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Discussion Starter · #61 · (Edited)
What do dog toys and VW's have in common? Well, a lot actually.

I decided I wanted to add some extra bump stop to the front end. Main motive is to spare my fender lips from the tires. Hoping to prevent excessive vertical travel. I realize Bilsteins have them built in, but jacking up the tire into the wheel well without the spring in place I realized that at it's extreme, the tire will still hit when the wheels are turned.
Kong dog toys.
I first tried the light blue one (Bilstein color, so, it would be perfect, right?) but that one is for puppies, and is too soft. So, I used some "extreme" black ones. They are much harder. Medium size btw.
Have you ever tried to enlarge a hole in a chunk of rubber? It's not for the faint of heart, or, someone in a hurry. What a pain.
It's really amazing how well these fit, inside the upper spring perch and inside the springs.

Did they work? Well, they are compressing a bit when installed without springs, and the suspension jacked up. They are not the definitive lone solution, but the strut does not travel as far as without them. I feel that with the springs, and with sway bar installed, I will have the protection I need for pulling in and out of the more extreme parking lots and driveways like gas stations. It's just insurance.






The springs btw, are Vogtland brand. They are made in Germany. I happen to like that.
And, they are much more affordable than many others. I also like that they come in 11", which is sort of uncommon. The 11" allows my spring perches to be all the way down unloaded.
I'm currently using 175# units. I have done all the number crunching from the online spring calculators, but that's all just guessing since I really don't have an exact weight for this car, let alone front to rear difference. But, being less than $100 for a pair of these, I just decided to try the 175's.
First mockup with them in place, the car is sitting too high, yet, about STOCK Dasher height. But I have nothing in this car other than the engine and trans really. SO much more weight to go.
I'm just not stressing it. Being that these are coilovers, they are pretty easy to take out, without worrying about taking out the axles or ball joints or any other nonsense. The springs will actually fit through the shock towers once the strut bearing assy is removed.
If they are too stiff, I'll just get another rate spring.





And my strut bearing assemblies. The large D shape washers are originally yellow chromate, but the bearing housing and top ring are originally black. I think I'm pretty happy with the yellow chromate look for all of it. Just something different for a something different kind of car.



Hope you enjoy, let me know your thoughts.
 

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'91 GLI, '98 Vr6 GTI, '17 Golf R
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I can think of funner things then enlarging an existing hole in a dog toy. We have a pit mix and I'm very familiar with the hardness of the size large red Kong chew toy. They're made out of some pretty tough stuff. The one you used looks right at home on that strut. I think if I had to make that hole bigger I would try and use a deep hole saw and go in from both ends. Just out of curiosity how did you do it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Trouble with hole saws is they are not self centering unless you start with a tiny hole.
I used rotary files in a drill press. I've got an assortment of them. Trouble is they are made for metal, and they do a lot of burning rather than filing away the rubber. There are much better ways to cut them I'm sure.
 

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Trouble with hole saws is they are not self centering unless you start with a tiny hole.
I used rotary files in a drill press. I've got an assortment of them. Trouble is they are made for metal, and they do a lot of burning rather than filing away the rubber. There are much better ways to cut them I'm sure.
We use carbide tipped Rotobroaches, also known as annular cutters, to cut holes through even fairly thick carbon and stainless steel plate. Holding the workpiece in a vise in a milling machine we don't have to worry about self centering. If you could build a fixture to hold the dog toy, you could probably do it with a lathe as well. I like them because of the low tool pressure. We have to lathe turn rubber parts once in awhile so we get some experience with it occasionally. But yeah, generally it's a pain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Steering Tie Rods

I built these tie rods about 25+ years ago. They're a great solution to the silliness that came stock on a Dasher/Audi Fox, with their fixed length passenger side rod, which is of course obsolete since about 5 years after the car was new.
These are made from VW Fox outers (4000 also IIRC). I am having a hard time remembering every detail, but part of the issue is the inner joint is unique to a B1 with it's straight shape with a kink in it. VW Fox has a bent inner end. So, to use 2 driver side inners, you have to get a reverse thread tap for the rod/tube. At the time, there was no internet, no Amazon, and not much taps from China, so, I paid $50 something for a metric reverse special order tap. The tubes were too long, so I had to cut them anyway.
Ended up being a great setup. The only issue is the tube is not used for adjustment, since it has reverse thread on BOTH ends, being that the threads into the tie rod end are normal threads. So, you sort of pre-set the inner end, and you're done with it, adjusting just the outer turnbuckle style rod.
I did not do anything fancy with the inner bushings, they're in perfect shape for being so old. They were a very hard rubber from new.



 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Brake Calipers

Dusted off the cobwebs that 2 decades can produce. At least off the front ones.
I have had a set of front calipers from an Audi 4000 (Girling 54, 10.1" rotors) for 20 years.
The rear Scirocco even longer. I cleaned up the fronts, with all new piston seals and bolts and boots.
The rear ones I decided to take a different route. I studied how they would go on and decided I liked some of the details of the Audi 80/90/100 rear calipers better (specifically the location of the brake hose inlet). I scored a brand new, supposedly NOS, not rebuilt calipers for a price I couldn't resist.
My plan is to mount the rears opposite of the normal position. They will go in front of the hub, instead of the standard rear spot. This means the right will go to the left, to keep the bleeder at the top. Only issue I see with this is the E-brake cable might not reach, since it will have to go under the axle beam and forward to the caliper. I really like the idea of the weight of the caliper being closer to the trailing arm pivot point. We'll see how it goes. Might need longer cables.

So, for color. Hard decision. I have thought for years I'd do them red, like everyone else, and like 3 other cars in our fleet, but I just decided to do something a bit different. This is VHT brand "Nu-Cast" with VHT clear coat. I am very pleased with the color. Maybe I'll get bored of it after a while, not sure, but for now, I'm happy.
My chosen wheels are not very "open", so, don't really show off brakes much, so, maybe that's more reason I should have gone with red, but we'll see.

The rear look darker, not really sure why, just funny lighting I guess. They're all the same. Left (front ones) are closer to a different color shop light I think?



 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Those calipers look awesome. I just refurbed the same ones (off of a Corrado VR6) and painted them satin black, turned out nice. But this is an uncommon color to paint calipers and a great choice.
Thank you. Looks like Mercedes has been doing the gray for a while now, thought they looked classy. Should look good with the silver.
I did the calipers on my TT in gloss black. I like them, but they sure don't have the eye catching wow factor of a red caliper. Honestly I go back and forth in my mind about red calipers. Some days I feel that only aftermarket (Brembo, Wilwood etc...) should be red, but then other days I am a firm believer in people should do to their car what makes them happy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
I was at a car show and swap meet the other day, and I scored a nice set of Lynx Filters.
These are just what I need to get a bit more clearance with my radiator. And they look cool.
They will work well for both "show car stuff" and actually driving the car. I can put foam in them for driving, and very easily take it out for show. Looks kinda neat with the velocity stacks showing.
The backs were trashed. Poorly modified to fit a set of Air Cooled carbs. But these screens fit right into the stainless steel cheap Amazon specials I bought with the traditional filter elements.
I was thrilled to find these, they're pretty pricey brand new.

Here's the cheap Amazon filters. They will work, but still pretty close to the radiator.


And the swap meet score...
Way more room, and these are using the stainless steel cheap Amazon back plates, instead of the hacked up chrome ones they came with.
(only one velocity stack is in place in this pic)
:D


 
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