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This is what happens when I am on break from school bored, and taking some time to work on my wheels. I'll update this DIY as I make progress. Sources for some information can be found at the bottom of the DIY
First what is the difference between RS's and RM's you ask?
The BBS RM is a cast 2-piece wheel. The two pieces consist of the outer "lip" and "rim (barrel and center)." They are 15" in diameter and have 30 bolts that thread into the barrel. The center cap is plastic and snaps in. These wheels were available on the '91-92 16v GTIs.
The BBS RS is a forged 3-piece wheel that consists of an outer "lip" , "center" and "barrel". The center cap is aluminum and threaded, attaches by threading into the center section of the wheel. These also weigh in at only 15 pounds each. The bolts on a BBS RS are slightly longer and go through the lip, center, and barrel then are fastened with a nut. The amount of bolts per wheel is dependent on the diameter of the wheel, since we will be working with a 16" diameter wheel we will have 34 bolts and nuts per wheel.
Now on to rebuilding
1.Locate and purchase your wheels,Thanks Katya for giving me a reliable affordable website to place my order with.

2.Oh **** check it out they're here already. These are 16x7 ET 33 BBS RS.

3.To begin separating the wheels, you will need the following.
-3/8 drive socket wrench
-8mm 12 pt. socket.
-small extension
-10mm wrench
-rubber mallet

Begin removing the 34 bolts per wheel, the front face of the wheel has the 8mm bolts on them, and on the inside of the barrel you will locate the 10mm 12pt nuts to secure your wrench and prevent rotating.

Some of the sealant gets onto the shaft of the bolts, and makes for a hard separation, I would recommend breaking the sealant free by rotating the 8mm bolts before trying to remove them.

3.Now on to splitting the wheels, now i have looked at numerous BBS rebuild threads, and they all told me the same thing, scrape off the visible sealant with a putty knife and then tap the wheel to separate the pieces... they never separate.
The above mentioned method sucks, here is what I did.
-Preheat your oven to 350 degrees
-Remove center cap
-Throw the entire wheel in and set your timer to 5 minutes.

Now PLEASE DON'T BE AN IDIOT. Use oven mits the wheel is warm.
4.Marking the wheel to show where they were originally set wouldn't be a bad idea right now.
5.Now to remove the outer lip you do this by tapping the wheel at the bottom most point of the lip as seen in the picture below. It should pop off with a few light taps.

5.Next to remove the center tap the back of the center that would mount flush to the hub, I would tap it next to the mounting surface as to not damage the flat surface as seen in the below picture.

Check it out you have them all apart!

6.Now remove all the left over sealant

7.Now that you have all of your wheels disassembled and clean you have to decide what it is exactly that you want to do.
In my case i planned on cleaning up 2 of the original (1") lips and purchasing 2 wider (2") lips.
8.So my next step was going to be re-polishing 2 of my (1") lips.
You will need:
-aircraft stripper
-sand paper
-wd-40
-never dull
-mothers metal polish

9.Spray down the lips to be polished with some aircraft stripper.

This may take a few coats to remove all the clear, BBS did a great job protecting their wheels.
10.Now on to the sanding!
In my case I started with 400 grit since my lips were in pretty good shape to begin with and had no curbage. If your wheels have been crubbed you will need to have them repaired.
You can follow the polishing guide found here: (Peteys Polishing (Ghetto 8v))
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=547333"]http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=547333
Here is a before picture of the lip

and a finished picture

9.Follow the same procedure when polishing the hex caps here is how to remove the hex from the center cap, (The BBS logo cap just snaps in place. so just unclip it and push to remove.)
-Remove the snap ring on the back of the center cap as seen in the below picture.

Then the center caps will separate.

Heres a shot after the polishing on the hex caps.

10.Oh look what just came in from tunershop! My lips!

Thanks for the free euro plate guys.

Test fit of the new lips.

11.Either clean or send out your centers for paint or powdercoat, I chose Powder Pro in new bedford, MA and brought a windsor gas cap with me, so he could match the color.
(pics on return)

12.Bolts came In! Test fit!

13.Now while your waiting on your centers to come back from powder or paint, You can use this time to clean the barrels.
I used
-Red Brake Cleaner
-Scuff Pad
-Elbow Grease
Here is a shot of one all clean.

14.Now on to resealing the wheels
14 a. Clean the mating surfaces with laquer thinner and let dry.
14 b. Bolt the two shells together "DRY" and torque to spec. using a small drop of blue loctite per bolt
I prefer the blue loctite gel because it doesn't drip all over your pretty wheels (one tube of the gel does the trick for all 4 wheels)

Also, to protect the head of your new shiny bolts, I recommend putting some saran wrap around the head of the bolts before putting the socket on it.

here are the torque specs
BBS RM bolt torque is 12-15 lb/ft
BBS RS bolt torque is 22-25 lb/ft

14 c. Lay thin bead of silicone in the crack between the mating surfaces and smooth. Let it dry overnight.
14 d. Re-apply a bead over the first and smooth out to about a 1.0" bead width and smooth.


If you follow this procedure your wheels will never leak. The reason you don't want silicone between the halves is because all silicone shrinks as it cures. As is shrinks the pressure between the shells changes and your torque changes. BBS use a different system. I wouldn't worry about how the silicone looks. Once you put a tire on you cant see it anyway. The last thing you want is to be driving down the road and get a flat because you didn't use enough sealant. Kodiak suggests to all of their customers that they recheck the torque after you run the wheels for the first time. Just make a few turns each way and quickly recheck (just check don't tighten more).
One recommended product for sealing wheel halves is called Toyota Seal 102 also known as FIPG or as it sounds "Fipige." It is only available at the dealer, 3 oz. cost near 15 dollars (10.00 if louie is nice to you), no silicone in it, I believe, but it will seal almost unsealable things.
Thanks Louie!

Generally, and good quality RTV silicone sealant will work perfectly, though. Dow Corning 832 Multi Surface Adhesive Sealant was also recommended. Kinesis Motorsports also recommends a sealant called, Shin-Etsu Silicone (1 Component RTV). This is available from Kinesis Motorsports directly.
Also DOOMED had this recomendation:
Quote, originally posted by -DOOMED- »
An alternatve to that sealant that works just as well and is available for about 13.00 for the tube is permatex black RTV in the caulk tube . I used it when i reassembled my rs's on my gti.

New BBS Caps

Yay! all done





Sources:
-BBS thread vwvortex http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1022742
-Rebuild thread found here http://www.the-polisher.com/id6.html
Modified by Charmander at 6:53 PM 1-28-2009


Modified by Charmander at 6:23 AM 8-12-2009
 

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rbwheels is a great site. cheap rs's in there.
 

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Re: (Charmander)

what was your method on polishing the lips


Modified by V-GTI-R at 2:53 PM 12-25-2008
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Re: (V-GTI-R)

ill take some pictures of them on the car this wednesday, when they are back from powdercoat and assembled.

this is the car, with a different set of rs's
Quote, originally posted by V-GTI-R »
what was your method on polishing the lips

Modified by V-GTI-R at 2:53 PM 12-25-2008

I used Ghetto 8V's DIY which is linked above. Since my lips were in pretty good shape to begin with i started with 400 grit.
, our only difference in method is that i believe he uses polishing rouge as a finishing step, i prefer never dull.


Modified by Charmander at 12:25 PM 12-25-2008
 

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Re: (Charmander)

Quote, originally posted by Charmander »

I used Ghetto 8V's DIY which is linked above. Since my lips were in pretty good shape to begin with i started with 400 grit.
, our only difference in method is that i believe he uses polishing rouge as a finishing step, i prefer never dull.
Modified by Charmander at 12:25 PM 12-25-2008

Not what i was asking i know how to polish, ive done my manifold what i meant was how did you sand the lip? did you sand up and down one side then the other?
 

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whats the final et's on the wheels? I'd like to build a similar set but I'm not sure how the rear wheel will fit with ET ~7.6. Any idea?
 

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Re: (Charmander)

if your willing, what was the rough cost of powdercoating the centers? did your powedercoater do any sanding/stripping or repairs necessary? http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
great writeup, definitely watching
 
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