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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys i'm thinking about rebuilding my 1.8l 16V head myself. Is this something that can be done in my garage? What kind of parts and tools will i need? I don't really plan on porting, but maybe a little polishing.
PS. All of the valves and retainers look to be in good shape, i'll problably go with TT valve springs...
 

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Re: DIY head rebuild (MattyDVR6)

Does TT still sell their valve springs? I thought they discontinued them due to the problems that they were having. It seems to be "off" their website too.
(shameless plug #2)
Autotech valve springs are pretty good. I have a brand-new unopened set I can sell you for $100 shipped if you want (before it hits e-bay).
g'luck.
drivingon9.
 

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valve compressor tool, torque wrench, and get all your seals, gaskets, plugs and you should also change your head-bolt as well. Mines, is still open right now, waiting for the head to get back from the shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: (bmanivong)

Quote, originally posted by bmanivong »
valve compressor tool, torque wrench, and get all your seals, gaskets, plugs and you should also change your head-bolt as well. Mines, is still open right now, waiting for the head to get back from the shop.

Is there a VW specific valve spring compressor tool? Where can i score one? Anyone know a good place to get some good valve springs and gaskets?
 

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Re: (ValveCoverGasket)

As it happens I just pulled and stripped my head today.
Hot tip for newbies: give the valve spring retainers a good whack with a hammer onto a socket with a long extension. ASCII graphic representation:
//]}===<
// is the valve spring
] is the retainer
} is the socket: use one smaller than the retainer but big enough to clear the stem and keepers, deep well 15mm gave good results
=== is the extension that keeps you from busting knuckles
< is where you hit it with the hammer, 2 lb sledge recommended
Of course you will be doing it vertically
This is recommended in the instructions of my valve spring compressor, to jar the keepers loose from the retainers. Turns out that just the right whack will actually spring the keepers out and you don't even need the compressor, though of course you will need it for installation. You need the fancy one not the cheap one, mine is a Sykes-Picavant, some English brand, but I'm sure Snap-on has them.
The 16V head gasket set comes as a complete package with new stem seals and everything, about $80.
If your engine is high mileage (at or near 100k) it's widely recomended that you replace the bronze valve guides. That is machine shop work, but stripping the head to the point wher all they have to do is replace the guides will save you a bit. If you want to do any serious work in the ports you need to remove the valve guides anyway, may as well replace them.
I found a nice little plastic cabinet at Ace with 16 compartments to keep all the bits in, which I meticulously labeled before I started, and boy am I glad! You'd be amazed how confusing it can get with 16 of everything to keep track of.
AND!
MAKE SURE you keep the cam caps in order, they MUST go back in exactly the same place AND THE SAME WAY ROUND!
Yes they are numbered but just keep this in mind so you don't screw up. They are line bored in place and mixing them up is certain death. I made a template on a piece of cardboard to lay them out on.
ALl that said, it's an easy job really, get stuck in,that's how you learn. And you have us here to help!

PS: Oh keep in mind that the exhaust valves can NOT be re-ground. And in general be careful with them; sodium filled dontcha know. Expensive and dangerous! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif



Modified by Dubai Vol at 4:13 PM 5-24-2004
 

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Re: (Dubai Vol)

Since you'll have the valves out, a little polishing won't hurt! you can keep it simple to grinder stone bits & flapper wheel bits on an air grinder. might as well!! then send it to head shop if you need a 3 angle, new guides, head shaving, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: (creechsvdub)

Thanks for all the advice guys. I think i'll stick to OE strength valve springs because i plan on selling this head after i finish the rebuild. Anyone know a good place to score some of those suckers on the cheap?
 

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Re: (ValveCoverGasket)

The head work isn't all that hard when it comes down to it. Be careful with your valves though. I don't know if I would use a grinding stone if I were you, just use a good wire brush (on a wheel or dremel tool). You don't want to mess up the grind on the lips of the valves. I did that the first time I tore a head apart, and I had to have all of the valves and valve seats re-ground at a machine shop.
Also, for the valve stems, its always a good idea to replace them, but you can check them too. Once the valve springs are removed, just wiggle the valve around in the guide. There should be just about no play. If there isn't much play, you might be better off just leaving them in there if you are going to sell it. If I remember right, they are a little pricey for 16v's.
My friend takes his valve guides in and out on his own. To remove them, he puts the head on a hot grill and gets it nice and hot to expand the metal. Then if you have a good tool that can sit on top of them well, you just pound them out. When putting them back in, put the head on a grill to get it hot again, and leave the valve guides in the freezer for a couple hours before hand too. Shrink the guides with cold, and expand the head with heat, and you should be able to pound them back in there. But if you can find a machine shop that will do it for a fair price, it's probably better.
-Nick
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Re: (NTRabbit)

Sounds like an excellent idea. I was aware that the machine shop would heat the head up and then set in the valve guides.
Can I reuse the guides once i pull them out? I'm assuming no...
 

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Re: (MattyDVR6)

Quote, originally posted by MattyDVR6 »

Can I reuse the guides once i pull them out? I'm assuming no...

I really don't know the answer to that, but if I were you, I wouldn't take them out unless they need to be replaced. Just wiggle the valve around in there after you remove the springs, and you will be able to tell if they are worn out or not.
-Nick
 

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Re: DIY head rebuild (drivingon9)

Quote, originally posted by drivingon9 »

(shameless plug #2)
Autotech valve springs are pretty good. I have a brand-new unopened set I can sell you for $100 shipped if you want (before it hits e-bay).
g'luck.
drivingon9.

good price i paid 140 cost
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Re: (NTRabbit)

Quote, originally posted by NTRabbit »

I really don't know the answer to that, but if I were you, I wouldn't take them out unless they need to be replaced. Just wiggle the valve around in there after you remove the springs, and you will be able to tell if they are worn out or not.
-Nick

Cool...will they get messed up if i do some minor polishing and smaybe some port matching on the intake side?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Re: (a2gtinut)

Quote, originally posted by a2gtinut »

Your head might need guides and seats redone.
This can be done machine shop.

Damn, somehting i was hoping to get around....
Thanks for the infor everyone, keep it comin!
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: (MattyDVR6)

Unless you plan on doing heads a lot or for profit, you might as well send it to a shop. I've spent about $400 on tools so far. That's for a valve spring compressor and neway cutters and pilots for doing the valve seats. I still want to pick up valve refacers at some point, and need a tool for changing the guides (a drift with a pin on it.)
A note about hitting the spring retainer to get the keepers loose: Be careful doing this. It's very easy for things to move around, and you wind up nicking the valve stems. This is bad for your valve guides.
edit:
No, you can't re-use guides after they're removed. The removal process (hitting them) deforms them.


Modified by angusmf at 12:42 PM 5-25-2004
 
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