port again and make your way back to the "GATEWAY LIST CODING", from this point you will take all the settings that were checked on obdeleven/vcds and apply them accurately to the new gateway. (BEWARE IF YOU BOUGHT A USED GATEWAY, THERE WILL BE BOXES ALREADY CHECKED FROM THE PREVIOUS CAR IT CAME FROM, UNCHECK ALL BOXES THAT WERE NOT PREVIOUSLY CHECKED ON YOUR OLD GATEWAY) After that's all said and done, you will apply these settings and take your keys out of ignition. Let the car sit for 3 minutes or so to be safe and then turn the car back on and everything should be working again!! I would clear ALL "No Communications" Codes in each module using the obdeleven/vcds tool after you're done.

This took me a very long time to figure out myself and I'd hate to see someone struggle with the problems I had, from my belief, I'm sure the gateway had water damage to a degree or a solder joint was loose on the chipset. I disturbingly discovered the sunroof was on backwards somehow from the previous owner and the drains were clogged, so it explained the humidity problem when i had it. I bought the car used as my first vehicle and let me tell you, electrical problems can be confusing as hell if you don't know what you're doing, especially VW vehicles. I will most definitely say that I'm a diehard VW guy now that I can diagnose things and understand what certain codes mean to a degree.

Also! If you're still having problems after this with the "IPC Control Panel Lost Communication" Code after this, it may actually be a defective cluster (MAKE SURE ITS YOUR ONLY MODULE THAT LOST COMMS WITH THE VEHICLE). I cloned/replaced mine for good measure by buying a used one on ebay with the same hardware numbers and shipped it up to this place in PA to be cloned from my original. This is their website: Instrument Cluster Store | Instrument Cluster Replacement & Repair
It was like $120 for the used cluster and $300 for the cloning service. This wasn't necessary for me but as i said I did it for good measure. I could've realistically fixed my car for $230, but hey $600 ain't bad compared to $4400 on a "maybe".

I really hope me saying all this helps! Good Luck.

 

I replaced the gateway module and still having the button for driver assistance error

Hey everyone! I couldn't help but notice this post gained a lot of traction and multiple owners having this issue, I was surprised by the fact that I wasn't the only one tbh because it was extremely difficult finding people with this specific problem. I know I'm 2 years almost late to this lmao, but I have the fix to this problem!! I figured it out awhile ago and the car has been great for almost a year now. I used to get a code that said something like "IPC Control Module No Communication". Which is indicating something wrong with the Instrument Cluster, DO NOT TRUST THAT CODE UNTIL AFTER SCANNING ALL MODULES! I took a trip to the dealership and they told me they fixed the issue the next day (all they did was replace tpms sensors lol). after starting the car the same problems persisted with the Instrument Cluster and ultimately was not fixed by the dealership, they quoted me $4400 in repairs after I just spent $2000 in repair cost on a "maybe it'll fix it". Obviously I said hell tf no and went elsewhere. I tried a few mobile mechanics and they couldn't figure out the issue themselves, I ended up learning how to fix it myself. So I learned how to use a VAG-COM based tool (in my case I used a pro plan OBDeleven but you can use VCDS if you'd like/know what you're doing.) Next, I got the car to function temporarily with the battery work around I mentioned earlier in the thread, you NEED to have the car temporarily functional using that workaround for your VAG-COM based device to respond to the car. After getting the car to eventually respond to OBDeleven, I got a series of codes that all indicated No Communication Between Modules. (Almost all modules [Brakes, Engine, Transmission, Central Electrics, Airbag, Air Conditioning, etc.] had a No Comms Code of Some Sort) After hours on hours of researching (because i was just some 17 yr old and not a mechanic or vw tech to any degree). I ended up diagnosing the issue as a bad CAN Gateway Module. Now before the next step, you are going to need to screenshot / write down all of your "GATEWAY LIST CODING" in other words your cars exact electronic hardware features, there will be a pencil icon on the obdeleven app in the control units section (they'll look like check boxes in the obdeleven app or the "CAN BUS GATEWAY" tab in VCDS) to replicate your exact gateway settings to a new or used replacement gateway module. Now come to find out, VW loves to change the spot of some modules in their cars on slightly different feature packages of the same car (Stupid I know, but necessary to VW I guess). But in my case I have a B7 2012 NMS Passat SE A32 Saloon 2.5l W/ Sunroof (yes that matters) and the gateway was located underneath the steering wheel / directly above the gas pedal, past the plastic trim cover. My gateway, to my car model in particular was a 7N0 907 530P, now if you're going to buy a replacement, beware of many various stipulations. If you're buying a new gateway from VW, I recommend calling the parts department at your local VW and running your specific VIN with them because some gateways to older vehicles have been updated to newer hardware numbers, just ask them for the part number to your car or just purchase it with them over the phone. Now if you're buying a used replacement gateway (like how I did off ebay), I recommend buying a gateway with the EXACT hardware numbers and software version your current gateway has to make things easy. *ONLY if you're skilled in retrofitting and know what you're doing, then experiment with different gateways if you'd like. [you may lose/add functionality to certain features in your car] After you have your replacement and all your coding info from your old gateway (that you screenshotted / wrote down earlier), you are going to want to unhinge your battery from the terminals and proceed to install your new gateway module. Then after install, you'll reconnect the battery and plug in your VAG-COM device to your OBD2 port again and make your way back to the "GATEWAY LIST CODING", from this point you will take all the settings that were checked on obdeleven/vcds and apply them accurately to the new gateway. (BEWARE IF YOU BOUGHT A USED GATEWAY, THERE WILL BE BOXES ALREADY CHECKED FROM THE PREVIOUS CAR IT CAME FROM, UNCHECK ALL BOXES THAT WERE NOT PREVIOUSLY CHECKED ON YOUR OLD GATEWAY) After that's all said and done, you will apply these settings and take your keys out of ignition. Let the car sit for 3 minutes or so to be safe and then turn the car back on and everything should be working again!! I would clear ALL "No Communications" Codes in each module using the obdeleven/vcds tool after you're done.

This took me a very long time to figure out myself and I'd hate to see someone struggle with the problems I had, from my belief, I'm sure the gateway had water damage to a degree or a solder joint was loose on the chipset. I disturbingly discovered the sunroof was on backwards somehow from the previous owner and the drains were clogged, so it explained the humidity problem when i had it. I bought the car used as my first vehicle and let me tell you, electrical problems can be confusing as hell if you don't know what you're doing, especially VW vehicles. I will most definitely say that I'm a diehard VW guy now that I can diagnose things and understand what certain codes mean to a degree.

Also! If you're still having problems after this with the "IPC Control Panel Lost Communication" Code after this, it may actually be a defective cluster (MAKE SURE ITS YOUR ONLY MODULE THAT LOST COMMS WITH THE VEHICLE). I cloned/replaced mine for good measure by buying a used one on ebay with the same hardware numbers and shipped it up to this place in PA to be cloned from my original. This is their website: Instrument Cluster Store | Instrument Cluster Replacement & Repair
It was like $120 for the used cluster and $300 for the cloning service. This wasn't necessary for me but as i said I did it for good measure. I could've realistically fixed my car for $230, but hey $600 ain't bad compared to $4400 on a "maybe".

I really hope me saying all this helps! Good Luck.

 

Use your spare car key or change the key battery to fix this problem !
A bad transponder inside your car key results in symptoms which make it difficulty starting the car. If the key is not turning in the ignition or the engine cranks but doesn’t start, it could indicate a problem with the transponder key. This can happen when the key’s chip is not correctly communicating with the car’s immobilizer system.

 

Здраво. Имам исти проблем са мојим ВВ-ом? Да ли сте можда решили проблем? Хвала

 

Hi there. Today my battery died. I just replaced the battery and this issue appeared for the second time during my ownership of the car. Btw my car is passat 2012 2.5i.

I called my Mechanic friend and with simple instructions i was able to start my car.

I hope this will help someone 🙏

1. Remove negative terminal of battery and touch to the battery 5 to 10 times until you see sparks.
2.once you saw the sparks connect the terminal and try to start the car.
3. If unsuccessful repeat with removing positive terminal and try the same procedure.

Mine worked after 3 rd attempt.

Best luck.

This issue is due to safe lock system of the car. Car system locks itself when certain manual owners procedures for maintenance is not followed.

Thanks

 

I got the same problem first time i took out all battery cables after 8 hours i put it back it worked but now the same thing happened again but I don’t know what is the problem of the car for doing these shts

 

hey check page 3 for my response, i wrote a long detailed response on how to diagnose and fix this issue, mine ended up being a water damaged gateway module, i ended up fixing and recoding it all myself with an obdeleven pro tool, but you can use VCDS if you have it

 

Can ypu please send me a link to the OBDeleven that you used?

 

this one: https://a.co/d/ivWckef

 

I have blown the fuse on the cigarette lighter on my 2015 tiguan r line. Have now replaced the 20 amp fuse but now got the fault code driver assistant button does not work a engine cuts out after starting any one have any idea?
Cheers John

 

Does your obd2 still work

 

here's a step-by-step guide for the process you described:

1. Insert the key into the ignition and turn it halfway to turn on the electrical system of the car.
2. While the car's electrical system is on, carefully disconnect the instrument cluster.
3. Turn the car off by turning the key back to the off position.
4. Turn the car back on with the key, keeping the instrument cluster unplugged.
5. Reconnect the instrument cluster while the electrical system is still running.
6. Turn the car off again by removing the key from the ignition.
7. Insert the key back into the ignition and start the car fully.

This sequence should help reset the instrument cluster and fix the issue.

 

This helped turn my car (2012 Volkswagen Golf) the instrument cluster was able to come out with the video in the beggining of this forum.
https://www.myturbodiesel.com/d2/10...t-cluster-removal.htm#:~:text=Remove the two T20 screws,the back of the cluster. (This link also helped me.

 

For what car you fix

 

Hi there. Today my battery died. I just replaced the battery and this issue appeared for the second time during my ownership of the car. Btw my car is passat 2012 2.5i.

I called my Mechanic friend and with simple instructions i was able to start my car.

I hope this will help someone 🙏

1. Remove negative terminal of battery and touch to the battery 5 to 10 times until you see sparks.
2.once you saw the sparks connect the terminal and try to start the car.
3. If unsuccessful repeat with removing positive terminal and try the same procedure.

Mine worked after 3 rd attempt.

Best luck.

This issue is due to safe lock system of the car. Car system locks itself when certain manual owners procedures for maintenance is not followed.

Thanks

 

Sorry for jumping in on your post but I have a very similar problem with my 2012 mk6 Golf GTD. same message with the Driver Assistance System before I get a Error: Brakes Workshop! Message. The engine will start but only run for a second at the most before three bleeps are given. Also the indicators aren't working either. My OBD reader isn't able to communicate with the ECU, is this also part of the issue? If it's the Ran Bus Gateway that's at fault would this prevent communication with the ECU?

 

Hi there. Today my battery died. I just replaced the battery and this issue appeared for the second time during my ownership of the car. Btw my car is passat 2012 2.5i.

I called my Mechanic friend and with simple instructions i was able to start my car.

I hope this will help someone 🙏

1. Remove negative terminal of battery and touch to the battery 5 to 10 times until you see sparks.
2.once you saw the sparks connect the terminal and try to start the car.
3. If unsuccessful repeat with removing positive terminal and try the same procedure.

Mine worked after 3 rd attempt.

Best luck.

This issue is due to safe lock system of the car. Car system locks itself when certain manual owners procedures for maintenance is not followed.

Thanks

 

Just remove the negative terminal, tap it back on 03 or 04 times, and then bolt it back on, you should be good to go

 

can you explain more about touch positive and negative sir

 

Ignition off. Remove the battery terminals. Connect first positive terminal cable to the battery. With negative terminal cable touch the negative battery head 5 to 10 times until you see sparks rhsn connect the negative terminal and try to start the car. Repeat the process until your car starts.