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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I made this DIY a long time ago but only had it posted on another forum. I figured you ladies over here on the 'Tex might get some use out of it.

*I assume no responsibility for any damages incurred from use of this DIY. It is intended as a chronological explanation of how I did this to my vehicle and any damages incurred are the sole responsibility of the end user. Be Safe!

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What you'll need:

(3-4) Hockey Pucks (stock height is ~3.5 pucks, I used 3)
(1) 6" 3/8 bolt (grade 8+)
(1) 3/8 Nut (I used NyLoc)
(2) 3/8x1.0 fender washers
(1) 3/8 lock washer

Jack, Jackstands
Piece of wood to jack up under oil pan.
Penetrating Oil (PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, etc.)
13, 14, 15mm sockets
extensions
blue Loctite
Acetone
Contact cement
Drill
3/8 or 1/2" drill bit (I used 1/2" spade bit)

*note: I went a little overboard with using the NyLoc with the lock washer AND blue Loctite. You can get away with using just one of these ways but I wanted to ensure it wouldn't come off unless I wanted it to.

Time to get dirty!

First, I'm starting off with a few pucks I got for free from my friends girlfriend (figure skater). Not bad condition at all. They're .:R Edition pucks :D



Get your Acetone, a rag, your pucks and contact cement together.



I wiped the faces of the pucks with Acetone and stood them on their sides to keep the faces clean.



Apply a layer of contact cement to one face of 2 pucks.



and then sandwich those faces together



do the same with and exposed face of the 2-stack and a face on the third puck. Sandwich again.



The cement will harden and allow you to drill straight through without the pucks spinning and will keep them from squeaking once installed. Put your bit on the drill and try and drill as center as you can. I marked 2 intersecting lines from either end of the puck to give me a general idea of where center is and then drilled. I wallowed the hole out a bit for a bend in the bolt you'll see in a bit.



Get your hardware together



and this is how it will go together.

Bolt>Washer>Pucks>Washer>Lock Washer>Nut



Jack the car up, put on jackstands and shake to make sure it's secure. Put the piece of wood between the jack and oil pan and jack up a bit to relieve pressure on the mount.

Next, remove the 2 nuts/bolts from the bottom of mount (under the front subframe) and the single nut from the top of the mount. You may have to let them soak in Penetrating Oil before they'll come off. I don't have pics of the bottom 2 but here is the top.



One those are off jack the motor up a bit more to give yourself room to remove the old mount. I don't have any pics of the nut/bolt removal as one of the bottom nuts snapped off on me and I was too concerned with getting the mount out than taking pics.

New vs. Old



Using a vice and a piece of pipe or metal bar, put a bend in the bolt ~2" from the head.



Put the pucks where the old mount was and Lower the engine a bit to make sure the holes line up. Then, run the bolt and 1 washer up through the bottom of the subframe and put the washer, lock washer and nut on the other end. I put a bit of blue LocTite on the threads to make sure nothing backs off unless I want it to. Lower the engine completely until it's resting on the pucks. Tighten down. It will look like this from the bottom.



Lower the car off of the jackstands and enjoy your new "ghetto solid mount" ;):thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
****Afterthoughts****

Vibration: I expected a lot more vibration but it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. It's definitely more noticeable that before but from what I hear it's the rear mount that does most of the vibration dampening. I don't mind it so I think I'll be getting the poly insert for the rear mount next.

Performance: My old mount was pretty beat and I got a lot of movement when letting off or getting back on the gas in gear. Hardly any movement now and acceleration feels amazing. A high-RPM 1/2 shift can spin the tires again and I haven't been able to do that since I lowered the car on stiffer springs. My shifter bushings aren't the best but gear engagement is a lot better and shifting is much smoother, especially @ high-load or high-RPM shifts.

Longevity: I don't drive my car a whole lot, and exponentially less now that my license is suspended, but in the past week I've been on her pretty good. No signs of cracking or any other sort of failure from the pucks or the hardware. They hold up very well to the heat and temperature cycles (they do this already when used on the ice).

All in all, it is definitely worth the $10 I spent on supplies for this. Add in puck cost (if you aren't able to score some free ones) and for ~$15 you have yourself a very capable front motor mount that stands up to the comparable $50+ solid front motor mounts. IF you have the time and the means, I say go ahead and try it. If you don't like it, it's only a 10 minute job to undo. :thumbup:
 

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did this a few months ago. best investment yet. and about 6 months before this i had brand new mounts in the car. difference is night and day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Can I use 4 pucks to raise the oil pan or will this cause any binding issue?
I don't see that being an issue. I would've gone with 3.5-4 pucks but my hood barely clears my ABA with 3. That's the only thing that may be a problem: hood clearance.



And a little update: I'm using the same pucks from the 1.8 on my ABA swap. Still holding strong as ever, even holding down the extra torque from the ABA.
 

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I don't see that being an issue. I would've gone with 3.5-4 pucks but my hood barely clears my ABA with 3. That's the only thing that may be a problem: hood clearance.



And a little update: I'm using the same pucks from the 1.8 on my ABA swap. Still holding strong as ever, even holding down the extra torque from the ABA.
Awesome thanks man. I have an aba swap as well, but I think i'll try 4 and see if the manifold clears or not.

Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2
 

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FV-QR

Pay shipping and throw me a few bucks for them, and I'd be willing to.

Also, you cant just lift 1 mount with out doing the other 2
 

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Pay shipping and throw me a few bucks for them, and I'd be willing to.

Also, you cant just lift 1 mount with out doing the other 2
yesss ya can. i have a BFI .5 in the rear (mk3 k-frame with my aba swap) with a g60 trans mount and a stock front. puts the motor at a little lean but you don't really notice it unless you're looking for it. no drivability issues, other than my TB hitting the hood lol.

it's a triangle set up with 3 mounts. lifting any one will not effect the other. if you had a vehicle with 4 mounts and lifted one, that'd be a different story. like when you have the legs of a chair that aren't perfectly flush. it'd teeter one way or the other. with 3 it's okay. probably not best to put a lean on a motor in general, but a 1/2 lift on a motor mount on a 3 mount car really isn't a big deal. just my 2c
 

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Here in central Alabama hockey pucks are few and far between......so went to Academy Sports and snagged a rubber roller like they use on boat trailers, perfect size and the hole is already drilled - cheap too, less than $5 and I'm going on 7 or 8 years with no problems.
 

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It seems a bit ghetto but I tried this when my front motor mount gave way and I was broke. I drove the car for probably 10,000 with zero issues. There was very little vibration and I swear my transmission shifted smoother afterwards.

It hurt my soul a bit knowing I had hockey pucks holding my engine up so I replaced it with a solid mount from GAP. People get a chuckle when they see it!
 

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I just did this DIY to my GTI and the vibration is noticeable at start-up and at idle, but once I am moving its non-existent. Shifting seems smoother also, probably from the lack of front to back engine movement with these pucks in. Had to bend the bolt a couple times to get the correct angle. Very nice and a great cheap alternative.:thumbup:
 

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For about $8.00 for the pucks and hardware and then a little time, if you don't like it change it out. It's not like it takes much time to change it out..
 
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