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2022 Arteon SEL Premium R-Line
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The 2022 Arteon with a Evo4 engine according to the owners manual requires 0W-30 oil. The owner manual says synth oil change interval is 7,500 - 10,000 miles, I prefer to change oil in all my cars every 5000 miles. So between the free oil changes that the dealer offers for 2 years, I plan to change the oil my self every 5000 mi after the initial change after the 1000 mile break-in period. I buy my oil, filter and drain plug from FCP euro so it is only only a one time buy plus cost to ship the oil back.

I have never changed oil at the dealership for all the new cars I have bought. I just keep receipts just in case there is a warranty issue.
 

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The 2022 Arteon with a Evo4 engine according to the owners manual requires 0W-30 oil. The owner manual says synth oil change interval is 7,500 - 10,000 miles, I prefer to change oil in all my cars every 5000 miles. So between the free oil changes that the dealer offers for 2 years, I plan to change the oil my self every 5000 mi after the initial change after the 1000 mile break-in period. I buy my oil, filter and drain plug from FCP euro so it is only only a one time buy plus cost to ship the oil back.

I have never changed oil at the dealership for all the new cars I have bought. I just keep receipts just in case there is a warranty issue.
Most Auto Parts stores accept used oil for free.. just saying. I been changing my oil with the extractor and bringing the whole container to Advanced Auto in NJ and they just told me to go to the back and empty it out. 5000 miles at home and the next 5000 miles at dealer.
 

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Nice writeup by the OP. Same process for any transverse EA883 engine VW or Audi.

I would never use an extractor - that's for lazy owners who don't mind leaving the dregs in the pan.

Most automatic transmissions send fluid through the (in pan) filter before the pump. Practically all engines send the oil through the oil pump before the oil filter. Think about it.
 

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this is intriguing. What do you use to aspirate the oil? I imagine a tube of some sorts and a vacuum pump?


Nice writeup by the OP. Same process for any transverse EA883 engine VW or Audi.

I would never use an extractor - that's for lazy owners who don't mind leaving the dregs in the pan.

Most automatic transmissions send fluid through the (in pan) filter before the pump. Practically all engines send the oil through the oil pump before the oil filter. Think about it.
Some of us don't have the liberty of having jack, jack stands ramps, or the ability to go under the car. And some of us like to change their oil outside the recommended service intervals. So, it would get drained form the drain plug at the dealer at 10,000 mile intervals anyways. Oil will be changed at 5000 mile intervals.
 

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Some of us don't have the liberty of having jack, jack stands ramps, or the ability to go under the car. And some of us like to change their oil outside the recommended service intervals. So, it would get drained form the drain plug at the dealer at 10,000 mile intervals anyways. Oil will be changed at 5000 mile intervals.
Beg to perhaps differ. Many (most?) dealers use extractors. Check and see (if they will answer accurately). Mine did - quite displeased. Fortunately I performed oil changes in addition to the factory program service.
 

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Having problems finding a dealer here to service the car how I want it.
I want my oil sucked out, I do not want the undertray, screws, crush washer and sump plug interfered with.
Seems any deviation from "standard" their brains are unable to cope and they tell you they cannot do it.
 

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What don’t you like about using a vacuum pump?
Simple in the extreme. It does not get everything out - most specifically, any heavier than oil particles which will continue to build up ( down? :) ). And as previously mentioned in post #44, engine oil goes thought the oil pump before reaching the filter. Unwelcome events do not happen overnight. Owners get to follow their own maintenance paths.

Another process we always follow on the street car and the race car is to fill the oil filter prior to installation. Obviously not possible on the as-delivered VW 4-cylinder engine.
 

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Guys just on this.... My local place told me that on my model of car, it is a plastic sump plug. Upon further googling, it seems many of the newer VW engines not only came with a plastic sump plug, but a plastic oil pan at the bottom too.
Interested in two things here:
1) In the US are dealers sucking the oil out of the dipstick tube with extractors?
2) Are the newer Arteons actually now coming with plastic sumps too, like the Golfs etc?
 

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Haven't seen anything on the internet on "How to Change your VW Arteon's Oil (E888 2.0L Gas Engine)" So I thought I would put together a quick guide for anyone who cares enough to do this in your garage. Since I finally hit 10000 miles, and didn't feel like paying the dealer to do it (plus it's nice to learn how your vehicles work in case you've gotta do it somewhere without a dealer), so here we go.

You will need:
Volkswagen VW Audi Oil Filter 06L-115-562-B
6 quarts of 5w30 (VW 504 spec) or 0w30 (VW 502 spec). I found that Castrol, Valvoline and Mobil all make "European Blend" oils that fill one of these two specs. The Arteon owners manual says you can use either one. Personally since I found it cheap on Amazon, I used 5w30, but the operating specs are basically the same.
T45 bit with a socket set that fits the bit head
T25 screwdriver or bit
1 1/4 or 32mm socket for the oil filter plastic cover


It's really easy. You need a socket wrench with a 1/2" driver, a T45 and a T25 bit, and a handle. (Or, if you're fancy, use a T25 screwdriver). You'll absolutely need the T40 socket driver however, because the plug is a T45, as well as the three back screws on the underbelly plastic protector.



So, first things first. Jack your car up and put jack stands under it. The jack points are on the side of the car, right behind the wheel. They look like circles. I put my jack stands under the lower control arm cradles.

Once you've got it jacked up, it should look like this:



Zoom into the back where the 3 T45 bolts are:





I highlighted the screws you need to remove to get the belly pan off. You'll have to press down on two tabs at the front of the chin of the bumper and push backwards to get the belly pan off. Once it's off, move it out of the way.


You want to then, on the left (looking towards the rear of the car) look for the black pan with a sensor attached to it. Don't look at the right pan, that's the transmission fluid pan (you'd screw up bigtime if you drained this).



First, remove your oil fill cap in the engine bay, to help the oil drain quicker.

Then, remove that T45 bolt on the oil pan with a socket wrench and a T40 bit, it's going to be on there pretty tight. Put your pan under the stream and watch it drain away.



Again, its the one on the left, if you're looking towards the rear of the car.


After that, you want to go up top and undo the oil filter. The socket size is SAE 1 1/4 or metric 32mm. It's the part highlighted in red here:



It actually auto-drains out, so do this while you have the drain plug undone. Once all the oil is gone, reinstall the new filter and torque it down to spec (25.5NM, use a torque wrench please, it's plastic)


Once you're done with this, put a new crush washer on your oil drain plug and screw it back in with your T40 bit, taking care not to over-tighten it (20-25lb/ft torque).


Go back up top and fill the engine with around 5.5 quarts of oil, (Fill marked in blue on the pic above) and check using your dipstick when you're full.
If you need to add a bit more, do that. But don't add all 6 quarts off the top and overfill. You can always underfill and fill more, but once you overfill you're screwed.

Protop: A funnel won't fit into this oil fill tube, so take care not to spill EVERYWHERE like I did. Get a shallow funnel.




Finally, put the belly pan back on. Use the picture above, but in reverse, to put it back on. You'll probably have to use a socket on those T45 bolts to get them properly seated and locked down.




TO RESET THE MAINTENANCE OR OIL CHANGE WARNING ON YOUR ARTEON

This is with the digital dash, but I assume it's the same for my other analog brethren. I had to look up a European Passat video on how to do this.

1. Hold down the brake pedal, and the "0.0" odometer trip reset button
2. Hit your start button
3. Let go of the 0.0 button
4. A menu should show up allowing you to reset the maintenance interval warning.



That's it! Enjoy your newly changed Arteon's oil! Drive her hard with her new oil!
Nice write up. I dont bother going under any mqb cars, I suck it out up top with an oil extractor. It works perfectly well and it’s what the dealer does as well when you take it in.
 

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OK, just now getting the Schwaben extractor put together. The dipstick on my 2019 Arteon has clips on each side so that it's effective "locked" on the tube going to the oil pan. Is there some trick to getting the dipstick out? Also, the video I watched suggests the car should be hot when the oil is extracted. I want to make sure the tube that came with the extractor won't melt when I insert it into the dipstick tube. Can someone verify this - hot engine is ok for extracting the oil with the Schwaben extractor?
 

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2022 Arteon SEL Premium R-Line
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I understand using a oil extractor is less messy, what is the issue with going under a Volkswagen. I have been doing it for a few decades. Anything specific related to dealing with plastic oil pan and plastic oil drain plug?
 

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I understand using a oil extractor is less messy, what is the issue with going under a Volkswagen. I have been doing it for a few decades. Anything specific related to dealing with plastic oil pan and plastic oil drain plug?
The issue with going underneath is that it's a completely unnecessary, messy waste of time on a car that has an oil filter serviced from the topside.

Literally oil changes in top side filter VWs with an extractor take 20 minutes and can be done dressed in nice clothes.
 

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Well, my first oil change went really well. This oil extractor is really awesome. I was a bit surprised when I removed the oil cap on the engine and it has a sticker on it recommending Castrol oil. I used Mobil 1 0w30 synthetic so hopefully no problems.

Unfortunately, when I closed my garage door, one of the coil springs on it broke and now my cars are stuck in the garage until we get the spring replaced!
 

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Haven't seen anything on the internet on "How to Change your VW Arteon's Oil (E888 2.0L Gas Engine)" So I thought I would put together a quick guide for anyone who cares enough to do this in your garage. Since I finally hit 10000 miles, and didn't feel like paying the dealer to do it (plus it's nice to learn how your vehicles work in case you've gotta do it somewhere without a dealer), so here we go.

You will need:
Volkswagen VW Audi Oil Filter 06L-115-562-B
6 quarts of 5w30 (VW 504 spec) or 0w30 (VW 502 spec). I found that Castrol, Valvoline and Mobil all make "European Blend" oils that fill one of these two specs. The Arteon owners manual says you can use either one. Personally since I found it cheap on Amazon, I used 5w30, but the operating specs are basically the same.
T45 bit with a socket set that fits the bit head
T25 screwdriver or bit
1 1/4 or 32mm socket for the oil filter plastic cover


It's really easy. You need a socket wrench with a 1/2" driver, a T45 and a T25 bit, and a handle. (Or, if you're fancy, use a T25 screwdriver). You'll absolutely need the T40 socket driver however, because the plug is a T45, as well as the three back screws on the underbelly plastic protector.



So, first things first. Jack your car up and put jack stands under it. The jack points are on the side of the car, right behind the wheel. They look like circles. I put my jack stands under the lower control arm cradles.

Once you've got it jacked up, it should look like this:



Zoom into the back where the 3 T45 bolts are:





I highlighted the screws you need to remove to get the belly pan off. You'll have to press down on two tabs at the front of the chin of the bumper and push backwards to get the belly pan off. Once it's off, move it out of the way.


You want to then, on the left (looking towards the rear of the car) look for the black pan with a sensor attached to it. Don't look at the right pan, that's the transmission fluid pan (you'd screw up bigtime if you drained this).



First, remove your oil fill cap in the engine bay, to help the oil drain quicker.

Then, remove that T45 bolt on the oil pan with a socket wrench and a T40 bit, it's going to be on there pretty tight. Put your pan under the stream and watch it drain away.



Again, its the one on the left, if you're looking towards the rear of the car.


After that, you want to go up top and undo the oil filter. The socket size is SAE 1 1/4 or metric 32mm. It's the part highlighted in red here:



It actually auto-drains out, so do this while you have the drain plug undone. Once all the oil is gone, reinstall the new filter and torque it down to spec (25.5NM, use a torque wrench please, it's plastic)


Once you're done with this, put a new crush washer on your oil drain plug and screw it back in with your T40 bit, taking care not to over-tighten it (20-25lb/ft torque).


Go back up top and fill the engine with around 5.5 quarts of oil, (Fill marked in blue on the pic above) and check using your dipstick when you're full.
If you need to add a bit more, do that. But don't add all 6 quarts off the top and overfill. You can always underfill and fill more, but once you overfill you're screwed.

Protop: A funnel won't fit into this oil fill tube, so take care not to spill EVERYWHERE like I did. Get a shallow funnel.




Finally, put the belly pan back on. Use the picture above, but in reverse, to put it back on. You'll probably have to use a socket on those T45 bolts to get them properly seated and locked down.




TO RESET THE MAINTENANCE OR OIL CHANGE WARNING ON YOUR ARTEON

This is with the digital dash, but I assume it's the same for my other analog brethren. I had to look up a European Passat video on how to do this.

1. Hold down the brake pedal, and the "0.0" odometer trip reset button
2. Hit your start button
3. Let go of the 0.0 button
4. A menu should show up allowing you to reset the maintenance interval warning.



That's it! Enjoy your newly changed Arteon's oil! Drive her hard with her new oil!
Fantastic write up.
 
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