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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Before I start: huge thanks to SVTWEB, Theresias, syntrix, Tim Birney, NJRoadfan, BRM10984 and anybody helping me out.
Standard disclaimer: This document is for informational purposes only. Neither the author nor this site will be held liable for actions taken resulting from the information set forth herein.
Little background: AFAIK there are 3 types of clusters in mk5:
1. No-MFA - e.g. my '06 TDI pkg. 0
2. MFA (not available in US) - half size, some trip stats + MPG etc, no graphics
3. MFA Plus (this is US hi-line cluster) - full size, compass, stats, graphics from nav etc.
The following steps are going to be covered unless indicated otherwise:
0. Intro
1. Preparation
2. Multifunction Steering Wheel (MFSW) retrofit - covered in excellent DIY by the.ronin
3. Replacing the cluster
4. Wiring the Position Sensing/Compass Module (PSCM) - this step is OPTIONAL - you do not need the compass module to make the cluster work
5. Central Convenience/Comfort Control Module (CCCM) Swap / Central Electronics Control Module Swap - again, this is OPTIONAL, for details refer below.
6. Horn/Siren wiring changes
7. Completion: Adapting immo, Matching keys, Matching the remote opening, Coding radio
Tools needed:
1. Tiny flat screwdriver
2. Torx T20, T25, T27, T30 (do not remember exactly)
3. Trim tool
4. 10mm wrench
5. 10mm triple square wrench
6. VAG-COM + Hex-CAN cable
7. VAG CAN Commander (VCC)
8. Soldering station (or any other permanent wiring method tool).
9. Everything else for the MFSW retrofit
Parts required:
1. The cluster itself. The new ones are crazy expensive. The junk yard is probably the best place to start looking for one. There is a slight problem with the whole hi-line cluster swap: you need to read the immo PIN from your existing cluster and from the new cluster. The only way I know to do it is to use the VCC. I noted that not all of the clusters allow to read their immo PINs. Maybe it is a matter of a different encrypting algorithm not yet implemented in current version of VCC: VAG K+CAN Commander 1.4. Anyway, if you cannot read your own cluster's PIN, I would not even start this mod.
The following clusters work:
1K0 920 952 D (USA '06 TDI, non-MFA)
1K0 920 952 C (USA '06 2.5, non-MFA)
1K0 920 953 D (USA '06 TDI, non-MFA)
1K0 920 971 D (USA '05.5 TDI, MFA+) - controlled with the MFA wiper stalk
1K0 920 972 L (USA '06 TDI, MFA+) - controlled with the MFSW
1K0 920 872 M (CAN/MX '06 TDI, MFA+) - controlled with the MFSW
1K6 920 972 E ( USA '06 GTI, MFA+) - controlled with the MFSW
The following clusters did not work so far:
1K0 920 973 D ('06 TDI, MFA+)
1K0 920 953 P ('07 Jetta, non-MFA)
1K0 920 954 Q ('08 Jetta, non-MFA)
1K0 920 954 F ('08 Rabbit, non-MFA)
2. According to ETKA MFA+ uses different (high line) CCCM module. The high line version allows to make changes in the CCCM from the MFA+ menu (see details below). Be aware that there are different versions depending on the no. of doors:
4-door:
1K0 959 433 AT
1K0 959 433 CC
2-door:
1K0 959 433 AS
Same situation with CECM - you need one to be able to make changes in the CECM from MFA+. For details regarding swap/part no. refer to the.ronin's CECM swap DIY.
3. The compass is optional: the cluster works perfectly without it. The wiring is slightly painful, so it is up to you.
Jetta/GLI: 1K5 919 965 A
Rabbit/GTI: 1K6 919 879 (I have no idea where it is located in Rabbit, so you are on your own)
4. Compass requires harness according to the diagram below:

You can make your own harness using the following parts (Jetta, for Rabbit the plug should be the same):
3D0 972 708 - 8pin flat contact housing
000 979 009 - repair wire (3x as 6 contacts are used, see diagram above)
000 979 021 - repair wire to connect +12V from the fuse box
000 979 137 - repair wire to connect the ground (this one is not verified, as I used some non-oem cable shoe)
Please note that the CAN specs require CAN wire to be twisted pair. If you cannot get one from your local supplier, here is an oem part no.:
000 979 987 - CAN-BUS cable in bag (10m)
You might also need something to wrap the whole harness with:
000 979 950 - webbing adhesive tape
AFAIR my power wires (+12V and ground) were 3.5m long while the CAN wires were 4.2m long. But measure it on your own to make sure it is long enough.
Last comment before we start: please disregard the fact that there are several different parts disassembled on the pictures. I was doing few other mods in the same time.



Modified by maloosheck at 2:53 PM 11-3-2008
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Re: DIY: hi-line cluster (maloosheck)

1. Preparation
1a. Reading PIN of existing (OLD) cluster with CAN VAG Commander:





Please note that the current odometer value is in kilometers. Also, the immo PIN is 4 digits here, but it will require a preceeding 0 when entered in VAG-COM for adaptation purposes. Oh, BTW all the immo PINs in this DIY are fake ones.
1b. Reading current cluster coding with VAG-COM:


1c. Reading current CCCM coding with VAG-COM.
Due to different byte location in CCCM it is necessary to make screenshots of every single byte in long coding. Here is my pkg. 0 coding (few mods from stock):
















Now, with all these information time for the next step: disconnect the battery (negative first).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: DIY: hi-line cluster (maloosheck)

2. Multifunction Steering Wheel (MFSW) retrofit
Refer to excellent DIY by the.ronin here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2938601
Please note that certain clusters work with the certain configuration of Multi Function (MF) buttons or stalk. For most of the gasser drivers it is safe to install the GTI/GLI cluster along with the GTI/GLI MFSW.
My cluster requires stalk for proper operation. I still can use buttons to do all the operations the same way as the stalk: keeping up/down button for 5 seconds to enter the menu.
I am currently looking for the opportunities to install one (as well as to replace the double stalk cruise control), so I can later expand this section.



Modified by maloosheck at 11:34 AM 12-26-2007
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: DIY: hi-line cluster (maloosheck)

3. Replacing the cluster
Lower and fully extend steering wheel column.
Pry out the cover under the cluster.

Remove two TORX bolts under the cluster.

Pull out cluster.

Two clusters next to each other.

Install the new one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: DIY: hi-line cluster (maloosheck)

4. Wiring the Position Sensing/Compass Module (PSCM)
This is the most time consuming process.
Remove the driver footwell cover (2 TORX bolts)

Unplug the footwell light and OBD plug

Open fuse box and remove left middle a-pillar cover

Pull out the hood release lever clip


Pull out the lever

Remove the bolt cover and unscrew the plastic bolt

Pull out the remaining insert

Remove the lower a-pillar cover. It is held by the sill cover, so it necessary to pull the first sill clip out (see red arrow).

Pull out all 4 sill cover clips around front doors

Remove the covers from LATCH anchors

Pull up the front of the seat to release 2 loops.

Move the seat back to unhook 2 side loops. Remove the seat.

Unscrew the rear sill cover plastic bolt
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content

Remove the trim from the center backrest bearing

Unscrew bolt (TORX, 9Nm/6.6ft-lbs) and remove the clamp

Remove left backrest bearing

Slide out left backrest from the pin

Remove the nut (M10, 8Nm/6ft-lbs) and pull the side upholstery upwards out of two mounts

Pull out the sill cover clips around rear doors. Slide out the sill cover at the b-pillar and remove the sill cover.

Gently pull out rear airbag sign (Bentley suggests to replace it)

Remove the nut (TORX, 4Nm/3ft-lbs)

Pull the c-pillar cover from 4 clips

Using the small flat screwdriver pull out the covers of the upper LATCH anchors. Remove the bolts (M10 triple square, 20Nm/15ft-lbs)

I have not fully removed the rear shelf. It is attached with 4 clips in the front side. I pulled out 3 starting from the left just to be able to wire the harness under the shelf behing the seat belt.
This is the spot inside the trunk where the compass module is attached:

This is the compass module. Mine came with the M10 nut to secure it in place. But it has its own clips, so the nut is not necessary.

Installed module:

Wire the harness from the module to the left side of vehicle...

...behind the seat-belt, down to the sill (zip tie to existing harness)...

...inside the sill wire retainer and under the carpet...

Remove the front carpet clip

Wire the harness under the carpet so it ends around the hood latch

This is where I made a short-cut. You need to wire the +12V to the fuse box. So you need the access to the rear side of fuse box. You have two choices: either remove the driver side dash trim aorund headlight switch, or just unbolt the fuse box. Whichever route you take, TAKE A PICTURE of your fuse box and remove all the fuses

Remove the fuse box rear cover (3 clips)

Using the small screwdriver unclip the big pink part and slide it down

Insert the +12V wire in the fuse #17 location (Jetta, no idea about Rabbit).

Slide the pink part up until clipped back. Install all fuses according to the PICTURE TAKEN EARLIER. Install additional 5Amp fuse in the slot #17. Put the fuse box rear cover back.
Bolt the ground wire to a-pillar ground point

Locate the CAN Gateway, unplug the harness, remove the zip tie and red cover

This is the hardest part: solder the CAN wires - CAN-High to pin #20, CAN-Low to pin #10. As easy as it may sound, it is not. It was the first time for me to solder upside down, so take every precaution possible (protecting glasses etc.) to make sure you will not get burned.
Make sure the soldering points are properly isolated. I used the heat shrink sleeves to cover the soldering.
You can avoid soldering to the esixting harness by making a CAN extension as described in excellent OEM Bluetooth DIY by mdonis here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3488355
Whichever way you go, make sure pin #20 is back in #20 location, and pin #10 is back in #10 location.

Put the red cover back, zip tie the cables and plug it back to CAN Gateway.
The rest of the installation in the reverse order.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: DIY: hi-line cluster (maloosheck)

5. Central Convenience/Comfort Control Module (CCCM) Swap / Central Electronics Control Module (CECM) Swap
The only reason to swap these two modules is to have access to options coded in these two modules from MFA+ menus.
If you have high line CCCM you will find the CONVENIENCE menu in SETTINGS. If you have high line CECM you will find the LIGHTS & VISION menu in SETTINGS:



For CECM swap/coding refer to the.ronin's DIY. Below I have described how to swap CCCM.
The CCCM is located behind the glove box.
Remove the trim over the ashtray

Remove the bolt (TORX) on the right side (see arrow)

Remove right dash cover

Remove right middle a-pillar cover

Remove 3 lower glove box bolts (TORX)

Remove 3 upper glove box bolts (TORX)

Slide the glove box to the right as far as it stops and take it out. I recommend to remove lower a-pillar cover (one clip + clip under sill cover).
Disconnect 3 plugs (box open switch, box light, footwell light) and the cooling pipe. Side note: I noted the bolt holding footwell ventilation pipe was not to be fully bolted. Rattling source?

Pull the tab gently to the left and slide the CCCM to the left.

This will disengage the plug lock. The closed lock:

The open lock:

Pull out the plugs

Remove 2 M10 nuts and remove the CCCM retainer

Pull the tab gently to the left again and fully slide the CCCM out

Released CCCM:

Internals (non-MFA CCCM, MFA+ CCCM)

Installation in the reverse order. The cooling pipe is a PITA to install back but it can be slightly pulled out.


Modified by maloosheck at 12:16 PM 8-20-2008
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: DIY: hi-line cluster (maloosheck)

6. Horn/Siren wiring changes
As discussed in the Horn/Siren thread (http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2754999) there are changes in the wiring of the horn between non-MFA and MFA clusters.
I believe there should be no negative impact if the horn wiring remains unchanged after MFA+ retrofit. My understanding is that the relay in MFA horn setup allows to block the ATA Confirm, so this is the only thing that will be affected, but don't quote me on that.
Anyway, I have installed the siren.
Here are the required changes in wiring:

The required parts:
1. Siren - 1K0 951 605 C (I got A and it works)
2. Siren plug and 3 contacts (please chime in, if you know part no., my siren came with the plug and contacts, so I have no idea).
Remove the horn by drilling two rivets:

This is the grommet I used to wire the LIN line:

Wired LIN:

At the Horn/Siren connector side (disregard the messy blue wires, I was testing the siren):

When you push the wire through the grommet and foam isolation (using the coat hanger wire), this is the place where it comes out:

Wire LIN line to the CCCM:

Pull out contacts from T6/3 and T18/1 and connect them together:

Plug the LIN wire to T6/6:

Siren in place:

For coding changes refer to 7i below.


Modified by maloosheck at 1:56 PM 1-9-2008
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: DIY: hi-line cluster (maloosheck)

7. Completion: Adapting immo, Matching keys, Matching the remote opening, Coding radio
Before you connect the battery back, go check your connections again.
ASSUMING YOU CHANGED YOUR STEERING WHEEL AS WELL, MAKE SURE YOUR KEYS ARE IN THE IGNITION IN THE "ON" POSITION before reconnecting the battery! In case of any problems with an airbag it will deploy while you are outside the car.
Once you connect the battery back this is your "Welcome to the new cluster" screen.

7a. Reading PIN of NEW cluster with VAG CAN Commander:




As you see the cluster is far beyond 100k of kilometers.
7b. Adapting immo with VAG-COM:
The procedure is fully described here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/inde...er.29
Open 25-Immobilizer and select Security Access-16:

Enter the PIN of NEW immo. Remember about the leading "0": the NEW immo PIN was 5107, so enter 05107. Do it!

This is the message when the PIN was accepted:

Per Ross-Tech Wiki: The instrument cluster now shows Immobilizer Adaptation active, wait until it changes to Immobilizer active - this may take up to 2 Minutes.
Well, my did not show it, or maybe I just did not notice.
Still in 25-Immobilizer select Adaptation-10. Enter 050 in the Channel Number. Press Read.

Enter the PIN of OLD immo. Remember about the leading "0": the OLD immo PIN was 6235, so enter 06235. Test.

Save, Done, go back:

Close Controller.
Switch OFF the ignition and let the car sit for ~1 minute, then switch ON the ignition again. Verify that the NEW (USED) instrument cluster now shows the VIN/IMMO-ID of the vehicle now:




7c. Matching keys:
The procedure is fully described here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/inde...ching. Collect all the keys to your car (usually 2 keys with remote and 1 valet key) before proceeding.
Open 25-Immobilizer and select Measuring Blocks-08:

Select Block 001 and Go! The value in field 3 must be Yes. If value is No, the key is not capable of being adapted to Immobilizer. You have to check each key in this manner.
Select Block 003 and Go! Make sure the shown lock times in field 1, 2 and 3 are 0 (each field represents a time in minutes). If the lock times are NOT 0:
- Do NOT switch off the ignition!
- Allow the car to sit for AT LEAST the number of minutes that were indicated by the fields 1-3. You will see the number decreasing down to 0.

Still in 25-Immobilizer select Security Access-16. Enter the PIN of OLD immo. This is your current immo PIN. Remember about the leading "0": the OLD immo PIN was 6235, so enter 06235. Do it!

This is the message when the PIN was accepted:

Still in 25-Immobilizer select Adaptation-10. Enter 001 in the Channel Number. Press Read.
The "Stored Value" is the number of keys currently matched. Enter a "new value" corresponding to the total number of keys to be matched, including any existing keys (usually 3, see above). The old keys are automatically beeing cleared.

Test, Save, Done, Go back. Close Controller.
Now, the essential part: Repeat the following steps until all keys have been matched:
- Switch ignition off and remove key.
- Insert next key to ignition and switch ignition on again.
- The warning light for the Immobilizer will light up for ~2 seconds, then go out Switch ignition off and remove key.
Note: The above steps after saving the adaptation, should not exceed 60 seconds!
When you are done with all (3) keys, the immo light should be gone:

7d. Coding the cluster and adjusting the odometer:
With VAG-COM open 17-Instruments. Check the current coding in Soft Coding field. If it is different from your old cluster coding select Coding-07:

Enter your old cluster coding in the Software Coding field. Do it!

With VAG CAN Commander select 07 Kombi, Open Channel, Instrument/Immobilizer. Then Read current odometer value. In the New odometer value enter your old cluster odometer value in kilometers. Change odometer.

Once you are done, you should get back to the original odometer:

7e. Coding CCCM:


As you can see the new CCCM is 19-byte long as compared to the old one (14-byte long). Code the options according to the coding of the old one. I left undescribed options as they were originally coded (my CCCM was from GLI).



















Note: the horn confirmation is disabled (byte 10 and 11) in my configuration until I wire the siren.
7f. Matching the remote opening
The procedure is fully described here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/inde...aring. Collect all the remotes (usually 2) before proceeding.
Clearing existing remotes: Open 46-Central Conv. and select Adaptation-10. Select channel 000. Read. To clear all matched remote controls press Save. Done, Go Back. Close Controller.

Matching your remotes: Open 46-Central Conv. and select Adaptation-10. Select channel 001. Read. The value does NOT show the actual number of adapted remotes:
0 = All memory positions occupied, matching of additionals keys not possible, clear memory positons first (see above).
1 = Matching of additional remotes possible.
Start matching your remotes with entering "1" as new value. Test. Save. Press the unlock button on each remote control you want to add, the blinkers will light up to confirm the adaptation process of each remote.
Note: The time for matching remotes after saving the new value should not exceed 30 seconds.
Done, Go Back. Close Controller.

7g. Coding the radio
Upon turning on the radio it is required to enter the radio code that should be included in the Owners Manual. In case of mine it was simply pressing each button X times and then pressing OK.

7h. Enabling the compass in CAN Gateway
Open 19-CAN Gateway and select Coding-07

Open Long Coding Helper

Enable bit 3 in Byte 4: [1C] Position Sensing

Open 1C-Position Sensing and verify correct Soft. Coding:

7i. Coding the siren
Open 46-Central Conv. and select Coding-07:

Select Long Coding Helper:

Select bit 4 and clear bit 7 in byte 16 (19-byte long CCCM):

Enable locking/unlocking confirmation (only if previously disabled):



Transfer coding, Close Long Coding Helper, Do it!
The siren is listed as a subsystem in CCCM. Select Output Tests-03:

Select Alarm Horn (H12) and Start. The "cricket" should start making its noises.

7j. MFSW coding and adaptation
See the.ronin's DIY mentioned above.
7k. Final touch
Run Auto Scan and clear all the DTCs. Run Auto Scan again to ensure there are no DTCs resulting from the new setup.
Enjoy your new cluster.



Modified by maloosheck at 1:55 PM 1-9-2008
 

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The most useful thread ever http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Some questions
My ride is equipped with multi-function steering wheel and mid-line instrument
Steering wheel Labels: 1K0-953-549.LBL
Part No: 1K0 953 549 AG
Instruments Labels: 1K0-920-xxx-17.LBL
Part No: 1K6 920 862 D
Central Conv. Labels: 1K0-959-433-46.LBL
Part No: 1K0 959 433 AJ

Is my CC module for MFA, or MFA+ ?

& thank you for taking the time to prepare this great DIY



Modified by EL_3grab at 4:28 PM 12-26-2007
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Re: (EL_3grab)

Quote, originally posted by EL_3grab »
My ride is equipped with multi-function steering wheel and mid-line instrument
Steering wheel Labels: 1K0-953-549.LBL
Part No: 1K0 953 549 AG
Instruments Labels: 1K0-920-xxx-17.LBL
Part No: 1K6 920 862 D
Central Conv. Labels: 1K0-959-433-46.LBL
Part No: 1K0 959 433 AJ
Is my CC module for MFA, or MFA+ ?

The non-MFA and MFA clusters share the same (non MFA+) CCCM.
1K0 959 433 AJ is a 2-door MFA (non MFA+) one.
By the way: could you be so kind to take a picture of your cluster and post it here? I do not have any picture of mid-line (MFA) cluster handy.
 

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Re: DIY: hi-line cluster (maloosheck)

Nice work http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif, and looks like quite a lot of it

Very good write up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Max
 

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Re: (maloosheck)

Quote, originally posted by maloosheck »

The non-MFA and MFA clusters share the same (non MFA+) CCCM.
1K0 959 433 AJ is a 2-door MFA (non MFA+) one.
By the way: could you be so kind to take a picture of your cluster and post it here? I do not have any picture of mid-line (MFA) cluster handy.

It's the same one on the left (half screen) but of course with GTI gages http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
anyway, here is a pic http://www.gulf4cars.com/vb/at...60735


http://abritus72.com/VAG_K+CAN...s.pdf
The Commander + used instrument > New intrument... I think?!



Modified by EL_3grab at 8:53 PM 12-26-2007
 
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