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1,094 Posts
Wow, amazing build!! Great momentum lately... glad you’re sharing this journey with us.
Dasher 16V build
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Although you resolved your issue, maybe this will be helpful to someone. Best i could measure is 24-25cm from firewall to the end of the mc. So audi 80 b4 brake booster and audi 100 c3/passat b2 mc.
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654 Posts
Here is where I am at with the brakes so far. Is. I restored a MK2 Golf booster that was pretty nasty and rusty. But it still had great vacuum and it worked last time the car was driven. If I need to send it out later for an internal rebuild then that's fine but for now I will use this.
The MK2 booster mounts differently in that car than it does a B1. It was actually very easy. I installed some nuts on the 4 studs on the back to act as spacers. Screwing them all the way down tight was the correct depth. I then added the standard B1's backing mount that goes to the car. Fortunately all of the bolt patterns all lineup so this makes it very easy to do.
As for the linkage, the mk2 shaft is not adjustable.
The shaft is also slightly larger diameter.
So I shaved down the diameter a little bit and then used a die to put threads on that match the B1 pushrod.
I bought a long threaded nut, and some threaded rod, and just put it all together. (M10x1.5 btw).
The overall length from firewall to end of MC is 23cm
Length from back of booster to end of MC is 20cm.
Still a long road ahead with the brakes. But this is in the right direction.
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Throttle cable now partially blocked by larger diameter booster.
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Angle is too much for comfort. Will cause friction on cable, and mar up the booster.
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The MK2 booster mounts differently in that car than it does a B1. It was actually very easy. I installed some nuts on the 4 studs on the back to act as spacers. Screwing them all the way down tight was the correct depth. I then added the standard B1's backing mount that goes to the car. Fortunately all of the bolt patterns all lineup so this makes it very easy to do.
As for the linkage, the mk2 shaft is not adjustable.
The shaft is also slightly larger diameter.
So I shaved down the diameter a little bit and then used a die to put threads on that match the B1 pushrod.
I bought a long threaded nut, and some threaded rod, and just put it all together. (M10x1.5 btw).
The overall length from firewall to end of MC is 23cm
Length from back of booster to end of MC is 20cm.
Still a long road ahead with the brakes. But this is in the right direction.
Throttle cable now partially blocked by larger diameter booster.
Angle is too much for comfort. Will cause friction on cable, and mar up the booster.
Joined
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654 Posts
Fun with starters.
Several years ago, maybe even 10 years ago, I bought a Bosch rebuilt starter. I was pretty thrilled, because it said is was rebuilt by Bosch, and came in a Bosch box. I figured it would be about the finest quality I could get for being rebuilt. So, it of course sat on a shelf all this time. I took it out of the box, after a long rest, and was displeased to see the paint/finish was not factory. They painted the whole thing black. Just wrong. You don't paint cast aluminum black! (the one pictured isn't mine, just a photo I found)
Well, I was even more frustrated when I learned it was not the right one. It is too long. I'm guessing it's for a Quantum or 4000 or something. Has the correct bolt pattern, (3, unlike 2 on a Golf/Jetta).
It is much too long to fit with the Dasher right side motor mount.
Notice the length, where the solenoid sits compared to the end of the mid section.
This bigger one might be nice with a high compression motor, in fact, many of you may already know, maybe it's for a diesel. Do they use different motor mount?
Anyway, if anyone is reading this later on, and you're shopping for a starter, be sure you know what one you're buying..
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So, I searched around, and found the correct one.
Much better.
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And newly restored bracket.
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Several years ago, maybe even 10 years ago, I bought a Bosch rebuilt starter. I was pretty thrilled, because it said is was rebuilt by Bosch, and came in a Bosch box. I figured it would be about the finest quality I could get for being rebuilt. So, it of course sat on a shelf all this time. I took it out of the box, after a long rest, and was displeased to see the paint/finish was not factory. They painted the whole thing black. Just wrong. You don't paint cast aluminum black! (the one pictured isn't mine, just a photo I found)
Well, I was even more frustrated when I learned it was not the right one. It is too long. I'm guessing it's for a Quantum or 4000 or something. Has the correct bolt pattern, (3, unlike 2 on a Golf/Jetta).
It is much too long to fit with the Dasher right side motor mount.
Notice the length, where the solenoid sits compared to the end of the mid section.
This bigger one might be nice with a high compression motor, in fact, many of you may already know, maybe it's for a diesel. Do they use different motor mount?
Anyway, if anyone is reading this later on, and you're shopping for a starter, be sure you know what one you're buying..
So, I searched around, and found the correct one.
Much better.
And newly restored bracket.
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193 Posts
IDK if I mentioned it but the shot of your Daily Driver in your firt posting reminds me of my Dasher wagon that I sold in a fit of STUPIDITY..
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654 Posts
I hate it when that happens! Ya, I really like the wagons. Maybe more rare than the coupe? Not sure. Never see any of them anymore. I really liked that car too. I may someday do something with it again.
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654 Posts
Radiator.
I knew this was going to be a big issue. I finally jumped in. Like so many things with this car, I'm in pretty much uncharted territory. I've only heard of a couple people across the globe that have done this same combination of 16V with Webers. Possibly none with 16V, Webers, and GTE aluminum oil pan.
I searched a bit for a suitable aftermarket radiator that would fit with both the Webers and the oil pan's extra width.
Just couldn't find anything. Most of the smallish radiators out there are for a Civic, and are still too wide for this car.
I considered one from an Austin Mini, if I recall, but was concerned it was just too small.
I inquired with a couple radiator shops to see about a custom made deal. I was quoted $700-$1100.
Ultimately I stuck with the NOS Diesel radiator I've had for over 10 years. It is just too nice to pass up.
I really like the diesel radiator because it has no cap, and it is slightly taller than a gas radiator. Extra capacity with no pesky cap. Back in the day, when doing body work on the car, I replaced the lower welded in support with one from a diesel. It sits lower for the extra height. Had I known then what issues I was going to have, I probably would have left out the lower bracket and just waited.
Since radiator is rotated so much the front hose fitting just will not do, . Front fitting would put the lower hose basically outside of the body sheet metal.
So, I picked a radiator shop, and they moved my lower hose fitting to the rear. They were pretty impressed with that radiator. It's a thing of beautiful quality. One hour of labor charged for what they said was a bit more than an hour.
$112 is better than $1000.
With the radiator rotated like it is, that required a new lower bracket and a new side bracket and of course a new front top bracket.
Modded radiator, lower spout moved from front to back.
Also showing the new lower mount I fabbed up. Uses 3 bolt in attachment points. Did not want the weight of the radiator to push down and distort just one single hole. This will do.
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Lower mount in use.
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Front/Lower view
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Side Mount
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In use
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Front Mount
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It's new home
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Now on to the next adventure, the shroud and fans.
Original isn't even close to working.
I knew this was going to be a big issue. I finally jumped in. Like so many things with this car, I'm in pretty much uncharted territory. I've only heard of a couple people across the globe that have done this same combination of 16V with Webers. Possibly none with 16V, Webers, and GTE aluminum oil pan.
I searched a bit for a suitable aftermarket radiator that would fit with both the Webers and the oil pan's extra width.
Just couldn't find anything. Most of the smallish radiators out there are for a Civic, and are still too wide for this car.
I considered one from an Austin Mini, if I recall, but was concerned it was just too small.
I inquired with a couple radiator shops to see about a custom made deal. I was quoted $700-$1100.
Ultimately I stuck with the NOS Diesel radiator I've had for over 10 years. It is just too nice to pass up.
I really like the diesel radiator because it has no cap, and it is slightly taller than a gas radiator. Extra capacity with no pesky cap. Back in the day, when doing body work on the car, I replaced the lower welded in support with one from a diesel. It sits lower for the extra height. Had I known then what issues I was going to have, I probably would have left out the lower bracket and just waited.
Since radiator is rotated so much the front hose fitting just will not do, . Front fitting would put the lower hose basically outside of the body sheet metal.
So, I picked a radiator shop, and they moved my lower hose fitting to the rear. They were pretty impressed with that radiator. It's a thing of beautiful quality. One hour of labor charged for what they said was a bit more than an hour.
$112 is better than $1000.
With the radiator rotated like it is, that required a new lower bracket and a new side bracket and of course a new front top bracket.
Modded radiator, lower spout moved from front to back.
Also showing the new lower mount I fabbed up. Uses 3 bolt in attachment points. Did not want the weight of the radiator to push down and distort just one single hole. This will do.
Lower mount in use.
Front/Lower view
Side Mount
In use
Front Mount
It's new home
Now on to the next adventure, the shroud and fans.
Original isn't even close to working.
Joined
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654 Posts
Why yes, yes I do. At least my radiator does.
In the middle of the shroud build.
Yes, that is a Nordicware cooking sheet.
I made the holes slightly smaller than the fan opening size, and then rolled the lip over for a velocity stack effect.
Next step is making some hinged flaps to let air flow through when car is moving. Prevents the air from having to go only through fans.
But the flaps close so the air doesn't bypass the fans when car is sitting still with fans on.
Joined
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654 Posts
Fan shroud is done.
I will likely wait to do the front shroud when the headlights are in.
At this point, I think next on the list is the steering rack.
So much else depends on the rack being there.
Rack position is certainly not open for debate like fuel and wiring and cooling hoses.
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Got some filters. Not ideal, being so shallow, but I have an idea up my sleeve about that later on. This will do for now.
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Looking forward to building some spoilers to cover up the radiator.
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I will likely wait to do the front shroud when the headlights are in.
At this point, I think next on the list is the steering rack.
So much else depends on the rack being there.
Rack position is certainly not open for debate like fuel and wiring and cooling hoses.
Got some filters. Not ideal, being so shallow, but I have an idea up my sleeve about that later on. This will do for now.
Looking forward to building some spoilers to cover up the radiator.
Joined
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654 Posts
Thank you. It's killing me to be taking a break from the car. I'll be back at it hopefully by end of September.
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86 Posts
Gorgeous. Nice work. That neat oil pan is baffled for cooling, not cornering control, so it's a good idea to make some holes to let the oil get to the pickup easier.
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2 Posts
This is pretty cool!
How you all have put it
You must be really enjoying
How you all have put it
You must be really enjoying
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654 Posts
Thank you for the encouragement.
I will be back at it very soon.
Between lots of camping trips and helping family members, it's been a very busy "season".
Got me ducks in a row. Almost.
I may have purchased one of the last things ever sold from Bry's second yard. An Mk2 hood. 😃 Man, I haven't heard anybody mention that place in years. Thanks for mentioning it. Lots of good memories from the original yard.👍Been working on this car for a little bit, So, I figured it was time to finally make a build thread.
Some of you may know me already. My name's Chris, and I'm a founding member of DOG (Dasher Owners Group).
The original one. That one evolved into a newer one, and I'm sorry to say I've just not been as active with it as I'd like to be. Life gets in the way, much like with my Dasher.
I've been working on this particular car since 1998. About 23 year as of this writing.
My car has seen a lot of changes from the original form, and a lot of changes from my original vision of what I wanted.
And it's seen a LOT of down time sitting in the garage for years at a time untouched.
Those days are over.
I'm very much back on this car, and I've had very good momentum in the last year.
This car's story started out with a part search for my first Dasher, also a 1976 3 door 4 speed. I was starting the teardown of my first one, shortly after someone decided to do a U-turn right next to me. The car was pretty banged up.
SO, off to the junkyard I went, looking for a fender, maybe a couple good doors, maybe the whole front end.
I stumbled on my current car, sitting there in all it's glory.
It's doors were good, had no rust in the rain gutters, was real straight, except for a ding in the fender.
Bryan Wilson of Bry's Auto Wrecking would sell me the two doors for $200, or, the whole car for $300.
I drove the car home, no exhaust and a brake caliper dangling from a coat hanger, and started over.
That was the only time I've ever driven this car, 23 years ago.
The only pic I took of this car before the teardown. Yes, the Dasher wagon next to it was my daily driver.
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654 Posts
I loved both those places, but the first one was certainly the most fun.
So many good memories and uncanny coincidences with timing there.
My very first memory was 1992 when I bought my first Dasher.
It had no reverse or 1st.
An employee helped me install a 4 speed VW Fox shifter, problem solved.
I didn't have a clue about working on cars, but I was hooked. Loved that junky car.
Bry is on eBay now, and is in New Mexico if I recall.
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654 Posts
I just couldn't resist a mockup shot. First time seeing these wheels actually under the car. I'm in love.
It's been a very rough 6 months. Couple health issues, aging parents needs skyrocketing, both my boys' cars, and property issues have kept me away from the Dasher progress. But I'm back at it.
Currently working on steering rack and column, then it's on to modified strut housings. All this so I can dive into header build, which is all dependent on the previous items mentioned being installed.
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It's been a very rough 6 months. Couple health issues, aging parents needs skyrocketing, both my boys' cars, and property issues have kept me away from the Dasher progress. But I'm back at it.
Currently working on steering rack and column, then it's on to modified strut housings. All this so I can dive into header build, which is all dependent on the previous items mentioned being installed.
Joined
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396 Posts
I know how busy life can get. Those wheels look sweet under the car!
-=Mark
'80 Dasher Wagon
'81 Rabbit Sportruck
'90 VSE JackRabbit
'11 Jetta Sportwagen SE
-=Mark
'80 Dasher Wagon
'81 Rabbit Sportruck
'90 VSE JackRabbit
'11 Jetta Sportwagen SE
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