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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Haven't seen anything on the internet on "How to Change your VW Arteon's Oil (E888 2.0L Gas Engine)" So I thought I would put together a quick guide for anyone who cares enough to do this in your garage. Since I finally hit 10000 miles, and didn't feel like paying the dealer to do it (plus it's nice to learn how your vehicles work in case you've gotta do it somewhere without a dealer), so here we go.

You will need:
Volkswagen VW Audi Oil Filter 06L-115-562-B
6 quarts of 5w30 (VW 504 spec) or 0w30 (VW 502 spec). I found that Castrol, Valvoline and Mobil all make "European Blend" oils that fill one of these two specs. The Arteon owners manual says you can use either one. Personally since I found it cheap on Amazon, I used 5w30, but the operating specs are basically the same.
T45 bit with a socket set that fits the bit head
T25 screwdriver or bit
1 1/4 or 32mm socket for the oil filter plastic cover


It's really easy. You need a socket wrench with a 1/2" driver, a T45 and a T25 bit, and a handle. (Or, if you're fancy, use a T25 screwdriver). You'll absolutely need the T40 socket driver however, because the plug is a T45, as well as the three back screws on the underbelly plastic protector.



So, first things first. Jack your car up and put jack stands under it. The jack points are on the side of the car, right behind the wheel. They look like circles. I put my jack stands under the lower control arm cradles.

Once you've got it jacked up, it should look like this:



Zoom into the back where the 3 T45 bolts are:





I highlighted the screws you need to remove to get the belly pan off. You'll have to press down on two tabs at the front of the chin of the bumper and push backwards to get the belly pan off. Once it's off, move it out of the way.


You want to then, on the left (looking towards the rear of the car) look for the black pan with a sensor attached to it. Don't look at the right pan, that's the transmission fluid pan (you'd screw up bigtime if you drained this).



First, remove your oil fill cap in the engine bay, to help the oil drain quicker.

Then, remove that T45 bolt on the oil pan with a socket wrench and a T40 bit, it's going to be on there pretty tight. Put your pan under the stream and watch it drain away.



Again, its the one on the left, if you're looking towards the rear of the car.


After that, you want to go up top and undo the oil filter. The socket size is SAE 1 1/4 or metric 32mm. It's the part highlighted in red here:



It actually auto-drains out, so do this while you have the drain plug undone. Once all the oil is gone, reinstall the new filter and torque it down to spec (25.5NM, use a torque wrench please, it's plastic)


Once you're done with this, put a new crush washer on your oil drain plug and screw it back in with your T40 bit, taking care not to over-tighten it (20-25lb/ft torque).


Go back up top and fill the engine with around 5.5 quarts of oil, (Fill marked in blue on the pic above) and check using your dipstick when you're full.
If you need to add a bit more, do that. But don't add all 6 quarts off the top and overfill. You can always underfill and fill more, but once you overfill you're screwed.

Protop: A funnel won't fit into this oil fill tube, so take care not to spill EVERYWHERE like I did. Get a shallow funnel.




Finally, put the belly pan back on. Use the picture above, but in reverse, to put it back on. You'll probably have to use a socket on those T45 bolts to get them properly seated and locked down.




TO RESET THE MAINTENANCE OR OIL CHANGE WARNING ON YOUR ARTEON

This is with the digital dash, but I assume it's the same for my other analog brethren. I had to look up a European Passat video on how to do this.

1. Hold down the brake pedal, and the "0.0" odometer trip reset button
2. Hit your start button
3. Let go of the 0.0 button
4. A menu should show up allowing you to reset the maintenance interval warning.



That's it! Enjoy your newly changed Arteon's oil! Drive her hard with her new oil!
 

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Good write up but a couple comments/corrections are needed. FYI, I just performed my 2nd oil change today.

1) Torx Bits for the lower engine shield are T25 & T45 not T20 & T40. There are four T25 screws on one side of the lower shield, and three on the other side, plus the one at the front for a total of eight T25 and three T45.

2) Torx bit to remove the drain plug is also a T45 not T40

3) I also recommend always changing the crush washer on the drain plug every oil change. This is a crush washer and not the flat aluminum washer, so single use only.

4) My underhood sticker specifically states to use 0w-30 viscosity meeting 504 spec. I'm following that instead of the manual

5) It is necessary to remove the engine cover to remove the oil filter as you showed. Why they didn't design enough clearance in the first place kind of annoys me.

6) In theory you could fill without a funnel and not make a mess. I thought I could, but after having the quart bottle burp and spill some anyway, I ended up using one. Needs to have a very narrow outlet
 

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Good write up but a couple corrections are needed. FYI, I just performed my 2nd oil change today.

4) My underhood sticker specifically states to use 0w-30 viscosity meeting 504 spec. I'm following that instead of the manual
This is a great point. The manual even states that you should follow any labels on the car if they don't match what's in the manual.
 

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I have that funnel from ECS.. so much better. I did it on my friends R without it and it was horrible. I did it with the funnel on my Arteon and I literally just dumped the oil in the funnel and let it do its thing.

Also, I bought the dual power extractor from ECS/Schweban. So much cleaner and easier. Only drawback is cleaning the hose. The extractor itself i just left it with a layer of oil in it.

I have a box of Mobil1 0W-40 thats 502 spec and a box of Mobil1 ESP 0W-30 thats 504 spec.
 

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Since the filter is on top of the engine, getting a basic hand pump oil extractor off Amazon and just sucking the oil out the dipstick tube from the top is a LOT easier and a LOT quicker. No jackstands, no shield removals, none of that messing around - just suck it out the tube (yes, it gets all of it). Don't need to worry about the crush washer either.

I do oil changes on my Tiguan in literally 20 minutes this way, and I can do it while wearing nice clothes.

Nice write-up, but you could literally cut 2/3 of your post out if you just sucked the oil out of the dipstick tube, topside...which is also what the dealer does.

1) Take dipstick out and suck oil out of dipstick tube with extractor
2) Loosen filter and let it drain, then replace filter
3) Fill new oil
4) Reset service indicator
 

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im just now coming up on my first oil change (this last year i have hardly driven my Arteon), how does me changing my oil myself effect the warranty if anything happens? can the dealership come back saying since i have no record of an oil change potential warranty work will not be covered?
 

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im just now coming up on my first oil change (this last year i have hardly driven my Arteon), how does me changing my oil myself effect the warranty if anything happens? can the dealership come back saying since i have no record of an oil change potential warranty work will not be covered?
Save your receipts (oil, filter). I just changed mine for the first time, and decided to use all VW OEM parts: oil, filter, and drain plug crush washer. I wrote it up like a shop would, including tag, date, mileage and VIN, listing part numbers, noted particles and 3 metal shavings found in filter inspection. I ordered the parts from ECS Tuning.

I had a cam chain tensioner go bad on my 2001 Passat, under warranty, and had no warranty problem even though I was missing one oil change receipt from a shop.
 

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Nice write-up, but you could literally cut 2/3 of your post out if you just sucked the oil out of the dipstick tube, topside...which is also what the dealer does.

1) Take dipstick out and suck oil out of dipstick tube with extractor
2) Loosen filter and let it drain, then replace filter
3) Fill new oil
4) Reset service indicator
I have an oil sucker, but chose to get under the car for inspection purposes this time.

I suggest letting the filter drain before extracting the oil. From the shape of the pan, the sucker method will not leave much oil behind. I might jack car a bit from the left side (driver in US) before extracting, to tilt the pan so as to get a tiny bit more out, but it doesn't really matter.
 

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Regarding the oil drain bolt and crush washer: Apparently the bolt/washer/pan was painted after assembly. When the bolt is removed, it looks like it has a flange and no washer. The "flange" is the washer, and will pop off easily. I was initially trying to pick loose the washer from the "flange" before realizing my mistake.
 

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OIL Sucker , Haaa LOL Oil Evacuation system , or Oil Change Pump Out like they use for Inborad Boat Motors . .

Yes those are like $40 bucks easy to use especially in Cold Weather . .

Does this New Model - now that's been out awhile have a Transmission Level Monitor or Dip Stick ?

Do these New Motors have Built in Oil Monitor systems Based on Miles & Type of Driving * Hard Mountain Driving * vs all Highway vs all City Driving . . ?

Now that VW and Like have had Issues with Past Motors , have they Installed Oil Pressure sensor that Actually Lets Owner - Know - When
Oil Level Temperature is Climbing Higher then Normal ? Or Oil Pressure is slightly Lower then Normal ?

Instead of a Light when Oil is Actually Gone or NO Pressure @ all ( Throws Light ) ?_?

Europe use to have these , What's Deal Screw all American's or American Unions are Just Plain F&*$$ Us
 

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VW manuals are notoriously confusing for oil specifications. All you need is to make sure the oil you use meets the certification on the sticker under the hood, much more straight forward.

If you have the 504 sticker, I'd suggest VW 504 since it is a newer, tougher spec from VW (actually one of the most stringent for any manufacturer) and is formulated for newer engines with lower Sulphur fuel, it may keep the engine cleaner than the much older VW 502 spec. You won't find VW 504 oils at Walmart, but you can now get it straight from the dealer departments for as little as 6 bucks a quart. On line is also an alternative of course.
 
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