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15,080 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I started to pull a couple things to install my scavenger setup I built to rid myself of a catch can too:

Next thing I know:

Just nasty

I couldn't make heads or tails of the body work as the raw steel has so many highs and lows of reflections when raw, so after guesstimating and by feel laid by etching primer and continued:

Repeat that a few times.

Much more expensive then paint, zero heat soak, quieter ride, won't chip flake or peel and built proof. Very high gloss/shine, it looks 100% wet to the touch all the time, yet otherwise pretty smooth with zero highs or lows, chunks, or discrepancies. Full re-seam sealed. The entire bay is seamless, firewall was welded flush and smoothed out, there are no body lines or seams left.

All fresh uni-body, hood, body plugs

2008CC Stroker 06A (originally 058), full ARP hardware, 100% all brand new internals, +1 Ferrea full valve train kit on brand new head, angle job, mild p&p, IECVA2 Version 2 cams, INA Dampener......with AC conversion custom built by Issam, custom serpentine belt system (note how low the alternator is), full enamel coated block, head, and components, full ceramic coated bolts, nuts and fasteners, custom billet pulley system, custom scavenger system on AGN head (as seen above), full BSH v-band ceramic coated hot side exhaust components downpipe, V-band 5552 Turbo (forgot off the top of my head, it's basically a fullsize modern GT2871R Eliminator on crack converted toTial V-band), Maestro, IE Intake manifold (ignore the manifold below), Tr11 Treadstone, Methanol stage 2 injection, intercooler atomization kit, Tial 50mm v-band, wastegate etc, etc.....

Custom made lower alternator system with hard to find alternator:

Moving or already in battery tray (battery moved to back) : Full abs with all lines, full custom p/s set up, battery cable and circuit breaker system, full harness and fuel lines will be in the battery tray, custom ac system will travel under the car, full brake booster line conversion tuck. Basically, there will be absolutey nothing touching, bolted or touching the entire engine bay except for the DBC cable coming out of the false fire wall (brand new in package, with brand new mount hardware).

100% of every bolt, fastener, washer, bolt has been sandblasted and ceramic coated, nothing goes back on the car unless new or completely refurbished including the oem rubber seals/ac fresh air box/etc (all cleaned, stripped and re-dyed black).

15,080 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
There's tray after tray after tray of bolts, nuts, and nicknacks:


10,028 Posts


Thats a very pretty engine :thumbup:

Euro mk3 Golf alternator?

15,080 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
It maybe the same part (as VAG shares parts), it's not available in the US, I had to call around Canada to find it. I do know it's for non-ac equipped cars.

I'd bring everything to a good polish before laying the enimal.


15,080 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Every piece, polished, reconditioned and ceramic coated with all fresh seals from the U.K., even redyed the little bleeder boots [:D]

Turned and coated:

Take the oem abs bracket:

Weld, cut, modify and coat:

Find a home:

All fresh fasteners and hardware:

Coated stainless steal APR exhaust, cleaned up fresh unibody channel heat sheilds:

New ECU Box and seal:

Astro 1427 Rivnut tool:

I got pretty much sick and tired of using my mouth to hold an led flashlight, or balance a led puck light on my chest when underneath so:

100' of 18G wire, x6 2 packs of 5000K waterproof drl's, hand full of led male/female quick releases connectors:

Made a steal switch / wiring / activator housing:

Laid down a coat of pure white on the hood, 3 coats of clear, all fresh hood grommets and died deep black so richer then the dull oem black, ran the wiring through the hood to 2 drls that will point down at the motor however not visible otherwise, reconditioned locking mechanism, used those fancy countersunk billet fasteners for the whole thing, sound deadening, and an extra bonus in the works :

Taken at midnight, blacked out garage, no flash on the phone or help in lighting:

All with a dinky motorcycle battery for a bench test. The lighting is otherwise all hidden so nothing is in your face (unless underneath), instant on/off with opening/closing of hood with a rocker switch to turn them off if working during the day. Zero visible wiring including the hood and ran through the entire unibody (took 7 hours just running the wire). What you're seeing is a total of 6 on. That's more then enough, there will also be one in each fender well, so if screwing with tie rods, coilovers, flat tire, or what ever instant light. 1 by itself, is brighter that any flashlight I have.

So here is my custom low alternator setup which is about a foot below the normal spot:

But thought, hell, let's go more nuts, even lower and even cleaner. I looked around, it doesn't exist what I want, which is to place the alternator at or below the p/s pump next to the oil pan.....so I made it:

So you're getting rid of power steering? Nope, electric pump conversion which will be hidden and now I can delete the 2 hydraulic hoses running down the drivers frame rail to what was the oem pump, use a shorter belt and have even more space, cleaner and less clutter:


10,028 Posts
I have the same electric PS pump in my track car :thumbup::)

15,080 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
- Flushed and finished all brakes.
- Drained and vacuumed out tank, new fuel lines front to back, Walbro fuel pump, 40A relay upgrade kit, re-rubberized undercarriage, reconditioned brackets, new Bosch fuel filter:

A trick I've done on other cars, is opposed to running endless wiring looms up into the rain tray, across to the ecu box (the into the cab entry point) which pop into the OEM rats nest above the pedals is find the sweet spot from the fenders into the cab. Now no more lowering the lower dash, keeping things more organized, and preventing creating an even bigger rats nest above the pedals. Hole sawed, touched up with paint, proper grommets:

I took the 10" long plastic harness assembly that's visible inside the engine bay with a rats nest of wires going to it, shaved down, cut in half and piggybacked it to cut down on it's footprint. Brought it inside the rain tray, loomed all the wiring, which will be covered regardless with a rain tray cover. A6 strut bar reconditioned, dampening adjuster dials:

Not something I'd want to do for a living, it's one thing to measure maxing out suspension for off road, another to nail precisely to prevent body lift and accounting for strap stretch, but done! 😀

Van Buren Industries aluminum front end conversion

Of all connections, I settled with v-band to match everything else, welding everything up:

VB custom 06A snub mount with p/u bushing:

VB latch brace system:

Mocked up:

Aluminium thick core radiator:

- Redline MT90 GTX transmission flush
- Dakota VSS speedo module arrived
- Hours & hours of fun messy messy trimming the RS4 bumper and test fitting 25+ times as the radiator & fmic set further infront of the car then normal, having to clearance for ic pipes too.

Shaved down and reconditioned sway bar with Powerflex upgrade:

Greystone custom made boost controller lines:

Engine torque damper system:

Test fitting intake system with billet maf holder:

On A4's even with specifically built FMIC kits removing the bumper required removing the silicone fmic couplings to reach the underside ~8" long bumper bolts. When I finalized the ic piping v-bands the problem occurred immediately to access the 2 bolts, having to pulling apart all the charge pipes...plus everything that was bolted and permanently welded to them...just to access 2 bolts. Where silicone couplings could be pushed outta the way, v-bands had zero give. So that meant taking off the bumper meant taking apart the car.

I looked how the bumper mount rear system worked, inverted it, made changes and now......drop the bolts down from the top, hidden behind billet access caps:

With the aluminum radiator so thick it advanced forward so much it consumed all the space, with limited space for the intake and oil cooler their locations didn't allow for cool air so:

Oil cooler:

Intake and air horns:

So...I'm rocking one of the largest fmic possible....with 60%+ of it covered behind a bumper exposed to zero air so:

2' sheet of ABS plastic, aluminum stock and professional grade aluminum round grill plate for a custom bumper grill to match the side grills will take the place of the large hole (kinda like a B7):

Starting to reform the side walls and fill in those side slots

"The last 10% takes 90% of the time." - Unknown

- No fuel: Fuel pump relay wiring diagram was wrong from the retailer
- No steering: Time delay relay wiring diagram was wrong from retailer
- No gear engagement and no brakes: May it be Arizona dry rot, apparently "exposed to hydraulic fluid, then prolonged exposure to air" ruined all three hydraulic cylinders and ruined all the seals...which took quiet some time to figure out as all three were top tier shape and working perfect so went over everything else mutiple times. I now know to store future cylinders in fluid, in a sealed ziplock.
- No volts: My custom made alternator doesn't wire like an oem, and they gave no insight or heads up.

All addressed

- No start: Had smashed valves from previous owner, rebuilt full head

And...we have first start! ......then.....boil over.

- Overheating: This one really got me, even thinking full tear down maybe block damage and brainstormed and brainstormed and...and wtf it's like all the first issues till I figured it out...all three thermostat diagrams I looked over...were wrong :thumbdown:. Yes, the installation diagrams have installation backwards so the wax chamber within the thermostat can't melt at 200F allowing the spring to open: This photo, is wrong...just like everything before.

And....we have have first real start, idle and drive:

Remade the coolant system which allows full access to the block:

Blacked out garage, all lights off, no flash, here's the bay lighting system:

Got the first 01X trans swap up and running, all gears, smooth reverse everything in gauges.

Cut out the tire wheel well hump and smoothed out, deadener, made this set up. One tank for methanol injection, water for fmic spray bar.

Made a spray bar, wired off a boost hobbs switch and ~90psi pump..
anything over ~4psi and it starts spraying:

Made a smoke machine:

Designed a different spray bar:

Finilized the floating FMIC system

Took a sheet of abs plastic, made a miniature box, containing a DPDT switch so I can monitor volts standing still, volts at acc, and volts while running...w/o current being able to jump spectrums.

Q 50mm

Switching to a cotterless pin and wing nut system to I can pull the entire front end off in less then 5 minutes, even if needed to do so roadside.

Added 4 pusher fans, modified hood latch assembly to clear:
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