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Ive seen a lot of people on here asking about this and since I plan on color matching my valences soon and have been doing a lot of reading making sure its done right. I went through jettajake00's DIY in the MKIV section but a lot of people wanted to smooth out the texture, so did I.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1094944 -jettajake00's DIY

So I searched more and found this DIY by IKE20VA4 from Audizine and hope that it will help others.
EDIT 10/16/07: I finished my valences today and posted pics after this DIY.
Quote, originally posted by IKE20VA4 »

Time for the front and back!
DONT FORGET TO WEAR GOGGLES AND A RESPIRATOR or you could die! darwin theory at work...

These pieces will take a little longer because they are textured. You can paint them as they are but your finished product won't blend perfectly with the rest of your bumper. I wanted it to blend as closely as possible. In order to do so I had to get rid of the textured effect. I did it the stupid way and sanded and sanded until I wanted to shoot myself for ever starting this!
So you must all learn from my lesson. Work smarter not harder!
It came to me yesterday when I was refinishing my wheels and had to use some filler primer. So instead of sanding all the little bumps off, which is hard to do even with an electric sander...we will fill them up with filler primer. Then we will sand them down which shall be much easier! Filler primer $5 autozone/shucks/you know
First put on a few coats of plastic adhesion promoter, who is your friend when painting on plastic stuff! Don't put on too much or it will leave little bubbly speckle things...if that happens wipe them off with a clean lint free rag. When you are priming, it is a good chance to practice your even strokes with the can and get the hang of throwing that paint on their evenly!
Then put on a few coats of filler primer until you have built up a good layer. Do this 5-10 mins after the ahesion promotor is on. The filler primer is supposed to be sandable in 30 mins or an hour, I forget. But be smart and don't sand it until it is completely dry!
I would hit it with some 400 grit sandpaper to get it nice and smooth! If you really wanna get silky, bust out some 600 grit. When it's all smooth, go wash all the dust off.
Now you are ready for color coat! Bust out your color of choice (hopefully to match the body color). While wearing respirator and goggles put on nice thin coats. Maybe let them dry 5-10 mins in between. We are just trying to prevent runs here. Runs = ugly paint job. At your discression, put on as many coats as you think you need until you can't see any red/black underneath anymore!

Looking good so far!! Go have a beer while that last coat dries up nicely so you don't put the clear coat on too soon and make the color coat run...That will ruin your day
Ok, color coat should now be dry or almost dry. Give it an hour or 2 just to be sure
Then whip out the clear coat. The first coat (as the can should say) will go on lightly followed by slightly thicker coats on top . Again we want that first clear coat to be dry or almost dry for precautions of the color coat running on us! Paitience is the biggest virtue while painting. 30 mins should be fine for wait time. Then come back and put on a little bit thicker coat of clear. Let it get tacky and then put on another coat of the same thickness. Now we are most likely safe from making the color coat run underneath. The pieces should be looking pretty darn glossy now too! Basically you are home free now. Let them dry for as long as possible up to 24 hours!

Put them back on, step back and tell yourself the usual, "Damn, I'm good!" lol



bada bing love cheap mods!
Biggest mistake I would be careful of: Make sure the color coat is dry to touch or very close! Otherwise when you put the clear on it literally changes the shade of the color coat! Then your color match won't be so great! Goodluck!

This is my first time doing a project this big with paint so here are some tips that I think you guys should know:
- Get at least 18oz. of color matched paint
- Maybe 2 cans of filler primer if you want absolutely no texture
- I wet-sanded with 400 and 800 grit and it came out real smooth
- Make sure your area is clear of loose dust/dirt
- TAKE YOUR TIME!..rushing can cause your day to turn bad
- Dont spray to close or else you will get runs
- DO NOT use cheap clear coat or else it will yellow
- Try to get cans with this spray tip, it simulates a spray gun:

Ok, I removed the valences along with the bumper and just masked off because the re-install will be a lot easier and you wont run the risk of cracking the paint if you didnt get the flex additive. I also pretty much followed this DIY and the back of the spray can.
1. I started with masking, then cleaning the valences thoroughly.
2. Then I added 2 coats of paint adhesive
3. 2 coats of filler primer, 30min later wet-sanded with 400
4. 1 last coat of filler primer, wet-sanded with 800
5. I did at least 4-5 coats of the color coat because I wanted it thick
6. Then i finished with the same amount of coats for the clear coat
7. Leave to dry

Heres some pics I snapped while waiting for the paint to dry..
Primer on the front and rear valence



Close up after wet-sanding and drying

Final Coats (those are scrapes on my front valence, not painting errors)



Close up of last coat of clear on rear valence:

My car during the process



If you have any questions just feel free to ask, heres some quick pics of the results:




After fall, winter, and spring: So far so good beside obvious rock chips from the highway




Modified by VrstewartW at 11:37 PM 10-4-2008
 

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Re: DIY Painting Factory Valences (SilverSLC)

http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Can I get t-red spray paint anywhere?
 

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Re: (VrstewartW)

If you go to a professional paint supplier you can get cans of spray paint made in any color you want, any factory color, custom color etc. You could easily be able to get all the supplies there as well, sand paper, high-build primer, etc. Great DIY, after reading this I might be doing this sometime soon myself.
 

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Re: DIY Painting Factory Valences (VrstewartW)

I've used http://www.paintscratch.com in the past for Imola Yellow (Audi) and Platinum Silver (Subaru) and had excellent results.
Following their instructions, the Imola Yellow was a good match, even for the picky folks like me, it looked good. Adding clear to the Imola is what really brought the color to near exact match. Being yellow I was concerned but it worked out.
 

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Great post! There are a couple of guys who did it themselves to their cars here on the MKV forums, and a couple done professionally. This is the best write up by far... Makes me want to try it out
 
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