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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I think it is unusual for the light to come on for 2 sensors at the same time. A local mechanic (not VW) checked for thrown codes and finds both front O2 pre-cat sensors are bad. Thoughts? He wants about $800.00 to replace them. Car has 187,000 miles. V8.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes,
P0030 and P0153
They want $430 for parts and $287.50 labor plus tax. = $790.97.
Part # 50R02 Left side to install = $175.00
and 50R02 right side to install = $112.50
 

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1999 Audi A4 Stroker Build in Progress S200SXE, Custom Megasquirt ECU, ABA Forged Crank and more
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Yes,
P0030 and P0153
They want $430 for parts and $287.50 labor plus tax. = $790.97.
Part # 50R02 Left side to install = $175.00
and 50R02 right side to install = $112.50
P0153 means nothing and P0030 means b1 s1 o2 sensor fault. Based off the fault codes Only 1 oxygen sensor is throwing a fault not sure why he wants to replace both primary o2 sensors. If it was also the other sensor you’d throw a b2 s1 fault and you aren’t. Unless he confirmed the other is bad with an ohm test I wouldn’t have him replace it. Even so you’d likely have a fault. Is this guy know for being good / trust worthy?
 

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Upstream O2 Sensors, Bosch, $73 each from Rockauto.com
I have no idea how difficult the sensors on your engine are to R&R.
Wild Ass Guess, a pro might charge 1 hour labor.
$400 total

I see you are building a 2L stroker motor.
I bet you could do the R&R yourself.
2 sensors, shipped to your door $175
You would likely need an O2 Sensor Wrench Rock has 'em.

fat biker

P.S. We know that with time and mileage O2 sensors performance declines. If your sensors are original, new sensors would likely improve engine performance to some degree.
 

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1999 Audi A4 Stroker Build in Progress S200SXE, Custom Megasquirt ECU, ABA Forged Crank and more
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Upstream O2 Sensors, Bosch, $73 each from Rockauto.com
I have no idea how difficult the sensors on your engine are to R&R.
Wild Ass Guess, a pro might charge 1 hour labor.
$400 total

I see you are building a 2L stroker motor.
I bet you could do the R&R yourself.
2 sensors, shipped to your door $175
You would likely need an O2 Sensor Wrench Rock has 'em.

fat biker

P.S. We know that with time and mileage O2 sensors performance declines. If your sensors are original, new sensors would likely improve engine performance to some degree.
I'm not the OP but I do agree with what you said
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
P0153 means nothing and P0030 means b1 s1 o2 sensor fault. Based off the fault codes Only 1 oxygen sensor is throwing a fault not sure why he wants to replace both primary o2 sensors. If it was also the other sensor you’d throw a b2 s1 fault and you aren’t. Unless he confirmed the other is bad with an ohm test I wouldn’t have him replace it. Even so you’d likely have a fault. Is this guy know for being good / trust worthy?
PO153 has something to do with "slow to respond" sensor. Just before this all happened, I threw in a quart of oil after the low oil lamp came on. I think I bought synthetic oil 5 w 30. IDK if it fouled the sensors?
 

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If you don't have VCDS you should find someone who can run a scan for you and also look at the data in the MVBs. It will show you the actual sensor values in real time, that should help in troubleshooting before just throwing parts at it.
 

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If you don't have VCDS you should find someone who can run a scan for you and also look at the data in the MVBs. It will show you the actual sensor values in real time, that should help in troubleshooting before just throwing parts at it.
Yeah I agree also you can always measure resistance at the sensor to confirm whether or not its bad. OP I can post instructions if you are interested
 

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I hate to sound like a broken record, but I'd run an autoscan, save the results and clear the engine faults, then Clear ALL DTCs before anything else.

If the faults won't clear (I have had to Clear ALL DRCs three or more times after charging the left battery), then I would investigate further.

Do you have the connector tool to disconnect the Oxygen Sensor connectors without damage?

Do you have male terminals, so you don't spread the female terminals with huge multimeter leads?
 

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Reading down this post, before I got to your last post I was already thinking clear the codes and go out (once the engine is up to proper oil temp) - Drive the car hard, from a dead stop just bury your foot and take it up to 80 miles an hour then pull to the shoulder and do it again and again and again wide-open throttle through high RPMs in several shifts repeatedly get some heat into it.

You will be amazed the benefits that has on everything in an engine & trans.

High heat and full fuel flow is beneficial for injectors, valves, pistons, combustion chambers, rings, catalytic converter‘s, and yes O2 sensors. As well as the solenoids in the trans.

The worst myth ever in car history is the ‘driven easy’ - ‘highway miles’ - ‘just to church’ car.


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