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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The subject here is my 1983 Rabbit Gti which used to have a Callaway Stage II kit in it. The original owner moved from NY to CA and had it removed in 1985 at New Dimensions. I wanted the whole package when it went up for sale in 2001. I missed out on the car but got the Callaway parts. I installed them on a 1984 Rabbit Gti in 2003.
In 2004, the Gti that you see here (that I missed out on) went up for sale. I was still obsessed about it so I bought it and had it shipped from San Jose, CA to Lexington, MA. Ever since I bought it, I always wanted to get a Callaway turbo kit back in it like it had before it went to CA in 1984. So finally, my friend Bill and I, who have three Callaway turbo installs between us, got started on it this past weekend.

Rebuilt Roto-Master TO4B completed by Blaylock Turbo in Kansas. This instruction manual was used as a reference in my first install on my 1984 Rabbit Gti several years ago.

Twenty five years without the turbo. It is only fitting that a turbo goes back in.

The back of the motor after the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and axle removed. Note the drain plug tapped into the block that has been sealed off since 1985.

This is most of the Stage I Callaway kit to be installed. The heart of the kit is below.

This is a quick shot of a test fit of the turbo to clock it properly. Note the stamp of "Callaway Cars" on the exhaust manifold. In addition, a used (torn) heat shield will protect the brake line from the heat of the turbo, mounted on the firewall.

Here is a shot from below to show the oil drain from the turbo to block. Note the bracket to help support the turbo once the header pipe is installed.

This is what you get when you install an aftermarket, enlarged throttle body onto a A1/Mk1 intake manifold. Note the restriction once the butterflies are opened. This will be taken care of real soon. Stay tuned as Bill is going to work his magic and create a 2.5" downpipe.
Stay tuned.
Thanks,
Jim
 

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Re: Callaway Turbo installation thread (Rage In The Machines)

Definatly subscribed!
A GTI and a Callaway manual started it all for me maybe 10yrs ago now. I never scored the Callaway setup but I now have one bad @$$ little bunny and a small company building and tuning these cars! I love it!
 

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Re: Callaway Turbo installation thread (jpawl)

I love the story and the photos.
My '83 GTI still has it's stage II that was installed in 1984!
Keep the updates coming. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Bill and I have had some time over the past few weekends to clean up a few items and sort out the small stuff. You will be surprised how much time it takes to sort out the small things. I want to take care of anything that might be a weak point down the road.


Below are some pictures from a few weekends ago.


Bill tackled the sandblasting on the Callaway pipe and intake manifold. The end result is worth it.


This came out very nice. No more grease and grime. :)


In addition, the intake manifold came out spotless as well. Note the porting at the throttle body end of the manifold.


This is a closeup of the porting. A decent amount of aluminum was cleared out to match up with throttle body ports.


According to the receipts from the previous owner, this should be a 1.6 liter cam. New studs and a rubber valve cover gasket were laid down to cushion a Callaway valve cover.


The motor dropped down a bit to remove the motor mounts on the drivers side and passenger side. Each mount was in great shape so I did not bother replacing them with the HD mounts I had on hand. Lining up the mounts later to get each bolt in is quite the challenge. I am sure some of you know what I am talking about. :mad: At any rate, a new timing belt and tensioner were installed. In addition, all mechanical timing marks were lined up correctly - crank pulley, cam gear, while cyl 1 was up at TDC.


Here is a picture of the relay shaft and the missing bushing at the top of it. This picture is taken from underneath. I used Teflon bushings as replacements. They should hold up well to the heat radiating from the turbo. While each axle was out, each drive flange seal was replaced.


As of now, I am waiting for some G11 coolant and Redline MTL gear oil so we can fill up the engine with new fluids. The next step is to button up the bay and then begin manufacturing the down pipe with some stainless 2.5" stock. We can't replace the passenger side axle, which received two new CV boot kits, until the downpipe is finished and installed.

Jim
 

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Awesome, looking good. Im sure your thread will help me whenever I get around to working on my Jetta and I can't wait to get my Callaway installed too. Matter a fact I just bought a 10 gallon Sandblaster to :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
This past Saturday was all about getting a new down pipe made out of stainless steel stock to maintain a 2.5" diameter from the outlet of the turbo all the way to the tail pipe. Bill put his welding and fabrication skills to work :bow:before I could turn on the camera.



Because I had an original downpipe, a jig was made. Don't under estimate the time and effort needed to lay one out as this is the ground work for the new down pipe.



This shows the side by side down pipes together. Note the end of the new stainless down pipe still has not been cut down. Two pieces of stainless 2.5" stock were cut, and tacked to make the what you see here. Bill worked from the top down starting with bolting the flange into the jig. A 180 degree pipe was cut to make the top from the flange (picture the letter "U") down to the just above the J-bend into the horizontal axis. The key is to measure twice, cut once! Note the 4" flex braid (w/internal bellows) on the left hand side of the bench. This will be welded on the end of the down pipe. A three bolt flange will finish it off at a later date when we call it a finished product.



Another comparison of the two. Part of the quality control process requires a test fit in the actual car. You can see the TIG tack welds at the flange and at the 90 degree bend.



Here we test fitted the down pipe to ensure proper clearance in the engine bay. We are pondering the option not to dump the wastegate gases that are expended back into the down pipe. We have R&D looking into that over a cup of coffee. :rolleyes:



The proper clearance is especially key down here as it approaches and enters the tunnel. We have about .5" of clearance toward the closest object which is the bracket for the steering rack. Because there is minimal shifting of the motor from east to west, all should be good unless I am doing a track day or autocrossing.



The input rod bushing was replaced with this teflon (white) unit from MissingLinkz. This tightened up the shifter feel significantly.



Here is a close up of other previously mentioned replaced bushings. Again, MissingLinkz came through with these. Note the white bushings at the top and bottom of the relay shaft.



To make the kit complete under the hood, a Callaway Valve cover is a must in my own humble opinion. This one has already had some rehab but will do for now until I kind find one in better condition.


In summary, it is coming together. A few more small bits are on the way. The down pipe will receive the final welding this coming weekend to call it a finished product. Then we'll hang the Techtonics Tuning exhaust and see what needs to be modified to make up for the length of a catalytic converter. :)
 

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Good stuff.

I'd been thinking about getting a bunch of downpipes made, mostly to help cut the cost per pipe so I could end up with one and sell the rest. Any chance of having one made in 2.25 with the waste fitting? That's the original size, yes? I forget.
 

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Having just made a downpipe for my conversion, with the same passenger-side layout, I can respect how much work went into that one to make it that nice. Mine was done the old-fashioned way...fit, mark, tack, refit, grind, retack, refit, tack, measure, etc. My back is killing me, lol. No hoist.

You could definitely make some coin off that jig ;).
 
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