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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey Guys,

I did my Haldex Fluid + Filter, Front and Rear Diffs Fluid, DSG Fluid + Filter and Engine oil + Filter Change a few days ago and took some pics for your DIYs. First Here are the pics (I apologize for the quality of the pics as I had forgotten my DSLR at home and the weather was a crisp 40c/104f)....

The parts were kindly supplied by ECS Tuning...



FRONT DIFF:

So as you can see in the pics the front diff fill bolt is hidden on your 11 o clock position and not 1 o clock (on a DSG car) as previously stated by another forum member...For this job you will need one of these http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2765922/ THE FRONT DIFF WILL TAKE ALMOST THE COMPLETE BOTTLE SO MAKE SURE YOU KEEP PUMPING FLUID IN THERE....

Front diff...







REAR DIFF:

The rear diff fluid swap was quiet easy....For this job you will need one of these http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2765922/



HALDEX:

The Haldex Fluid swap will require this kit http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2827153/ which includes the OEM Fliter and cover and Fluid....







To get the filter out it was very hard due to lack of space. It was stuck in there. We had to mangle it destroy it to take it out. Here are the new parts from ECS....



When it came time to fill the HALDEX up with fresh fluid it was quiet a fiddly job as the fluid kept coming out of the fill hole. Just had to put the fill pipe in a bit deeper and at an angle and then it gulped up most of the Haldex Fluid in the bottle.

DSG:

For this you will require 5 x http://www.ecstuning.com/ES12023/ + 1 of http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_VI--2.0T/ES2771687/ + http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_VI--2.0T/Drivetrain/DSG_Transmission/ES2662718/

OR http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_VI--2.0T/Drivetrain/DSG_Transmission/ES2739753/ (it comes with 6 liters but usually you only need about 5)



Watch these videos to do the DSG fluid Swap....

https://youtu.be/nhE19GCXlvA

https://youtu.be/YEFUR9lVhlI

CAM FOLLOWER:

So i had my Cam follower changed at the dealership last year and recently i was starting to hear a knocking sound upon start up and idle. On further investigation i noticed the cam follower bolts were only hand tight....



I purchased this kit from ECS http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_R--2.0T/Engine/Fuel/ES2609354/ and proceeded to swap out the old cam follower and O ring. Thank God there was no damage to the previous follower from the loose HPFP bolts.

Follow this simple DIY shown here on an MK5 GTI but ours is the same...

https://youtu.be/Bg8npMuun20

Also Changed my Fuel Filter while i was doing all the above....

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_R--2.0T/Engine/Fuel/ES2550239/

And the Engine Oil.....
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_R--2.0T/Engine/Oil_Service/ES2561245/

Don't forget when you remove the Engine Oil Filter get ready to catch some more oil in your oil drain pan or bucket....Mine wasn't changed for a while even though i paid the dealership to do it. The filter looked like it was almost falling apart. Thats why DIY it FOLKS and dont trust STEALER SHIPS too much after your warranty/service package is up.

Overall the car feels like a new vehicle especially with the new tires I put on it right after all the above was done along with a full alignment. Make sure to go to an empty car park after that and do a couple of figure eights with the car to get all the fluids to coat all the internal parts.

I hope the above info helps out you DIYers and saves you guys some headache and money.... Best of luck.
 

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Nice, thanks:beer:

What is interesting is that when I was working with [email protected] to get a massive maintenance order in for my 80k service he mentioned that I did not need a haldex filter because it was not a serviceable item, maybe that is why you had to destroy the old one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Nice, thanks:beer:

What is interesting is that when I was working with [email protected] to get a massive maintenance order in for my 80k service he mentioned that I did not need a haldex filter because it was not a serviceable item, maybe that is why you had to destroy the old one?
It was jammed up in there. You really should change it while your there. No harm.
 

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Thank you for putting this all together!

I do have a question. On the diffs and haldex fluid, do you fill it up until it comes out of the fill hole? Sorry for the dumb question. I assume you used a fluid transfer pump to get the fluids in the odd holes?

Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you for putting this all together!

I do have a question. On the diffs and haldex fluid, do you fill it up until it comes out of the fill hole? Sorry for the dumb question. I assume you used a fluid transfer pump to get the fluids in the odd holes?

Thank you!
Yes to both of your questions :)
 

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THANK YOU so much for posting this DIY. The pictures are fantastic and I'm sure will help A LOT of people on here, including myself when I go to do these maintenance items within the next few weeks.

I have a couple quick questions. What did you use to get the fluid into the fill holes? I normally use something like this (http://www.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-66418.html) for these kinds of jobs but want to make sure I grab something else if there's a better tool for the job here.

Also, the part about destroying the old Haldex filter is a bit disturbing. Did you use something like a screw driver or pliers to pull the older filter out? Is there potential to have pieces of the old filter become lodged into the Haldex system by doing this?

Again, thanks for posting this DIY for everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
THANK YOU so much for posting this DIY. The pictures are fantastic and I'm sure will help A LOT of people on here, including myself when I go to do these maintenance items within the next few weeks.

I have a couple quick questions. What did you use to get the fluid into the fill holes? I normally use something like this (http://www.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-66418.html) for these kinds of jobs but want to make sure I grab something else if there's a better tool for the job here.

Also, the part about destroying the old Haldex filter is a bit disturbing. Did you use something like a screw driver or pliers to pull the older filter out? Is there potential to have pieces of the old filter become lodged into the Haldex system by doing this?

Again, thanks for posting this DIY for everyone.
That tool from harbor freight should do the job, we used a tool sort of like a big brake bleeder thingy (cant find the right words) and it gets pressurized by using an airline from the shop and then you can easily pupm into the diffs/haldex/gearbox etc......

Dont worry too much about trying to get the Haldex filter out, we mangled it and squished it from the center so it was easy to pull out after as it was locked in there (we used needle nose pliers due to lack of space). No pieces fell off of it at all so it was all good. Just be careful when you try to remove it. Take your time.
 

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Big thanks for following through and posting this.. great write up and pics. Puts a lot of the questions and inconsistent info from that older thread to bed. I now understand why there was conflicting info on Haldex filter... it seems it's possible to service it, but not necessarily intended to work that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Big thanks for following through and posting this.. great write up and pics. Puts a lot of the questions and inconsistent info from that older thread to bed. I now understand why there was conflicting info on Haldex filter... it seems it's possible to service it, but not necessarily intended to work that way.
Yeah, I would replace that filter every say 60-100k? Up to the vehicle owner. its not too expensive or difficult of a job.
 

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how in the heck are you apologizing for the pictures? they are great. and thanks for taking the time to draft this. most helpful.
 

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So i had my Cam follower changed at the dealership last year and recently i was starting to hear a knocking sound upon start up and idle. On further investigation i noticed the cam follower bolts were only hand tight....
When you pulled the pump to change the follower did you notice any metal on the bolts? The housing the pump bolts to is soft aluminum and you can strip the threads very easy which will let the bolts come lose. You should watch them to make sure that this is not the case on why they came lose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
When you pulled the pump to change the follower did you notice any metal on the bolts? The housing the pump bolts to is soft aluminum and you can strip the threads very easy which will let the bolts come lose. You should watch them to make sure that this is not the case on why they came lose.
Yeah I checked for the striped threads. It looked good. That is why I just tightened them gently and I'll keep an eye on them.

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I forgot to ask, when you took the Haldex filter out, does any fluid come out with this? Should you swap the filter with the Haldex fluid drained or does it not really matter?
Just a little bit. drain the haldex, change filter, put in new haldex fluid
 

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What did you end up using for diff fluid? For the Haldex fluid fill I found a larger syringe and catheter (or tubing that fits on the syringe) from a pharmacy works well. Fill from the qt of fluid via the syringe and tube and squirt it into the fill hole and repeat a few times. You can plug the fill hole with a finger while filling if it's weeping out.

One thing to consider after I filled the Haldex and it started running out, the next day I had the rear on ramps to do a brake fluid change and on a whim checked the Haldex level. It needed another couple syringes worth of fluid. It must settle deep in the gears and crannies after driving.
 
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