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621 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I needed to replace my rear brakes on my mk5 jetta 2.5 so I figured I would write up a little DIY on how to do it. Its pretty straight forward as far as a brake job goes I just had some extra time on my hands

First off, I just realized how many damn pics I took lol. I tried to make this a nub friendly as possible.
Now to the good stuff:
The oddball things you are going to need:
14mm triple square driver, also known as a spline drive. I checked locally here (rochester MN) and very few people even know what this is, and even fewer sell them. Just for reference to save yourself some time if you think your going to buy one of these locally this is where I checked.
Sears - N/A
Napa - Has 8mm to 12mm, they can't order 14mm
O'Reillys - Has 8 - 12mm at some stores
Advance Auto - N/A
Fleet Farm - N/A
Home Depot - N/A
So really your only option is to order one. I got one from Matco the P/N is: CQ14M2B
I saw 2 listed on their site, but I couldn't figure out the difference between them. Looking back I think the cheaper one (the one I got) is the style where you put it in a socket. The other must be a whole socket.
I tried a long one that I borrowed from my mechanic. It doesn't work, its too long.
Second you will need a caliper reset tool. DO NOT just push the piston back in, you will probably break it. The caliper piston needs to ratchet back in. I rented my kit at Advance Auto.
Heres the rest:
13mm open end wrench
16mm open end wrench
17mm deep socket
t30 torx socket
Breaker bar
Brake part cleaner
Brake anti-squeal past/can
Torque wrench
Needle Nose vice grips (not shown, this will make the job a LOT easier)
Flat head screw driver
Floor jack (I used the factory one, my good one was elsewhere)
Jack stand
Rotors, NON-HD, OEM P/N: 1K0-615-601-L
Pads, OEM P/N: 1K0-698-451-G

Here is the 14mm triple square driver

And this is how it works!

First carefully remove your badass hub cap

Loosen up the lug bolts, 17mm

Jack up the car, you can sorta see the arrow for the jackpoint on the pinch weld

Insert jack stand

Remove the wheel!

Ok, first to come off is the bolts for the caliper guide pins. The actual bolt part on the back is a 13mm. The nut in front is a 16mm

This is where the needle nose will come in handy. The 16mm nut is narrow, and you can't really fit a wrench on it. You can clamp on the needle nose just to hold it so you can crack it lose, then put the 16mm on like such:

After you get the top and bottom off, you are going to realize that you left the e-brake on and that's why the caliper isn't coming off. Now is a good time to chuck up the front wheels and take the brake off

While you're at it, throw on some MC Chris to pass the time

Now the caliper will come off

Take your flat head and pop the pads off. They just go outward

MMMMM Look at the meat left on my inner pad, I bet in 2 miles I would have hit backing plate! lol

Now to get the caliper carrier off
There's 2 big bolts, the 14mm triple square one

I would suggest blowing the heads of them with some compressed air or something. I had a lot of sand and road gunk in the heads so the socket wouldn't sit in right. I bet it wouldn't be fun at all to strip these out. They are TIGHT, and really awkward to get to
Well my socket didn't work because it was impossible to get on straight. It would probably work swell if you had the car up on a lift so you could swing your wrench from the bottom. But since I'm a badass and use jack stands I couldn't

Here's the bugger:

I don't know why they couldn't just use regular hex bolts, or even damn allens like I am used to seeing on VW brakes.... *******s.
Now the caliper carrier will come off

Now all we gotta do is get the rotor off!

There's just 1 t30 torx to hold it on

This is about the time you realize you should have loosened this up before taking the brakes off.

Woot! Now its all taken apart

My inner pad damage

Open up your pads and it should have come with new anti-rattle clips, guide bolts, and of course the pads

Pop off the old anti-rattle clips, and put the new ones on

You can see on this carrier the boot for the guide pin popped off at some point. Check yours over and push them back on the lip if they did. Not a huge deal or anything. If you feel like it you can take the pins out and re-lube them.

New rotor

Generally speaking new rotors are going to have an oil coating on them so they don't rust on the shelf. Take the new rotor outside and hose it off with the brake part cleaner. Get all the oil off the rotor. Oddly enough these OEM ones didn't have it, I hosed them anyways, not going to hurt it or anything.
Side note: Don't get that crap in your eyes. It hurts like f*&king hell. I got a nice droplet in my eye a year or so back when I was soaking down an oil pan. Got me right behind my damn glasses. The vicodin from the ER was nice. The permanent vision loss wasn't.
Ok, mount the damn thing up

Re-install the caliper carrier and put some anti-seize on the bolts so they come out next time. Then add the pads. I bought anti-squeal for the back of the pads, I then noticed the OE pads already had a pad on the back for this, so I didn't put any on. If you are using aftermarket stuff just read the directions on what you need to do.

Now is the time to bust open your brake service kit. I rented mine from Advance Auto. Find the appropriate adapter for the piston.

You can see after you assemble the tool there are 2 bits that stick out and will go into the caliper piston to turn it

The 2 notches on the piston is where they fit.
Check your brake fluid level now. If its nice and full you will want to take some out. When you retract the caliper piston its going to raise the level in the reservoir. You should be ok unless someone added more fluid for whatever reason at some point.

Tighten (rather loosen) up the hex deal on the back and turn the handle clockwise. The piston should retract in some. Tighten the hex again and repeat until you get it in all the way. Don't crank the hex part down too hard or you won't be able to turn the handle. Its just tedious.

Here you can see the piston is fully retracted

Your pads should have come with new guide pin bolts, VW suggests that you replace these when you put in new pads. Mount up your caliper.

Put the wheel back on and torque to 90 FTLbs

Install hubcap and congratulate yourself for a job well done!

Now do the other side...
Torque Specs:
Caliper Carrier bolts (triple square ones): 90nm/66 FTLbs + one 90 degree turn.
Guide pin bolts: 35nm/26 FTLbs

Modified by equate at 6:31 AM 2-5-2009

621 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: (ZoomBy)

Yeah I saw the DIY thread had one about changing pads, but not rotors. I don't know who just changes pads and not at least turning the rotors.
I'm the kinda guy that will run to backing plate all the time though lol.

621 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: (MOMO Vento 96)

Quote, originally posted by MOMO Vento 96 »
why not paint the calipers while your at it.

Because it only adds 1/3hp versus the whole 5hp when they are sittin behind steelies and a hubcap.
No ones gonna see them.

12,745 Posts
This is good info. I could not, for the life of me, get those triple square bolts out. I gave up and just replaced my pads (they were slightly used anyway). I figure when I replace my front brakes I'll just do the whole rears again. NBD.
Thanks for the right up.

1,018 Posts
Great DIY thanks.
How many miles you drove on old brakes?
13,866 Posts
Re: DIY How To: Rear mk5 brake pad and rotor replacement. (equate)

Quote, originally posted by equate »

My inner pad damage

Excellent write-up. I've been wanting to DIY but I was too afraid of the needless complexity built into these cars. Now I feel like I can accomplish this repair myself. Have a
or 3.

3,888 Posts
Re: (olegg)

Getting those carrier bolts out is a real PITA. I ended up buying a 1/4" drive breaker bar and a set of stubby triple squares from VMX. My 1/2" breaker bar was too long to fit inside the wheel well and around the suspension parts *and* still be able to crank.

14,240 Posts

it is ideal to open the bleeder nipple when you push the caliper back in, that way more worn out brake fluid doesnt go back into the resevoir. since you have to bleed brakes anyways, might as well.

621 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Re: FV-QR (dubsker)

Quote, originally posted by olegg »
Great DIY thanks.
How many miles you drove on old brakes?

I had about 30k on them. I thought this was bizarre to have them go out with that little miles on them, and before the fronts. I found by posting here (and talking to the VW service manager at my dealer) that this is completely normal for these cars. I think its a combination of soft pads and being really rear bias.
Quote, originally posted by jmj »
Getting those carrier bolts out is a real PITA. I ended up buying a 1/4" drive breaker bar and a set of stubby triple squares from VMX. My 1/2" breaker bar was too long to fit inside the wheel well and around the suspension parts *and* still be able to crank.

Yes this was the same problem I had. Theres just not enough room to swing a breaker bar. Like I said, I think if you have the car on a lift you can access the bolts from directly below and having the car up that high would allow you to use a big breaker bar.
Quote, originally posted by Preppy »
Why did your pads have that angled wear?
On visual inspection of my pads, both front and rear, I've noticed that the pads are wearing like this...

I wouldn't worry too much about it. The thickness of the pads were all pretty close. If one side has a lot more meat on it than the other you might have a problem. the difference wasn't significant enough for me to suspect a problem.

Quote, originally posted by dubsker »
it is ideal to open the bleeder nipple when you push the caliper back in, that way more worn out brake fluid doesnt go back into the resevoir. since you have to bleed brakes anyways, might as well.

I mentioned somewhere to check the level in the reservoir before pushing them in and if its too full to take some out. I wouldn't open the bleeder just because it could allow air to get in more so than taking fluid out of the reservoir. Right now though, this car is new enough that the level is fine. I could only potentially see it as being a problem if you have had previous brake work done (or some knucklehead at a jiffy lube added fluid for no reason)
And you don't have to bleed the brakes? I don't know why you would when you just change the pads out.

As for the rest, thanks for the kind words on the right up! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

I should also note that this DIY is in the mk5 DIY sticky.

Modified by equate at 3:32 AM 2-10-2009
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