[LegendaryT2]

Hey gang I have a 2000 A4 wagon 2.8 auto that has the follow obd codes P1347 P0304,5,&6 and P0300. P1347 shows that the timing could be off or the crank sensor could be bad. I also had a code for the cam sensor on Bank 1 (forgot the code) which I changed out and that code hasn't come back. When I Googled it most ppl say the timing is off or something with the timing chain for the cams.

This is my daily and I know the timing and WP is due but plans to do it when the weather gets warmer and funds are a bit attainable unless someone wants to help out and buy my for sale items. My question is can I just adjust the timing if it is off temporarily.

Also to touch on the issue how this happened, the car had a bad center differential that I took to the dealer to diagnose. Engine ran fine before they got it. After I got the car back and running with new diff (about a 3 weeks later) I turned the car on and there's this misfire. Called the dealer (knowing it's going to be a long shot) and they say it's prolly due to the cold weather while it was sitting. So idk what they did when they had it or what could cause it to be off timing at this point.

So can I just

1) change the crank sensor and see what happens

2) temporarily retime the car till I can get the parts

3) whatever suggestions you have

Also I do not have a Vag



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[RuS4]

Hey gang I have a 2000 A4 wagon 2.8 auto that has the follow obd codes P1347 P0304,5,&6 and P0300. P1347 shows that the timing could be off or the crank sensor could be bad.

......
Called the dealer (knowing it's going to be a long shot) and they say it's prolly due to the cold weather while it was sitting. So idk what they did when they had it or what could cause it to be off timing at this point.

So can I just

1) change the crank sensor and see what happens

2) temporarily retime the car till I can get the parts

3) whatever suggestions you have

Also I do not have a Vag



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So I'll start with #2 on the list. Timing is controlled solely by the ECU, there is no adjusting it without having the correct software and OBD dongle thingy. And unless you have adjustable cam gears or had the timing belt or camshaft and/or tensioner serviced recently I truly doubt its a timing issue. The chances of the belt jumping a tooth are pretty slim and easy to check.
-Get the car to TDC and check timing marks, if its on then thats not the problem.
(that being said the Cam chain can stretch, but this is absolute last case scenario.. the equivalent of looking in the fridge for your phone type of thing. This too can be checked by getting the engine to TDC and pulling the valve cover and checking the timing marks. Again unless you want to change the valve cover gasket I wouldn't do this until you have checked everything else, not to mention in all the time I've owned an Audi I've heard of the cam chain stretching maybe twice but only with BIGGGG Hp)

Also after checking the codes all your misfires (P0304,5,6) are on Bank 2 including P1347 which is a Camshaft Position Sensor not a crank sensor.

Running through the logic of a single bank (but all cylinder) misfire I would lean to an ICM or a cam sensor.
-In your position I would change the hall sensor (cam sensor) first as I'm fairly sure thats the culprit, not to mention its cheap and easier to change then most b5 stuff.

Get it from FCP and get a lifetime warranty on it so even if its not bad you have a spare and a part that you can replaced for free if it ever goes out. But if you can't wait the 2 days to get the part then buy it local, it should be easy to get and a sub $50 part

Also on a side note that dealership gave a super lame excuse. multiple misfires in ONE bank because it sat in the cold??? lol!! Get real lmao. not saying its there fault the cam sensor died but they were def trying to cover their @sses

 

[LegendaryT2]

So I'll start with #2 on the list. Timing is controlled solely by the ECU, there is no adjusting it without having the correct software and OBD dongle thingy. And unless you have adjustable cam gears or had the timing belt or camshaft and/or tensioner serviced recently I truly doubt its a timing issue. The chances of the belt jumping a tooth are pretty slim and easy to check.
-Get the car to TDC and check timing marks, if its on then thats not the problem.
(that being said the Cam chain can stretch, but this is absolute last case scenario.. the equivalent of looking in the fridge for your phone type of thing. This too can be checked by getting the engine to TDC and pulling the valve cover and checking the timing marks. Again unless you want to change the valve cover gasket I wouldn't do this until you have checked everything else, not to mention in all the time I've owned an Audi I've heard of the cam chain stretching maybe twice but only with BIGGGG Hp)

Also after checking the codes all your misfires (P0304,5,6) are on Bank 2 including P1347 which is a Camshaft Position Sensor not a crank sensor.

Running through the logic of a single bank (but all cylinder) misfire I would lean to an ICM or a cam sensor.
-In your position I would change the hall sensor (cam sensor) first as I'm fairly sure thats the culprit, not to mention its cheap and easier to change then most b5 stuff.

Get it from FCP and get a lifetime warranty on it so even if its not bad you have a spare and a part that you can replaced for free if it ever goes out. But if you can't wait the 2 days to get the part then buy it local, it should be easy to get and a sub $50 part

Also on a side note that dealership gave a super lame excuse. multiple misfires in ONE bank because it sat in the cold??? lol!! Get real lmao. not saying its there fault the cam sensor died but they were def trying to cover their @sses

Thanks, I did swap the cam sensor with a running car with no codes and the cam sensor code went out, but the crank and misfire code didn't. I cleared it with a scanner and did the battery clear method and the crank sensor code and p0304,5,6 came back

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[RuS4]

Thanks, I did swap the cam sensor with a running car with no codes and the cam sensor code went out, but the crank and misfire code didn't. I cleared it with a scanner and did the battery clear method and the crank sensor code and p0304,5,6 came back

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Did you change the cam sensor on both banks? I know you mentioned that you changed Bank 1, did you do bank 2 as well? If not try and swap/change the one in bank 2 and see if the fault follows/is gone (or use the testing procedure below). if that works then change the cam sensor
---->Testing procedure for Hall Sensor--->Cam Sensor Testing Procedure

Also I didn't realize that you dont have an ICMs and coil on plugs. Spark plug wires and an ignition coil... huh... well might be a good idea to check the coil and the wires to be on the safe side.
here is a good link--> Click Clickity I found that might help with a testing procedure for the coil. I'm not sure how helpful it will be but they show a coil resistance test like 3/4 through the post. I don't know if one whole bank will fail on those coils and the other run fine but maybe give that a try before you call it a crank sensor and spend the money.. or say hell with it and throw a crank sensor at it lol. God knows we have all done that before.

I don't have a test for a crank sensor. My testing procedure for P1347 has you test the cam sensor only even though it references the cam and the crank sensor as possible faults for that code.

 

[LegendaryT2]

Did you change the cam sensor on both banks? I know you mentioned that you changed Bank 1, did you do bank 2 as well? If not try and swap/change the one in bank 2 and see if the fault follows/is gone (or use the testing procedure below). if that works then change the cam sensor
---->Testing procedure for Hall Sensor--->Cam Sensor Testing Procedure

Also I didn't realize that you dont have an ICMs and coil on plugs. Spark plug wires and an ignition coil... huh... well might be a good idea to check the coil and the wires to be on the safe side.
here is a good link--> Click Clickity I found that might help with a testing procedure for the coil. I'm not sure how helpful it will be but they show a coil resistance test like 3/4 through the post. I don't know if one whole bank will fail on those coils and the other run fine but maybe give that a try before you call it a crank sensor and spend the money.. or say hell with it and throw a crank sensor at it lol. God knows we have all done that before.

I don't have a test for a crank sensor. My testing procedure for P1347 has you test the cam sensor only even though it references the cam and the crank sensor as possible faults for that code.

In the beginning I changed the cam sensor on the wrong bank, before I switched to the correct bank, so they've both been changed at this point. I swapped everything from wires, to ignition coil, to the spark plugs from another car that runs smoothly and it still does the same thing. I would've said fuel injectors but how likely a bank of injectors go bad at the same time. Could the FPR cause this?

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[RuS4]

In the beginning I changed the cam sensor on the wrong bank, before I switched to the correct bank, so they've both been changed at this point. I swapped everything from wires, to ignition coil, to the spark plugs from another car that runs smoothly and it still does the same thing. I would've said fuel injectors but how likely a bank of injectors go bad at the same time. Could the FPR cause this?

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Its pretty unlikely that all the injectors would go bad all at once, plus I would expect a lean code if that was the case but your misfiring not necessarily leaning out. Its too bad you don't have VagCom you could check your injector duty if you did.
I would imagine that is your FPR was faulty you would be leaning out in both banks and you would be getting a whole different set of codes.
At this point I would change the crank sensor and hopefully that will take care of it. There doesnt seem to be very much left on the ignition side of things that you haven't already gone through.

 

[LegendaryT2]

Its pretty unlikely that all the injectors would go bad all at once, plus I would expect a lean code if that was the case but your misfiring not necessarily leaning out. Its too bad you don't have VagCom you could check your injector duty if you did.
I would imagine that is your FPR was faulty you would be leaning out in both banks and you would be getting a whole different set of codes.
At this point I would change the crank sensor and hopefully that will take care of it. There doesnt seem to be very much left on the ignition side of things that you haven't already gone through.

Ok, gonna do just that then and see.

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