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yes, a lot of work indeed,
I'll say! I really admire anyone who can see a project like that all the way through. Anything that takes me more than a few days always gets me calculating what it would cost to put everything on a flat bed and send it to someone else to finish. :laugh:


 

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Hey guys I don't want to hijack this thread but I've been running 02m with usp line and a corrado g60 clutch master and the clutch release way to high at the top of the stroke. I've had the stock clutch with FST Singlemass 20LBS flywheel and then changed it the clutch for a clutchmaster stage 1. the clutch release at the same height as the old one. I was wondering what is you experience with o2m setup, g60 master cylinder ? If find it hard to drive especially on hills because the stroke is so long it's like it's never going to catch and it finaly catch when the pedal is almost all the way up. I'm not sure what to do with this. I'm wondering if it could be because I put some kind of shim behind the flywheel that was originaly there with the old flywheel, anyone knows what the stock shim behind the flywheel are used for ? Do you use them ?
 

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02m disengagement point is normally quite high up compared to the 02j/02a gear. In a mk4 it feels very comfortable and sharper than clutching in half a foot, lol. in a mk2 chassis that becomes incredibly awkward, as the clutch pedal is much higher than in a mk4 (almost have to kick your knee up to do it). This is one of the many reasons i swapped in a mk4 firewall into my mk2... to get the more modern pedal positioning for the clutch. I have a pic somewhere of the mk2 and mk4 pedal sets side-by-side and the only difference is really in the clutch projection from firewall toward driver.

having that extra shim behind the flywheel would raise the engagement point a tad, but not make a massive difference. Those shims are really only intended for the automatics - they shim the flex plates into a certain range of distance from transmission for the matching torque converter. remove them and throw away for conversion to a manual transmission (in general). in particular, the 24v vr6 engines had rather thick shims in some applications.

another thing you could do to recreate a better pedal feel, is to install one of the small clutch line "thingy's". they amplify the clutch response on the pedal, giving a bit more travel --- its actually doing that in reverse to give you mechanical advantage on the pressure plate, so the stock clutch feels lighter than it really is. i have this installed in my mk2 and it feels as soft as my 1.8t A4 B6 avant's clutch, yet its a heavy-duty beef eating clutch setup on an 02m flywheel :)

this is the thinger-majoodle i am referring to:



not sure on the correct name for the part, but they attach directly to the mk4 slave cylinder, the clutch hose comes out of that. long distance in = short distance out (fluid travel), so there's the mechanical advantage, also results in increased pedal travel compared to master cylidner directly on clutch hose. I believe the internals have mis-matched bore sizes to acheive this.



hope this helps. in summary, remove the shims, install one of these. remember that 02m has a very very different pedal feel compared to the earlier 5-speeds, and that is correct for that gear.
 

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Thanks for this post it helped me a lot with decision about doing this conversion in my corrado. Bought Passat g60 Syncro parts car last month for drivetrain and golf 3 variant syncro TDI for fuel tank, boot floor and the cast iron mounting brackets.
 

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Thanks for this post it helped me a lot with decision about doing this conversion in my corrado. Bought Passat g60 Syncro parts car last month for drivetrain and golf 3 variant syncro TDI for fuel tank, boot floor and the cast iron mounting brackets.
Happy that it helped!! Hope to update it in 5 or 10 years once I get around to working on the rear end.
 
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