VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum banner
  • Mwerks and Fourtitude have rejoined VWVortex. For more info, see this thread.

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
1992 VW GOLF CABRIOLET
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi there guys,
Well i was replacing the instrumentation panel today cos the clock stopped working and the speed meter will intermittently function.
So i begun by pulling out the two electrical plugs: one right behind the speedometer and the other longer plug at the lower rear end.
When I started the ignition, the instrumention doesnt function at all. I reckon an indication that no current is getting into the panel.
Question: where is the fuse for the panel ?? Its a “plug and play” thing but I may have tripped something. Any thoughts or advise as to what I may have done wrong ??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,455 Posts
By the way its a 92 mk1 cabriolet
Well I would say that you don't have everything connected correctly.
There are no specific fuses for the Cluster, but they won't usually blow unless your battery is plugged in.
The Motometer Speedos are usually very reliable, so I would tend to think that you had a cable that was partially unclipped at the rear.

Follow this guide I will link you to, as it is the best way to make sure that your cluster is fine.

Get to know page (now it is 4) post 75 all things 1990ish Cabriolet in the FAQ's.

If you don't have a Bentley, or a Haynes manual I strongly urge you to get one.
Bentley is best, but Haynes has better copies of the Electrical diagrams (schematics).




Fist thing I would do is to follow the guide linked above to improve your connections to your cluster as that is the first suspect.

Then after it is totally re-connected, and the Battery is reconnected, then key in and in the run not start position, is all ok? yes good no, then verify that your 10V stabilizer is working.

If you don't disconnect your battery, and you turn on the Ignition switch without the Cluster connected your air bag lights will trip.

How do i reset those.... Get to know the FAQ's and or Cabby-info.com. Airbag System


DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) on the 20V dc scale.

10V stabiliser is the big looking transistor that is sitting all by itself at the top left of the cluster as it sits in the car.
The middle leg is ground, and the other 2 legs are Battery, and about 9v-10V
So measure from the middle leg to each of the others, is this correct?


If you are missing a voltage, then I would suggest that in the guide that I linked above you verify that pin 14 black has Battery voltage on it to frame, and Battery to pin 2 ground brown, if those voltages are correct then that pin 2 (ohms scale or continuity checker) to frame should ring or be @ 0 ohms (smallest scale for your meter (Ohms).

I have had over the years the pin 14 mylar become delaminated from the mylar and that buy pushing on and off the connector it would scoot up and not make contact.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,455 Posts
OBTW, if you remove your Drivers side Fresh air vent on the Dash, you can wiggle your arm up the thing and re-connect the speedo cable to the dash without removing the entire thing. As you will find you that if you look at that cable wrong or move it from around the Master Cylinder touch it in any way, you will pop it off the back.

How do I safely remove my heater vents and other fixes for them. Page 4 of the FAQ's post 75.
 

·
Registered
1992 VW GOLF CABRIOLET
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for your attention Briano.
First, i do have the Bentley and im looking at the circuitry section. It has all this diagrams and im no electrical guru. I can do simple fixes but i get tired in no time just looking at the digrams. But the boom says relay 4 is involved so ill check that one out.
Second, one big mistake i had was that i left the battery terminals connected while pulling outthe dash so i reckon i blew something in there.
Third,about the voltage stabilizer terminals found on top of the instrument panel, where do I go next should my test reveal “zero” voltage.
Thanks in advance.
Les
 

·
Registered
1992 VW GOLF CABRIOLET
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for your attention Briano.
First, i do have the Bentley and im looking at the circuitry section. It has all this diagrams and im no electrical guru. I can do simple fixes but i get tired in no time just looking at the digrams. But the boom says relay 4 is involved so ill check that one out.
Second, one big mistake i had was that i left the battery terminals connected while pulling outthe dash so i reckon i blew something in there.
Third,about the voltage stabilizer terminals found on top of the instrument panel, where do I go next should my test reveal “zero” voltage.
Thanks in advance.
Les
Oh, before i forget, this ride is fitted with twin side webers and dont have the computer box any longer (if that helps give you a better picture of what im saddled with). Maybe will convert back to digi2 by mid next year.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,455 Posts
Thanks for your attention Briano.
First, i do have the Bentley and im looking at the circuitry section. It has all this diagrams and im no electrical guru. I can do simple fixes but i get tired in no time just looking at the digrams. But the boom says relay 4 is involved so ill check that one out.
Second, one big mistake i had was that i left the battery terminals connected while pulling outthe dash so i reckon i blew something in there.
Third,about the voltage stabilizer terminals found on top of the instrument panel, where do I go next should my test reveal “zero” voltage.
Thanks in advance.
Les
Oh, before i forget, this ride is fitted with twin side webers and dont have the computer box any longer (if that helps give you a better picture of what im saddled with). Maybe will convert back to digi2 by mid next year.
First do the things that I ask, then post the results as then we can proceed in a orderly fashion and do one thing at a time.

Dual Webbers, shoot that ain't too bad, try Sidedraft SU's that I grew up with, a Uni-syn gauge is going to be your
friend in the future.

having a Bentley is a good thing, understanding the wiring takes years, and I still get buggered occasionally, and I have been reading Schematics since 1970.... Hint on VW.... Grounds at the bottom and all are Brown wires.
The Positives are at the top.

Kammy at cabby-info.com electrical has a how to read these...

as well as my Primer here:
 

·
Registered
1992 VW GOLF CABRIOLET
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
First do the things that I ask, then post the results as then we can proceed in a orderly fashion and do one thing at a time.

Dual Webbers, shoot that ain't too bad, try Sidedraft SU's that I grew up with, a Uni-syn gauge is going to be your
friend in the future.

having a Bentley is a good thing, understanding the wiring takes years, and I still get buggered occasionally, and I have been reading Schematics since 1970.... Hint on VW.... Grounds at the bottom and all are Brown wires.
The Positives are at the top.

Kammy at cabby-info.com electrical has a how to read these...

as well as my Primer here:
Thanks. Ill post results.
 

·
Registered
1992 VW GOLF CABRIOLET
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Hey there briano. The car isnt here now and is parked at the other house sone 6 miles away. I noticed a red wire dangling alone right next to the 14 ternimal socket. When i took the panel off the dash, this wire was tapped on one of the nuts behind the panel. I took a mulrimeter and it had 12v meaning its a live wire. And doesnt this red wire bundle with all the wires to the 14 terminal socket ?? Must be my missing link. Whats your take ? Any suggestions as to what i do with this wire ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,455 Posts
It could be that the pin 14 may have broken, and that someone has wired 12V to it separately to power the cluster, as that is one of the usual fixes when the Mylar has deteriorated. The real clue is if the 10V stabilizer is being powered correctly and that it is putting out 10V to the Fuel/water gauges so they are accurate.
 

·
Registered
1992 VW GOLF CABRIOLET
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Hey there briano. The car isnt here now and is parked at the other house sone 6 miles away. I noticed a red wire dangling alone right next to the 14 ternimal socket. When i took the panel off the dash, this wire was tapped on one of the nuts behind the panel. I took a mulrimeter and it had 12v meaning its a live wire. And doesnt this red wire bundle with all the wires to the 14 terminal socket ?? Must be my missing link. Whats your take ? Any suggestions as to what i do with this wire ?
I also noriced a pair of male terminals right next to where the speedometer cable is. What are those for ? Andvthere is a wire with a female terminal at its end with seemingly the terminals that mate with. Not confisent of just plugging things around you know and besidea i dont remember unplugging those two when i remived the panel off.
Help !
 

·
Registered
1992 VW GOLF CABRIOLET
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Photos of the connectors and wires with color tell us more of what they are for, as well as a picture of your engine bay firewall to the left of your master cylinder.
Am taking a few shots of what I saw:
1. The 14 pin connector seems to be intact where all slots are complete so that makes me wonder where the “dangling” red wire goes to.
2. I took a shot of the 2-terminal female connector. Where does that go ?
Kindly revert
 

Attachments

·
Registered
1992 VW GOLF CABRIOLET
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Am taking a few shots of what I saw:
1. The 14 pin connector seems to be intact where all slots are complete so that makes me wonder where the “dangling” red wire goes to.
2. I took a shot of the 2-terminal female connector. Where does that go ?
Kindly revert
Hey Briano ..... good news !! The procedure/link you sent about the mylar to connector reconnection helped. I cleaned the 14 printed conductors and made sure they sat well in there to ensure clean contact with the plug when slid in. It freaking worked !!! 😀😀
But there’s just one thing...... the red “dangling” wire needs to be attached to a nut behind the panel to get the tachometer and fuel gauge working. Why is that when all the wires in the plug seem to be complete ?!? Seems like the previous owner/s did some magic somehow, or does it have to do with the fact that this is a carbureted car and mods had to be made. My 10 cents.
And thanks for your help. !!!
Les
 

·
Registered
1992 VW GOLF CABRIOLET
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Hey Briano ..... good news !! The procedure/link you sent about the mylar to connector reconnection helped. I cleaned the 14 printed conductors and made sure they sat well in there to ensure clean contact with the plug when slid in. It freaking worked !!! 😀😀
But there’s just one thing...... the red “dangling” wire needs to be attached to a nut behind the panel to get the tachometer and fuel gauge working. Why is that when all the wires in the plug seem to be complete ?!? Seems like the previous owner/s did some magic somehow, or does it have to do with the fact that this is a carbureted car and mods had to be made. My 10 cents.
And thanks for your help. !!!
Les
But please tell.... what is this terminal for ??
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,455 Posts
That terminal isn't a terminal, it is a speed sensor for your Active Radio (to increase volume as you drive faster, and or your speed control (cruise). The white connector that you show in your hand plugs in to it. It is the only other connector on the car that you can plug in backwards but in this case it works either way. It is a inductive pickup to measure your speedometer.

They are using the red wire to power the fuel gauges 10V need and that is back feeding the water temp gauge.
Which tells me that you didn't do the 10V stabilizer tests without that wire being attached.

So you have either a 10V stabilizer that is bad or one of the supply voltages aren't there.
You need 12V and ground to the 10v stabilizer to get the 10v stabilized voltage that needs to be applied to the water and the temp gauge, it also can affect the tach.

So leave the wire off and test the 10V stabilizer, then let me know what you find.

I have a thread in page4 of the faq's about backfeeding voltages to your cluster..to get the 10V stabilizer working properly if it is missing either the 12V battery or the ground. If the 10V stabilizer is bad, then you can go to mouser.com and order about 5-6 FA7810-aet's for about 5 bucks + postage, or you can order one from GAP or Autohausaz.com for 40-50 dollars each. superceded by 755-BA17810T
 

·
Registered
1992 VW GOLF CABRIOLET
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the speed sensor info. Have an attermarket radio now so ill just keep that wire secured in there.
Well a close look at the printed circuit showed a cut in the line from where that red wire is fastened. It leads to one of the terminals of the 14pin connector (3rd if am not mistaken). If i dont connect the wire to the nut, the fuel gauge will not function but everything else works. So yhe previous owner perhaps did a sneaky by-pass and connected the red wire to the gauge.
Question: the cut on the printed circuit is about an inch long. I was thinking about how to rebuild the missing consuction. Is there a way you might know to repair that other ao that i can get rid of the sneaky red wire ?
Cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,455 Posts
Pin 3 of the cluster main connector is the violet/black sense wire from your fuel tank.
So what you are saying is that the Violet/black sense wire is broken somewhere between the fuel tank and the
cluster. The Violet/Black wire is usually some resistance between the ground at the tank and the back of the fuel gauge.

If you pull the back seat, remove the 3 phillips screws that hold the cover on, remove the connector. Take a 9v DC battery and connect the negative wire to the brown lead, and the Positive side to the Violet/black wire. Does your fuel gauge move at all to 3/4 to full?

If the cluster is missing an inch of a run I would first validate that the sender wire is broken between the Gauge with the above test. The clusters wire pin3 as if you are putting 12v on the nut of the wire I wonder which side it is on as it should be 12v on the violet/black wire.

With the wire disconnected validate that on one of the nuts there is 10v, as well as 10V on one of the nuts of the water temp gauge.

Validate that your voltage stabilizer leg has Battery to ground (frame) and 10V on the other outside pin.
Validate that the middle leg of the voltage stabilizer is ground pin2 If you go between leg 2 of the voltage stabilizer is there 10v (9.5) on one leg and Battery on the other?

52614
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,455 Posts
It's needed for cruise control too.
Think you missed this useless part of my post.
That terminal isn't a terminal, it is a speed sensor for your Active Radio (to increase volume as you drive faster, and or your speed control (cruise). The white connector that you show in your hand plugs in to it. It is the only other connector on the car that you can plug in backwards but in this case it works either way. It is a inductive pickup to measure your speedometer.
Now what I forgot to mention is the other cluster connection that you can put on backwards is the brake warning lamp connector but in that case the brake and seatbelt light never works until you reverse it.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top