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G60 corrado
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My corrado g60 1990 sat for 16 years. Basically what it is doing is it fires up and runs good in neutral, but when I go down the road it feels slow and if I go past half throttle (3k rpm) the car sputters and stalls and or barely runs…once I limp it to a stop and put it in neutral it revs to about 4k and then sputters. If I immiedietly shut the key off and back on it runs good in neutral again but does the same thing on the road. Sometimes it backfires also.
So far I’ve replaced
Ecu( made it run a lot better than it was when I first got the car)
Bts
Cleaned grounds
Ecu vacuum line(fcr euro cut it a bit short of a meter but it seems to runs the same as always.
Misc. vac lines
O2 sensor
Fixed frayed 02 wiring
Injectors
Injector harness
Tested co pot
Inspected cap and rotor
There’s more in forgetting but Jesus this car is litterly impossible to fix nothing makes a lick of change
 

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Does it have a boost or vacuum gauge?

Have you put new fuel in?

A clogged cat will cause the car to not rev above a certain rpm.

Back when I drove a g60 I would replace cap/rotor/plugs/wires regularly and advise you to do that.

I would run copper NGK B8ES and I replaced them every year or 10k miles. Get wires/cap/rotor/plugs with a lifetime warranty from FCP Euro

Good luck
 

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G60 corrado
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes it has new fuel. Thanks for the reply. A clogged cat seems very possible but it has loads of air coming out the tail pipe does that sound like a clogged cat? I will check the cap and rotor and see what happens
 

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Just unplug the o2 sensor for now to eliminate it. The ECU will access a stored fuel map (rich), but the engine will run fine without it for diagnostics purposes. That’ll also eliminate any closed-loop changeover issues.

I would also crawl under the dash and R&I all the ground wires on the bus. After 16 years It’s likely some have fretted on the post. The wiring on a 30yo car can be just as guilty as any component, so unplug everything to scrape away corrosion.
 

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You can also spray contact cleaner into the connectors and on loose male or female terminals (pins, contacts). Everything electrical that can be disconnected. Let the spray dry before reassembling it.

I sprayed the shirt out of my big round connector under the hood once and "fixed" an intermittent engine problem. That round connector needs replacing (both sides) but the fix lasted until I put the C in storage.
 

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Probably out of time. They like to mess up the keyway on the crankshaft.. could remedy by drilling and pinning in right location. Just put top dead center tool in cyl 1 and see if notch lines up on crank pulley to cover when the cyl 1 piston is at TDC.. or it’s just a wiped out charger. Good luck I’ve had bot that happen to me over the 25 years I’ve had corrados, they are both easy fixes. One is just a little more cheddar than the other.
 

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Orig owner 90 g60, 02 allroad 6SP M w/ 3rd Row, 07 3X White NB Vert, 09 Escalade ESV Plat to tow em
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Torn diaphragm in the fpr likely. Check those gooey, gummy fuel lines for leaks constantly until your 1000% sure they’re not waiting to spray the compartment with fuel.

Good time to shop for a halon fire extinguisher on eBay. They’re banned for sale new but that’s the only one that will put out the fire and not permanently spray white flocking all over an engine fire.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Good time to shop for a halon fire extinguisher on eBay. They’re banned for sale new but that’s the only one that will put out the fire and not permanently spray white flocking all over an engine fire.
The element fire extinguisher also doesn’t leave a dry chemical residue. I speak from real world experience. You see I’m listed in the customer testimonials: Models
 
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