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Unless there is an obvious adjustment at either the pushrod on the pedal for the clutch master cylinder or an adjustment on the slave cylinder puchrod...Then no. And I'm fairly certain there is not anadjustment at all...Most hydro clutches have no adjustment.

What do you mean the clutch is at "the end" of the pedal? Referring to the upper end or near the floor?

If its now at the upper end of the pedal, its likely back to where normal engagement would be OR the clutch is worn out. It was being hidden by your slave cylinder going bad, or a system that was not fully bled. A leak or system with air in it will lower the engagement point on the pedal toward the floor. So maybe once you put in a new slave and got a good bleed, it brought the pedal to where it is supposed to be...Which would be further up in the pedal travel. I wouldn't worry about it unless the clutch start to slip.

If your engagement point is near the floor, could be still air in the system (being the simplest fix)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thank you !:beer: its the upper end, I guess I was use to it being closest to the floor and was thinking I needed to adjust it, the clutch don't slip so I think I'm good,:thumbup: thanks for the reply and info:thumbup:
 

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Im having similar problems with my b4 passat. Ive been bleeding the slave cylinder over and over probably 50 times, and the pedal either sticks to the floor or has tons of pressure built up and is extremely hard to push in. Ive done a clutch change recently and installed a stage two clutch and lightened flywheel, so I thought that stiff pedal feel was part of the new stage 2 clutch. However when I try to launch the car from a complete stop, as soon as i begin to let the clutch out the car stalls out. I'm at a loss, any suggestions? :banghead:
 

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hmm.. im still learning but from what I have been reading.. on the B4 you dont want to bleed it the old fashion way (Push on the brake Pedal all the way down) someone said it can damage the master seals.

I have also heard that Bleeding the clutch can be an issue as air bubbles just get trapped. I would really suggest both you guys get a power bleeder.. something like this guy

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_S4--V8/Search/Motul/ES1895871/

but for B4 passat. I have been using mine on my B6 Passat and I used it when we did our buddys 1.8T mk4 GTI clutch job. I first used the power bleeder.. then we pushed on the Clutch pedal (which it did get stuck to the bottom.. used our hand to pull it back out.) and held the pedal down and bleed the slave.

JT
 

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Bump for the same problem. My slave cylinder died on me about a year ago & after swapping it & pressure-bleeding the system, I'm still left with a lower-than-I'd-like clutch pedal. I haven't looked too far into it since it's only really a problem when my floor mat shifts far enough forward to get under the pedal. What I'd really like is about an inch of extra throw from a given press of the pedal. Any thoughts or input?
 

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Hydro clutches are always a pain to bleed. The best way I have found to do it is:

*Get a pressure bleeder!
*Pump it up to 10-15 psi
*Crack the bleed screw on the slave a few times. Make sure the fluid level doesn't go below "min"! The clutch fluid pickup is not at the bottom of the reservoir, its just below the "min" level, so if your clutch leaks out you are guaranteed to still have brake fluid to stop.
*With pressure still on the power bleeder, I pump the clutch pedal a dozen or so times.
*Rebleed the slave a few more times.
*If there is a bleeder on the master, I'll crack that with the power bleeder pressurized to 5-10 psi once or twice.
 

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Agreed get the power bleeder. It is a pain in the ass without it. Our Passats only have a bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder and not on the master slave cylinder. I bought this: http://www.germanautoparts.com/Tools/Volkswagen/Brake+tools
"Motive Brake Bleeder". Pressurized and bled the clutch after 4-5 turns of the slave cylinder bleed screw. :thumbup:
 

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I've got one of those, it was just in storage when I had to swap out the slave cyl. Ended up using my trusty ol' MityVac (and after 30 minutes, ended up using that as just a catch bottle) and gor 'er done. Somewhat. I do have a pressure bleader @ work too, so I may just try that next time I have the car in.
 
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