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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
updated with foglight illumination

Ive always loved DIYs, and I figure since ive read and done so many, I'd try and return one back to the mk2 community.
Basically I wanted to get all my switches to illuminate the same colour and match my dash, which I a had already illuminated (Next time I do one, I will make a DIY for it too)
So here we go :
Materials Required
1 5 mm blue LED
1 470 ohm resistor
(can both be purchased at any electronics supply store for less than 1$)
1 9v rectangular battery (for testing purposes, its 9v but its enough to light up the LED to test if it works)
2 alligator clips to test the led (optional)
Tools Required
Soldering Iron (30W is plenty)
Solder
2 small flathead screwdrivers
Process
****Please note is that this is for the newer style swtiches only (90+. The old switches are a bit different***
1. Pull out switch from harness and bring it inside DUHH

2. To open the switch you have to be gentle. THere are two tabs, that I slid the screwdrivers beside, and then gently pried it out.
Image uploading. Refresh page to view

Image uploading. Refresh page to view

3. Now as you can see there is the internal part of the switch. The lightbulb should be in there, and is wired in together by two wires. I twisted the lightbulb right out making sure that the wires were still attached to their appropriate pins (you will use one of these wires later it is easier to solder to it than the pins)
4. Now its time to see where you will need to solder. Usuallly on any mk2 swtiches you want to locate pin 58b and 31. 58b is the positive voltage that can be dimmed, 31 is ground. These usually are what provide the illumination .
On this switch you will see that pin 58b is actually connected to what seems to be the casing that goes around the circuitry for the dimmer. You can solder the positive lead of the led anywhere along this tab. I chose to use spot 2, which is on the bottom of the "casing" facing outwards towards the passenger side.
Image uploading. Refresh page to view

31 is the pin that goes directly below the casing of 58b. The wire from lightbulb that used to be there is connected to it. I marked this in my picture as solder point 1.
Image uploading. Refresh page to view

5. Now that you figured out where you want to solder stuff, you are ready to start soldering. First you will need to solder the resistor to the positive lead of the led. This should be the longer leg of the led.
6. Next I test fitted the led inside the little bucket for the bulb, and ran and kind of twisted the now resistored end of the led around to solder point 2, and i bent the bottom 1/8 inch of the negative leg of the led, and fit it under solder pt 1. I also twisted the wire remaining from the lightbulb around the negative leg of the led.
7. Now that everything is fitted, properly I soldered it quickly to their respective points. One thing to note is that you have to be careful about soldering around solder pt 1, because this is your ground and must not touch the casing above.
solder pt1
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solder pt2
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This is what mine looked like. THe pics are kind of bad, and I screwed up and broke off one of the legs of the led and had to solder on other wire on there instead.
8. Hook the positive end of the battery to 58b and the negative to 31 using the alligator clips or wire or just press the battery against the pins, and if everything was good, your led should light up.
9. Now you can use the screwdriver to open up the rocker part of the switch, and then peel off the green plastic, that gives the switches a greenish colour. Put everything back together, make sure that you can click it on and off...put it back in and you should get this
Image uploading. Refresh page to view

Image uploading. Refresh page to view

I also did my defroster switch. It was a lot easier. The process is the same though, open the switch, pull out the bulb, and solder the positive lead to the 58b and the negative to the 31 or the 30 (i forget which one it was there)
Image uploading. Refresh page to view

*****UPDATE*****
Foglight switch
Here are some pics. THe process is very similiar

1. Take apart the switch like the headlight switch above.
2. Pull out the bulb and break off the bottom tab of the bulb cradle (to make the LED fit. It looks like below
Image uploading. Refresh page to view

3.Solder the resistor to the LED and then take a look at the solder points below. The right point is the positive lead, and the left point is the negative lead.
Image uploading. Refresh page to view

4. Do a test fit , run the wires to the correct points and solder it together.
In the below pic I had it soldered, but since the resistor was on the top, it wouldn't clear the top of the switch, so I had to move it down 90 degrees clockwise. The fit is pretty crucial in this switch, you will see for yourself.
Image uploading. Refresh page to view

5. Test it out using the 9v battery, or any other power source you have...
Image uploading. Refresh page to view

6. Remove the translucent green tab on the inside of the switch, put everything back together and voila. Blue illuminated foglight switch

Image uploading. Refresh page to view


I left the switch "on" indicator bulb the way it is, cuz quite frankly i didnt feel like doing it.
Next I will do a defroster swtich mod.
The hazard switch is a bit different and im still working on it.
This whole project took me half an hour for each switch, and that was including the amount of time I spent figuring out where to solder to, and testing.
Wow thats pretty long...let me know what you think, and if you have any questions or comments...after all this is my first diy

Modified by dirtyserb at 8:53 PM 2-13-2006

Modified by dirtyserb at 8:55 PM 2-13-2006


Modified by dirtyserb at 1:36 AM 3-7-2006
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: (Slammed92)

in short...i took out the cluster...took off the white tab where the bulbs are currently plugged in. Pulled off green film that was there and then Iwired and placed 4 leds inside there evenly across the top.
You cant just stick led's where the bulbs went, the light won't be evenly distributed.
 

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Re: (Danno13)

OK one quick question since the LED's that come with alarm systems are ble and are bright as well and are designed to run on 12v. Can I just remove my stock cluster lighting and replace with those? Does anyone know what kind of power is running to the stick cluster lighting? Maybe I can just tap into the power for those and run those instead maybe Ill try it later this week.
 

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Re: DIY- Headlight Switch LED Illumination (dirtyserb)

Wow... I'm impressed! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

1) Very clearly written
2) Great pics
3) Nice lay out
Thanks for your contribution!
Too bad I wasn't aware of the LED thing when I swapped out my dash lighting many moons ago...
 

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Re: (magmacarat)

Do you still retain the ability to dim all the interior lights? I've never checked to see if when you dim the dash lights that the switch lights are also dimmed. If you can do the dashboard LED mod along with this one and keep the dimming capability, that is killer!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Re: (1unique280)

Quote, originally posted by 1unique280 »
OK one quick question since the LED's that come with alarm systems are ble and are bright as well and are designed to run on 12v. Can I just remove my stock cluster lighting and replace with those? Does anyone know what kind of power is running to the stick cluster lighting? Maybe I can just tap into the power for those and run those instead maybe Ill try it later this week.

The leds will be bright enough, but the aren't wide angle like normal bulbs. LEDS tend to focus a bright beam of light on a small area, thats why you cant simply replace the stock ones with leds. They don't diffuse well.

Quote, originally posted by peecee »
Do you still retain the ability to dim all the interior lights? I've never checked to see if when you dim the dash lights that the switch lights are also dimmed. If you can do the dashboard LED mod along with this one and keep the dimming capability, that is killer!

If you wire it into the 58b pins you retain the ability of dimming the interior lights.
The dimmer is actually a potentiometer, and as you turn it the voltage is lowered across the circuit, and thus anything on that circuit track will recieve the lower voltage. Since all the switch illumination uses that current track, and the cluster, you are able to dim everything!
One problem with dimming that I still havent overcome is, that LEDs require much less voltage to work then normal bubls. This means that at its dimmest setting the LEDs are still on, whereas the bulbs were'nt. They are pretty dim however so it doesnt bother me. On the dimmest setting you won't be able to see them in the day. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Re: (Vodafone)

UPDATE
I did my foglight switch...
Here are some pics. THe process is very similiar

1. Take apart the switch like the headlight switch above.
2. Pull out the bulb and break off the bottom tab of the bulb cradle (to make the LED fit. It looks like below
Image uploading. Refresh page to view

3.Solder the resistor to the LED and then take a look at the solder points below. The right point is the positive lead, and the left point is the negative lead.
Image uploading. Refresh page to view

4. Do a test fit , run the wires to the correct points and solder it together.
In the below pic I had it soldered, but since the resistor was on the top, it wouldn't clear the top of the switch, so I had to move it down 90 degrees clockwise. The fit is pretty crucial in this switch, you will see for yourself.
Image uploading. Refresh page to view

5. Test it out using the 9v battery, or any other power source you have...
Image uploading. Refresh page to view

6. Remove the translucent green tab on the inside of the switch, put everything back together and voila. Blue illuminated foglight switch

Image uploading. Refresh page to view


I left the switch "on" indicator bulb the way it is, cuz quite frankly i didnt feel like doing it.
Next I will do a defroster swtich mod.
I also figured out how to do the power windows, but I need someone with power windows to confirm something for me. The top two pins are 5 and 6 and they provide the illumination. Can anyone just pull out their switch and look at the harness, and tell me what colour wires are going into these two pins??
 
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