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17' Raptor '18 4Runner '15 S3
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
DarksideGTI Big Turbo Build Thread






Exterior:
Shaved OEM front bumper
Bora R fog bumper grilles
Shaved hood
Rolled fenders
Bonrath 2 bar grille painted black
Black painted roof
Shaved Hatch
Jom euro tails
25 AE style painted headlights

Interior:
Defi boost gauge
42DD A-pillar pod
Kenwood DDX371 DVD Headunit
Odyssey PC925MJT battery relocated behind drivers seat

Engine:
Custom turbo kit
PTE6162 ball bearing turbo
Pag Parts exhaust manifold
TiAL 38mm WG
TiAL 50mm BOV
Integrated Engineering 3" downpipe
EIP 3" exhaust
Integrated Engineering 3" charge piping
C2 FMIC
Sleepers Performance SRI
630cc fuel injectors
Bosch 044 fuel pump
UM Big Turbo software
Integrated Engineering Tuscan connecting rods
JE 8.5:1 pistons
ARP head studs
Wire tuck
Moroso coolant filler neck
Moroso coolant overflow can
braided fuel and coolant lines
Integrated Engineering oil catch can
VF Engineering motor mounts
BFI dogbone inserts
Southbend stage 3 clutch
Shaved engine bay

Suspension:
Bagyard Bomber front air struts
Universal Air AHII rear bags
Bilstein Sport rear shocks
Accuair Switchspeed air management
5 Gallon tank
(2) Viair 400c compressors
Neuspeed 28mm rear sway bar

Wheels/Tires:
CCW LM20
18x9 et24 front
18x10 et18 rear
Bronze faces
Bronze lips
Falken 912 215/40/18 front
Falken 512 225/40/18 rear
5mm spacers in the rear










I figured I should start another build thread since I am rebuilding my car.

A few months ago I started noticing a bit of smoke coming out of my car under boost. I figured it was a bit of oil burning off from a leaky VC gasket that I had just replaced. I went to the track and my car felt like it was breaking up a bit under full boost I figured it was plugs so I short shifted my way to a 12.9. I replaced my plugs and went to the track again, the car did a bit better but was still breaking up and I short shifted my way to a 12.5. Well after that day I decided to investigate what was causing the smoke. Turns out cyl 5 had a broken piston.



The cylinder walls looked fine, so I de-glazed them with a ball hone and replaced the piston using one I got from Gabe at Bluewater. I also replaced the rings and rod bolts. The car ran fine for a few days, but I never got into boost. About 5 days later I started hearing a bit of noise from the car and it sounded like rod knock. :banghead: I was a bit burned out on working on the car so I parked it and let it sit for a couple months.

A couple weeks ago I finally got a bug up my @ss to work on the car again so I pulled the motor and tore it apart. I found that the rod bearings on cylinder 5 were completely gone. I must have installed the rod cap 180* out and it caused the bearings to wear out. Hoping to save the crank I took it to a local machine shop where it is currently being ground to accept .25mm oversized rod bearings.

Here is the scoring on the #5 rod journal.


I also took the block down to the machine shop to receive a .5mm overbore, fresh hone, and a good hot tanking. The new block will be fitted with some JE 84.5mm pistons and the brand new Integrated Engineering Tuscan rods for the VR6. I believe there are only two of us with these new connecting rods, but the 1.8T versions have been pushed to ~800 whp. :eek: imagine the potential with two extra rods.







I figured while the motor was out I would get rid of some stuff in the engine bay and do a wire tuck as well. I am not sure how crazy I am going to get with shaving stuff, but I would like to redo all the seam sealer and re-spray the bay as well.

Labeled wires.


Motor out.


Empty bay.


Cleaned up passenger side.( the easy one).


Drivers side.


getting there.


organized confusion.


the other plans I have are:

United Motorsports Big Turbo software
Powdercoat all charge pipes, inlet, valve cover, etc.
New -6 braided fuel line
-10 braided catch can valve cover vent
deleted aux radiator
deleted coolant reservoir
relocate PS reservoir
powdercoat VF mounts
powdercoat fuel rail
new coolant hoses ran cleaner
low temp t-stat
low temp fan switch
shaved front bumper
fix cracked rear bumper
new wheels
coat brake calipers

I'm sure I'll end up doing more as well. Hope to have everything done before Wuste 2011 in June. :thumbup:
 

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Tuscan connecting rods! When did these come out?

I have the "regular" connecting rods and really liked their quality and engineering. They came balanced, but I sent the whole rotating assembly out to be balanced.



 

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17' Raptor '18 4Runner '15 S3
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18,392 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Wow! Looks amazing! Im excited to see times when this thing is done. What are you wire tuck plans?
Going to route all the wires down through the frame rails. Actually going to be able to delete a lot of stuff.

Tuscan connecting rods! When did these come out?
They aren't officially out yet.
 

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I'm sorry you are having so many issues with that motor. You have put a lot of time and money into this car so far. It sounds like you are on track to really make it bulletproof once and for all. I am pretty excited to see the end product. I still need to get around to doing my turbo build... but The more and more I dig into it, I hear about weird issues like this. So I keep wanting to do it right, and as I go down that path... the price just keeps going higher and higher with it... so I never pull the trigger.

Have you thought about running the new TT CAMs with this new motor? I think they are 275s... or 277s... I don't recall.

Good luck Nick. If anybody can do it, it's you.

:thumbup::thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Bad news from the machine shop tonight. The crank needs to be ground more than .010" that means in order to use those bearings I would need to weld the crank and then grind it. That kinda sketches me out. Anyone know of a fairly cheap crank for sale?
 

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I have 2 cranks out right now that both are being welded and then ground down to accept .25mm undersized bearings. It should be fine if the machine shop is used to that kind of thing. I have had it done multiple times without issue.
I was faced with a similar issue when I went to rebuild my .:R. But I wasn't so sure about welding and grinding on the crank. I realize that it is an acceptable repair, but I don't like the idea of a forged crank with welds on it. Maybe that's just me, but I can be overly meticulous. :screwy:
When you say you have utilized this repair, what was the application? Was it just a stock rebuild or repair, or was it something that went into a higher HP VW? Would you run it in your .:R, or are we talking about yours? :)
 

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Subscribed :thumbup: ...why not balance and blueprint the crank it while you're at it?
I think your head is in the right place but your using terminology that doesn't really make sense. When you weld onto the crank and then grind the excess off you HAVE to balance it. That is actually how they decide where to grind the excess material off. They throw it on a balancer and strategically grind off certain areas to get the crank in balance. So it will already be balanced if they repair it.

Secondly, my pet peeve is when people mis use the word "blueprint." All that means is you have a plan for the engine and you follow it. Which actually means that a stock motor is blueprinted! VW had a "blueprint" and they followed it when they manufactured the engine. So when you are rebuilding your engine I would hope that you have some sort of plan or "blueprint" in mind for the application and requirements BEFORE you start slapping parts on. If you do, then your engine is already blueprinted. But if you don't, well then your just wasting your money b/c it won't last.

In a nutshell...
If it's going to be a Turbo application for racing then you will use a set of specifications for a turbo engine. If your running a Nitrous only car then you will go with different set of specs. If your going for a monster NA engine then, you guessed it, you go with a different set of specs.

I'm not trying to bash on ANYBODY, just want to merely educate others to some common misconceptions.

Basil Fawlty, I do agree with you that he should blueprint the engine. Also, send your WHOLE rotating assembly to be balanced together for a proper and quality build. This means your crank, pistons, connecting rods, flywheel.
 

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Blueprinting is taking the entire motor apart and measuring everything and verifying all of your clearances/specs. This will happen, once I get the block back I am measuring everything before assembly.
You have part of that right. It's all about adjusting those measurements to meat certain application requirements.

For example, if your running forced induction you will adjust your ring end gap to one spec. Then if your running NA you will adjust your end gaps to another spec.

I used the specs provided by JE for a Turbo application because I have JE Pistons. Some people may have different numbers but there is no question that you must vary tolerances based of application.
And THAT is what it means to Blueprint an engine!
 

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You have part of that right. It's all about adjusting those measurements to meat certain application requirements.

For example, if your running forced induction you will adjust your ring end gap to one spec. Then if your running NA you will adjust your end gaps to another spec.

I used the specs provided by JE for a Turbo application because I have JE Pistons. Some people may have different numbers but there is no question that you must vary tolerances based of application.
And THAT is what it means to Blueprint an engine!

James you are correct with your info. Hopefully others read and learn a few things from your info posted may not be alot but a short general idea for them
 

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17' Raptor '18 4Runner '15 S3
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
You have part of that right. It's all about adjusting those measurements to meat certain application requirements.

For example, if your running forced induction you will adjust your ring end gap to one spec. Then if your running NA you will adjust your end gaps to another spec.

I used the specs provided by JE for a Turbo application because I have JE Pistons. Some people may have different numbers but there is no question that you must vary tolerances based of application.
And THAT is what it means to Blueprint an engine!
Right, when I said measuring clearances that includes adjusting ring gaps. I will be using a bore gauge, micrometer, etc to make sure the main/rod journals have the appropriate clearances, adjusting ring gaps, clocking the rings, etc.

Today I sorted through more of the wiring and re-routed some stuff. I need to go get a hole saw and a rubber grommet so I can route some wires down through the bottom of the rain tray.
 

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It sounds like you have the right idea! ::thumbup:: The rebuild process is an exciting time, I remember it well. I have yet to make a build thread, but I took a TON of pictures! Hopefully you will grace us with the same. 
 
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