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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
DynaBeams Workaround
by the.ronin
This document is for informational purposes only. Any vehicle modifications should be done by a certified VW mechanic. Neither the author nor this site will be held liable for actions taken resulting from the information set forth herein.
At the time of writing, Hella DynaBeams would not function properly on U.S. spec cars that did not come equipped with OEM HIDs. The DynaBeams require a signal from a rheostat (standard on E.U. cars) to function. The purpose of this guide is to provide the basis of a rheostat workaround. It is by no means a detailed walk-through as many areas of the workaround could be improved and alternative methods established. General installation tips are provided as well as an alternative method for rigging a failsafe light. Please refer to the Hella manual included with the DynaBeams for step-by-step installation instructions.
The workaround was made possible through a collaborative effort among the author, TMTuning, TDI-4-RD, maloosheck, and Tim Birney. Wiring of the “No Motion” switch is based on research done by zanakas.
Stock halogen headlights on a MY06 2.5L Jetta package 1 build date 11/05 ...



Fully functioning Hella DynaBeams ...



Included Hella failsafe light which is to be “mounted in clear view of the driver” (yeah right) ...


Rigged “No Motion” failsafe light ...


Summary of Procedures
The workaround will be divided into two sections:
I. Installation Tips & Rheostat Workaround
II. “No Motion” Failsafe Light

Section I: Installation Tips & Rheostat Workaround
Parts Needed
Hella DynaBeams and parts included in package
Rheostat switch p/n 1K0-941-333-ARE
Rheostat switch 8-pin connector p/n unknown
Mini Add-A-Circuit with 10 amp fuses (www.littelfuse.com)
Repair wires with connectors (2) p/n 000-979-009
Headlight plug connectors (6) p/n unknown
14 or 12 awg wiring
18 awg wiring
Heat shrink tubing
Ground connectors
Zip ties
Note that at the time of writing, TMTuning (www.tmtuning.com) carries a workaround kit including all parts needed and pre-measured wiring in addition to the Hella DynaBeams.
Tools Needed
10 mm open box wrench
Groove joint pliers
13 mm socket
10 mm socket
17 mm socket
T20 torx bit
T25 torx bit
Volt ohm meter *
Soldering iron and solder *
Precision flathead screwdriver 2.5 mm or 3.0 mm *
Trim removal tool *
* Not necessarily required but would make your life a lot easier.
Refer to the Hella manual for all additional tools. Note that you may need other socket sizes and torx bits other than those mentioned however none are particularly extraordinary and should all be included in your socket and torx sets.

Installation Tips
- Remove the headlight plugs by inserting a flathead screwdriver and pushing towards the plug harness as shown.



- Be absolute certain that the ECU is facing the correct way:



- Incorrect installation of the DynaBeams ECU will cause the headlights to “stutter” and appear as if they are trying to move but “snap” back to the straight forward position. At least this is what I heard. Because I would never make this kind of mistake. Ever. Really.



- The battery and battery tray needs to be removed to better gain access to the firewall, the grounding bolt (just outside of the photo), and to properly lay down the wiring for the rheostat workaround.


Rheostat Workaround
The following is a wiring diagram for the rheostat workaround followed by installation and wiring guidelines.


Connect to OEM Plugs Only – Note that all wiring involve the stock OEM 10-pin headlight connectors only. It does not involve the DynaBeam plugs which act as connectors between the OEM plugs and headlights. Also note that the pin locations on the OEM plugs will be currently empty.
12v IGN+ Power Source – You need to tap into a 12 volt ignition dependent (“12v ign+”) power source. I used fuse location #5 in the cabin dash and tapped into it using a “Mini Add-a-Circuit” with 10 amp fuses in both slots. You may experiment with other fuse locations and amperage but be sure to verify that the power source is ignition dependent with the volt ohm meter. It is recommended to avoid tapping into a 12v ign+ in the engine compartment fuse box.
Three Wires Through Firewall – You ultimately have three (3) wires being fed through the firewall: a) the control wire from rheostat pin #2 (colored red in the diagram above); b) the 12v ign+ wire from pin #1 of the headlight plugs (blue); and c) the control wire from the DynaBeams ECU to the failsafe light (green).
Unlocking the Plugs – The OEM plugs must be removed in order to unlock them and be able to connect the new wires into them. Slide the purple locking mechanism out with a small flathead screwdriver to unlock the plug.


Rheostat Control Wire – Splice two wires from pin #2 of each of the headlight plugs into one wire which will feed through the firewall. Splice this wire into the control wire leading to pin #2 of the rheostat switch. Ideally solder the splices together and wrap in heat shrink tubing.
Power Source Wire – Splice the two wires from pin #1 of each of the headlight plugs into one wire which will feed through the firewall. Splice this wire with that coming from pin #1 of the rheostat switch. This wire will ultimately tap into the Add-a-Circuit in the fuse panel. Ideally solder the splices together and wrap in heat shrink tubing.
Rheostat Connector Rewiring – Disconnect the pins from the original dimmer switch. Reconnect the pins into their appropriate locations (#5, #6, #7, and #8) into the rheostat 8-pin connector. Use electrical tape to tape off the end of the remaining wires from the original dimmer. It is not recommended to splice into the power or ground wire from the original dimmer switch.

Cabin Interior Ground – Splice the two wires from pins #3 and #4 of the rheostat switch into one wire which will tap into a ground source. Ideally solder the splices together and wrap in heat shrink tubing. The ground source used inside the cabin was a bolt at the base of the steering wheel column.
Engine Compartment Ground – Splice the two wires from pin #3 of each of the headlight plugs into one wire which will tap into a ground source. Ideally solder the splices together and wrap in heat shrink tubing. The ground source used in the engine compartment is the bolt on the wheel well behind the battery.

Section II: “No Motion” Failsafe Light
Parts Needed
"Winter Mode" switch p/n 1K0-927-227-A-REH
"Winter Mode" switch 6-pin connector p/n 4D0-971-636
Repair wires with connectors (3) p/n 000-979-009
18 awg wiring
Heat shrink tubing
Ground connector
Zip ties
Tools Needed
T20 torx bit
T25 torx bit
Dremel or small saw
Soldering iron and solder *
Precision flathead screwdriver 2.5 mm or 3.0 mm *
Trim removal tool *
* Not necessarily required but would make your life a lot easier.

The following is a wiring diagram for the "No Motion" switch followed by installation and wiring guidelines.


Switch Placement – Switch locations from driver to passenger side will be referred to as slot #1 to #4, respectively. The "Winter Mode" switch is turned upside-down and placed into slot #1. The ESP switch will be moved over to slot #2. If you have a TPMS switch, that needs to be moved to slot #3. Note that moving the TPMS switch to slot #3 will require some slight dremeling or sawing on the upper right side of that slot to accommodate the switch.
Control Wire – The DynaBeams ECU control wire that was fed through the firewall is spliced with the repair wire leading to pin #4 of the "No Motion" switch (colored green in the diagram above). Ideally solder this splice and cover with heat shrink tubing.
Illumination Wire – Splice the repair wire from pin #3 of the "No Motion" switch to the same pin #3 from the ESP or TPMS switch (red). This will provide the illumination power when the light switch is turned on. Ideally solder this splice and cover with heat shrink tubing.
Ground Wires – Wires from pin # 1 and #6 are to be spliced together and connected to a ground location (brown). There is a bolt at the base of the steering wheel column which can serve as a grounding location. Ideally solder this splice and cover with heat shrink tubing.

******* End of DIY *******
 

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Re: (mkIIIcutiewithabooty)

Dude, I love your car, its the one that convinced me to get PG when comming back to a jetta (that 328 was a POS!) I want those headlights, but I am too farkin lazy to even attempt a tenth of what you do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: (DCubed)

Thanks guys and gal ...
I can't give TMTuning enough props. At the first sign of a problem, they were on the phone with Hella troubleshooting. They put in their own time and effort (and dime) to come up with the basis for a workaround. TDI-4-RD attempted the first go-around while maloosheck and Tim Birney modified and fine tuned the approach ensuring that it was as OEM as possible.
Truly a collaborative effort. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
The saga can be recounted in this thread.


Modified by the.ronin at 9:39 AM 5-23-2007
 

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Re: (the.ronin)

Thanks again Rob. Now I'm actually looking forward to trying this install again (hopefully, this time, I won't f up my car!)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm happy to report that thus far, there has been absolutely no issues with the DynaBeams.
Whorage time ...


I will note that when I checked on the DynaBeams ECU (box that latches onto the chassis) during this workaround, the screws were VERY loose. Damin of TMTuning recommended applying some "Loctite" to keep them secured.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: DIY: DynaBeams Workaround (8tnfox)

Quote, originally posted by 8tnfox »

Hey nice Tag!

Hahaha ... the gangsta pose is because I was rushing to get a good shot of the failsafe light and ended up contorting my wrist like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: (jxmoth)

Quote, originally posted by jxmoth »
I wanted a Tag watch, but then I bought a MKV.

I bought mine in Amsterdam during a completely stoned stupor. It was like a super posh Tag retail store in Daam Square ... the look on the lady's face when I asked whether it was a legit Tag was priceless.
 

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Re: DIY: DynaBeams Workaround (the.ronin)

Finally got my Dynabeams on. Just wanted to say thanks to Ronin, TMTuning, and Soothappens (over on TDIclub.com) for their help. Here's a couple pictures. The Dynabeams are a huge improvement over stock, especially for dark country roads.
I have a 2006 TDI, and I used an "add-a-circuit" for power, using the cabin fuse panel and the 10 amp fuse for the MAF sensor.





Modified by TDI-4-RD at 11:12 AM 11-13-2007
 

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Re: DIY: DynaBeams Workaround (the.ronin)

Not sure if this has been covered or not :
Why a rheostat workaround if you buy the kit that comes with the rheostat? Shouldn't the rheostat supply the required signal?

I bought a dynabeam kit (the light bending kind) from PG Performance with rheostat, and Euro switch with coming home. I am trying to do my homework before the kit gets here.
Thanks
George
 
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