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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
DIY: Footwell Lights

Disclaimer: I, nor anybody else is responsible for anything that happens, to you, your car, anybody around you or whatever else. There is NO warranty on this. Proceed at YOUR OWN risk. This worked for me, my car still drives and I'm still alive.
PLEASE take the time to read through the wall of text as it can possibly help understand what needs to be done, and give you a general idea of what to do before you begin, although it’s not complicated, it might answer some questions and prevent some headaches. You've been warned.
This was done on a 2014 GLI


General Info / Notes
  • VW decided not to include footwell lights, so we will simply "add" them.
  • This is based on the kit deAutoKey has. AFAIK it is not listed on their site yet, will probably be soon
  • They WILL be dimmable
  • Testing the function during install might be repetitive but in the end it helps make sure it all works
What’s needed?
  • deAutoKey Footwell kit with wiring harness
  • M10 triple square to remove seats
  • Basic Tools
  • Patience
Before you begin:
Check to make sure you have all the housings (4). Spread the wiring harness on the ground somewhere, you should have (4) connectors, (1) ground and (1) terminal pin.

The connectors should be "separated" so when you lay everything out, you should be able to place the connectors on each corner of the car as such:
-- Drivers front (connector with the terminal and ground wire sticking out)
-- Passenger front (comes off the driver and has another connector that will lead to passenger rear)
-- Passenger rear (comes off the passenger front, no further connectors past this one)
-- Drivers rear (comes off the drivers front, no further connectors past this one)

What to do:
Step 1: Best way to begin would be to enter the VCDS coding, that way before you even route all the wires, you can check that each connection works.
Go to: Block 09 -> Coding -> Byte 12 -> Check Bit 5
Go to: Block 09 -> Coding -> Byte 20 -> Check Bit 0
Then Save

=> At this point, in your MFD menu, under lights section, you should see an option to enable footwell lights. Make sure its checked.




Step 2: The basics: Ignition off, lights off.

Step 3: Under the steering wheel, close to firewall, and high up, you will see the CECM, and the three connectors (Black / White / Brown)
- Remove the middle one (B / White) (Note: It is a pain in the ass because it's so tight there, but it's do-able, take your time, unlatch the connector and wiggle it out but take care not to go too crazy)


Step 4: Separate the housing(cover) of the connector, to be able to slide new pin in. You will see two little tabs near where the wires go 'in'. Pull those away and slide the cover off.

Step 5: Take your terminal pin and slide it into position 50, it'll 'click' into place. Once it clicks, you can give it a very gentle pull and see if it slides out or not, it shouldn't.
* Terminal 50 spot should be empty (if for some reason it's not, you either pulled the wrong connector off or you already have footwells)

Step 6: Slide the cover back onto the connector and put it back onto the CECM, again being careful.

Step 7: Under the steering column there is a 8mm nut with an existing ground, remove the nut, put the footwell ground there, and tighten the nut.


Step 8: (make sure you have bulbs in the housings) Connect each housing to each connector, then you can start the car or put it into accessory mode, and turn on your headlights. All of them should go on, if not, check your connections. If only some go on, you might have an issue with the harness.

Step 9: Swap the bulbs in the housings to LED's if you got them, repeat step 8, and double check all of them work. This saves you the hassle of doing it later or dealing with a bad bulb if there happens to be one. Shut everything off, if all is well and disconnect housings from the connectors.

Step 10: At this point, you have to figure out how you will mount the drivers side footwell. I simply mounted it using strong velcro, somewhat in the middle. The knee bolster has a nice flat spot that the housing can "attach" to. Make sure you pay attention to the connector so it'll be possible to easily connect / disconnect when needed. It has little tabs that need to be pushed in to be removed, so remember that.



Step 11: Once mounted, connect the first connector to the housing. It will be the one that has the ground and terminal 'attached' to it.

Step 12: On drivers side front, pull up on the door sill plastic to detach it. It doesn't need to come off all the way, just enough to have some space.

Step 13: Route the connector/wire that goes to the drivers rear, behind the plastic where the hood handle is, making sure it comes out towards rear where the plastic you lifted is.

Step 14: (Sort-of-optional) // All depends how neat you want to get with the wires, I wanted them more hidden so I did it this way. //
Raise the seat up, and remove 4 bolts that hold the seat in place. I believe they were M10 triple square.

Step 15: Lift the front of the seat and either have someone hold it for you or figure out how to keep it in that position.

Step 16: Route the connector under the carpet and out the opening under the seat where the oem harness goes.




Step 17: Go to the back seat of the car, and now lift up the rear of the drivers seat. You might have to push it forward it a bit to give yourself more "room" but be careful with the oem wiring underneath, as you only have a specific amount of 'lift' before you start pulling on it. Again have someone hold it or find a way to keep it in that position so it doesn't smack you. (it will happen)

Step 18: On the underside of the seat, in the rear, you'll see a square right in the middle. That's where the housing goes. There is also a bunch of foam behind it.

-- VERY CAREFULLY pick/pluck or cut the foam to allow the housing to be inserted without pushing on the foam. There IS wiring behind the foam, so be CAREFUL! I simply picked on it with my fingers and some pliers. The idea is to have the housing sit there without pushing on the foam, remember that it also has the connector on the side of it so you want to make some room for that aswell. I wanted the housing to have some free space around it because it makes it a ton easier to snap it into place, but would also avoid the foam making contact with the housing incase it gets too hot.






Step 19: Route connector through one of the holes on bottom of seat so it comes out through the rectangle and connect the housing. Then turn on accessory and headlights and make sure both front and rear drivers side lights go on.


Step 20: Snap the housing into the rectangular space. Fair WARNING, it's damn tight but it does go in. I slightly damaged one of mine with the multiple attempts of putting it on and off.



Step 21: Zip-tie wiring to oem harness making sure to leave some slack for up, down, forward and backward seat movement.

Step 22: Lower seat down and reinstall it. One of the front rails has a "prong" of sort that goes into a hole. Loosely put all 4 bolts on then tighten.

Step 23: Reinstall the door sill plastic making sure it snaps into place securely. It has those metal clips that tend to be a pita sometimes, so make sure they are in place. Also be aware of the wire you just routed through there, as well as any others you might have, to not kink them or possibly damage them.

[HR][/HR]
[HR][/HR]
Moving onto passenger side:

Step 24: On the passenger side front, remove the lower plastic piece of the center console on the right. There is one torx screw in front. Then I sort of just pulled it down, there are little grooves of plastic it slides into, so pay attention to how it comes off so you have an idea how it goes back on.

Step 25: Remove the foam-like cover under the glove box, the same one you'd remove to replace the cabin filter.

Step 26: Now look in front of the center console, closest to firewall and where you removed the lower plastic piece, shine a flashlight in the same area but on the drivers side, hold it there, go back to passenger and you'll see there is a "path"



Step 27: Grab yourself a wire hanger or whatever other similar "tool" and gently try to reach the drivers side from the passenger, be careful and don't force it as you do not want to damage anything back there.


Step 28: Once you are through to the drivers side, tape the connector(s)/wire, to the hanger to be able to fish it back to the passenger side. Again, be careful with the connector(s) and how you pull everything through as you don't want to cause any damage. You will be pulling two connectors to the passenger side. One is for the front, one is for the rear.




Step 29: After you pull them through, check that both connectors still work. Repeat step 8 by plugging in housings and turning on headlights. Unplug after you know they work.

Step 30: Now it's time to figure out how you're going to mount the passenger side housing.
(Because I actually started with this side to figure out mounting, I went a little overboard, removed the glove box, made a little "bracket" but I've later determined I could of easily velcro'ed it like the drivers side, so here, I would again suggest velcro. Remember to leave space for the connector)


Step 31: You will likely have excess wire for the front passenger housing. You can roll it up and hide it behind the center console, I'd also take the time to tuck and ziptie the wire as it goes "down" to the center console to keep it from freely hanging down. Make sure it's out of the way of the cabin filter "cover", so when you actually replace it, the wires won't interfere.



Step 32:
Repeat steps 12-23, but on the passenger side.
You'll be routing behind the corner plastic, its the same concept for everything except the plastic wont have the hood handle




Step 33: Test function of all 4 lights





Feel free to ask any questions, if any of these instructions are unclear, please let me know, and I'll edit accordingly so it helps others.
If this helped you, don't forget to say thanks, it goes a long way. Support is always appreciated. Most of all, enjoy!
 

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Great DIY! Just fyi this will only work on high line models, GLI and Hybrid.
For all other models, take power from the GREY dimmer wire on the headlight switch and no coding is required. Everything else is the same.
:beer:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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Thanks for this amazing review!

We have these available now but never had the chance to put it on our site, if anyone is interested in the complete kit you can email us at [email protected]

:thumbup:
 

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Great DIY! Just fyi this will only work on high line models, GLI and Hybrid.
For all other models, take power from the GREY dimmer wire on the headlight switch and no coding is required. Everything else is the same.
:beer:
They will turn on when the doors open or stay on all the time?
 

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No they will turn on and stay on with the headlights of your car. It's like oem ambient lighting.
If you want them to work when you open the doors look at my diy where I show you how to do that.
 

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My wiring harness from them is super short, Theres no way they reach to the back. Did you have to unwrap the wiring to make the wires longer? I'm thinking they just sent me the wrong wiring kit
 

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My wiring harness from them is super short, Theres no way they reach to the back. Did you have to unwrap the wiring to make the wires longer? I'm thinking they just sent me the wrong wiring kit
I had to for mine. I would recommend buying a roll of hockey/lacrosse tape and re-wrap them after you get them unwrapped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
My wiring harness from them is super short, Theres no way they reach to the back. Did you have to unwrap the wiring to make the wires longer? I'm thinking they just sent me the wrong wiring kit
I had to for mine. I would recommend buying a roll of hockey/lacrosse tape and re-wrap them after you get them unwrapped.
Really? I specifically told them about the issue when I first got the harness and was told it'd be fixed but apparently it hasn't been. I'll get in touch with them.
 

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My wiring harness from them is super short, Theres no way they reach to the back. Did you have to unwrap the wiring to make the wires longer? I'm thinking they just sent me the wrong wiring kit
I had to for mine. I would recommend buying a roll of hockey/lacrosse tape and re-wrap them after you get them unwrapped.
Really? I specifically told them about the issue when I first got the harness and was told it'd be fixed but apparently it hasn't been. I'll get in touch with them.

Hey, sorry about the inconvenience, we apologize, we will separate them in the future prior to shipping them out, it could have been overlooked.

Thank you
 

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Really? I specifically told them about the issue when I first got the harness and was told it'd be fixed but apparently it hasn't been. I'll get in touch with them.
Yeah I thought it was odd, but figured it was something to do with shipping or protection of the wires and they forgot to include that bit when I talked to them. TBH it only took me about 10 minutes to completely unwrap and re-warp it so I didn't care. Plus after they were installed I was so happy with the final product I completely forgot that I had to do that in the first place :p
 

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Yeah I thought it was odd, but figured it was something to do with shipping or protection of the wires and they forgot to include that bit when I talked to them. TBH it only took me about 10 minutes to completely unwrap and re-warp it so I didn't care. Plus after they were installed I was so happy with the final product I completely forgot that I had to do that in the first place :p
Thanks, they will look into this, I got word that they leave it so you can reuse it for the project vs unraveling it and removing it before shipping.
 

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where is the kit being offered..? I cant find it?

Thank you
Thanks for the question, they will create a listing for this soon - can you please email [email protected] for an invoice, it can go out tomorrow.

Thank you
 

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Need to add the rear foot ones... Car already comes with front ones :laugh:

I should be fine to just tap the rear ones into the front ones right? Already converted front to LED and so would rear's
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Need to add the rear foot ones... Car already comes with front ones

I should be fine to just tap the rear ones into the front ones right? Already converted front to LED and so would rear's
Yes, essentially the same thing.

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