[JasonW1.8T]

You're correct. The 1.8T has a great aftermarket scene. Plenty of information and parts available online. I think the 1.9TDI, VR6 and 1.8T are the most modified VW engines, along with the EA888 platform.

With the PCV system, you considered deleting it all and installing a catch can?

It would be much nicer to have it looking cleaner.
Will this effect emissions test? That's the only thing I am not wanting to mess with.

Lots of possibilities.

 

[MiltDoggie]

It would be much nicer to have it looking cleaner.
Will this effect emissions test? That's the only thing I am not wanting to mess with.

Lots of possibilities.

Nope. You can do PCV delete without affecting the EGR or SAI stuff.

Where I used to live, anything NOT Original on the car that has not been Homologated on the Car Papers is illegal and will not pass inspections.
So I'd just remove the Catch Can and run 19mm (3/4 inch hose) from Crankcase to Valve cover, with a Tee, to Hockey Puck in TIP.
Install it like this just before the drive to inspections and take it off once you get back home. A 50 mile drive without Catch Can will not affect the engine.

Looking at your diagram/exploded view of PCV system. If hoses 9 and 12 are still in good condition, you can delete hose number 5 and run a 3/4 inch from hose number 2 to 9.
Have the engine cover installed it will look OEM but in reality you have a PCV delete done. I passed visual inspection like this no problem, but once again, I don't know if Canada does this.

 

[JasonW1.8T]

Nope. You can do PCV delete without affecting the EGR or SAI stuff.

Where I used to live, anything NOT Original on the car that has not been Homologated on the Car Papers is illegal and will not pass inspections.
So I'd just remove the Catch Can and run 19mm (3/4 inch hose) from Crankcase to Valve cover, with a Tee, to Hockey Puck in TIP.
Install it like this just before the drive to inspections and take it off once you get back home. A 50 mile drive without Catch Can will not affect the engine.

Looking at your diagram/exploded view of PCV system. If hoses 9 and 12 are still in good condition, you can delete hose number 5 and run a 3/4 inch from hose number 2 to 9.
Have the engine cover installed it will look OEM but in reality you have a PCV delete done. I passed visual inspection like this no problem, but once again, I don't know if Canada does this.

Many things to learn.
Im also receiving parts tomorrow. It's almost 3 months of it parked.
I'm planning on using it for my daily.
In the summer I'm gonna take things apart. Unless will see what happens.
I'd like to organize my learning and parts list to be completed earlier.
I almost forgot how that car rides. It's been that long.

 

[JasonW1.8T]

Nope. You can do PCV delete without affecting the EGR or SAI stuff.

Where I used to live, anything NOT Original on the car that has not been Homologated on the Car Papers is illegal and will not pass inspections.
So I'd just remove the Catch Can and run 19mm (3/4 inch hose) from Crankcase to Valve cover, with a Tee, to Hockey Puck in TIP.
Install it like this just before the drive to inspections and take it off once you get back home. A 50 mile drive without Catch Can will not affect the engine.

Looking at your diagram/exploded view of PCV system. If hoses 9 and 12 are still in good condition, you can delete hose number 5 and run a 3/4 inch from hose number 2 to 9.
Have the engine cover installed it will look OEM but in reality you have a PCV delete done. I passed visual inspection like this no problem, but once again, I don't know if Canada does this.

Thanks again for the instructions.
I'll have to look into our testing hear.
I do know that if there is a light on the dash it will fail

 

[JasonW1.8T]

Excited for you to get to reap the rewards of your hard work. I love the stock plus approach. The knowledge you gained is going to be very useful moving forward. Now that you have a knowledge base, it can be built on.

Jason unlocked "shade tree" Congratulations!!!!!!

Make sure to buy yourself some tools to make life easier too.

Oh, you should try this one too. Call the dealer and ask for quotes of all the work you have done. That is always a good feeling.

Yeah. The car moves better! Smooth wow!
Some tuning to be done!

 

[JasonW1.8T]

I

 

[airsoftsteven]

I View attachment 139716
View attachment 139715

Been enjoying following this thread. Reminds me of when I rebuilt the drive line in my mk4 a year or two ago and how much I learned in the process

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

 

[JasonW1.8T]

The car's alignment is off. I did take many things apart for that to happen. My biggest problem is the shifter, its not working properly. I am shifting in 3rd to go to 1st. I do understand that when I hooked up the newer transmission it already had problems being put back together because of 2 problems I have an idea of.
One I smashed the hect out of the other transmission. To get part 47 out. It was really stubborn. Part number 47.
Also this part was extremely tight when I moved it by hand back and forth(old transmission).
When I first installed it on the newer transmission. It was way tighter.
Then I bought new bushings, and it was a little better. Thought I'm only use one bushing. The other bushing was to tight. And I was hoping to do some tests to see if there's leaks or problem with belt or transmission.
The clutch is way better. Upgrades are worth it.
This is a really good car!
Thanks for all the help

 

[airsoftsteven]

The car's alignment is off. I did take many things apart for that to happen. My biggest problem is the shifter, its not working properly. I am shifting in 3rd to go to 1st. I do understand that when I hooked up the newer transmission it already had problems being put back together because of 2 problems I have an idea of.
One I smashed the hect out of the other transmission. To get part 47 out. It was really stubborn. Part number 47.
Also this part was extremely tight when I moved it by hand back and forth(old transmission).
When I first installed it on the newer transmission. It was way tighter.
Then I bought new bushings, and it was a little better. Thought I'm only use one bushing. The other bushing was to tight. And I was hoping to do some tests to see if there's leaks or problem with belt or transmission.
The clutch is way better. Upgrades are worth it.
This is a really good car!
Thanks for all the help View attachment 139720

Whenever I replace a part like that, I grease the pivot point. You'd be amazed what some high temp bearing grease can do...

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

 

[MiltDoggie]

You can do the alignment yourself if you have a flat spot to park. Run a string on either side of the car. Make the strings parallel to each other, and the car. Bunch of back and forth moving string posts (jack stands) and measuring from car to string to get it all lined up. with the steering wheel straight, set the toe on the front wheels straight and snug up the tie rod ends.

While some do like doing everything themselves doing an alignment is just something I wouldn't do myself.

I'll just let the shop do it with their fancy machines for 50 bucks

 

[JasonW1.8T]

50b ucks and 4x the time to do it at home

These cars are extremely simple. The alignment person loves you. In the stock form, there is only 1 thing to adjust. Front toe. Like a go cart. Set it straight and you are good to go.


here are the specs for anyone looking for alignment info

Wheel alignment specs for VW

VW alignment specs for camber caster and toe

www.myturbodiesel.com

Yeah doesn't look like that much work.
I'm gonna temp to find it myself!

 

[JasonW1.8T]

Yeah doesn't look like that much work.
I'm gonna temp to find it myself!

Yeah I've watched many videos. I'm gonna read some forums too.
This has got to be unbelievably easy to do. What was I doing before.
I talk with the forklift mechanic today. He was very impressed by some of the pictures I've showed him and laughed how a mechanic is not gonna make any money from me.
I also was asking him in the past if he could take me on as a apprentice. And I'd practice fixing forklifts. Now that he's seen how clean jetta has become. Will see. Good practice for future work. He also is gonna help me with his discount on parts. I've got the connection, finally.

 

[MiltDoggie]

These cars are extremely simple. The alignment person loves you. In the stock form, there is only 1 thing to adjust. Front toe. Like a go cart. Set it straight and you are good to go.

Watch me magically f**k it up one way or another lol

 

[JasonW1.8T]

If you have a laser level. It is possible to line that up to shoot straight down the middle of the car. I had mine on jack stands. I was able to create a line under the car the was exactly center. Then I measured off the line to adjust toe. Would need a flat and level parking spot for this to work, but if you mark the line on the sub frame it can be used easily from then on.

Now that I am typing this it occurred to me that if I put a jack under each ball joint the angles should be the same, or extremely close to, the car sitting on the ground. I may try that next time I do it.

This is a spot where you can use thread pitch to gauge distance. I think the tie rods are a 1.25m pitch. So every rotation is a 1.25mm in or out. In an alignment I would want to be within a 1/4 -1/2 turn of spot on. If you go in 1/2 turn increments you will land in that tolerance without going past.

on a tangent, when adjusting say a loose ball bicycle hub, like any shimano hub. The adjustment can be accurately made with the method above. Simply math out how many degrees is the acceptable tolerance (+/-.001 in )

shimano uses 9/10mm x 1mm axles
1mm is .03937 of an inch
there are 360deg in a circle
360 ____ T
---------- X -----------
.03937 __.002

T.03937 X .72

T= 18.288


So about 9 degrees of turn per thou of linear adjustment on a 1mm pitch thread

added underscore to try and keep the equation in line.

My laser level broke. Will see maybe I fix the laser first.
It's definitely a better tool to work with

 

[JasonW1.8T]

Watch me magically f**k it up one way or another lol

You should give it a go next time it is out. Worst case, you end up taking it to a shop like you would have anyways if you didn't try. It is a free bee **** up.



For me it takes a 13mm, 19mm and 21?mm (I have an sae wrench that got the grinder to do o2 sensors, its that size) wrenches. even on my lowered golf I can get in there and do the adjusting without a jack. Would be easy enough to throw them in the car and adjust , drive, adjust,.... Do a 1/4 turn a day for a month and I bet you find the perfect spot.

The worst I have done gave me bump steer.

Yeah that sounds cool.

 

[JasonW1.8T]

I found a shifter lever. Used $20. Not far away! Hope to buy that part and do the adjustment with the shifter

 

[MiltDoggie]

Coming along nicely!

 

[JasonW1.8T]

Coming along nicely!

Thanks

 

[JasonW1.8T]

Hey. Thought I'd say hi to everyone. I'm still in the process of waiting on a gentleman, to sell me a used lever bracket, I'll show a picture of what I need.

 

[cellno]

No junk yards around? I could ship you one from Texas!

What is wrong with the one you have? Can it be fixed? or "fixed"?