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Without looking at it in 3D it's tough to guess, but I tend to think it must be an issue of either the subframe or as Karl says, dropping or raising the transaxle a bit to clear whatever it's hitting. Neither makes the job fun, but isn't the end of the world, either.

A good penetrant is your friend. And "good penetrant" never means "WD40". Ever.
 
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Did you have the Outback dumped? I read a few review specific fo the MK2/MK3 VW and most were pretty positive. Hopefully it won't be too brutally harsh..




Yes you're totally right. I completely forgot about that! It needs to specifically be the MK3.5 part.
It wasn't dumped but it was low. The BC's were at the same height and felt great.

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Without looking at it in 3D it's tough to guess, but I tend to think it must be an issue of either the subframe or as Karl says, dropping or raising the transaxle a bit to clear whatever it's hitting. Neither makes the job fun, but isn't the end of the world, either.

A good penetrant is your friend. And "good penetrant" never means "WD40". Ever.
I'm just trying to take the path of least resistance. From my guess I think disconnecting the motor mounts would be the easiest solution. I'll get a photo tomorrow and maybe one of you guys will have a solid idea!

Do you have the axle removed from the spindle?
Yes it's out of the spindle and all the bolts are out, there just isn't enough physical room to actually take the axle out of the car. It hits on the back of the engine and the subframe. Will definitely get a photo as I'm probably not describing it as clearly as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
I think I would sawzall the axle shaft, but then you might have the same issue putting a new one in.
I think your best bet would be to loosen the motor/transmission mounts to see if you can get that little bit of room.
The sawzall might work, but I still think clearance would be difficult. It's the transmission end of the axle that's causing the problems. And as you noted, I'd still have to find a way to get the new one in!

I think if I loosen the 2 motor mounts I should be able to move the engine the couple inches I need. The front mount is pretty easy to get to, the transmission one not so much, but I'll figure it out.
 

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First, just want to say how awesome it is that you are tackling this project. I'm sure your parents will really enjoy it when you are all finished up.

As far as the axle goes, heres the instructions from VW. Figured I'd help with the cause since I have access to ProDemand. Let me know if there are any issues with the PDF.

Also, the instructions reference a support bridge, but you should be able to get away with a jack and a 2x4 instead since you are doing this on jack stands.
 

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Can't you just take out the entire front strut assembly to remove the CV axle? Unbolting from the top of the strut and disconnecting the the tie rod and ball joint and pull everything out with the hub?
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Can't you just take out the entire front strut assembly to remove the CV axle? Unbolting from the top of the strut and disconnecting the the tie rod and ball joint and pull everything out with the hub?
Unfortunately not, I had the entire suspension removed, and still not possible with the engine in place.

First, just want to say how awesome it is that you are tackling this project. I'm sure your parents will really enjoy it when you are all finished up.

As far as the axle goes, heres the instructions from VW. Figured I'd help with the cause since I have access to ProDemand. Let me know if there are any issues with the PDF.

Also, the instructions reference a support bridge, but you should be able to get away with a jack and a 2x4 instead since you are doing this on jack stands.
'

Thanks so much, Corey. This is a big help! Looks like I was right and they recommend disconnecting the motor mounts and moving the engine.

Finally got some not-so-great photos, as it will help explain the situation a lot better than my bad attempts.

New Axle - Transmission end has these tabs that make it difficult to remove.

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Clearance (or lack of...). Left is the engine/tranny, right is the subframe/transmission mount.


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Hoping to get back in the garage this weekend to continue the work!
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Success on removing the drivers-side axle. I had to unbolt the front & transmission mounts, and push the engine a couple inches forward. Nothing too difficult but the transmission mount is not the easiest thing to get access to! Managed to get it from the top using a bunch of 1/2" extensions. Drives side is done with the suspension, etc.

Next job will be the exhaust and fuel filter. Looking forward to being done with all the mechanical work and starting on the detailing/paint correction.

Also thinking I'm going to order a Timing Belt/Water Pump kit. I honestly don't think either have ever been changed before and at 125k miles, they are long overdue.

I ordered a new euro plate frame, antenna and dipstick as all are pretty past their prime!

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Man, they really crammed that axle in there! Cool that you got it out, though.
 

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Lastly - Anyone from TCL have some MK3 parts laying around? Looking for a Headlight switch with fog lights...
Not cheap, or in stock till September.

Maybe give Jaime a call?
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
Wow that looks great! I don't think I've ever seen a gray interior in a Cabrio before. Hoping my end result is something similar :)

Huge props for all this work! My mom couldn't stop telling everyone about the Jag for weeks and I'm sure your dad will be the same. 🙂

This'll do wonders to lift your mom's spirits too. All the best and looking forward to the reveal. 👍

Planning on recording his reaction?
Thanks man! Much appreciated. We are renting an AirBnB in Orlando and my whole family is coming. I'm planning on driving the car up there and surprising him. I'll definitely get a reaction video!


I found the MK3.5 headlight switch and the shifter surround on eBay. A little more than I wanted to pay, but at least these are the only 2 worn interior parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Also I'm trying to fix the front wheel which is pretty curbed. It was like this when we bought the car and long overdue to be fixed.

I've called a few local refinishing places, but they want $125 for one wheel, which seems like a lot for a 14" rim. I've already spent almost 2x what I had intended too on this project, so going to attempt to do this one on my own. If any of you guys have a good wheel-refinishing guide, I'd definitely appreciate it!


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Also I'm trying to fix the front wheel which is pretty curbed. It was like this when we bought the car and long overdue to be fixed.

I've called a few local refinishing places, but they want $125 for one wheel, which seems like a lot for a 14" rim. I've already spent almost 2x what I had intended too on this project, so going to attempt to do this one on my own. If any of you guys have a good wheel-refinishing guide, I'd definitely appreciate it!
I would suggest you check some junk yards (easiest via car-part.com), a complete used 14" wheel should be like $50.

Otherwise, bondo the gouges, sand and re-bondo until it's smooth enough, and then spray the wheel. Duplicolor wheel paint works well and is durable, though a bit expensive for a rattle can. You can use a deck of cards between the rim and tire instead of having to mask it.
 
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