[Sharino]

I have a VR6 Corrado, R32 transmission, 1st gen Haldex, Audi TT driveshaft, B3 rear subframe, dutchbuild syncro-haldex kit. All ready to weld up, mocked up in place.

Question, does anybody know how important it is for the driveshaft to be perfectly straight? I tried to put the center bearing as high as it can, but its still at a slight angle. Since it looks like its a CV style joint, not a U joint in the middle, is this ok? I assume on a R32 or Audi TT its sitting perfectly straight. Can anybody confirm?

 

[stef 4x4]

I have a VR6 Corrado, R32 transmission, 1st gen Haldex, Audi TT driveshaft, B3 rear subframe, dutchbuild syncro-haldex kit. All ready to weld up, mocked up in place.

Question, does anybody know how important it is for the driveshaft to be perfectly straight? I tried to put the center bearing as high as it can, but its still at a slight angle. Since it looks like its a CV style joint, not a U joint in the middle, is this ok? I assume on a R32 or Audi TT its sitting perfectly straight. Can anybody confirm?

It is not important, a slight angle is'nt a problem. Because the engine/gearbox combination is turning to the front and rear while driving the driveshaft at the gearbox joint goes up and down. The CV joint in the middle can handle this easy.

 

[GreasySideDown]

Bit late to this party but I have some info for this since I recently did a 3-piece custom shaft in my Haldex B4 swap. My angles are all over the place. I suggest putting the rear diff in by eyeball, just make sure it clears your floorpan. I believe Corrado and B4 were similar pans. The coupler ring on my diff is only 1/4" from the floor but it doesn't cause any trouble. That rubber guibo thingy can handle quite a bit of off-axis and since they are on all quattro TT's you'll always have parts available if you wear one out.