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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
First off, I accept no responsibility if you mess up anything in your car! I am just sharing with the world how I was able to get this to work. After all of the time I spent researching this, I felt it was necessary to document it somewhere where others could benefit from it. I also only discovered how to get this to work on an FIS cluster. It is probably possible on an MFA or standard cluster but I have no idea what else is needed so do not ask me any questions unless you are using an FIS cluster!

Now, on to the specifics…

With the help of Graeme, I was able to install the Audi bulb monitoring system in my Jetta. With the addition of a relay module under the dash, the car monitors the headlights, tail lights and brake lights. If one of them goes out, one of two messages will pop up on the FIS display. The first says “Lights Failure.” This comes on if one of the headlights or one of the taillights goes out.


The second says “Brake light Failure” and will show up if (obviously) one of your three brake lights goes out.


The warnings do not show up until the respective system is energized (you turn on the light switch or press the brake pedal).

I don’t even know how many times I’ve been pulled over for a burnt out light and for some reason it seems all MKIV’s are plagued by having their bulbs die regularly. Since I already had most of the necessary components, this mod only cost me about $50 for the relay and relay socket. There are quite a few other necessities as well though.

Stuff you need:
Lampcheck relay: 4B0 919 471 A
Relay Socket: 4A0 937 529
Repair Wires: (each repair wire has 2 connectors on it)
000 979 212 x2 (extra-large female connector)
000 979 227 x4 (large female connector)
000 979 225 x6 (medium female connector)
000 979 133 x1 (for cluster terminals)
An Immobilizer 3 MKIV FIS cluster (mine is p/n 1J5 920 946 A)
A surface mount 3 diode array. I used this one:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/BAS21TM-7/BAS21TM-7DICT-ND/2918832
VAG-COM
Vagdashcom or VagTacho (for modifying the cluster’s EEPROM)
Soldering Iron
Lots of #18, #16, and #14 wire

So the basic concept is that you have to intercept the circuit going to each bulb and pass it through the relay. There is a resistor that each light passes through in the relay which has a resistance that is close enough to zero that is almost negligible. The relay can detect if there is current across that resistance and determine if the bulb is out or not. Here is a simple explanation…

Standard wiring:
Light switch->Fuse->Light Bulb

All you have to do is insert the relay between the fuse and light bulbs:
Light switch->Fuse->Relay->Light Bulb

Most of the information on the wiring aspect can be found in this thread on tdiclub:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=80035

Sounds simple enough right?

The easy part is doing all of the wiring through this relay. Once it determines what is going on with your light bulbs it sends a signal to the cluster to tell it if there is a problem. The issue with that is… (as far as I know at least), no MKIV cluster comes equipped with the internal circuitry to connect this signal to the cluster’s internal microprocessor. If you enable the warnings in the cluster’s EEPROM, they will show up indefinitely and you will not be able to cancel them or get them to go away… which is where the for mentioned diode array comes in, and probably where most people will give up. I have to admit, opening up a $400 FIS cluster to solder components to the board was terrifying for me, but I decided to give it a go anyways :).

Modifying the cluster:

1. Remove and disassemble your FIS cluster. Once the internal circuit board is removed, locate this area on the board located near the blue plug. The black rectangle circled on the left of the picture is what you have to add (if it is not empty, you are very lucky and do not need to do anything to the cluster! You may skip to step 3).



2. Solder the diode array onto the board. You have to solder it in so that the diodes are all pointing down with respect to the picture. The dot on the chip gives you a frame of reference. This is the missing connection to the microcontroller I mentioned earlier. It basically prevents any voltage from entering the microcontroller and damaging it.



3. Reassemble the cluster and install it back into your vehicle. Now get out the laptop and Vagdashcom or VagTacho!
4. Modify the following addresses in your cluster’s EEPROM:
Change the value at address 1E9 to A9
Change the value at address 1F7 to 35
5. Open up Vag-com and go to instruments and then coding.
6. Add an 8 to the first two numbers of the coding. (07xxx becomes 15xxx).
7. You are now done with the laptop and all of the coding! If you turn the vehicle on, both warning lights should show up.
8. To test if you soldered the diode in correctly, ground pins 6 and 19 on the blue cluster connector. This should cancel both of the warnings. If not, you did not solder the diode in correctly.

Wiring in the relay:

This is the most time consuming part and if you want to do it later as I did, you can ground both pins on the cluster’s blue connector or remove the 8 you added to the cluster’s soft coding. There are 17 wires that you have to connect from the relay. You have to run wires to the cluster, the fuse box, the rear taillights, and two connectors that are located inside of the wiring harness directly behind the hood release lever. You have to actually unwrap part of the body harness to locate them. Just feel around on the harness behind the hood release lever and you will be able to tell where they are. Here is a picture of where they are located:


There are two connectors in this picture, a beige one and a black on in the top that is kind of hard to see. I forgot which one is which but I have the wire colors that you need to tap into.

There will be a bunch of empty spaces in the relay plate underneath the dash. Just put the new relay into any two spots that makes the wiring easiest (it is a double relay so it takes up two spots).

Here is the list… I included the wire sizes based off of the Bentley manual for the Audi TT and the lengths that I approximated when making my harness at my desk. The lengths were all long enough to reach to the respective areas. The list explains where to connect the wire from the lamp check relay. I made a harness at my desk beforehand to simplify things:


Pin 1 – #18, 3’ – Tap into black/blue wire on fuse 5 in fuse box in the driver’s side door.
Pin 2 – #18, 3’ – Connect to ground.
Pin 3 – #18, 5’ – Connect to pin 19 of cluster’s blue connector (brake lights ok signal).
Pin 4 – #16, 20’ – Run a new wire to the rear right brake light and replace the existing red/black wire in pin 4.
Pin 5 – #16, 6’ – Input for the brake lights, located behind hood release. Cut the incoming red/black wire and butt splice your new wire to it.
Pin 6 – No connection
Pin 7 – #16, 1’ – Tap into pin 5
Pin 8 – #16, 15’ – Run a new wire to the rear left brake light and replace the existing red/black wire in pin 4.
Pin 9 – #18, 5’ – Connect to pin 6 of cluster’s blue connector (headlights and taillights).
Pin 10 – #16, 6’ – Input for right rear tail light, located behind hood release. Cut the incoming grey/red wire and butt splice your new wire to it.
Pin 11 – #14, 3’ – Input for left low beam, remove yellow/black wire from fuse 21 in fuse box and connect the new wire instead.
Pin 12 – #16, 6’ – Output to right rear taillight, located behind hood release. Butt splice to the outgoing side of the grey/red wire that was cut in the pin 10 step.
Pin 13 – #14, 3’ – Output to left low beam, cut the yellow/black wire that was removed in the pin 11 step and butt splice to your new wire.
Pin 14 – #14, 3’ – Input to right low beam, remove yellow wire from fuse 20 in fuse box and connect the new wire instead.
Pin 15 – #14, 3’ – Output to right low beam, cut the yellow wire that was removed in the pin 14 step and butt splice to your new wire.
Pin 16 – #16, 20’ – Run a new wire to the third brake light and replace the existing red/green wire in pin 2.
Pin 17 – #16, 6’ – Output to left rear taillight, located behind hood release. Butt splice to the outgoing side of the grey/black wire that is cut in the pin 18 step.
Pin 18 – #16, 6’ – Input for left rear taillight, located behind hood release. Cut the incoming grey/black wire and butt splice your new wire to it.

Once you are finished, turn the car on and neither of the warnings should appear. Test the functionality by unplugging a taillight or one of the headlights. Once you energize the disconnected circuit (turn the lights on or press the brake) it should give you a warning message on the FIS screen indicating which bulbs have failed.

The bad thing about this mod is that you won’t really get anything out of it until one of your lights burns out. I am still eagerly awaiting that to happen.

Good luck!

PS

Here's a video for proof. I took it on my old cellphone so it looks like crap but you get the idea:
 

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Its a Skoda/Audi/Mk4 FIS/Passat Frankenstein Cluster lol I dont even want to look back at how much I spent buying entire clusters just to use one component off of them lol.

Essentialy I am trying to get maxumum functionality out of this thing and this is certainly somthing I missed!

I also need to track down that rear fog light and wire that puppy in but that is easy compared to this.

I wonder how this will work with my retrofits and my OEM Hella Micro De's Also Retrofitted to HID, If it worked for them as well that would be awesome :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The relay can monitor 35W and 50W HID or halogen headlights. Unfortunately, you won't be able to run your fogs through it, just the headlights (if they are the right wattage) tailights, and brake lights.

I have 35W D2S ballasts from theretrofitsource and replica OEM HIDs and the circuit works fine with them.
 

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The relay can monitor 35W and 50W HID or halogen headlights. Unfortunately, you won't be able to run your fogs through it, just the headlights (if they are the right wattage) tailights, and brake lights.

I have 35W D2S ballasts from theretrofitsource and replica OEM HIDs and the circuit works fine with them.
Awesome yeah im running a 50W up top and a 35W for the fogs ohh well, IT sucks because the A4 has a similar circute for the fog lights that just changes the color of the fog light switch if somthing is wrong.


HOWEVER now that my mind is going 1000mph it might be possible to set up a similar circut that turned on the Fog light icon in the cluster IF the fog lights are dead or a bulb is out... I might go this route because my euro fog light switch already changes color when i use my front and rear fog. i dont really need a light on my cluster every time i turn on my rear fogs but it would be nice if it turned on if a bulb was out.

I believe all you need to do is supply 12V+ to pin 14 on the blue connector for the fog light indicator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Awesome yeah im running a 50W up top and a 35W for the fogs ohh well, IT sucks because the A4 has a similar circute for the fog lights that just changes the color of the fog light switch if somthing is wrong.


HOWEVER now that my mind is going 1000mph it might be possible to set up a similar circut that turned on the Fog light icon in the cluster IF the fog lights are dead or a bulb is out... I might go this route because my euro fog light switch already changes color when i use my front and rear fog. i dont really need a light on my cluster every time i turn on my rear fogs but it would be nice if it turned on if a bulb was out.

I believe all you need to do is supply 12V+ to pin 14 on the blue connector for the fog light indicator.
Yup that would work, I wired in my rear fog icon and all you do is run the pin to the wire on the back of the lightswitch so the input to the cluster for the rear fog light is definitely 12V.

Which year A4 has that? There may be a newer model that has a relay with more inputs on it for more lights. I'm pretty sure there is only 1 color LED behind the indicators on the MKIV Euro light switch so that may be from a newer model.
 

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Yup that would work, I wired in my rear fog icon and all you do is run the pin to the wire on the back of the lightswitch so the input to the cluster for the rear fog light is definitely 12V.

Which year A4 has that? There may be a newer model that has a relay with more inputs on it for more lights. I'm pretty sure there is only 1 color LED behind the indicators on the MKIV Euro light switch so that may be from a newer model.
Ah blast I think you are correct! there are 2 led's for the front fog a red and a green and just a red for the rear.

Ahh and blast it again i just called up my roomate with the A4 i thought it switched color for the fog lights when there out but i guess that's exactly what you aid headlights and rear lights only lol. SO back to plan B making the cluster fog light icon light up when the fog lights die. lol

Also some euro clusters have a front and rear fog light indicator on the faces i wonder if pin 15 is for the front fog light cluster light... Hrmmmm
 

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Awesome work by Nate to test for this missing diode on the Golf FIS. :beer:

If you want to monitor the front fog lights with bulb check you can add a second bulb check relay and use the low beam (55W) pinouts...but you would still have to use the same warning symbol for "Lights Failure" and visually assess which actual bulb has blown.

I have seen a guy in Europe do this with the system...and seeing as you have spare pins on the second relay you can also do the front parking lights as well which are not monitored with the OEM system.

You have to wire the two error signal outputs from the relays to the same inputs on the cluster.

There is also another connection to the cluster from the Xenon Automatic Levelling Motors that can be wired up to warn of a failure - but you still only get the "Lights Failure" emblem on a Golf/Passat/Jetta.

I have yet to wire this up fully on my R32 and have not tested it yet.

I think it works over the internal LIN-BUS between the two Xenons controllers. There is a specific Pin in the internal ballast that sends a signal to the cluster Green Pin 21 if there is a failure.

On the Audis for the Levelling Motor failure there is a different emblem that pops up that looks like the symbol on the headlight adjuster rheostat. :cool:

On the Skoda clusters like Einkaufswagen has, there is a "Low Beam" Warning emblem in place of the Cruise Control light on the VW clusters. This is wired to Pin 13 in the Blue Plug.

The front fog light warning emblem is wired to Pin 15 Blue Plug

Rear fog warning is wired to Pin 14 Blue Plug.

Here is a video of the system working in R32:

[video]http://www.users.on.net/~graeme86/lampcheck/Lampcheck.wmv[/video]

:)
 

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Graeme you are some sort of master Eeectrical OEM wizard for sure haha. My cluster is actualy a Standard Euro FIS (1J0 920 946A) so i dont have the Skoda pinouts just the skoda faces :D

It does however make sence to split up my front end pinouts as high beams (Headlights) and low beams (Fog Lights) to accomidate all of my lighting, like you said though my display will only display light failure and would need personal assesment to see which light is out! But because i have Bi-xenon headlights overall this will work perfect!


Either way this is perfect. I can then just hook up the cluster rear fog light (Pin 14) to the rear fogs as intended!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Thanks for the extra info Graeme:thumbup:

I was going to suggest using a second relay as Graeme mentioned but didn't know if you would be up for the extra work haha. If you did that, it would certainly work properly for 35W fogs. All you would have to hook up is pin 1 and 2 to power the relay and the headlight pins (11, 13, 14, 15) just replacing left lowbeam etc with whatever fog you are running it to. Pin 9 from the relay then becomes your signal wire for the fogs lights being ok.

If you want to use the fog light LED on the cluster to indicate an error there is a small problem. When there is no fault in the lamp circuit being monitored the relay connects the output to ground and when there is a fault I think the pin is just floating (I never checked to see, maybe Graeme can chime in). To turn on the fog light LED you have to connect +12V to the fog light pin on the cluster so you're going to need to add something else in there to control that. You could use a SPDT relay or a relay with 1 normally closed contact on it. Hook it up so that when the bulb monitor outputs a ground it energizes the relay and disconnects the fog light icon from 12V. That would probably be the easiest but there are certainly other things you could do.
 

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Thanks for the extra info Graeme:thumbup:

I was going to suggest using a second relay as Graeme mentioned but didn't know if you would be up for the extra work haha. If you did that, it would certainly work properly for 35W fogs. All you would have to hook up is pin 1 and 2 to power the relay and the headlight pins (11, 13, 14, 15) just replacing left lowbeam etc with whatever fog you are running it to. Pin 9 from the relay then becomes your signal wire for the fogs lights being ok.

If you want to use the fog light LED on the cluster to indicate an error there is a small problem. When there is no fault in the lamp circuit being monitored the relay connects the output to ground and when there is a fault I think the pin is just floating (I never checked to see, maybe Graeme can chime in). To turn on the fog light LED you have to connect +12V to the fog light pin on the cluster so you're going to need to add something else in there to control that. You could use a SPDT relay or a relay with 1 normally closed contact on it. Hook it up so that when the bulb monitor outputs a ground it energizes the relay and disconnects the fog light icon from 12V. That would probably be the easiest but there are certainly other things you could do.
2 Relay approach is certainky the way I am going! Graeme and i have also been shooting around some other ideas for other systems today as well :cool:
 

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I had a feeling the only people crazy enough to discuss this would be you three. Thanks for confirming that!
Guilty :D

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