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I think these type of threads can be a good idea if the first page is continuously updated to reflect true and tried methods and info. A lot of the existing threads were WIP and the information is not always correct.

For #1 here is the axle length debacle for the + suspension in the MkIII or Corrado Vr (i.e. + susp)

Also, just remember that there is an AWD forum.
 

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Subframe/K-Frame, etc)


  1. As Rob mentioned, the Kframes are all interchangeable (pretty much). ..plus suspension, non-plus etc. You just need to keep the A Arms, Rack, sway bar and spindles consistent with the suspension width.
  2. The Mk3 KFrame has longer tail brackets (after the sway bar mount) that you can either shorten to match the Corrado or just drill a hole and use a washer or 2 between the body.
  3. The engine mount cup is about 3/16" taller than the Corrado VR. At least this is true for the Mk3 2L is because I measured and compared them. Not sure if the Mk3 Vr is taller or not, but either way it is not that significant.
  4. For a 4 Cyl, you will need to use the Aluminum Rear Engine bracket for the corresponding subframe. Mk3 with Mk3 (5 speed only), Mk2 with mk2 or G60. Needs to be modified to clear Syncro or get the Proper Syncro engine bracket. If you get the True Syncro rear engine bracket, make sure you use the subframe to match or else the bracket will not bolt to the mount properly (mk2/g60 uses 3 bolts, Mk3 uses one single bolt). I am not sure if there are 2 styles on the syncro brkt as you will have to ask someone in the know if they every made the MK3 style.
  5. 4cyls use the Vibration Dampening Weight welded to the front of the KFrame


Front Engine carrier/Cross member

To use the stronger VR style on a G60 or Mk2, you need either a Corrao VR, B3 VR or any B4 front Cross member. They are all the same and use the VR, Mk3 style engine mount. Note: B3 2L is the same as the G60/Mk2.

If you use the VR Cross member (as I will call it) on a 4cyl, then you must use the proper Front Engine bracket. The only model that will work directly is a MK3 Diesel 5 speed. It has the provision to bolt to the 02a/Syncro trans like all 02a's AND has the proper angle on the front that is suitable for said carrier. Mk2/G60 front engine brkts do not have the Correct Angle on the Front Engine brkt. There are pics of this in my build thread.

Hopefully this clarifies all of the Carrier/KFrame q's.
 

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You don't really "have" to weld to add 4x100 (provided you are not running the ABS rings), although it would be my pref. If you are ABS, then you do have to weld and redrill.

Adaptec sells (or used to) "Doubled up Hubs" that have both patterns drilled. Not sure if they are 4 cyl spline or 6 (seem to recall 4), but you may want to check with them as another potential option.

$100 per hub to have them resplined properly does not seem like a bad deal.
 

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Props to shawn and his mounts! They fit perfectly and are well made.
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I prefer his style to the dutch dub mount because it also mounts to the side of the transmission casing.
Thanks! I have seen too many bosses break off of the top of the trans for various reasons (a lot the time it is user error). That side strut eliminates any chance of that completely (regardless of the cause).
 

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02m Axle Spline 02a Axle spline, so you can not just use a G60 outer on the 02m axle


...unless you machine and weld the end of the 02a axle onto the 02m axle to form a hybrid merge.

The 02m outer CV does have the same outer hub spline as the VR, but the physical axle splines are different where the CV attaches to the axle.
 

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Yea, you definitely turned it clockwise a little (standing in front of the car). It should be ok, but if you didn't clock it slightly and would have trimmed off that front lip/edge on the cup and the mount (i.e. Flush with the main part of the cup) you wouldn't have had to move it back so far.

As long as the tab for the PS lines brkt doesn't hit the frame rail on the DS, you should be ok. Too far back and you can get awfully close to the rack.

When I do them, you usually just see the edge of the through hole on the main subframe out the front. There is plenty of leeway with the mount itself though, so you should be ok..
 

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Yea, I shortened those rear straps on my mkIII subframe as well. I took a section out and rewelded. No one would be the wiser.

Also put in the 02m shifter. I dont mind the height it sits at so I won't be cutting it down. Made me realize I need a new shift knob :D.
That is because you must have the TT box (which is the fist I have actually seen a picture of personally). See how it is low and has that offset? 02j and 02m from MkIV is just a straight long shaft which is waay too tall for the corrado (IMO). ....unless of course you have dinosaur arms :p



after

 

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Bump... with some ideas for discussion.

I am thinking about ditching the 02m mount I am using right now in favour of welding on a later framerail mount. This would allow for far easier access to the bolt. As it sits the power steering lines make it near impossible to tighten the trans mount bolt.

If I used a framerail mount I could also shift over the entire engine/ transmission in preparation for a 5 cylinder. I don't know if I have the balls to do that yet though- might just make up an altered p/s line right now so I can finish bolting in the engine. Should have a better look at it once I get back home at Christmas.

I think I might start on the rear beam if I am bored over Christmas. :beer:
Just re-bend the PS lines. Ironic that I actually took a pic of the Bracket I made for mine just last week. I will post up the pic when I update my thread.

Going to Cradle mounts are a nightmare. It has been done a few times, but to do it, you need to:
  • Severely cut and weld boxed in pockets in the frame rails to prevent the engine from sitting waaay to high
  • Modify a MkIV K frame to work or come up with a creative design for the lower Dogbone which is a must
  • etc... etc...

Seriously, I had given this much thought before going this route. You will end up with a much weaker setup. The only advantage is vibration control at idle (who really cares about that :laugh: ).

After looking at the projects of the people who did, I am very glad I did not.. Check out the Red Rallye Golf project (iirc he went that route)
 

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The original post is leaving out a couple of key things to know when doing the swap. If you are doing thus on a 12v you need to swap the thermostat housing to a 24v housing and you also need to cut both rear motor mount and trans mount down 1/2" to get the center shaft to sit in the tunnel correctly. If you don't you are going to wear out the guiebo things. That's all I have to offer as of now as I'm sure I'm gonna come across more as I progress in my swap.
Did you use the Corrado Subframe or the Mk3? Reason I ask is the Corrado VR SF mounts are 1/4" lower than the Mk3 4 cyl SF (Never had a Mk3 VR, so I dunno, but suspect the same)
 
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