VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum banner
1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
2016 GSW S 5sd - sold
Joined
·
1,316 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Clutch Delay Valve (CDV) removal for MK7 TSI 5 speeds

TL;DR
1) remove airbox
1.5) remove battery tray, see http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...n-TSI-5MTs&p=99077714&viewfull=1#post99077714 for how much more room you'll have
2) release metal clip and pull off clutch line (be sure to catch all the fluid with rags)
3) use something thin, long, and sharp – I found that my 12v test light was perfect for this. You need to push it straight into the block, where the hose just was. The 12v prong is tapered and will actually push into the delay valve snugly, so you can simply pull it out, along with the rubber grommet that kept it in place. Save/discard, your choice.
4) Re-insert clutch hose, push clip down, bleed clutch (DOT 4 and use a 5/16" ish hose and catch bottle!)


My, much longer, experience:
To read about all the praise of this DIY and/or the ECS clutch bleeder block kit see: http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14745

Not much info on the 5MT, though; with someone posting a photo of our different 'block' and guessing it doesn't have a CDV! Based on how poorly this clutch behaves when stopped on a hill with a heavy load and/or AC on, though, I knew it behaved like there was one installed.

I finally had some free time to figure out how to find and remove it. Unfortunately as the guinea pig, I did too much work and spent hours instead of minutes. Once I had it removed, I realized that I did not have to actually remove the entire block to get it out. For the 6MT it comes out from under the bleeder screw. The 5MT does not. Of course I did not know this until I had completely removed that clutch 'block', which is a PITA on the 5MT due to the awkward location of two 13mm bolts that hold it to the transmission. They are too close to allow an offset wrench on them, and very hard to get a socket on. Wobble extensions and all kinds of cursing, finally got it free. Then when renstalling, its actually worse, as there is some weird rubber covered spring going into the transmission, which makes starting those PITA 13mm bolts, even more of a PITA. And your shifters are in the way as well. My fingers/hands are still sore.

Hopefully the pics, along with the short instruction above, will clarify how you can do this while leaving the 'block' in place. All that has to be removed is the clutch line, to gain access to the CDV for removal. You do need something, long, skinny, and tapered for it to come out easily, though. Luckily my 12v test light was perfect. The one thing that went right that day for me.












It feels like a normal clutch now, when driving. Not dampened and numb like previously. As I plan on keeping this car for a long time, this was worth the hassle for me to figure it out. I much rather would have been able to do the short/simple version, though, without removing those damn bolts!

Enjoy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Wow, thanks for the legwork! After reading about this mod on the 6MT I went digging and stopped when I saw the hardware didn't look the same on the 5MT. This post just made my day 😃

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
Clutch Delay Valve (CDV) removal for MK7 TSI 5 speeds

TL;DR
1) remove airbox
1.5) remove battery/battery tray
2) release metal clip and pull off clutch line (be sure to catch all the fluid with rags)
3) use something thin, long, and sharp – I found that my 12v test light was perfect for this. You need to push it straight into the block, where the hose just was. The 12v prong is tapered and will actually push into the delay valve snugly, so you can simply pull it out, along with the rubber grommet that kept it in place. Save/discard, your choice.
4) Re-insert clutch hose, push clip down, bleed clutch (DOT 4)

You do need something, long, skinny, and tapered for it to come out easily, though. Luckily my 12v test light was perfect. The one thing that went right that day for me.
Thank you for the directions/pictures and for going through the trouble of disassembling everything to find the solution. My only addition to the instructions above is to pull the battery/battery tray for easier access to the bleeder/hose (obvious for anyone who has been in there before, but just in case), and perhaps to make sure you have a few different tools to try out for removal of the diaphragm. I ended up using a cosmetic tool (last picture). After removing the diaphragm and washer, clutch operation feels like it should have felt from the factory. Bleeding was fairly straightforward despite being my first time, but I would recommend hooking up a hose into a catch can instead of rags. The bleeder valve is pointed directly at the engine and will spray fluid all over the block/transmission if you're not careful with rag placement. Some additional pictures for anyone interested in trying this:









 

·
Registered
2016 GSW S 5sd - sold
Joined
·
1,316 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I definitely used a hose for bleeding and would hope everyone does!

I also thought of removing the battery tray, but just wanted to get it done with and instead cursed a bunch more. It would make access much easier, and is a good idea for those doing the mod.

How many bolts are on the tray, and did you pull the battery (memory reset and all that) or just move it aside?


The clutch feels ssooo much better now. This, plus 034 insert make it feel really good. The clutch stop helps too, but the CDV removal is the best one to improve your driving experience!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
I definitely used a hose for bleeding and would hope everyone does!

I also thought of removing the battery tray, but just wanted to get it done with and instead cursed a bunch more. It would make access much easier, and is a good idea for those doing the mod.

How many bolts are on the tray, and did you pull the battery (memory reset and all that) or just move it aside?

The clutch feels ssooo much better now. This, plus 034 insert make it feel really good. The clutch stop helps too, but the CDV removal is the best one to improve your driving experience!
I pulled the battery so the memory was reset, but for once I remembered to take a picture of my trip OD for tracking fuel economy. The battery cables are zip tied in a few places preventing them from moving much. If I remember correctly from my short shifter install, I had to cut one zip tie attaching the positive cable on the battery tray in order to pull the tray out.

1 bolt on the battery bracket
3 bolts (hex/allen key works on these too) on the tray attaching it to the engine bay. 1 under the battery, 1 under the airbox, 1 on the right side in a recessed hole 2-3" deep underneath the driver's side headlamp (this one is awkward to remove without a long skinny screwdriver and hex bit).
1 nut (horizontal) on the top right (driver's side) near the firewall

I have been thinking about ordering an 034 insert. How long have you had it installed for, and any significant impact on NVH? Also, v1 or v2?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
I just thought I'd add that I pulled the battery tray to change transmission mounts. The positive battery cable zip tie will release with a little encouragement from a small screwdriver or similar tool. It then pops right back in when you're done.

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
2016 GSW S 5sd - sold
Joined
·
1,316 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I have been thinking about ordering an 034 insert. How long have you had it installed for, and any significant impact on NVH? Also, v1 or v2?
I have the V2, latest version.

My initial thoughts were: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...otorsport!&p=98806569&viewfull=1#post98806569


I've put probably 500 miles on it and it the vibrations are less and less noticeable. It does actually make the 'engine' noise louder - lower RPM acceleration is transmitted into the cabin, giving more noise. I'm fine with that, and it does seem to lessen as it breaks in. Seeing a couple photos of them after many miles, it seems like they can bend and the initial stiffness will wear off a bit. I'm okay with that, as long as it still shifts 'crisp', which is the best improvement by far. Direct feeling gear changes and more direct acceleration are very noticeable. Combined with the CDV removal, it feels quite nice, now.

I haven't had any idle vibrations from it, so that helps too (some report NVH issues at idle w/ AC on or in Reverse)

I was also hesitant to buy the insert. I'd read all the posts on it, then go drive my car and realize it drove fine. I only jumped on it, when I could get one for $40 shipped - I'm a sucker for deals.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,140 Posts
Does this help the 1st to 2nd gear issue ? Where it hangs a bit?

Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Thank you surfstar for this post. The clutch action was driving me crazy, so I pulled the valve today and boy what a difference! It took me a bit to adjust my driving style and now it operates the way it should, and the pedal effort didn't change.

Anyone know why VW uses this valve? I wonder what they were trying to accomplish.
 

·
Registered
2016 GSW S 5sd - sold
Joined
·
1,316 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The car shifts so much better now. For clutch feel, this 'mod' is awesome. 2nd place would be the 034 insert. Combined they make this trans/clutch enjoyable.
Eliminates the 'hang' for all gear changes, especially 1-2.

Supposedly these delay valves protect the drivetrain from poor operators. So few people buy manual trans cars now-a-days, that you would think they know how to drive a stick, as they had to seek out a MT - yet auto engineers want to protect the car from us.

I find it almost a safety issue, as there were times when the car did not want to move after stopping on an incline, had to burn the clutch once and quickly kill the a/c. So much better now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
I just thought I'd add that I pulled the battery tray to change transmission mounts. The positive battery cable zip tie will release with a little encouragement from a small screwdriver or similar tool. It then pops right back in when you're done.
Good to know, thank you.

surfstar said:
I have the V2, latest version.
My initial thoughts were: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...1#post98806569
.....
I was also hesitant to buy the insert. I'd read all the posts on it, then go drive my car and realize it drove fine. I only jumped on it, when I could get one for $40 shipped - I'm a sucker for deals.
Thanks for the link and review. I'm still on the fence for now, but I may go for it next time there is a sale.

I am curious, do you still get rev hang when shifting below 3,000 RPM once the engine warms up? The lack of CDV makes low RPM shifting much more manageable, but the persistent rev hang is still one of my biggest complaints with this platform.
 

·
Registered
2016 GSW S 5sd - sold
Joined
·
1,316 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I am curious, do you still get rev hang when shifting below 3,000 RPM once the engine warms up? The lack of CDV makes low RPM shifting much more manageable, but the persistent rev hang is still one of my biggest complaints with this platform.
Right now, I would say no, as I cannot remember it being an issue on any recent drives - this would be rev-hang in regards to gear changes. I know it would rev hang if I shift into neutral and coast.
After my 'mods', I feel like the gear changes and rpm drop are matched quite well; but this is for my style of driving. If you're driving more spirited with faster shifting, you might still be experiencing rev hang for your driving style.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Problem with bleeding.

Hey guys,

Went through the process, was able to get the plastic part out that had the small hole. I was able to get the rubber part and this plastic piece out with a paper clip. Bent the paperclip to get a straight run on it, and then a very small bend at the end of the straight, to act like a hook. Afterwords, when I was doing the bleeding part, my clutch pedal would have no pressure and would need to be pulled out after getting pushed. I can't drive the car in this condition. Any suggestion on what to do with this? Thank you.

Edit: Need to do more bleeding process, like 20+ times, at one point messed up and lost pressure on the clutch pedal. This mod is definitely worth it. The clutch doesn't have that ambiguity to it as before. It feels like clutch should feel like.
 

·
You can't look at my avatar for just a second, can
Joined
·
9,512 Posts
Did this mod cure the delayed response when initially engaging the clutch?

I've owned a Mk5 & 6 that felt like a 'hichup' or 'stumble' happened when engaging first gear from a stop. The behavior was very consistent and became a source of irritation at times.

Sorry, if I missed it in the thread but am trying to do some research.

TIA
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
53,529 Posts
Did this mod cure the delayed response when initially engaging the clutch?

I've owned a Mk5 & 6 that felt like a 'hichup' or 'stumble' happened when engaging first gear from a stop. The behavior was very consistent and became a source of irritation at times.

Sorry, if I missed it in the thread but am trying to do some research.

TIA
If you use proper technique, there is no reason to mess with the clutch hydraulic system. My completely stock 2016 Mk7 is as smooth as can be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
322 Posts
I believe if you remove the brake/clutch reserve cap, place some plastic wrap over the opening, then screw the cap back on, this could help with loosing fluid.
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top