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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
started having an issue with my car about last week, noticed it started to idle pretty rough, was only rough though in an idle drove fine...got the code scanned and it was cooling system malfunction and the lprobable causes were low coolant, water pump going bad, and i dont remember the other one. i do know that the water pump hasnt been changed on my car and im at almost 150xxx miles so thats why i think it may be that....i put in a new green top sensor and it didnt help the situation. the idle is really bad and its only getting worse, rpm's will drop to about 200 then bounce back up and will keep doing that until it eventually stalls and it starts doing this as soon as it starts up too. any help at all or suggestions?
also, when i was doing the ect sensor i replaced the housing bc it was cracked, lost all the coolant and filled it up with prestone, is there a special type of coolant we have tio use or is it okay to use that kind? its just the prestone 50/50 that says to mix with any kind
 

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could it possibly be a maf? or a dirty throttle body?

just two ideas..... :wave:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i wasnt really leaning towards that bc of the colling system malfunction code i threw....also, if the water pump breaks, what else is gonna break with it or what other damage is that going to cause?
 

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First of all i don't believe your idle issue have anything to do with your coolant/antifreeze issues.

I would have the car scanned with VAG-COM beforeyou do anything else to it. The rough idle can be due to poor spark (coilpacks starting to go, bad plugs). Someone correct me if I am wrong (I understand there can beother factors that affect idle).

As far as your question about the Prestone 50/50, I hope you really removed all the G12 (pink) coolant that comes from the factory. Once they mix they become gel in your lines.

I do have Prestone 50/50 in my system and had had it for about 5,000 miles and have no issues; however, I did remove ALL my G12 before refilling the system with the Prestone 50/50


Hope this helps a little bit.

Thiago
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
it does help but again the reason why i think the rough idle is bc of the coolling system is bc of the CEL, just replaced the aprk plugs not long ago and also had all the coilpacks replaced as well from the dealership bc of the recall on them, also when its a misfire issue you have a drastic loss of power when driving and the CEL will flash when you start getting on the throttle, none if this is happening right now, only thing is the rpms keep councing, really rough idle and even when driving sometimes the rpm's will take a dive and drop down....but like i said the only reason why i think it has something to do with the cooling system is bc of the cooing system malfunction CEL and bc the water pump has never been replaced yet
 

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it does help but again the reason why i think the rough idle is bc of the coolling system is bc of the CEL, just replaced the aprk plugs not long ago and also had all the coilpacks replaced as well from the dealership bc of the recall on them, also when its a misfire issue you have a drastic loss of power when driving and the CEL will flash when you start getting on the throttle, none if this is happening right now, only thing is the rpms keep councing, really rough idle and even when driving sometimes the rpm's will take a dive and drop down....but like i said the only reason why i think it has something to do with the cooling system is bc of the cooing system malfunction CEL and bc the water pump has never been replaced yet
I get the whole bogging down and CEL flashing but my car used to not do that for a while it would have a really rough idle and would lose power without the CEL coming on or flashing.

But either way good luck with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
well ive been reading on here for about the past 2 hours about people having similar issues, i think my problem may lie with the MAF sensor being bad. I was reading on ECStuning and it said one way to check to see if your maf is bad is to unplug it and then start your car and if the idle is better than before, the MAF needs to be replaced...I did that and it idles like a champ, no rough idling or bogging at all, however, while reading on here someone made a comment on someone elses post to stop doing that because thats not a diagnostic to see if the MAF is bad, doing that basically doesnt tell you anything....should i go ahead and replace the MAF or what?
 
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