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Quick question....I started the install tonight, got all of the dome lights in and the vanity mirrors. One of the lights in the third row will not work. I had to put the factory build back in.

I checked that LED and it worked in a different location.

Any ideas?
Hi, our dome LEDs are polarized, please try flipping it 180 if it does not work, please keep us updated.

Thank you
 

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Hi, our dome LEDs are polarized, please try flipping it 180 if it does not work, please keep us updated.

Thank you
That was my first thought, I'm wondering if I need to finish all of them? I've tried both ways and in both sides, only one side of the third row will work if both LEDs are installed.
 

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That was my first thought, I'm wondering if I need to finish all of them? I've tried both ways and in both sides, only one side of the third row will work if both LEDs are installed.
These are our LEDs? We did not see an email come through with this, but we have yet to see this issue so we are unable to say with 100% certainty. Would you mind emailing us at [email protected]

One thing we would suggest is to make sure the buttons around the lights are not pressed, we know this will sometimes affect how they work.

Thank you
 

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It is the kit, I will try again later this week and report back.
 

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It is the kit, I will try again later this week and report back.
Ok, please keep us updated with more info as we can only guess right now since it is not an issue we have seen before, once all LEDs are installed it should regulate voltage throughout the car, the new car could easily not pickup on a bulb and cause power loss to the other bulbs.

Our only other guess is the buttons by the dome lights, we know those can sometimes make other lights like the footwells act differently.

Also, is the car started or off when you see this issue or is it different if the car is on/off? We don't feel it matters but could be helpful to figuring out the main cause.

Keep the thread updated, we can send you over another LED bulb if you feel that could be the problem.

You could also email [email protected] for help, know you are posting to see if anyone else had the problem but we are an honest company, if we heard or ever had an email like this we'd be the first to say it here and help.

Thank you
 

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Ok, please keep us updated with more info as we can only guess right now since it is not an issue we have seen before, once all LEDs are installed it should regulate voltage throughout the car, the new car could easily not pickup on a bulb and cause power loss to the other bulbs.

Our only other guess is the buttons by the dome lights, we know those can sometimes make other lights like the footwells act differently.

Also, is the car started or off when you see this issue or is it different if the car is on/off? We don't feel it matters but could be helpful to figuring out the main cause.

Keep the thread updated, we can send you over another LED bulb if you feel that could be the problem.

You could also email [email protected] for help, know you are posting to see if anyone else had the problem but we are an honest company, if we heard or ever had an email like this we'd be the first to say it here and help.

Thank you
You guys are awesome, I appreciate all the support. What I have installed so far looks great too! When I get it all done, I'll report back (hopefully this weekend).
 

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Its for cleaner, LED lighting as seen in most luxury vehicles. For most doing it, it is for aesthetic purposes. It is likely a touch brighter too, which is beneficial for spaces such as the rear cargo area.
 

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Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
My $0.02:

Interior is mostly aesthetic, but it's definitely brighter and never have to worry about incandescent bulbs burning out over time. Easier to see what you're doing in the hatch at night for sure. Definitely makes the car feel high end compared to the dingy yellow OEM bulbs.

For the brake lights, I like that the LEDs are super bright and instant on. Some aesthetic to that instant-on LED lighting, but I feel it's probably safer too as it warns those behind me more quickly that I'm braking. I have these in all of my VWs.

For the reverse lights, this is more safety -- aesthetics not so much as they're not constantly being used like the other lights. Brightass backup lights you can definitely see objects or people easier, other people will better know you're backing up -- especially with fully tinted taillights.
 

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Quick question....I started the install tonight, got all of the dome lights in and the vanity mirrors. One of the lights in the third row will not work. I had to put the factory build back in.

I checked that LED and it worked in a different location.

Any ideas?
Happy to report I finished the install last night and all LEDs are working. I started this project in the dark and it looks like I bent one of the prongs in the third row so the new LED was not making good contact. Everything is working now.

If you are on the fence with this, go for it. They are all well made, error free, and do not flicker. I've not driven behind the vehicle to see the new LED tail lights and turn signals but the reverse lights made a huge difference at night.

Thanks for the great support deAutoLED and special thanks to CiDirkona for the step by step instructions, saved me from breaking some tabs I'm sure.
 

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Happy to report I finished the install last night and all LEDs are working. I started this project in the dark and it looks like I bent one of the prongs in the third row so the new LED was not making good contact. Everything is working now.

If you are on the fence with this, go for it. They are all well made, error free, and do not flicker. I've not driven behind the vehicle to see the new LED tail lights and turn signals but the reverse lights made a huge difference at night.

Thanks for the great support deAutoLED and special thanks to CiDirkona for the step by step instructions, saved me from breaking some tabs I'm sure.
Thank you for the update and feedback, we appreciate it.

Enjoy your LEDs.
 

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Thanks for the added info - we linked the images so they show up in the thread:



Dome Lights:

Front domes lens removal:


Front section with lens removed:


Front section, this entire module may fall down with the lense, but it just pops back into place:



Middle row, start here at the BACK EDGE:


Middle row, move towards front edge undoing clips:


Middle row, lens removed: http://i.imgur.com/jYPwd93.jpg[/url] middle row housing/cover. NOTE THE SQUARE TAB on the front-most edge. You must start at the BACK of this panel to remove it or you will break that tab.

Rear row, start here to get the tool in: [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/LxxhTqZ.jpg

Rear row, try to pull straight down as those long teeth can bend:


Taillight removal install pics:

Outer taillights need to be removed to access the bulbs.
Outer tail light, removed:


Outer tail light, opened:
4 black tabs pulled outward to release white bulb housing. There's a rubber seal inside the edge of the white housing, so it might take some effort.

Outer tail light access panel:


Outer tail light bracket thingy, turn to left 3/4 turn then pull the taillight straight out of the body:


To undo the plug, pull the red lock outwards, then squeeze tab and pull plug out of housing.

Inner tail light access panel:


Squeeze the black tabs and pull it out:

To undo the plug, pull the red lock outwards, then squeeze tab and pull plug out of housing.

Visor / Vanity Light:

Pull downward on the OUTER edge of each housing, closest to the side windows / furthest from the center console:


Footwells, Glovebox and Trunk:

Use a screwdriver to pry the grooved edge out of the panel, and twist them out. It does take considerable effort as there is a built in tab opposite the side of the wire connector on the clear housing. These 5 are all the same housing, but different bulbs / brightness control methods.

The RIGHT footwell will need to be unplugged before you pull it out since the wires are too short. You can pull down on the kick panel to get more space. The kick panel is very flexible. The screwdriver dimple is on the RIGHT side of the RIGHT housing.
The LEFT footwell has enough wire length to unplug after prying out. The screwdriver dimple is on the RIGHT side of the LEFT footwell housing.

The GLOVEBOX light, the screwdriver is on the left side of the housing. Due to the space available, this was the hardest to change.

The TRUNK lights, the screwdriver grooves are on the BACK edge of each housing.

Use a screwdriver to pry off the metal housing off of the plastic housing that holds the bulb. The metal casing will be HOT if the bulb was on. This metal shielding is a design feature, so be sure to bend it as necessary to put it back on the housing afterwards:
and



License Plate Light:

There's a hook on one side of the housing and a spring on the other. Push the entire housing to the right and then pull down. These can be installed in either direction, so you may need to push left and then pull down. http://i.imgur.com/aQ8CaxN.jpg



OEM vs LED footwells:


OEM brake, tail, reverse and turn signals on right, deAutoLED on the left. The LED pulsing/flickering is not visible to the eye, it's a result of using my phone to record pwm LEDs.


deAutoLED plate light upgrade on left, OEM on right:


EDIT: I had first attempted using cheapo 194 LED Amazon wedge bulbs, but these do NOT work in the footwells (probably due to the PWM?,) and I couldnt get them to connect at all in the trunk, were too blue and too bright for the domes -- they also didn't turn off completely when the 'turn lights no when doors open' button is selected, and thus I have removed the link as I do not recommend using them. The deAutoKey LEDs all work as intended and installed easily.

I've also cleaned up links above to be clearer, removed an imgur album and put direct links to the correct images above.


2018 Launch Edition Atlas, although interior lighting appears to be the same on SE, SEL and SEL non-Premium. Still unknown is the SEL Premium lightig at this time.
 

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FYI on the 3rd row DOME lights. You'll want to be sure to pull from the inside line of the fixture. This may not be 100% obvious from the diagrams. In other words, put your tool in between the plastic pieces, not between the fabric and outer plastic parts.

Useful clarification If you were doing this at 1am like I was...
 

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FYI on the 3rd row DOME lights. You'll want to be sure to pull from the inside line of the fixture. This may not be 100% obvious from the diagrams. In other words, put your tool in between the plastic pieces, not between the fabric and outer plastic parts.

Useful clarification If you were doing this at 1am like I was...
:thumbup: Thanks for adding this, will be helpful for others.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
FYI on the 3rd row DOME lights. You'll want to be sure to pull from the inside line of the fixture. This may not be 100% obvious from the diagrams. In other words, put your tool in between the plastic pieces, not between the fabric and outer plastic parts.

Useful clarification If you were doing this at 1am like I was...
Good catch -- I had the wrong image copy/pasta'd. I've fixed the link an added a note of clarification to the original post.

Thanks!
 

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Help with footwells

Got this package and am very happy with it. Everything has been pretty easy, but I am having issues with the footwells. I cant seem to pry them out...and additional tips???
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Does anyone have basic instruction on removing the outside tail lamp housing to replace the amber turn signal?

Thanks!
Disconnect the harness: pull the lock, push the tab while pulling the harness out -- similar to the inners.

Turn the white T knob 3/4 turn to the left and then pull the outer tail lamp housing straight out backwards.

Notes: The white T handle does not unscrew all the way like other models. The taillight has little clear rubber spacers between the lens and the body that sometimes stick a bit -- almost like doublesided sticky tape, so you may have to wiggle it a bit to loosen them. You may have to turn the white T handle back just a hair from a full 3/4 turn too -- it's more like a slotted lock than a screw. It does have a screw portion to hold it tight and provide some adjustment when reinstalling, but only needs 3/4 turn to unlock.
 

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Disconnect the harness: pull the lock, push the tab while pulling the harness out -- similar to the inners.

Turn the white T knob 3/4 turn to the left and then pull the outer tail lamp housing straight out backwards.

Notes: The white T handle does not unscrew all the way like other models. The taillight has little clear rubber spacers between the lens and the body that sometimes stick a bit -- almost like doublesided sticky tape, so you may have to wiggle it a bit to loosen them. You may have to turn the white T handle back just a hair from a full 3/4 turn too -- it's more like a slotted lock than a screw. It does have a screw portion to hold it tight and provide some adjustment when reinstalling, but only needs 3/4 turn to unlock.



I don't know what the lock or the tab is. There is a black rubber circle 1" tab on the outside that is all I see other than what is inside the access panel behind the outside lamp housing.
 
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