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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So for anyone that wanted to see how I've hard-wired the V1 / Valentine 1... the assumptions for this install are that you want to install your radar detector near the rear-view mirror, you have a sunroof, and you want your radar detector to switch on/off with the ignition.
First, you'll need to run a wire up to the overhead console area that provides +12VDC power, switched with the ignition. A stock MkV does not have this pre-existing [scroll to the bottom of this DIY for some additional info on the sunroof harness].
I ran a new wire from the fusebox (figure 1) up to the overhead panel. I used a yellow 16AWG wire--more than sufficient for the V1, but I also plan to add a homelink/auto-dimming mirror down the road, so I wanted to have a large enough wire to handle the accessories.
FIGURE 1

The wire runs up the a-pillar, bundled with an existing wire bundle so as to eliminate interference with the airbag. Wire comes out through the overhead panel. In Figure 2, you are looking at the overhead panel with the sunroof/lighting module removed, as well as a trim panel beneath it. There are removal instruction on another part of this forum, but I will warn you: BE CAREFUL with the two T-20 Torx screws that are closest to the windshield. They screw into a floating nutplate that appears easy to dislodge; you'll have a hell of a time fishing it out.
FIGURE 2

Next I located the Valentine1 power module in an empty cavity; you can barely see it in Figure 3 as callout 2. Callout 1 is the power lead from the fusebox, crimped to the V1's power (red) lead. I used a zip-tie to secure my wire to the other bundle for the sunroof.
FIGURE 3 (Front is car is towards bottom of picture)

The V1 uses a regular 4-conductor phone wire with RJ11 jacks on the ends. Rather that try to squeeze the RJ11 phone wire through the headliner, I just chopped off one end, fed the wire through, then attached a new RJ11 connector. Doing it this way also lets you trim this wire to length as shown in Figure 4. The other end of this wire connects into the V1 power module (not pictured).
FIGURE 4

Someone else pointed out that there aren't any good places to attach the return (ground) wire. I found this to be true as well. Therefore, I tapped into the return for the sunroof motor - it's a brown wire, either 14 or 16 AWG (so it's pretty thick). I used a T-tap connector, which are available at car parts stores. You can see it as callout 1 in Figure 5. If you don't have the sunroof option, you may have to look at adding a ground lug that screws into the chassis - or run a seperate ground wire with your +12V power wire.
FIGURE 5

So now the overhead part is done, so I just closed that all up. Only this left is to finish the fusebox. Rather than rip apart the dash, I just used one of the EZ accessory fuse box taps, also available at an auto parts store. Figures 6 and 7 show how it works, just plugs into any fuse slot. # A41 is an ignition-switched position, and is unused. For a 16AWG wire, you shouldn't use more than a 5A fuse.
FIGURE 6

FIGURE 7


And now for the acid test:
FIGURE 8

ENJOY!! Hope this is useful information!
* More info on the sunroof wiring harness:
If you have a sunroof, there is a constant 12V (red/yellow stripe) wire and a return (brown) wire to the sunroof motor controller. I believe one of the other wires in the bundle is a signal that tells it whether or not the ignition is on (probably the yellow wire if VW de Mexico follows normal conventions)--however it is too small to carry current (24 or 22 AWG), so it would be inappropriate to use this to power your radar detector.
 

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Re: DIY Radar Detector Hard-Wire Install (newlu)

Quote, originally posted by newlu »
great write ups
where can i find one?
and how much does it run?
TIA

V1's run about 400 retail. You can order from the manufacturer directly or try to find one on Ebay. Now I picked up my x850 off ebay for 200 shipped which was a great buy and is just as good as the V1.
Great DIY http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: DIY Radar Detector Hard-Wire Install (randomtask)

Beat me to it! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

I have just been waiting on getting my GTI delievered to do this. Thank God you mount your V1 high and level, I see so many people with low/offcenter/crooked detectors.
Nice writeup
 

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Re: (heffergm)

Quote, originally posted by heffergm »
There's a lot of evidence that you should actually mount your detector low:
http://www.radarbusters.com/su...2.asp

True if you are using an X50...
http://www.laserveil.com/laser...ector/
V1 is rediculously good at detecting laser, miles ahead of belscort, and thus does not need to get mounted low (especially in our cars).
The higher line of sight will allow them to detect radar from further away.... ergo V1s should be mounted high...
http://www.valentine1.com/laserhowto/
http://www.valentine1.com/lab/Previously1.asp
 

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Re: (papaTDI)

Yes, it works if you have a darker colored car, no front plate or a lasershield, and it definitely helps when you are using a laser jammer, but it only helps to slow the inevitable and you have to react quickly if you dont have a jammer.
It is expensive though, and doesn't look all that good once applied.
 

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Re: (NaterGator86)

I plan to hardwire an Escort 8500 into my girlfriends car. Can anyone point me in the right direction to find a switched source power wire? I will route the wiring along the headlinger, down the a-pillar and under the steering wheel.
Thanks!
 

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Re: DIY Radar Detector Hard-Wire Install (TDITimber)

you pry it thoughtout the liner, once you take the top console off, you will be able to run the wire, though, by slight pulls
 

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Re: DIY Radar Detector Hard-Wire Install (TDITimber)

Quote, originally posted by TDITimber »
How do you get it up the a pillar?

I just kinda pulled mine back a little and it went in easily. My question is that if the side airbag gos off with the wire be in the way?
 

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I did not pull a wire to the overhead console, I used the sunroof 20amp non-switched power for power (I beleive the V1 takes .5Amp on start and did not want to risk overloading a low amp fuse) and then l used a relay conected to the swithced power for the sunroof controls to switch the V1 on and off. If anyone would like pics I could go open it up when I have a spare minute and take some picks, so let me know.
btw, all the leads that I taped into were right by the harness that plugs into the sunroof motor, therefore you must remove the motor and unplug the harness to be able to access the wires.
 

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Re: (empGLI)

Can you be a little more specific? Wire color you taped into for power...How you wired relay to shut V1 on & off...How you grounded V1. I really don't want to bring a wire up thru a pillar...Would love to just wire in thru overhead console like you did.
 

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Re: (TDITimber)

On sunroof motor wire harness, beige is [-] red is [+] and yellow is switched [+]. red is a 25amp fuse, could not figure out how many amp fuse yellow is therefore only using it to switch a relay which powers the V1 from the red and beige.
this is how I wired with the relay and V1
beige [-] just goes to [-] of relay and of V1,
yellow [+] goes to relay [+] only,
red [+] goes to [C] of relay,
red from V1 goes to [N/O] of realy.
and your done, turn on the car, and the V1 powers up turn off the car and open the door and the V1 turns off.
 

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Re: DIY Radar Detector Hard-Wire Install (randomtask)

* More info on the sunroof wiring harness:
If you have a sunroof, there is a constant 12V (red/yellow stripe) wire and a return (brown) wire to the sunroof motor controller. I believe one of the other wires in the bundle is a signal that tells it whether or not the ignition is on (probably the yellow wire if VW de Mexico follows normal conventions)--however it is too small to carry current (24 or 22 AWG), so it would be inappropriate to use this to power your radar detector.

so what happens if i do connect my V1 to the sunroof? will it turn on but not work at the full potential?
 
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