CV Joint Replacement - 91 Cabriolet
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Generally, the outers are "easier" than inners unless you have the motor/trans out. If the joints are exceedingly difficult to manipulate by hand or if you hear any grinding noises or the boots look as though they have been torn for a long time, they should likely be replaced. The only "special" tools you need are a (21mm?, I believe) socket and a looooong breaker bar and a 6mm triple square socket for the flange bolts. It is time consuming and very messy, but if I could do it, so can you.
Re: CV Joint Replacement - 91 Cabriolet (lacorvino)
Follow the links on this page...... http://germanautoparts.com/Vol...train
You'll find that complete new axles are only $20 more than one inner joint, only $10 more than an outer.
To change, loosen the outer nut while the wheels are on the ground, there's more working clearance with the wheels off, so loosen the lugs at the same time.
Get the car up on JACK STANDS, finish removing the outer stub axle nut, leave the wheels on for now.
Find the 12 point triple square socket head bolts holding the inners to the drive flanges of the transaxle, dig out ALL the road grime and icky guck from the socket heads. Seat your 12 point triple square socket firmly with a hammer, NO, you cannot use a 6mm Allen. Hold the wheel from rotating, loosen all 6 12 points fully, then remove the wheel(s).
On the right side, there's a heat shield in the way, you've likely found and removed it by this point of the job. Push the inner joint straight up, hold it up with a bungee, rope, whatever, drive the stub axle in towards the center of the car 'till it fully clears the hub. The axle is now clear to snake out of there.
The left side is similar, if it's a manual trans, except you can't raise the inner joint straight up. Until you release either end of the shift rod that's in the way, swing that out of the way and continue the shaft removal.
It's been a looong time since I've done an automatic, seems popping the ball joint loose from the steering knuckle gives adequate clearance for removing the shaft.
If it's a manual trans
Follow the links on this page...... http://germanautoparts.com/Vol...train
You'll find that complete new axles are only $20 more than one inner joint, only $10 more than an outer.
To change, loosen the outer nut while the wheels are on the ground, there's more working clearance with the wheels off, so loosen the lugs at the same time.
Get the car up on JACK STANDS, finish removing the outer stub axle nut, leave the wheels on for now.
Find the 12 point triple square socket head bolts holding the inners to the drive flanges of the transaxle, dig out ALL the road grime and icky guck from the socket heads. Seat your 12 point triple square socket firmly with a hammer, NO, you cannot use a 6mm Allen. Hold the wheel from rotating, loosen all 6 12 points fully, then remove the wheel(s).
On the right side, there's a heat shield in the way, you've likely found and removed it by this point of the job. Push the inner joint straight up, hold it up with a bungee, rope, whatever, drive the stub axle in towards the center of the car 'till it fully clears the hub. The axle is now clear to snake out of there.
The left side is similar, if it's a manual trans, except you can't raise the inner joint straight up. Until you release either end of the shift rod that's in the way, swing that out of the way and continue the shaft removal.
It's been a looong time since I've done an automatic, seems popping the ball joint loose from the steering knuckle gives adequate clearance for removing the shaft.
If it's a manual trans
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Re: CV Joint Replacement - 91 Cabriolet (tolusina)
Didn't have to pull the ball joint, there is clearance, it is tight. It is a 8mm triple square, and the axle nut is 30 or 32mm If you don't have a impact, a 1/2 inch breaker bar 6 inch extension, and a 5 foot piece of steel pipe that fits over your breaker bar works wonders.....
To get to the drivers side trippsquares I went through the wheel well. did one at a time.....
Read Ron's words CLEAN THE HEADS OUT USE a DENTAL TOOL and Brake Clean, then insert the tool and Tap it fully in with a hammer..
If you strip them don't come crying to us...
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Use a small pair of vice grips and hit the vice grips with a hammer.....
| Quote, originally posted by tolusina » |
It's been a looong time since I've done an automatic, seems popping the ball joint loose from the steering knuckle gives adequate clearance for removing the shaft. |
Didn't have to pull the ball joint, there is clearance, it is tight. It is a 8mm triple square, and the axle nut is 30 or 32mm If you don't have a impact, a 1/2 inch breaker bar 6 inch extension, and a 5 foot piece of steel pipe that fits over your breaker bar works wonders.....
To get to the drivers side trippsquares I went through the wheel well. did one at a time.....
Read Ron's words CLEAN THE HEADS OUT USE a DENTAL TOOL and Brake Clean, then insert the tool and Tap it fully in with a hammer..
If you strip them don't come crying to us...
Re: CV Joint Replacement - 91 Cabriolet (briano1234)
when I did mine (last week), I did, indeed, strip one of the bolts, which compounded the PITA factor tenfold. Luckily, the boot kit s I purchased from GAP included new ones, but you should definitely heed the advice by the above posts, it will save you hours of work if you clean inside the bolt heads properly.
when I did mine (last week), I did, indeed, strip one of the bolts, which compounded the PITA factor tenfold. Luckily, the boot kit s I purchased from GAP included new ones, but you should definitely heed the advice by the above posts, it will save you hours of work if you clean inside the bolt heads properly.
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Re: CV Joint Replacement - 91 Cabriolet (dwl124)
Not a terribly bad job and I recommend just replacing the entire axle (halfshaft) instead of individual joints... Doesn't cost all that much more and so much simpler. Some recommend replacing the six drive flange bolts even if the heads are not stripped but I've done it both ways with no problems. Just be sure to properly torque everything when it's time to put things back together (one doesn't want to replace a wheel bearing, trust me! lol)...
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Not a terribly bad job and I recommend just replacing the entire axle (halfshaft) instead of individual joints... Doesn't cost all that much more and so much simpler. Some recommend replacing the six drive flange bolts even if the heads are not stripped but I've done it both ways with no problems. Just be sure to properly torque everything when it's time to put things back together (one doesn't want to replace a wheel bearing, trust me! lol)...
Re: CV Joint Replacement - 91 Cabriolet (dwl124)
True words have never been posted.
I would also recommend just replacing the whole shaft. But I will disagree with the price difference posted. You can indeed get rebuilt shafts for the prices posted but after going through 5 of these lifetime guaranteed rebuilt shafts I'll now only use the new shafts from German Auto Parts, last I checked they were about $110.
Steve
| Quote, originally posted by dwl124 » |
| when I did mine (last week), I did, indeed, strip one of the bolts, which compounded the PITA factor tenfold. Luckily, the boot kit s I purchased from GAP included new ones, but you should definitely heed the advice by the above posts, it will save you hours of work if you clean inside the bolt heads properly. |
True words have never been posted.
I would also recommend just replacing the whole shaft. But I will disagree with the price difference posted. You can indeed get rebuilt shafts for the prices posted but after going through 5 of these lifetime guaranteed rebuilt shafts I'll now only use the new shafts from German Auto Parts, last I checked they were about $110.
Steve
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Re: CV Joint Replacement - 91 Cabriolet (sehaare)
If you're referring to the Empi halfshafts, one might also want to check http://www.carmadillo.com/. I just found Empi there for a bit less. Shipping costs/time were comparable to GAP.
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I thought I might "get by" with reman shafts, too, and ordered a GSP from RockAuto.com. It arrived with the inner CV joint apart and balls rolling about in the box, grease all over the place... After contacting Rock Auto, I told them I was going to put it back together in a Walmart bag with a rubber band and return it (even the original axle-length bag was torn open). I will hand it to Rock Auto, though, for they have always been excellent regarding returns, etc., and this case was no different. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Tis what I get for not doing the right thing to begin with, though... Sometimes I need lil reminders 'bout such things...
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| Quote, originally posted by sehaare » |
...I'll now only use the new shafts from German Auto Parts, last I checked they were about $110. Steve |
If you're referring to the Empi halfshafts, one might also want to check http://www.carmadillo.com/. I just found Empi there for a bit less. Shipping costs/time were comparable to GAP.
I thought I might "get by" with reman shafts, too, and ordered a GSP from RockAuto.com. It arrived with the inner CV joint apart and balls rolling about in the box, grease all over the place... After contacting Rock Auto, I told them I was going to put it back together in a Walmart bag with a rubber band and return it (even the original axle-length bag was torn open). I will hand it to Rock Auto, though, for they have always been excellent regarding returns, etc., and this case was no different. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Tis what I get for not doing the right thing to begin with, though... Sometimes I need lil reminders 'bout such things...
Re: CV Joint Replacement - 91 Cabriolet (native-texan_in_tn)
Good find, appear to be about $8 cheaper (every little bit helps).
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But for me the customer service and lightening fast shipping that I have always gotten from GAP has made me personally a customer for life.
I will bookmark the other site though because even customer loyalty has a price.
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| Quote, originally posted by native-texan_in_tn » |
If you're referring to the Empi halfshafts, one might also want to check http://www.carmadillo.com/. I just found Empi there for a bit less. Shipping costs/time were comparable to GAP.
|
Good find, appear to be about $8 cheaper (every little bit helps).
But for me the customer service and lightening fast shipping that I have always gotten from GAP has made me personally a customer for life.
I will bookmark the other site though because even customer loyalty has a price.
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1,468 Posts
Re: CV Joint Replacement - 91 Cabriolet (sehaare)
Ah, yes, I have dealt with GAP for a number of items, always with excellent results. I certainly haven't had any complaints by any means but I DO shop around, too. Tis the first time I've dealt with Carmadillo (and I shall spare everyone my "ranching" comments lol) and it turned out to be a good experience with fast shipping...
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| Quote, originally posted by sehaare » |
Good find, appear to be about $8 cheaper (every little bit helps).
But for me the customer service and lightening fast shipping that I have always gotten from GAP has made me personally a customer for life. I will bookmark the other site though because even customer loyalty has a price.
|
Ah, yes, I have dealt with GAP for a number of items, always with excellent results. I certainly haven't had any complaints by any means but I DO shop around, too. Tis the first time I've dealt with Carmadillo (and I shall spare everyone my "ranching" comments lol) and it turned out to be a good experience with fast shipping...
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