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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just finished road testing my car after bypassing the N249, in a much more direct and "clean" method than some of the ones I've seen suggested. It works great, partial throttle is MUCH smoother and predictable - no jerky boost.
All I did was this:
1. Trace the path of the top (actuator) hose from the DV. It goes to a metal tube that runs along the block, then to another rubber hose, then underneath the intake manifold to the N249.
2. Remove the hose that connects the tube to the N249, at the side closer to the N249. There is a reusable clamp, just pinch it with pliers and pull the tube off.
3. Cap the tube to the N249 with a rubber hose cap (available at Auotzone, etc.) and clamp it on there with a hose clamp.
4. Tapinto the FPR vacuum/boost line, which is RIGHT NEXT to the hose you just disconnected. It's the thinner braided hose that goes to the FPR.
5. Using a 3/16" x 3/16" x 3/16" T fitting, connect the newly disconnected N249 hose to the T.
Voila. Instant, clean bypass. Works like a charm, looks stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Re: Bypassing the N249 - An Easier Approach (dbrowne1)

All you need to do this is:
1. 2 hose clamps
2. 3/16" T fitting (plastic works fine)
3. 5/16" rubber cap
 

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Re: Bypassing the N249 - An Easier Approach (Seanathan)

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
I Just did it this way myself. Except I tee'd into the other Vac line right next to the FPR line on the underside of the manifold. I already tee'd the FPR line once for my boost gauge. Also, I used a ss bolt to plug the hose instead of capping it at the N249. Boost is much more predictable at part throttle.
 

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Re: Bypassing the N249 - An Easier Approach (enginerd)

Quote, originally posted by enginerd »
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
I Just did it this way myself. Except I tee'd into the other Vac line right next to the FPR line on the underside of the manifold. I already tee'd the FPR line once for my boost gauge. Also, I used a ss bolt to plug the hose instead of capping it at the N249. Boost is much more predictable at part throttle.
i took this route as well... works just fine http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: Bypassing the N249 - An Easier Approach (turbovw18)

I did it a more ghetto, easy way. The black vaccum box on the valve cover....... i unbolted it, and followed that line to where its plugged. Pulled that hose, and just put a cap over the tube where the line went to. Works fine for me.
 

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Is this another possible solution to upgrading the N75 when surging is a problem? I'm still learning about my motor and saving for a VAG-COM setup so I don't want to do anything that will throw codes or cause more problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: Bypassing the N249 - An Easier Approach (1.8tizzle)

Quote, originally posted by 1.8tizzle »
I did it a more ghetto, easy way. The black vaccum box on the valve cover....... i unbolted it, and followed that line to where its plugged. Pulled that hose, and just put a cap over the tube where the line went to. Works fine for me.

This doesn't actually bypass the N249 - the electronic valve still mediates what the DV sees. It helps because the valve can no longer introduce vacuum to the mix.
What I did is plug the DV directly into the intake manifold. The DV now sees exactly what is in the manifold, there's nothing inbetween.
There may not be any practical difference - but I like knowing that the DV actuation is directly from the manifold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Re: (Mk4Jettaboy)

Quote, originally posted by Mk4Jettaboy »
My car surges also, im running garrett software. It only surges at WOT in a high gear. Is this a remidy for my problem, Sorry im not the smartest at engines

Try bypassing the N249 as I suggested. It may help, it may not, but it's a very cheap mod that you should do regardless.
 

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Re: Bypassing the N249 - An Easier Approach (dbrowne1)

Quote, originally posted by dbrowne1 »

This doesn't actually bypass the N249 - the electronic valve still mediates what the DV sees. It helps because the valve can no longer introduce vacuum to the mix.
What I did is plug the DV directly into the intake manifold. The DV now sees exactly what is in the manifold, there's nothing inbetween.
There may not be any practical difference - but I like knowing that the DV actuation is directly from the manifold.

I did this and now have severe fluttering of my hyperboost DV. Cleaned and lubed it and that didn't help. I believe that the n249 also serves to assist in slamming the DV open as fast as possible via the extra vac in the black canister. I was not having any problems with the N249 opening the DV when I didn't want it to so I may be putting the canister back on and reconnecting everthing in a stock manner.
 

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Re: Bypassing the N249 - An Easier Approach (GTIMOLA)

Quote, originally posted by GTIMOLA »

I did this and now have severe fluttering of my hyperboost DV. Cleaned and lubed it and that didn't help. I believe that the n249 also serves to assist in slamming the DV open as fast as possible via the extra vac in the black canister. I was not having any problems with the N249 opening the DV when I didn't want it to so I may be putting the canister back on and reconnecting everthing in a stock manner.

The problem here is your hyperboost DV and too stiff of a spring. With a Forge valve, mine does the same thing. With the stock valve it works like a champ.
Have you tried reversing your DV?
 

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Re: Bypassing the N249 - An Easier Approach (dbrowne1)

Is the sole purpose to eliminate surging or fluttering at high boost levels (>15 psi)?
 

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Re: Bypassing the N249 - An Easier Approach (SlvrBllt)

I figured that this was the problem. Unfortunately, the stock dv failed and I would really like to use the Hyperboost. I wonder if there is a way that I could modify the current spring or get a softer spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Re: Bypassing the N249 - An Easier Approach (GTIMOLA)

Quote, originally posted by GTIMOLA »

I did this and now have severe fluttering of my hyperboost DV. Cleaned and lubed it and that didn't help. I believe that the n249 also serves to assist in slamming the DV open as fast as possible via the extra vac in the black canister. I was not having any problems with the N249 opening the DV when I didn't want it to so I may be putting the canister back on and reconnecting everthing in a stock manner.

I have an older Forge 006 valve (it's almost 4 years old) and it works fine with the bypassed setup. Zero flutter. I'm holding 25-27psi in the lower rpms, 20psi at 5K, using an MBC.
If you had better performance with the N249/vac cannister then by all means go back to using it. Results are what matter. One thing that's nice about the setup I suggest is that it is easily reversible. The only "permanent" change is cutting the fpr line, and that's easily fixed with a plug on the T or a plastic hose connector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Re: Bypassing the N249 - An Easier Approach (JettaRed)

Quote, originally posted by JettaRed »
Is the sole purpose to eliminate surging or fluttering at high boost levels (>15 psi)?

Main purpose is to reduce flutter and resulting jerky boost at partial throttle, between 0 and 5psi of boost, where the N249 seems to get confused and can make your throttle very sensitive and jerky. It worked well for me.
 

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Re: Bypassing the N249 - An Easier Approach (dbrowne1)

It amazes me how every car is soooo different.
 

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Re: Bypassing the N249 - An Easier Approach (hugemikeyd)

I looked at my car an '02 Jetta and the small braided line goes to the Combi valve not the FPR. So my question is, did you actually tap into the FPR line which is braided also and very short or the line feeding the Combi valve, also braided, but longer and right next to the line that feeds the N249 valve.
 
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