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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Haven't seen anything on the internet on "How to Change your VW Arteon's Oil (E888 2.0L Gas Engine)" So I thought I would put together a quick guide for anyone who cares enough to do this in your garage. Since I finally hit 10000 miles, and didn't feel like paying the dealer to do it (plus it's nice to learn how your vehicles work in case you've gotta do it somewhere without a dealer), so here we go.

You will need:
Volkswagen VW Audi Oil Filter 06L-115-562-B
6 quarts of 5w30 (VW 504 spec) or 0w30 (VW 502 spec). I found that Castrol, Valvoline and Mobil all make "European Blend" oils that fill one of these two specs. The Arteon owners manual says you can use either one. Personally since I found it cheap on Amazon, I used 5w30, but the operating specs are basically the same.
T45 bit with a socket set that fits the bit head
T25 screwdriver or bit
1 1/4 or 32mm socket for the oil filter plastic cover


It's really easy. You need a socket wrench with a 1/2" driver, a T45 and a T25 bit, and a handle. (Or, if you're fancy, use a T25 screwdriver). You'll absolutely need the T40 socket driver however, because the plug is a T45, as well as the three back screws on the underbelly plastic protector.



So, first things first. Jack your car up and put jack stands under it. The jack points are on the side of the car, right behind the wheel. They look like circles. I put my jack stands under the lower control arm cradles.

Once you've got it jacked up, it should look like this:



Zoom into the back where the 3 T45 bolts are:





I highlighted the screws you need to remove to get the belly pan off. You'll have to press down on two tabs at the front of the chin of the bumper and push backwards to get the belly pan off. Once it's off, move it out of the way.


You want to then, on the left (looking towards the rear of the car) look for the black pan with a sensor attached to it. Don't look at the right pan, that's the transmission fluid pan (you'd screw up bigtime if you drained this).



First, remove your oil fill cap in the engine bay, to help the oil drain quicker.

Then, remove that T45 bolt on the oil pan with a socket wrench and a T40 bit, it's going to be on there pretty tight. Put your pan under the stream and watch it drain away.



Again, its the one on the left, if you're looking towards the rear of the car.


After that, you want to go up top and undo the oil filter. The socket size is SAE 1 1/4 or metric 32mm. It's the part highlighted in red here:



It actually auto-drains out, so do this while you have the drain plug undone. Once all the oil is gone, reinstall the new filter and torque it down to spec (25.5NM, use a torque wrench please, it's plastic)


Once you're done with this, put a new crush washer on your oil drain plug and screw it back in with your T40 bit, taking care not to over-tighten it (20-25lb/ft torque).


Go back up top and fill the engine with around 5.5 quarts of oil, (Fill marked in blue on the pic above) and check using your dipstick when you're full.
If you need to add a bit more, do that. But don't add all 6 quarts off the top and overfill. You can always underfill and fill more, but once you overfill you're screwed.

Protop: A funnel won't fit into this oil fill tube, so take care not to spill EVERYWHERE like I did. Get a shallow funnel.




Finally, put the belly pan back on. Use the picture above, but in reverse, to put it back on. You'll probably have to use a socket on those T45 bolts to get them properly seated and locked down.




TO RESET THE MAINTENANCE OR OIL CHANGE WARNING ON YOUR ARTEON

This is with the digital dash, but I assume it's the same for my other analog brethren. I had to look up a European Passat video on how to do this.

1. Hold down the brake pedal, and the "0.0" odometer trip reset button
2. Hit your start button
3. Let go of the 0.0 button
4. A menu should show up allowing you to reset the maintenance interval warning.



That's it! Enjoy your newly changed Arteon's oil! Drive her hard with her new oil!
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I would not use the front pivots of the control arm for your jackstands, they are not designed to hold the weight of the car.
There is nowhere else on the bottom of this car to put jackstands. Unless you plan on getting under it while you have to jacks on either front jack point, this is the only solution I figured out. Everything else is nowhere near load bearing.
 
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