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Re: (sneakyrazor)

Another satisfied customer
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
My brake light switch was also the -E model (bought 08/22/06). Read instructions for 10 minutes, took 5 minutes for the install.
Notes: only took out the panel above the driver's side footwell (3 screws, then bent the panel to take it off) and forgot NOT TO depress the brake pedal when removing the old switch - but the new one still works!
Thanks again -
 

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Re: DIY - Installing a new brake light switch (VgRt6)

Your photos and directions were excellent! A 15 minute repair by me that cost $11.00 is invaluable! I can sleep easier tonight knowing my daughter's 1999 Jetta is working correctly! Thanks again!
 

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Re: (polanhe)

Have to love the Vortex.
Started having periodic problems with my brake lights staying on a couple of weeks ago, and found a dead battery in the garage this morning. Luckily had another car to get to work.
At least I know this will be an easy fix. The hard part is going to be pushing my car out of my narrow single garage between townhouses to be able to jump start it.
 

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Re: (art vandelet)

I bought an "E" switch from the dealer for $11.17. I installed it according to the instructions and my brake lights still didn't come on. The only thing I could have done was overturn the swich when locking it in.
How can I tell if the switch is broken? Do you only get 1 try?
 

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Re: (art vandelet)

Just bought the new "E" purple switch, and am about to install it. Thanks for such a great write-up, woulda been totally lost without it!! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Is this is in the MkIV FAQ/DIY section? If not, it should be there asap!!!!!
Quick update: Everything went really smooth - about 10 minutes. Now I have lights!!! Yeah!
Also: the stealership took $13.75 from me for the switch. Much better though than taking it in and not having a car while they "diagnose" it.


Modified by EndisForever at 12:08 PM 8-28-2006
 

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Re: DIY - Installing a new brake light switch (VgRt6)

I went and bought a new switch and thought that it would be the new one but it was the older one....I haven't looked at what was in my car but it feels like the newer one....can the two be interchanged by any chance??
Thanks
 

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The switch in my 2005 golf tdi failed this morning with the brake lights stuck on. Its still under warranty but I am an hour away from the dealer and I am running b95 so I decided to take a look at the switch myself. I got under the dash and gave the old switch a twist and the lights went off and started working again. Do they ever get stuck but not broken? I suppose I should just order a spare one. Any tips on where to find one online? Several of the older links didnt seem to work.
Thanks
Dustin
 

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Re: (dustind)

This is one of those DIY FAQs that has lots of great information and tells you how to fix broken stuff, but it fails to explain the real reason the switch fails and doesn't provide any real technical info. If you want to know more let me illustrate the workings of the switch. The following will allow you to get a failing brake light/pedal switch to work at least temporarily.
Preamble
Audi/VW has had numerous problems with electric switches since the early 1980s. Having owned several Audi 100s/5000s, I have become an expert at taking the electric window control switches out of these cars and cleaning the poorly designed contacting surfaces that are at fault. Sadly, the brake light switch (which FYI is the same as the brake pedal switch, just 2 different pins on the same switch) on my 05 Jetta is still based on the same design and therefore suffers the same problems.
The Switch
All newer models have a purple bodied rev. E switch. This switch is actually DIFFICULT to break and in all likelihood can be cleaned / repaired easily. The switch can be readily removed in its unlocked position. You may choose to reset the plunger or you may choose not to, I haven't found that it makes any difference.
1) The plunger part of the switch (which comprises most of the switch) doesn't include any components likely to break. The actual switch part is controlled by a small nub from the plunger. Therefore getting at the innards of the switch is EXTREMELY easy. All you have to do is GENTLY pry the two tabs apart keeping the pinout part of the switch in position (circled in red in the picture below). Then gently push the pinout portion backwards and out.

2) The switch is designed to be CLOSED on pins 2-3 (inner two pins, called the Brake Pedal Switch F47) and OPEN on 1-4 (outer two pins, called the Brake Light Switch F). This is to allow the ecu to be able to check if the switch is functioning, ie have one closed circuit at all times. This is great for the ecu, but not so great for the 1-4 circuit as it tends to arc as the circuit is closed. This leads to corrosion/pitting and eventual failure of the 1-4 part of the switch. Specifically, in the picture below, the contact area is circled in red.

3) To temporarily fix this switch, all you have to do is clean the contact area. The best way I have found to do this is to get a very small piece of sandpaper, lift the switch apart, place the piece of sandpaper in the contact, GENTLY press the switch closed, and sandpaper the contact back and forth a few times. This will make the switch work for a significant amount of time, anywhere from a day to a year depending on your skill and luck, as well as the local environmental conditions (humidity especially will kill these types of switches). In any case it will allow you to get your brakes working immediately on a manual model and it will allow you to shift an automatic model without downtime.
You can check the operation of the switch by using an ohm meter or alternatively a Vag-Com. The Vag-Com is particularly useful for repeated and functional testing with the switch installed.
Good luck!


Modified by DrSmile at 5:44 PM 9-4-2006


Modified by DrSmile at 8:47 PM 9-4-2006
 

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Re: (DrSmile)

Seems like this would be a good temporary fix, if it worked.

Cleaning up that contact is nothing new for those of us that owned air cooled VWs and cleaned points.
I cleaned everything up. Checked with the Ohm meter, everything checked out. Went back, to the car, installed it, followed the first post to a T and still no love.



Modified by asparks at 7:36 PM 9-5-2006
 

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Re: (asparks)

Found out you don't even have to touch the pedal.
Just pull the little "plunger" all the way out. If its not already all the way out, and you just stick it in the cut-out and twist. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: (Martinus)

Quote, originally posted by Martinus »
Found out you don't even have to touch the pedal.
Just pull the little "plunger" all the way out. If its not already all the way out, and you just stick it in the cut-out and twist. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

That seems to make sense. As long as you just push all the way in, make sure its flush, and then twist and lock into place. Makes the job just that much easier!
 

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Re: (asparks)

asparks,
Did you clear the original code? You can use a Vag-com to check the real time binary functions of the switch once installed, on my TDI model it's measuring block 6. There are two binary values that should change from 1 to 0 simultaneously, if only one changes then a CEL is triggered. If the ohm meter checks out for both 1-4 and 2-3 pins with the switch out but the Vag-com doesn't, the next thing I would do is jump the male plug that is supposed to go to the switch with the switch disconnected. You can see if it's registering the jump on both the 1-4 and 2-3 pins on the Vag-com. If it doesn't register then the problem is not the switch. Check the 10 amp fuse next.
 

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Re: (DrSmile)

Eh, frustration turns to realization and embarrassment.
I received two new switches today. One just to be sure if I broke the other.

I think I had it correct but I neglected to get it fully seated in place.
Tonite as I found out, I turned it, I thought it locked but the brake lights were constantly on. This happened last week to me too. Brakes lights were constantly on, no matter what.
I took it out, pulled the plunger out again. Reset the length and twisted it into place, only this time it twisted a bit farther and it worked...
So, I'm guessing that I'm the dummy (as usual) and I really did get it fixed, now I've got three good switches.

Thanks for the advice.
 
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