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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Smelled the distinct odor of gasoline and found that the line to the cold start valve has sprung a good drip. The line is burst about mid ways. Does anyone know of a method to repair the line, someone selling new or have a good used line for sale? I was planning to change the break in oil and filter this weekend from putting the ABA/ JH with new cam in... Always something... TIA
 

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Cohline 2mm ID Polyamide, covered with SS braid. I’m unsure if I’d try to repair that line... I’d probably search the used market.

Belmetric sells the line, but it’s about $20 per meter, plus the learning curve of harvesting your ends and getting your ends into the line. If you go this route, post pics. I’d like to redo all my lines, with freshly plated hardware. I was planning on experimenting with the longer lines, and turning them into shorter lines.

-Todd
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Cohline 2mm ID Polyamide, covered with SS braid. I’m unsure if I’d try to repair that line... I’d probably search the used market.

Belmetric sells the line, but it’s about $20 per meter, plus the learning curve of harvesting your ends and getting your ends into the line. If you go this route, post pics. I’d like to redo all my lines, with freshly plated hardware. I was planning on experimenting with the longer lines, and turning them into shorter lines.

-Todd
I am at the point of dissembling my hose to get a new one. I have PM'd a classified advertiser that once sold hose and now only wants to service the restoring market at a nice markup. Won't do a single line... It is not rocket surgery.. Belmetric does sell some types of Cohline.
 

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When these lines were still available, I remember them being around $35 -$40 each. I think I had a complete new set and I sold them, thinking I’d never get another CIS car...

What that advertiser wants isn’t that far out of line, once you consider he’s selling a 7 line set.

I’m not sure what your end goal is, but maybe find appropriate rated FI hose and just clamp it. System pressure is just under 80psi.

-Todd
 

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Unsure if that would be the case. Once control pressure stabilizes, the pressure in all lines should remain static. I’d also think the internal braiding of FI hose prevents internal flexing.

I’d also consider finding nylon hose, that could be in the same size range. Dorman sells rolls of line and I’m sure others do, also.

-Todd
 

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The plastic they use would prevent any flexing what so ever. The metal braid is for external issues [severing lines in an accident]. I do not know it's just my opinion. Most CIS systems have everything located on the engine. VW does have the distributor bolted to the body and the injectors on the engine. Lots of vibration between the two. Maybe that is why they have braided lines vs other manufacturers that did not.

I'm certain most of the engineers are long gone so we will never know.
 

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Abrasion resistance makes sense with the metal braid, but didn’t later year VWs use non braided lines? I have a CPR with what appears to be factory rubber lines... unsure if they’re Polyamide cores. I’m not positive what they came off of, but I think 16v Scirocco or Passat. Maybe the braiding eventually got discarded, due to cost.

BMW, definitely used Polyamide lines, without the braiding.

-Todd
 

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vw & bosch etc:
could have removed the SS braided lines because
cost
shorter lengths
lower fuel pressure requirements

who knows really
my guess is cost & lower fuel pressure, with higher quality hose components


the SS braid is slightly dissatisfactory because it actually hides damages and wear
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I appreciate the great info guys. My leak is where the braid rubbed on the left hand side of the intake. I would only use bare polyamide line with some other hose to cushion. I would go with the 7mm OD x 3mm ID that Techtonics tuning sells. Great price on the 5mm OD x 3 mm ID from partsklassik. But I prefer to have the braid cover. I have no care to look good under the hood. I just want everything done properly and neatly. And I kinda like a sleeper.

I found an excellent resource for repair instructions at http://www.unobtaniumsupply.com/Downloads/Instructions/CIS Barb Insertion Tool Instructions.pdf
Unfortunately it contains zero info about how to remove the braid under the sleeve for disassembly, nor any clues to reinsert fresh braid. Anyone have ideas?

I have verified that my hose is 5 mm OD x 3mm ID with braid at 6mm.
 

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From what I understand, removal is done with heat or chemicals and a bit of brute force. I’d practice on a spare line. The banjo eye should be 8mm. Maybe place a 8mm rod/unthreaded bolt shaft through, then heat and pull. Be careful to not pull so hard, that the eye or barb is distorted.

The collar is for aesthetics and maybe a bit of functionality, by keeping the braid from unraveling. It’s not crimped on; install collar on the cut line, then force the barb in, is the installation process.

-Todd
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
From what I understand, removal is done with heat or chemicals and a bit of brute force. I’d practice on a spare line. The banjo eye should be 8mm. Maybe place a 8mm rod/unthreaded bolt shaft through, then heat and pull. Be careful to not pull so hard, that the eye or barb is distorted.

The collar is for aesthetics and maybe a bit of functionality, by keeping the braid from unraveling. It’s not crimped on; install collar on the cut line, then force the barb in, is the installation process.

-Todd
Have a heat gun to employ. Work in plastic injection.. Wish I had a spare line to destroy but will be live when I go there. Banjo eye is 8mm on both ends, Looking at unraveling the braid until I can pull strands out from under the over sleeve. Use heat from there to remove the nylon hose off the barb.

Kinda unknown from there and looking for guideance..
 
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