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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Long story short - YMMV, but in short it seems a dying battery was causing the camshaft sensor code to be triggered.
Long story - I was getting the CPS codes consistently. I don't have a scope but I backprobed the signal and power wires on the CPS sensor with my meter and my readings were what they should have been. So checked my timing using the camshaft and crank pulley marks - again, they were spot on. I was about to replace the sensor but in the meantime I was having problems with my ignition switch and my lock cylinder, which I have posted about. After replacing the ignition switch I was still getting the CPS codes, but my ignition lock cylinder was sticking, leaving the radio, etc. on, which caused my battery to drain overnight twice. Each time I jumped the battery a CPS code eventually came back. I cleaned out the lock cylinder to prevent any more battery drains. Fixed the sticking cylinder, but unfortunately, when I cleaned out the lock cylinder I turned on the dome light and then forgot to turn it off when I was done - doh! That was enough to drain the dying battery one last time and kill it for good. Replaced the battery and...CPS codes went away. I've driven it nearly 700 miles and the CPS codes have not come back.

So...I'm guessing the sticking lock cylinder was slowly killing my battery over time. I noticed my door was chiming when I exited the car (maybe for weeks???). I don't have a scope, but it seems the dying battery was causing signal anomalies that couldn't be picked up by my voltage meter.
 

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49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Long story short - YMMV, but in short it seems a dying battery was causing the camshaft sensor code to be triggered.
Long story - I was getting the CPS codes consistently. I don't have a scope but I backprobed the signal and power wires on the CPS sensor with my meter and my readings were what they should have been. So checked my timing using the camshaft and crank pulley marks - again, they were spot on. I was about to replace the sensor but in the meantime I was having problems with my ignition switch and my lock cylinder, which I have posted about. After replacing the ignition switch I was still getting the CPS codes, but my ignition lock cylinder was sticking, leaving the radio, etc. on, which caused my battery to drain overnight twice. Each time I jumped the battery a CPS code eventually came back. I cleaned out the lock cylinder to prevent any more battery drains. Fixed the sticking cylinder, but unfortunately, when I cleaned out the lock cylinder I turned on the dome light and then forgot to turn it off when I was done - doh! That was enough to drain the dying battery one last time and kill it for good. Replaced the battery and...CPS codes went away. I've driven it nearly 700 miles and the CPS codes have not come back.

So...I'm guessing the sticking lock cylinder was slowly killing my battery over time. I noticed my door was chiming when I exited the car (maybe for weeks???). I don't have a scope, but it seems the dying battery was causing signal anomalies that couldn't be picked up by my voltage meter.
I forgot to add one more issue the new battery resolved, and that was an increasingly consistent double crank in the mornings. Crank once, doesn't turn over, crank again and then turns over. Well, I was going to check fuel pressure at some point, but never got around to it. The new battery got rid of the double crank as well, and now she starts up right away at the first crank.
 
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