CV Boot Replacement
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Re: CV Boot Replacement (kraim)
How many miles? Any clicking?
if the outter joint (assuming it's the outter) is still good, why replace it, just slap a new boot on there and go.
How many miles? Any clicking?
if the outter joint (assuming it's the outter) is still good, why replace it, just slap a new boot on there and go.
Re: CV Boot Replacement (kraim)
If I catch the CV boot cracking and not actually torn open and leaking, I'll have the boot replaced. If the boot is open and leaking grease, I have no way to know how long it's been open or how contaminated. Past experience has led me to have the half shaft replaced when in this situation. YMMV....
If I catch the CV boot cracking and not actually torn open and leaking, I'll have the boot replaced. If the boot is open and leaking grease, I have no way to know how long it's been open or how contaminated. Past experience has led me to have the half shaft replaced when in this situation. YMMV....
Re: CV Boot Replacement (Altair 4)
I've replaced torn boots soon after grease starts coating the wheels for years and had no problems...If you drive around for months and the joint goes almost dry and dirt collects inside you're toast...but if the joint is still thickly coated with grease chances are very good that it hasn't been damaged...in my experience. You can get good german boot kits from Autohaus AZ for about $15-20 each (I replace the inner boot too while I have outer joint off. I just take off outer joint, then inner boot..leave inner joint on axle (they are not real CV's on the front axles at least, but "tripoid" joints and ez to clean with just solvent and rags/que tips etc) Regrease inner joint, slide inner boot along axle (dont' forget to tape over outer joint splines to protect boot sealing area for both inner and outer boots)..Then I clean outer joint, install outer boot and hammer on the outer joint by putting old axle bolt in and hittin on that) Rebuilding axle takes about 1-2 hours to do good job on cleaning and repacking joints...I use a ceramic tile nipper to crimp the boot clamps..works like a charm. Whole job is about 3 hours including cleaning grease off brake caliper, wheel etc...Dealer quoted me $410 to do both boots, $308 to do just the outer one!
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So after spending $35 on boot kits and a few bucks on a can of brake clean and some solvent...you make about $350 (after taxes) for 3 hours work..not too shabby! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
PS: Order all 4 boot kits..you'll be doing the other axle shortly..it was less than 6 months between failure of first outer joint and the second for me..plus ordering all 4 boots gets you free shipping for order over $50!
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Modified by spitpilot at 9:02 AM 1-11-2008
I've replaced torn boots soon after grease starts coating the wheels for years and had no problems...If you drive around for months and the joint goes almost dry and dirt collects inside you're toast...but if the joint is still thickly coated with grease chances are very good that it hasn't been damaged...in my experience. You can get good german boot kits from Autohaus AZ for about $15-20 each (I replace the inner boot too while I have outer joint off. I just take off outer joint, then inner boot..leave inner joint on axle (they are not real CV's on the front axles at least, but "tripoid" joints and ez to clean with just solvent and rags/que tips etc) Regrease inner joint, slide inner boot along axle (dont' forget to tape over outer joint splines to protect boot sealing area for both inner and outer boots)..Then I clean outer joint, install outer boot and hammer on the outer joint by putting old axle bolt in and hittin on that) Rebuilding axle takes about 1-2 hours to do good job on cleaning and repacking joints...I use a ceramic tile nipper to crimp the boot clamps..works like a charm. Whole job is about 3 hours including cleaning grease off brake caliper, wheel etc...Dealer quoted me $410 to do both boots, $308 to do just the outer one!
PS: Order all 4 boot kits..you'll be doing the other axle shortly..it was less than 6 months between failure of first outer joint and the second for me..plus ordering all 4 boots gets you free shipping for order over $50!
Modified by spitpilot at 9:02 AM 1-11-2008
Re: CV Boot Replacement (spitpilot)
i recently replaced just an outer boot on my driveshaft, certainly check to see if there is any grit or dirt in the grease and if all looks well and there isno clicking i say replace the boot, seems to be wasting money in my opinion to replace the whole shaft for just a little rubber boot.
Yes it's a little messy but you'll probably get dirty removing it anyway... i would also check the brake pads as mine were covered and i had to replace them, flying grease tens to go a very very long way
i recently replaced just an outer boot on my driveshaft, certainly check to see if there is any grit or dirt in the grease and if all looks well and there isno clicking i say replace the boot, seems to be wasting money in my opinion to replace the whole shaft for just a little rubber boot.
Yes it's a little messy but you'll probably get dirty removing it anyway... i would also check the brake pads as mine were covered and i had to replace them, flying grease tens to go a very very long way
Re: CV Boot Replacement (spitpilot)
A week ago put 17" Huffs on my girlfriends 01 Passat 1.8T and discovered this
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need to replace CV boots on both sides ASAP. Anyone know front axle bolt torq specification, and where to get socket to get out axle bolt, cause it's different from regular axle bolt
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Here is the bolt
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Modified by KoF at 10:58 PM 1-12-2008
A week ago put 17" Huffs on my girlfriends 01 Passat 1.8T and discovered this
need to replace CV boots on both sides ASAP. Anyone know front axle bolt torq specification, and where to get socket to get out axle bolt, cause it's different from regular axle bolt
Here is the bolt
Modified by KoF at 10:58 PM 1-12-2008
Re: CV Boot Replacement (KoF)
The axle bolt is either 14mm or 17mm. Measure it.
I got mine from http://www.metalnerd.com
"If the replacement driveaxle/hub bolt is a 14mm hex, tighten to 85 ft-lbs / 115 Nm with a torque wrench. Then switch to a breaker bar (ratchetless socket wrench with a cheater bar, etc) to tighten the bolt an additional 1/2 turn. Note that the final tightening is not something you want to subject to a ratcheting mechanism. A 17mm hex bolt should be tightened to 140 ft-lbs / 190 Nm + 1/2 turn."
From http://www.taligentx.com/passa...oints/
The axle bolt is either 14mm or 17mm. Measure it.
I got mine from http://www.metalnerd.com
"If the replacement driveaxle/hub bolt is a 14mm hex, tighten to 85 ft-lbs / 115 Nm with a torque wrench. Then switch to a breaker bar (ratchetless socket wrench with a cheater bar, etc) to tighten the bolt an additional 1/2 turn. Note that the final tightening is not something you want to subject to a ratcheting mechanism. A 17mm hex bolt should be tightened to 140 ft-lbs / 190 Nm + 1/2 turn."
From http://www.taligentx.com/passa...oints/
Re: CV Boot Replacement (ctobio)
Great DIY, thanks for help http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
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| Quote, originally posted by ctobio » |
| The axle bolt is either 14mm or 17mm. Measure it. I got mine from http://www.metalnerd.com "If the replacement driveaxle/hub bolt is a 14mm hex, tighten to 85 ft-lbs / 115 Nm with a torque wrench. Then switch to a breaker bar (ratchetless socket wrench with a cheater bar, etc) to tighten the bolt an additional 1/2 turn. Note that the final tightening is not something you want to subject to a ratcheting mechanism. A 17mm hex bolt should be tightened to 140 ft-lbs / 190 Nm + 1/2 turn." From http://www.taligentx.com/passa...oints/ |
Great DIY, thanks for help http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
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